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Sighisoara to Sibiu

Well my darlings I’ve just arrived in Sibiu after another really big day. I got to my hotel and it’s lovely particularly after last nights completely revolting shithole. Then I went to connect to wifi to send last nights email and it wouldn’t connect again. That was it for me, it’s these tiny little things that is sometimes all it takes and I melted down. I sent a distress signal to Hammy of course. Then I sat, pulled myself together and thought of the old turn it off trick. Lo and behold it worked!!! And I’m back on deck. Crisis over, now it need a glass of wine most urgently and that’s what I’m doing as I write this.

I hated the room last night so much that it quite unreasonably unsettled me. So I was out of there early…they also provided a shit breakfast…I kept myself nice because I needed them to keep my case for the day, but I was out the door to explore nice and early.

Well, there were things to do places to go in this magical little town full of delights. First I had to climb to the top of the beautiful clock tower to get the perspective of this town as a Citadel. So you stay inside the citadel surrounded by walls, towers and bastions. Up I went but was somewhat thwarted by mist and fog, very atmospheric but not good for perspective or photos. Nonetheless it was terrific, great views and a real sense of the town. The next thing was the church on the hill. A cover stairway leads up to it…172 steps. Well why put it off, ot had to be done!!

That was really not a problem…not to say I bounced of but it wasn’t too hard. The gripe I have, and I’ve already said this, is that they don’t let you take photos inside their churches. I get very frustrated but if you try and cheat there are always members of the Romanian mafia disguised in all sorts of pious ways just waiting to nab you!!

I spent the rest of the day walking around the citadel walls, up and down the hilly, cobblestone streets and into and out of ancient churches. Really al quite enchanting. I allowed myself lunch in the restaurant Casa Vlad where he was apparently born(or was that died??).

Then off to the train for the 3 hour ride to Sibius…and here I am. I love watching all the villages roll by in amongst the hills and forests, it is lovely.

As I said before I’m getting grubbier and grubbier so something’s got to give but I guess not until I get to Italy. First impressions of Sibiu….just gorgeous!! Romania has grabbed me by the short and curly….it is fabulous!!

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Sighisoara

I’m having big trouble with iPad connecting to wifi. I seem to be able to connect up the phone but the iPad which is really going to disconnect me from the world and it’s so strange how awful that feels. Anyway the missive will go ahead and hopefully will stay in draft form if I can’t send it. Just arrived in Sighisoara and it is obviously a beautiful town although night has rapidly descended. I have a train to Sibiu at 3 tomorrow so will have to do all the exploring I can tomorrow.

First a whinge. The Romanians are the biggest smokers I’ve ever encountered and they smoke EVERYWHERE !! Restaurants are full of smokers as I’ve said but I arrived at my hotel here which is rustic to say the least and as usual I struggle up the stairs to my room and it STINKS. I’m not a particularly fussy person and I can put up with a bit but this was really overwhelming. So I asked if they had another room…no go! So I’ve opened every window I can and have left the room to eat. That’s my only whinge.

Well, what a busy, busy day! And a terrific day. At 8 this morning I set out with Valli, the guy from the hotel who is lovely and who takes tourists around. So I and a lovely Canadian couple set off. Gorgeous, gorgeous warm day as was yesterday which is a good thing as I’ve developed holes in my very hard working and only pair of shoes so rain is a real bummer!!

First stop Bran for an injection of Dracula and his castle that wasn’t really his but was interesting and atmospheric with a bit of most appropriate mist about. But god it was another climb up to it and then stairs and more stairs!! But still it was great. Finally got to see this castle that epitomises Romania. Now I’ve got to see the new Dracula movie.

Then we went off to Rasnov to explore the massive fortress on the hill. Again it was so interesting and so full of the Hungarian Saxon history of this part of the world. I guess for this reason it is full of German tourists too.

The Canadians then had to catch their train so we dropped them off but I paid my Valli for the extended tour which was actually the best part of the whole day. Off we went to a couple of fortified churches which were fabulous. They are churches and in fact whole villages that were walled to defend themselves against the ottomans and others. Amazing in many respects…ancient frescoes, defence passages all around, hidden tunnels. I was just entranced, and they were so pretty too. So I loved it…gorgeous warm day and so much to appreciate.

Then back to the train station for the train to here. Through farmland with peasants toiling in the fields with horses and hand implements for slashing etc.

As I said where I’m staying here is somewhat depressing but it’s only for one night so I’ll cope.

I’m starting to think settling down in Italy is well timed with holes in the shoes, an orange bag that is a kind of grey, brown, grubby colour and a case full of clothes that have been worn to death including my jeans that have been washed once in six weeks….well what do you do???
Some maintenance won’t go astray though!!

That’s it for another day.