From London to Prague

firstly to let you all know that I am safely ensconced in the truly amazing city of Prague.

Got myself organised this morning. Out for one last London cappuccino. Got the big bag down the stairs by sliding the mother fucker on its side. All good so far. Car arrived, a bit late but no worries.

But it was a most hysterical ride!! Firstly the car was dubious enough to have me hoping it would make it, secondly he didn’t stop talking all the way there about how god had made England so wonderful. He asked me what time my flight was then revealed when we were nearly there that he asked that question because if I had plenty of time he took his time, relaxed and made sure we got to know each other!!! He was really sweet and it was actually funny. I tipped him!!

Then there was the Easyjet flight. That is officially a tough gig. I have a handbag that weighs 10 ton with all my electronic stuff in it. I have a specific technique where I balance handbag one side and carry on case on other side. They really stuffed me because they wouldn’t let me take my handbag AND my carry on so I had to put the handbag in my carry on case then I had to lug it up and down stairs and on to the plane. nearly killed me. One more flight left until I get on the big flight to home!!!

On the Czech side I was very smoothly picked up at the airport by a lovely man in a limo affair and brought straight to my hotel. Great hotel right under the Charles Bridge. Downstairs is a fabulous restaurant, very traditionally Czech and very popular. I only got a berth because some depressed girl drowning her sorrows with steins agreed to share with me. The only wine they sell by the glass is white so I had to buy a bottle of red which I was able to bring up to my room!!! Not a bad system really!

After a nice meal (carp) I walked across the Charles Bridge and was able to truly gasp at this amazingly beautiful city. i think I made a good choice. Now I must get some sleep. A very big day and tomorrow I get my bearings.

Birthday weekend and sadly last day in London

Bags packed, everything in but god knows if I’ll pass the weight test…always my anxiety. So sad do I feel when I have to say goodbye to family and launch forth once again. It is always the way and I know it won’t take long to get on with it but it always happens and I’ll miss Ham and Ariane hugely until I see them again. A chat with Rosa this morning helped put me back on track. I then pottered about and then went out for my morning coffee. My other sadness at the moment is that I have an awful feeling that this could be my last time in London with H&A leaving this year. I love the city and hate the thought of not seeing her again! But off to Prague I will head and I’m sure that very soon I’ll be back in exploring mode.

Now for the birthday weekend. Last blog ended with the amazing meal on Friday night that was definitely a highlight. Saturday morning after a massive English Breakfast we set off to explore the coastal towns. First to Margate where we went to the Turner Contemporary Art Gallery which had a very interesting exhibition that had been the British Exhibition at the 2013 Art Biennale in Venice. It was very interesting. we then drove around the town of Margate which is very pretty but not conducive to too much walking with the wind howling ferociously. They are in the very early stages of restoring the old fun park Dreamland. It will be amazing if they achieve their goal of bringing it all back to life circa 1960 but it seems to be a massive task.

Then on to Ramsgate…again we mainly drove around as time was short and we wanted to go to Dover Castle which we thought closed at 4pm. We found a nice cosy pub for lunch in Ramsgate and had Beef and Stilton Pie (could you be more English??) and Fish and Chips!! That was nice…Hammy particularly loves to try all the different beers he can. Then off we went to Dover Castle only to be exceedingly disappointed to find it closed. It looked good from the outside!!! We walked along the cliff top to get a good look at the White Cliffs…that was nice, then back to the hotel for down time before dinner at the pub. I went and sat in the bar for a while soaking it all up and was joined by H&A before dinner. Dinner was nice and it was good to just be able to trundle up to our rooms after the meal. The pub was nice but guess who got the disabled room…with a but disabled sign over the door and a ‘wet’ area for showering i.e. bristling with rails, a shower chair, and a massive ‘wet’ area….all of this when you are feeling sensitive on your birthday anyway. I wasn’t amused but it gave Hammy a laugh!!

Sunday…another massive breakfast and a late start. This time we headed off to enjoy some English country villages and take in Leeds Castle where there was also a Falconry display. We had lunch booked for 2pm but put the booking back to 2.30 in an attempt to fit everything in. We found a very pretty little village called Lenham that had a lovely little sunday market in the main square. It was very enjoyable pottering around there and buying food for Sunday night’s tea. Then we set off for Leed’s Castle but already the time looked very much as if it was running out. When we got to the castle there was a big debate whether to pay to go in because it was very expensive. But we did in the end but it was quite a walk from the entrance to the castle itself and another walk to where the Falconry display was so we had to ditch lunch at that point. Anyway, the castle was really brilliant and we loved walking around it. The Falconry display was a bit weak but interesting for me.

So then we headed home. I had the inspiration to buy some takeaway salad from Ottolenghi for tea with our Pheasant and white wine pie and our Ham and Turkey Pie bought at Lenham. So we came home and had a nice tea before bed. Last night on the blow up mattress I’d grown to know and love…not to mention my spritely moves to get out of bed!!

Nest missive will hopefully come from Prague.

Of last days in London and another birthday

So yesterday was the day before I was another year older. I spent the day wandering around London and absorbing my last days in the city. I went to the Tate Modern to see the Photography of Conflict exhibition. I’ve so loved the galleries over the last few days and really love just getting myself around the city not knowing when I’ll get back. Then last night we went to Ottolenghi for dinner and I wasn’t disappointed the second time around. It really does do amazing food. The flavours are just extraordinary. It was a most gorgeous meal.

Then it was birthday day. What do I think about other birthday? Scary I think. It is all going too quickly. But overwhelmed by the birthday messages, the good wishes. So many…I’m a Facebook convert as well as email. It was great to be with Ham and Ariane, to speak to Rosa and Ang first thing.

Ham was amazing.He took the day off and we had a really fantastic day. Ham made a perfect Eggs Benedict for brekky. How good was that! Then we went of for a cruisy day in cool town. First we went to Liberty’s for a wander around. Ham was really doing his best, to the extent that he wandered around Liberty’s with me!! Then we joined the coolest set in town in Soho at the coolest coffee shop for cappuccino followed by a reverential viewing of the house where Karl MARX lived and then to the coolest pub (The French Pub) for a couple of prosecco’s before lunch. Then we moved on to the coolest lunch place in Soho (Ducksoup) and had a very cool lunch of small yummy dishes.

After lunch it was back on the Tube, pick up the hire car, pick up Ariane and head off to Kent. Shocking Friday night traffic out of town, booked into our seaside hotel…The Marine Hotel, then off to our dinner destination, a Michelin Star Country pub (name to follow tomorrow). It was truly AMAZINGLY good. We had the set degustation menu and couldn’t have been happier. We all just loved every single dish. Truly fantastic from go to whoa. Home, its midnight, the birthday is over for another year and the rest of the weekend still to enjoy.

Return to London Town

It’s been a few days. I’ll start with our last day in Dubrovnik.

It was another glorious and sunny day and we had decided to go up the mountain behind Dubrovnik on the cable car. All good, off we went and up we went. Very pretty view from up there looking down on the old town. But the wind was picking up in a most determined way and from up there it was howling fiercely. We had some lunch up on the rooftop which was lovely but then we got the call that the cable car was going to descend one last time and then cease operation for the day. Not good news for me who is very trepid when it comes to heights at the best of times. I did float the idea of getting a taxi down but I think H&A thought I was joking!!! Anyway it was fine, we got down safely. We wandered for the last time through the old town and had a ‘not very satisfying’ last Negroni. But the town was closing up before our eyes. Nowhere left to even eat so we retreated to home base…the gorgeous Hilton. We decided to eat there that night…really the only viable option and even they had closed their main dining room. So we lived it up…cocktails in the bar. Then a meal which was lovely and really quite reasonably prices.

So next day was flight to London day. We were so relieved that the wind had died down because we had heard that planes can’t land at Dubrovnik in the wind. We didn’t think this would be a problem…at least not until we got to the airport. Planes ahead of us were being diverted to Split and the passengers had to get a bus to Split to get their flights. We waited and waited. Our flight was delayed due to strong winds, they didn’t know whether it would be able to land to take us. This went on and on. Rumours abounded and we just had to wait getting half hourly bulletins. More than 3 hrs later our plane landed to the cheers of the slightly mad English people waiting to board her. I’ve been whinging constantly about Russian Tourists among others but honestly the eccentric/ bordering on quite mad English tourists on this chaotic flight of ours take the cake. It was like being in a Monty Python film.

Long story short after an enormous day we arrived home safely, got takeaway and went to bed!!

So back in London again. I do love London, there is no doubt about that and this time it is tinged with the sad realisation that without Ham and Az here who knows when or even if I will return so I take it all in rather sadly this time.

Yesterday I went to the Saatchi Gallery at Ariane’s suggestion and just LOVED the exhibition that was on there. It was East meets West PopArt and it really did blow me away, amazing, loved it. I then walked along King’s Road to Chelsea…so trendy, cooler than cool really and where you’d want to buy a house if you had zillions.

Last night we went to an Ethiopian restaurant with Wana and Mikey who have just returned from Australia. That was nice. They cam back to H&A’s for drinks after and as it was Christmas Tree pick up night we dismantled the Christmas tree and threw it downstairs out the window…that was a bit of a to do!!

Today I went to Tate Britain to see the Late Turner Exhibition which I also loved. Spent hours and got home after dark (not that that is hard i.e. 4.30pm). So one more day doing my own thing tomorrow, then Friday Hammy has taken the day off to spend with me which I am very excited about, then we are going down to Kent for the weekend for my birthday treat. That is exciting. And squashed in there is a meal at Ottolenghi tomorrow night. Then it’s all over Red Rover and I head to Prague on Monday.

More later. Bye for now

Dubrovnik

Another day in this lovely city. Day started well with a chat to Ang followed by a leisurely Hilton breakfast to ensure we get as much value for money as possible. Then it was off to walk the wall. That was really great. I felt as if I got my exercise for the first time in ages. The sun shone, the temperature rose to about (i’m told) 14. I discarded the coat and just loved the walk. Lots of steps involved to get the old legs going again. Beautiful views over city and sea. Time to stop and lap up a bit of warmth…just perfect.

Light lunch, wander back to Hilton luxury. Get a decent cup of coffee and then downtime before figuring out what to do for dinner.

Very relaxed day all in all. What else to say??

Ushering in 2015 in Montenegro and Dubrovnik

So yes, the restaurant we dined in for the night before NYE was special. It is obviously the best restaurant in Budva. Before the night was out they had offered us a table for NYE which was great.

So…NYE dawned as the 30th had ended. The wind howled all night, fiercely!! It was absolutely freezing. I went out in the morning and wandered around Budva for a while. Then I met Ham and Az and we went for lunch at the first place we’d booked for NYE. That was nice although only moderately good food. So after a leisurely meal we braved the elements once again only to find that the wind had stopped. It was fabulous…suddenly it was cold but fine so we did a bit more wandering before going back to the apartment to start drinking!! Our host gave us half a bottle of Rakja (or something like that) …i.e. a fierce local spirit and we had bought Prosecco and red wine. We sat about until it was time to go to dinner. We had a lovely meal and then hit the main square where it was ‘all happening’….it was full of people, a loud band and lots of good will. Only problem was that I mislaid Hammy and Ariane. I had a fine time, got lots of kisses from random strangers but I really upset Ham. No doubt he’ll fill you in on his senile old mother who makes life difficult!!!

Next day, hangover (Hammy) not withstanding we headed off to Lake Skadar. This was an adventure we were all looking forward to, staying in an Eco Resort no less. We headed odd to the Lake and had a drive around it…it really is gorgeous and so very pretty. Then off to the resort…fortunately we decided to get there early because we arrived to find it totally shut down. They not only took our booking but also sent reminders!! There we were in the middle of nowhere with nowhere to stay. Bugger!!
So we took a deep breath and headed for Dubrovnik directly. We had a booking at the Hilton for 3 nights and they had a room for us for the 4th night. This was my luxury treat for the end of our holiday that grew from 2 nights, to 3 nights, then 4 nights…but it is gorgeous, in a perfect position and definitely luxury. Amazing breakfast!!!

I’ve been out this morning exploring Dubrovnik while Ham returned the car. Now we’re off to forage for food.

Today we found the snow

Ooooohhh, so cold! We went off driving into the surrounding mountains today and finally found our white wonderland! Not far out of Budva in the surrounding hills we crossed the snowline. We went on to Cetinje, a charming town but covered in snow (not literally) and rather treacherous to walk around in. We did our best for a while. The highlight was seeing a lovely gentleman in a Santa suit coming towards us. He was real!!! A real long white beard and the closest thing to a real Santa I’ve ever seen!! He walked up to us and I thought he was going to object to us taking his photo…he didn’t, he handed us a lolly each and went on his merry way….how special was that!!

We then found a place to eat…nothing special, just a Pizza place and then headed off back to Budva given the slippery roads and the early descent of darkness. Oh so cold walking back to our apartment. We stopped on the way and booked a table for NYE dinner, back past the square where they are setting up for an NYE happening, then home to warm up before we venture out again to dine tonight…in what we are told is a very nice restaurant. I’m now having a warming glass of wine, Ariane is rugged up in blankets and Hammy is snoring!

Ciao for now!

Kotor to Budva

More time in beautiful Montenegro. It really is just lovely. Yesterday morning after a yummy breakfast at the hotel we wandered around the town of Kotor. Ancient little town with all that entails…narrow streets, cobblestones….you’ve heard it all before but I must say it is one of the more lovely towns I’ve seen. It is a walled city, small and charming. It is surrounded by a moat and then a river. There are the ruins of a castle on the hill which we didn’t climb, probably would have been blown off the top if we had. After our little passeggiata we got in the car to head towards Budva. We detoured to go up a mountain which was to afford amazing views. But we got half way and the wind was howling something frightful so we decided that the view from half way was good enough. We got out to take a photo and really nearly got blown away. The snow on the mountain was being blown off!!

So off we headed towards Budva. We were early so we decided to go to Sveti Stefan which is a very pretty island (which is now a hotel island). We walked around but the island/resort is closed so we couldn’t go there. Still it was very pretty, lovely coast. You can see why this is so popular in summer. It might be closed up now but at least we have it to ourselves instead of sharing it with millions of Russian tourists in the summer. We found a nice place for lunch overlooking Sveti Stefan. We are getting very used to eating in empty or nearly empty restaurants.

We arrived in Budva in the afternoon. It is a big resort/ concrete high rise town but fortunately with a delightful harbour and a lovely, lovely old town. We are staying in the old town just seconds from the harbour….perfect!!! This time we are in a 2 bedroom apartment which is very nice. A bit of room to spread out!! The owner is lovely and full of advice. We hear that it is ‘the place to be’ for NYE so seem to have landed on our feet which is good. A bit embarrassing to say that we went out last night to a Chinese restaurant and had lemon chicken etc!!!!!

We’re going to do a bit of exploring about the place today….nearly 2015!!
Love for now

To London and beyond

It has been 10 days or so since I left Bologna and headed for London. 10 days without a post. Its been a busy 10 days and a wonderful 10 days.

Arrived safely in London on 17th December with Hammy at the airport to meet me. Good thing that was too because I had so much luggage and duty free that I could hardly stagger out of the gate.

It really was so good to be with Ham and Az. Family time was overdue. So I happily settled onto the blow up mattress. Told my knees to just man up and get used to it which they dutifully did.

That was Wednesday. I had a couple of days to take in London again before the weekend and this I did. She is such a grand old dame you just have to love her really. Back on the Tube and the buses. So easy to get around and impossible to get lost.

First night Ariane was out and Ham and I went to the local pub for dinner. That was lovely. English pubs are really something else, so cosy by the fire but the prices are a bit of a shock when first hitting London from Italy.

Day 1 got to know the new neighbourhood where H&A live now. A whole different area since I was last in London. Off down to Upper Street Islington to peruse the shops, make sure Ottolenghi was still there. On a mission to find a decent coffee which I didn’t manage on Day 1…H&A told me where to go but somehow I missed it.

Then I got on a bus and headed off into town to wonder around the obvious places Somerset House, along the Thames, Trafalgar Square etc. Back on a bus and home. All good and feeling very acclimatised already.

Day 2 A perfect coffee at the place I finally managed to find and then on to the London Museum to see the permanent collection which I had never done. I’d been there for exhibitions e.g. Dickens but just loved their permanent collection. It was really great. Then walked down to St Pauls and got on a bus to Oxford Circus for a walk along Oxford Street. But so many people and dark so early so didn’t stay there long. On the tube and home. We were going out to dinner to a local restaurant LeCoq. Ariane was working late so Ham and I had a delicious pre-Christmas pub crawl before we all met up. Mulled cider, mulled wine and just plain wine…or a combination of Lager and Ale as the mood takes you (Ham for the beer, me for the wine). Mikey also joined us for dinner before he headed to Australia next day. Delicious meal.

Saturday we all went to the Borough Market (so crowded it was impossible), some shopping for Christmas Day and then to the Christmas Markets along the Thames. That was lovely. But very cold. Over the bridge to St Pauls then home for a break before Christmas Carols at the Royal Albert Hall. This is of course right up my alley even to the shedding of the mandatory tear at the first carol. It was however a little marred by the fact that Ham and Ariane were both unwell. They had the Killer Bug that I had yet to experience…but wait for it!!

Sunday Ariane felt crappy (and so did Ham but he carried on for my sake) so Ham and I went off to have a Yum Cha in Chinatown. It was delicious. Then we went to the Portrait Gallery to see the Permanent Collection. That was nice too but Ham was feeling crappy. Then to Somerset House to buy some supplies for Christmas Day such as Mince Pies and Marmalade. Then home to takeaway and to watch The Fall.

Monday I was starting to feel Killer Bugged but went off and met Hammy for lunch at his work which was lovely. Then I walked from his work to Brick Lane and down Brick Lane to Spitalfields Market, around the market for a while and then walked until I found a tube to take me home. Tea and home and more of The Fall.

Tuesday…chores to do for Christmas. Last minute presents to buy. Then I met Chris at the tube and we went off to collect the meat for Christmas Day (and Christmas Eve). Of Duck and Gammon and pigs in blankets, as well as cheeses. Having done the essentials Chris and I went to the Victoria and Albert Museum which was lovely, stuck our heads in the Museum of Natural History and then came home. That night Hammy took Chris and I around to Mikey and Wana’s flat to get us set up and then we all went out to The Albion, a pub near H&A, for a most delicious meal in a gorgeous pub. Chris and I then slept at Mikey and Wana’s for the next 3 nights.

Christmas Eve. Chris and I set off to the Tate Britain to see the Turner Exhibition only to find that the Museums had all closed for Christmas…bummer!! What to do?? All Museums closed we discovered after trying the National Gallery next. So nothing for it but to find a wine bar known to Chris from 40 years ago!!! Have some wine, go shopping for travel books and then to the matinee performance of Charles III. My early Christmas present to Chris. It was a great show. Then home and let Christmas begin!! And what a lovely Christmas it was….except for the Killer Bug that was haunting us. Christmas Eve it was Pigs in Blankets, Sausage Rolls and Christmas Pies. Then Christmas really got into full swing with presents over Skype with Rose, Ang and Kirst, what better way to start Christmas, it was Christmas morning in Melbourne. I got a Kindle which tickled me pink!! Then off to M &W’s place and to bed.

Finally…we arrive at Christmas Day. A very special day starting with presents..all very successful and very special. I got a kitchen Magic thingo to make soups etc in Italy. Great idea. The day was so relaxed and lovely…a day of grazing, drinking and culminating in the most divine meal of Duck, Gammon, delicious vegetables, Marmalade pudding and trifle…who could ask for more. We watched the movie Elf between main course and desert…perfect. Chris left on Boxing Day morning, I re- ensconced myself at H&A’s and we had a quiet and relaxed day eating leftovers and drinking. Then more episodes of the addictive Fall.

Next morning a car to Heathrow and flight to Zagreb and on to Dubrovnik. Pick up car rental and head off to Kotor. It was dark and wet by the time we got there. Hotel Monte Cristo….lovely old building with good restaurant for our sustenance before bed.

PHEW…That’s a very boring match up but will suffice to keep the record alive.

MONTENEGRO…what a beautiful place. The weather is patchy at best. Thunder and lightning overnight and rain on and off all day but with enough rain free periods to get a few walks in. We drove around the inlet, the Boka Kotorska. Walked along the waterfront at Perast, admired the gorgeous view of mountains with a sprinkle of snow on top, the bay and the little villages all around the inlet…just lovely. We made our way to a charming restaurant called Restaurant Catovica Mlini, an old mill by a millstream. It was lovely and the food fabulous. Seafood is the go here although the meat is also good. We then got a ferry over the inlet and headed home in hail!! Down time now as we put our minds to accommodation in Sicily for next September!!!

Up to date at last. Sorry about a long and boring email but I’ll try and be better at keeping up from now on given that I’m on the move again!!! Bye for now…even though Hammy and Ariane are only upstairs!!

Of leaving Bologna

Now I gear up to leave this city that I have grown to love over the last 2 months. I have made my first attempt to pack and have been totally defeated in my efforts to fit everything into my case…it is positively scary. I will have to start again and think of a different strategy somehow.

I have had my final cappuccino, bought my final meal, picked up my permisso di Soggiorno and have just returned from my final passagiatta around the city. I am in the process of finishing off my final bottle of wine!!

The city looks amazing, it really does. There is something so pretty about a Northern Hemisphere Christmas.

I have enjoyed the weekend. On Saturday I went to the Medieval Museum (which I had neglected to do until now), it was great, I then had lunch in one of ‘my’ restaurants (Bucca di Manzano, Rose). Then I took myself off to see the Burattini a Bologna which is a traditional puppet show…the Punch and Judy of Italy and closely related to the puppets we saw in Lyon. That was fun but I felt like a fish out of water with all these kids and their parents. It was in Italian but I could understand a bit given that it was pitched at 6 year olds.

Then I had a gorgeous day yesterday. One of my friends from Italian classes, Jiao, and his beautiful Italian wife Marta, took me to a Palazzo in the country call Palazzo Albergati. This beautiful Palazzo puts on a most sumptuous lunch one Sunday a month. It was an incredible meal in amazing surroundings. Needless to say I acquitted myself brilliantly, eating the wonderful traditional Bolognese winter/ christmas fare to excess. The desserts had to be seen (and eaten) to be believed. So I could barely move when we left after a tour of this amazing palace…a mini Versaille hidden in the Bolognese countryside. On the way home Fabrizia rang to say she and Giancarlo wanted me to come to dinner. Being the resolute person that I am I rose to the occasion and went and ate another meal with Giancarlo and Fabrizia and a Romanian friend of theirs. You would have been proud of me…or horrified as the case may be!!

The good thing out of all that is that Giancarlo is going to pick me up in the morning to take me to the station which rescues me from the walk to the station with 2 cases + extras(however I manage to take everything). My next worry is actually getting onto and off the train heaving the cases. This is the biggest worry travelling for such an extended period. Fortunately I can leave some stuff with Chris in order to be able to actually get on the plane to London.

Next missive will definitely be from London.