Izmir

Tonight’s missive is from the bar of the hotel overlooking the water of Izmir bay.

Very pleasant but I feel a bit out of place in my thongs and grubby dress…it’s a posh hotel. As I said I’ve been pretty good budget wise and living within my means but the last 3 places I booked something got into me and caution has been thrown to the wind a bit…then you end up feeling like an inferior scruff. Not that anyone suggests that of course.

Well, where did I end up last night. Was just about to go out to dinner. Next thing I know one of the managers of the hotel insists that I go hone to her house for dinner. Honestly they are so sweet. She lived in a small, totally ancient house and under the house are thousands of years of human life. It was amazing. Her husband had cooked up a storm and had even gone out and bought a bottle of red wine!! So that was a treat.

It really is so true that there are treats in unexpected places when you travel alone because things like that don’t happen if you are more than one.

So left my lovely little hotel this morning. Walked down to the train station and for the first time tried out the train system. That was a slight shock. No reserved seats here and a bun fight as everyone pushed ahead to grab a seat. Not me!! Oh shit I was standing and this was an hour and a half ride. But this is Turkey and it wasn’t too long before a lovely man gave me his seat. That was lovely!!

Arrived in Izmir. Not too far to my hotel thought I and off I trotted. My little case is a treasure and keeps rolling along over cobbles, broken roads etc. but my bloody bag over my shoulder is quite another story. Everything but the kitchen fucking sink is in it. Now I’m just loving Goldfinch to pieces but god will I be glad to finish it. It weighs a goddam ton and combined with the LPG, camera, wallet of preciousness, purse, camera etc. all miraculously stuffed in my bag it nearly kills me. A lovely Australian tourist I ran into said when you think of the cost of some things, we made very bad decisions for very little money…brought to mind Egypt, heh Ham!! Anyway I got the the hotel and the concierge guy found it very hard to believe I had a booking. He did laugh when I said I knew I didn’t look as if I did!

Well wouldn’t you know it, my first mission was to get a bus ticket to Istanbul for Monday. So I enquired where the booking offices were….back up near the Train Station. So I took a deep breath and back I went. Much easier with Goldfinch happily resting in the hotel!!

Then I spent a lovely afternoon strolling around the Bazaar. Eating!!

Now my ‘little problems’ have settled, I’ve got a terrible desire to eat!! So first a pide type yummy thing with everyone stopping to chat to me in whatever language they could muster. Then a most delicious fresh, homemade ice cream. Whenever I eat ice cream I have Chris in my ear. She would have been ashamed of the gelati I was eating in Anatalya. All brightly coloured and fluffed up….not the thing at all!!

Different kettle of fish today…what Chris would be pleased about is what I learnt in the process of getting my diploma!

The thing about Izmir is that it seems to be such a mix. People who would be absolutely at home in Brunswick or Fitzroy Streets combined with the fully traditional. It has a reputation for being ver liberal and very ‘cool’.

So after the bazaar and my pide + ice cream I made my way down to the pier and a just too! too cool bar. I had a couple of glasses of wine at Fitzroy Street prices and a tapas dish (they even asked if I would like my red chilled or room temperature..wow)..more money than I’ve spent in the last week in that pleasant little sojourn. You know how I said there were advantages of travelling alone…well there are also times when I would desperately love to have you (or a friend) with me and times like that are those times!!

Back to my swish hotel and being vaguely out of place. Came down to the bar to have a glass of wine ( straight out of the fridge and very oxidised) to write my daily missive that keeps me feeling in touch with you all.

This is a boomer and will bore the pants off everyone.

And I forgot to say that one of the disadvantages of wearing thongs about is getting cigarette butts caught between your toes, you can imagine what that does to me as I desperately try to remove them!!

Ephesus

So I’ve finally seen Ephesus…it’s really been the big one in terms of ‘roooons’. So set off this morning and basically took my time, mainly the mission was to dodge around the tour groups, waiting for them to pass and then darting in before the next lot took over. How glad I am not to be in a tour group though…I feel good just to wait patiently, let them go by. So beside the number of tour groups, I just loved it. Hammy said it was the one place where you could really imagine the life all around you and it’s so true. Just wonderful really. I got a taxi there up to the top gate, walked down to the bottom gate then got a local bus, dolmas, back to town. Wondered around got a delicious Pide for late lunch then back to my hotel, into the bathers and a swim or two to cool off. Now glass of wine in hand I’m writing this email before heading into town for dinner. Last night the guy from here took me to a restaurant which was totally delicious so no point in mucking around, I’ll go back there tonight.

The guys here are telling me I shouldn’t be going off to Izmir tomorrow, they say it’s not a nice city….still I’m locked in now and shall see for myself I guess.they are also advising me to get the train not the bus because the train station is central and the bus station is way out…so why not?? Haven’t experienced the train yet so might as well give it a go.

Time in Turkey is now down to one week…I’ve left myself a bit short in Bulgaria and Romania but actually think Turkey deserves far more time, with a car I reckon….so much to see in this magnificent country.

And now Selcuk

Another one of those hot and wearying bus days although only a short bus trip, after such a big day yesterday and more exploring when I got to Selcuk this afternoon I’m tired to say the least. But I’ve landed on the tired old feet with this hotel. I think it’s my favourite to date. In amongst ancient houses (the guy was describing sifting through artefacts when they were building….older than Ephesus), step out of my door and there is the pool. And best of all…my mark of a great hotel, they’ve sold me a very nice bottle of red, best yet. By far. Set me up with my bottle in a gorgeous sitting area, told me to ask for another whenever I wanted, bottle that is!! Contrast this the place in Pamukkale where they sold wine for 3x what you could buy it for two doors down in the little supermarket, then had a big sign saying you weren’t allowed to bring food or wine onto the premises. Well obviously a deviant such as me got around that one but there was not sitting around the pool with your glass of wine!!

So back to the travels. Usually when I go on my bus trips from town to town I’m absolutely the only tourist. Today in Pamukkale the bus filled up totally with tourists. It stopped in Denizli and picked up three Turkish people. This is tourist Central this part of the world. Hotel names like Boomerang, Wallaby, Austn and New Zealand Hotel etc. I think this speaks mainly to the town’s proximity to Gallipoli. You will be relieved to know my hotel is the Ayasoluk.

I’m Still obsessed with the packs of Russians but have heard quite a few Aussie accents around me as well.

As I only have 2 nights here I set off straight away exploring the little town and the ‘roooons’ all around me such as the church of St John….have now seen where he’s buried…this entailed another ‘up to the castle’ walk in the blazing sun…I’m becoming a bit of an expert at this!!! Followed by another ancient mosque…I actually love the old mosques. Then into town but not for too long, needed to rest my weary bones. Now the misens are calling, which always gives me a sense of comfort.

Later I’ll wander off into town to eat something and tomorrow it’s Ephesus….I’m looking forward to that but also looking forward to the next stop which is 3 nights in Izmir…this will dramatically dilute the tourists and get me back to normal. I like a bit but not to be overwhelmed!!

More tomorrow.