Day 2 in Izmir

Another missive from me. A nice and very pleasant day in Izmir today. I set off this morning to see the ‘other side’ of my virtual division of Izmir into 2. This side sort of suits me better, it contains the bazaar and a smattering of history.

After a coffee at a nearby patisserie ( and I won’t mention the little treat that went with the coffee), I set off a lovely ‘square’ with a lovely little mosque and a magnificent clock tower. It had a lovely feel, full of characters including gypsies selling feed for the masses of pigeons. So sat there for a while and watched the world go by.

Then I wandered off through the bazaar, to see the Agora. I was a bit unenthusiastic about this because I didn’t think it was that exciting…..wrong!!! It was really fantastic. You could just feel the bazaar of Roman times, it was amazing and beautiful ruins. I wandered around there for ages.

By then it was time to forage for food so back down to the bazaar. It is such a nice, friendly bazaar, without any hassle really. I struck gold here. When I was walking up I went through the fish area which looked fabulous. On the way back they were cooking!! So, for lunch beautiful little sardine kebabs. Literally sardines cooked freshly on skewers. You will remember how much I love a good sardine so I was very contented. They took delight in introducing me to a local drink Salgam something. Tasted like vinegar but I persisted to their delight!! I was joined at my table by some lovely Turkish women so it became quite a nice social little lunch break.

Couldn’t resist another visit to a Mosque, they are lovely!!

Then took my book out to the foreshore and just read for a while, that was nice and relaxing.
Off to Istanbul tomorrow, I’m really looking forward to getting back there, it is such a great city. Will arrange my transport to Sofia or Plovdiv as soon as I get there. Can’t believe that the Turkey sojourn is nearly over….what a truly wonderful country.

Izmir – Day 2

You’ll probably be relieved to know this will be a brief one tonight.

I really like Izmir but it is mainly new and in many ways reminds me of Melbourne. Walking along the waterfront on a Saturday is a bit like St Kilda. Promenade packed with people and cyclists. Cafés all along it. So today I just walked. I walked in the trendy shopping and cafe area mixed in with busy chaotic areas. Tree lined streets, some parts cooler than cool, other parts busy and very Turkish. Even had a cappuccino today!!

Nice lunch…sea bass cooked with thistle…delicious. Back to the hotel for a shortish break then out again tonight to forage for food once again.

Tomorrow I’ll do the other side of town. I’m looking forward to getting back to Istanbul. Monday is a 9 hr bus trip, that won’t be too much fun.

More word tomorrow.

Izmir

Tonight’s missive is from the bar of the hotel overlooking the water of Izmir bay.

Very pleasant but I feel a bit out of place in my thongs and grubby dress…it’s a posh hotel. As I said I’ve been pretty good budget wise and living within my means but the last 3 places I booked something got into me and caution has been thrown to the wind a bit…then you end up feeling like an inferior scruff. Not that anyone suggests that of course.

Well, where did I end up last night. Was just about to go out to dinner. Next thing I know one of the managers of the hotel insists that I go hone to her house for dinner. Honestly they are so sweet. She lived in a small, totally ancient house and under the house are thousands of years of human life. It was amazing. Her husband had cooked up a storm and had even gone out and bought a bottle of red wine!! So that was a treat.

It really is so true that there are treats in unexpected places when you travel alone because things like that don’t happen if you are more than one.

So left my lovely little hotel this morning. Walked down to the train station and for the first time tried out the train system. That was a slight shock. No reserved seats here and a bun fight as everyone pushed ahead to grab a seat. Not me!! Oh shit I was standing and this was an hour and a half ride. But this is Turkey and it wasn’t too long before a lovely man gave me his seat. That was lovely!!

Arrived in Izmir. Not too far to my hotel thought I and off I trotted. My little case is a treasure and keeps rolling along over cobbles, broken roads etc. but my bloody bag over my shoulder is quite another story. Everything but the kitchen fucking sink is in it. Now I’m just loving Goldfinch to pieces but god will I be glad to finish it. It weighs a goddam ton and combined with the LPG, camera, wallet of preciousness, purse, camera etc. all miraculously stuffed in my bag it nearly kills me. A lovely Australian tourist I ran into said when you think of the cost of some things, we made very bad decisions for very little money…brought to mind Egypt, heh Ham!! Anyway I got the the hotel and the concierge guy found it very hard to believe I had a booking. He did laugh when I said I knew I didn’t look as if I did!

Well wouldn’t you know it, my first mission was to get a bus ticket to Istanbul for Monday. So I enquired where the booking offices were….back up near the Train Station. So I took a deep breath and back I went. Much easier with Goldfinch happily resting in the hotel!!

Then I spent a lovely afternoon strolling around the Bazaar. Eating!!

Now my ‘little problems’ have settled, I’ve got a terrible desire to eat!! So first a pide type yummy thing with everyone stopping to chat to me in whatever language they could muster. Then a most delicious fresh, homemade ice cream. Whenever I eat ice cream I have Chris in my ear. She would have been ashamed of the gelati I was eating in Anatalya. All brightly coloured and fluffed up….not the thing at all!!

Different kettle of fish today…what Chris would be pleased about is what I learnt in the process of getting my diploma!

The thing about Izmir is that it seems to be such a mix. People who would be absolutely at home in Brunswick or Fitzroy Streets combined with the fully traditional. It has a reputation for being ver liberal and very ‘cool’.

So after the bazaar and my pide + ice cream I made my way down to the pier and a just too! too cool bar. I had a couple of glasses of wine at Fitzroy Street prices and a tapas dish (they even asked if I would like my red chilled or room temperature..wow)..more money than I’ve spent in the last week in that pleasant little sojourn. You know how I said there were advantages of travelling alone…well there are also times when I would desperately love to have you (or a friend) with me and times like that are those times!!

Back to my swish hotel and being vaguely out of place. Came down to the bar to have a glass of wine ( straight out of the fridge and very oxidised) to write my daily missive that keeps me feeling in touch with you all.

This is a boomer and will bore the pants off everyone.

And I forgot to say that one of the disadvantages of wearing thongs about is getting cigarette butts caught between your toes, you can imagine what that does to me as I desperately try to remove them!!