Susan's Travels

This will be a quickie. Today was a bit of a mooching day. It’s very hard to park in this gorgeous town so we went first thing to the Visitor Centre where there is a bus that circles the town and drops you off where you want to go. Beautiful sunny morning as we got on the bus and headed to the downtown area i.e. the Piazza. First port of call was coffee and some brekky. We sat outside in a lovely cafe with our coffee and the people sitting next to us latched on to us as so often happens. They gave us tips about the shops to go to, things to do etc etc. I have to say people are so friendly every which way. Everyone greets you, as soon as they hear my accent they want to chat so you spend your life smiling and chat, chat chatting. Remarkable really.

So we walked around this very beautiful, adobe town, into and out of shops with lovely things to look at and occasionally buy. Then the heavens opened like you wouldn’t believe. It poured and poured and poured. We darted in and out of shops, got wet, walked through puddles and soldiered on. That was, until we didn’t (soldier on I mean). There was a point when that was it. We waited in the pouring rain for our shuttle bus to come by and get us back to the car. What a sanctuary!

We came ‘home’ for a bit and then went off to get a meal. But first to find a wine shop to stock up on vino. Then to a fabulous New Mexico restaurant, Maria’s. I’m now resigned to the fact that New Mexican food is just Mexican food. So, we started the meal with a Margarita, we were served huge plates of Mexican food which was delicious. But we’ve got much smarter these days. We eat half the meal, get a doggy bag and take the rest home for tomorrow nght’s dinner. Two meals for the price of one and everyone is happy.

Tomorrow we’re off to a small town outside Santa Fe called Chimayo which is a small indigenous community where they make floor rugs.

Until then…..

Moving day. Taos was lovely but today we needed to move on to Santa Fe to another airbnb type house but this time I’d had a really bad experience with the owner/manager when I booked and I was dreading more weird experiences with them.

Anyway we set off early because we wanted to go via Chimaya which sounds really interesting, another indigenous adobe village where they specialize in rug making. We had booked into the Georgia O’Keeffe Museum at 1pm and had to be at our accommodation to check bet 3 and 4. But, you couldn’t bet more money on it, we got lost…again and completely missed the village. Our navigation systems keep conking out at crucial moments. So we kept on going and were in Santa Fe way ahead of schedule. I was driving so of course the navigator was to blame (and she was!!).

A word about driving in America. four cars are pulled up at a 4-way intersection. Nobody moves, so of course I say fuck it and I go, turning left (i.e. right turn for us). So I say to Norjie, “who should have given way there?”. She said she didn’t know, it was just intuitive !! WHAT!! She said she thought it was the first one who got to the intersection goes. I say that can’t be, what if there is a collision and both drivers say they got to the intersection first. So she looks it up. It’s true, the first one to get to the intersection! Then the one going straight ahead ( I was turning!). But the moral of the story is that they are all so hesitant that no-one goes. They’d all be dead in Australia in a flash.

We got to Santa Fe, went to the Tourist Centre then drove into town. It’s again an absolutely gorgeous city and, again, everything is adobe, every building. It’s a very hard city to park in but we found a park, walked to the Georgia O’Keeffe Museum and enjoyed a couple of hours there.,  learning about her and her life and her art.

Then lunch at a Mexican Restaurant (I’m already getting sick of Mexican food), then back in the car and it was time to go to our accommodation. The highly detailed and confusing instructions were difficult to follow and we just pulled up when this figure appeared from between the tree to tell us we were parking in the wrong place and hadn’t we read the instructions and everyone else understood them!! It was Kris, who it turns out is a female (I thought it must be a male because a female wouldn’t be so rude). My heart sank. But she eventually left!

We entered the house and it is unbelievable. It’s like a museum, cluttered with artifacts from head to toe. Much of it is religious memorabilia so I am looked over by Jesus and The Virgin at all points. It is stiff and uncomfortable albeit a gorgeous adobe home. We have been inundated be txts from Kris since we arrived. There is a house manual that you have to read and then had to txt her to confirm you have read them. We are completely sure there are nannycams in the statues of Jesus and we are being watched. Actually that isn’t such a joke.

Having had a late lunch we’ll skip dinner tonight. Norjie is hooked on Dark Winds which she’s watching on my PLex. Ham I think there are only 2 series on Plex, can you download the third??

Tomorrow I think we’ll browse around Santa Fe and try and get a handle on another fabulous town.

Today was a bit of a scatty day around Taos with many wrong turns and missed tourist attractions. However I must reiterate before I begin this is a lovely town where there is a sense of pride in their beautiful adobe houses and shops and a very strong Pueblan and Navajo presence and art scene.

So, first mission was coffee. We decided to try a different cafe recommended online. But it became clear very quickly that this was a mistake when I ordered a cappuccino and was asked whether I wanted it hot or cold. uhh ohh!! We sorted that out (aren’t cappuccinos only hot?) only to get the next question. Did I want milk or foam? It was too much for me. I just want a cappuccino…..aaaaahhhhhh!! Norjie was useless, all she could do was laugh. And by the way I was the nicest version of me, not an easy task.

Then we drove into the township. It was pleasing to drive through some noisy protestors with signs “Not our President”, something about ICE, blowing whistles and twirling hoola hoops.

We spent the morning walking the town centre and looking at the Native American art and crafts. It was Sunday morning so we were able to park and the shops opened gradually which was OK for us. It was good chatting to the shop people, who were often the artists and sculptors. In one place another customer was chatting to the shopkeeper about how terrible the tourist trade is and how international tourists were just not coming. They were really worried about what it would mean in the long term. However, this chap was glad that the Chinese tourists weren’t coming because they didn’t know how to go to the toilet. I gave him my worst look and told him I couldn’t agree with that and he told me most Australians would agree. Oh dear.

We then set off to see the Earthships. We had spotted them as we drove into Taos the other day. Houses that looked as if Gaudi had visited Taos and built a whole lot of houses. Today we went back to the Earthships Biotecture which is a community of sustainable buildings. You should look them up. Amazing!! I tried to capture some in the photos but we weren’t allowed too close because they are rented out.

Next stop: lunch. That is if we could find a place for lunch. Getting lost is becoming a bit of an expertise. Anyway we eventually found a place that was lovely. Now, we all know what big serves we get here but it is very routine to get a doggy bag. So we have started to eat half our large lunch and take half home to have for dinner with the glass of wine we have traveling with us. A very sound plan in my view…eat less and save money. A family having lunch there had a couple of Kelpies with them, a very strange sight. I told them they should be in Australia herding sheep. They said they did have anxiety problems because they didn’t have enough to do…these people, you have to laugh!! But not to worry she’s building an obstacle  course for him.

We were then going to a museum but we couldn’t find it and we had lost the will to live at that point so decided to come back to our lovely house and put our feet up.

We move to Santa Fe tomorrow to the house of the mad man who gave me such grief when I booked it. He’s haunting me again now so we’ll have to see how that goes. Until Santa Fe……

It was a slower start this morning. We got up and found a good coffee shop for a cappuccino. That is a definite treat in this country. We then went to the Visitor Centre to get some guidance, but as is often the case the guidance is rather gabbled and I can’t always keep up with what they are saying.

Nonetheless we set off to find the Taos Pueblo which was really amazing. It, like we saw in Mesa Verde, are the multi-storey adobe dwellings of the Pueblan Native Americans. But this time it was a vibrant, living community who had been here for over 1000 years. It is, once again a UNESCO World Heritage site and the dwellings are handed down between generations. Many of the homes are open and the inhabitants practice their art forms. The nice thing is chatting to them about their life and art. It was really a great experience. They have no electricity or running water so they can, as much as possible maintain their traditiional lifestyle.

It was very hot in the midday sun and we decided to find somewhere for lunch. Driving around Taos, apart from getting endlessly lost because of the shit connection they have to the internet, it is a marvellous, small town where every single building is made in the adobe style. And they are so beautiful and stylish. The Mexican influence is everywhere. This part of the world is dominated by Spanish, with Mexican food being predominant.

We found a great restaurant, La Cueva, yes, Mexican, and had the best lunch. I had a most delicious seafood enchilada. So yummy. The only thing that ruined it for me was the table of very loud Americans behind me who spent my lunch time talking, very loudly to their kids like idiots. “i know sharing is hard”, “Good teamwork”, “well done, you did it” loud, repetitive and constant. I wanted to shout…”Shut the fuck up kids”. But of course I didn’t. I had another sip of my Sierra Nevada!!!

After lunch we went to see the Hacienda de los Martinez. Not much to write home about there. Very run down old adobe homestead owned by a Spanish family who traded in Native American slaves as far as I could see.

In the 17century the Native American and the Spanish joined forces to repell the American onslaught…that didn’t go so well as we know.

So we came home early and have had a lovely lazy afternoon.

First to say that Mancos is in Colorado and the scenery had been changing dramatically as we started moving East yesterday. The Rocky Mountains dominate even this far south and everything starts getting green. So the drive from Mancos to Taos is right across Colorado and it really is beautiful with the Rockies looking down on you.

But I’m skipping ahead of myself. We got up this morning and had a very nice espresso cappuccino at the little bar on the property. Then we set off for the Mesa Verde National Park. As I said yesterday, world heritage listed and just truly amazing. Not to put you to sleep too quickly but the Pueblans are a peoples who lived in this canyon        ( and beyond) two thousand years ago. They built dwellings in the cliffs and cliff tops out of mud, stone and wood. Some of these dwellings are incredibly complex and elaborate. But my photos depicting the dwellings are definitely not too fabulous. Anyway I’m slowly learning about these people but still don’t fully understand their relationship to the Native Americans. Their ancestors are living in Taos today and there will be more about that in the coming days. For today, the Mesa Verde was another wow experience.

But we were very pushed for time because we had a long drive over to Taos after the NP. So we then started the drive across Colorado. Because we are coming up to 4th July we went through towns so decked out with Americana. Bunting, wreaths, flags abounded. The odd TRUMP:AMERICA FIRST signs, and signs for rodeos etc. Very middle America. Amongst all this, beautiful old but well maintained houses and shops that took you back. They really value their heritage and preserve it beautifully.

We finally arrived at our airbnb in Taos. A lovely adobe home with gorgeous Native American rugs, cushion covers and art. It is lovely. We went into town to forage for food and had a quick look around. Everything is Adobe, strong Native American presence, both Navajo and Pueblan. I can’t really say more until I’ve explored more tomorrow.

Off again by around 7am after a rather horrid Motel American breakfast. I ordered, of course I ordered, because it was included in the price of the room. But I just couldn’t eat it.

So off we set from Green River back down to Canyonlands NP. First was the Island in the Sky Scenic Drive. We drove and walked to lookouts of the canyon. It was very pretty but again, not too different from what we had seen. We then headed off to another entrance into Canyonlands. We had to go out of the NP, drive for nearly 2 hours and then re-enter to see the Needles Scenic Drive. As we drove into the second section we were both wondering if this was going to be worth it. Maybe we should have just headed straight to Mancos.

But we were wrong, it was different and we loved it. All these mushroom shaped rock formations that were different and extraordinary. We loved them. It was hot and a long drive but it was worth it. The whole of Southern Utah is just an amazing and vast land full of beauty. Again, can’t wrap words around it. Just have to send some pics and hope you can imagine it.

Then a 2.5hr drive on to Mancos to this very quirky, retro motel done out in 50s style.It actually is gorgeous. It has a lovely little bar in a kind of container and we went and sat there and had a SouthWestern Margarita. Everyone chats away to us. Lovely people everywhere. Like, really delightful, genuine and interested people.

Then out to dinner in an American-type diner which had lots of atmosphere. Another couple of glasses of vino and a drink-drive trip back to the motel. It’s a lovely historic town with beautiful old houses and what looks like a big artists community.

Now, shower and bed. Tomorrow we can get started a bit later. Off to the Mesa Verde NP which is UNESCO World Heritage Listed for its ancient Pueblas and rich Native American culture going way back. More tomorrow.

Up and off again early this morning. We stopped in a small town on our way up the highway for a coffee and something from the bakery. It was actually a half decent coffee. Espresso no less. That was nice. We then headed to Canyonlands National Park but again got a bit lost so decided we were better to go to Arches National Park and leave Canyonlands for tomorrow.

Now, Arches is fantastic, splendid, awesome and if it had been the first National Park we had visited we would have been in awe. But it paled into insignificance after Bryce, the North Rim of the GC etc. You just get to a point of over-awe!! Anyway, as I said it was wonderful. More generally this part of the world is truly beyond amazing and each part has to live up to the previous part. Tough gig!!

We headed out of there and came on to tonights accommodation. A hotel by the Green River. Our rooms look out onto the river. It is peaceful and lovely. We went out for dinner next door. The food is not really easy, so much of it on your plate is the main issue. And the waitresses…just on your back the whole time, grabbing plates from under your nose and wanting to know if you want more.

As a general observation I would say that Australia is just much more relaxed in hospitality generally. On the other hand everyone here wants to chat and greets you when they pass etc.

Another tiring day is over and another starts tomorrow. Tomorrow it’s off to our final Canyon experience at Canyonlands National Park. Then it’s a night in Mancos.It’s amazing, but so far everything is working like clockwork. Fingers crossed it will continue like this.

God these days are big, big days that are full and exhausting. Up and on the road by 7 at the latest. I’m behind the wheel most of the time and on a mission. Today we lost an hour by following a rogue GPS but back on track and thinking of getting where we’re going when I look behind and there are the red and blue flashing lights I’ve dreaded. I’m well primed about American police…keep your hands visible, don’t get out of the car, do whatever they say. So I scramble for my license before he can shoot me and winde down my window. Hello officer, I squeak! Did I do something wrong?

Well, he was charming. I’m Officer Peterson, yes you were doing 54 MILES in a 35 MILE zone. Oh!! I’m so sorry I was distracted Officer. He looks at my license tells me to say “Put another shrimp on the Barbie”. I comply with my best Aussie accent and he tells me to go but to drive safely. Phew !!! Norjie was very glad I was driving!

We went on our way and 6.5 hrs of driving later we arrived at Monument Valley within the Navajo Reservation. We were lucky enough to get on a Navajo Tour an hour or two later. It was a fabulous tour right out into the restricted backcountry. Its another amazing landscape, the only thing missing was Joe Leaphorn (not to mention John Wayne). It went for 3.5 hours so I am indeed very tired tonight but worth every bit of it. We had dinner at Goulding’s where we are staying and came back to our littler apartment for a quick, sneaky glass of wine (the reservation in dry).

I can’t go on. More tomorrow as we head up to Canyonlands. It is really ceaseless and it’s about time we had a quiet day but I can’t see that happening any time soon.

This place is the gift that just keeps on giving. Bryce Canyon, it seems to us, is the jewel in the crown. I keep saying the same thing, you can’t adequately describe it and you definitely can’t come near capturing it with an iphone. I can use all the adjectives that I’ve used before but truly it is just absolutely amazing and awe inspiring.

It was also a great day because the shuttle bus wasn’t mandatory so we had the luxury of going from place to place at our own pace. The crowds were a 10th of what they were at Zion, maybe because it’s no longer the weekend. There was, of course, lots of walking to view points, up hill and down dale, but every time you were in no doubt that it was worth every bit of blood, sweat and tears. Those HooDoos are geological magic the likes of which you won’t see anywhere. Of course I’ll send photos as soon as I get a minute but they won’t do justice. I have to say that this is a truly remarkable adventure.

Again, it was a full day and we got back to the hotel exhausted. We ate dinner here ( my first burger in the Great U S of A!!) and now we have to get organised for another long day tomorrow over to Monument Valley in Navajo Country. I’m doing lots of driving and managing well.

Long but magnificent day today. We set out early to drive nearly 3 hours to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. I drove all day again today so I’m getting used to it. Didn’t put the windscreen wipers on every time I turned a corner, didn’t run off the road and didn’t pull out on to the wrong side…not once, not at all…hurray for me!!

Anyway, long story a bit shorter cos it’s getting late. We got to the Visitor Centre and then set off on the Cape Royal Road Scenic Drive. There were scenic look outs along the way and every time we got to a lookout it absolutely made you gasp. I absolutely have to add it to my “WOW” moments. We got to the end of the road where there is a walk to Angels Window (see photos). You walk over the top of the window to take in the view. Then down to Cape Royal Point to see another stunning vista to take your breath away. On the walk back we saw a chipmunk and a rock squirrel (at least I’m claiming the chipmunk but really it was a blur). Then on to Imperial Point. It really was stunning and there is, once again, nothing I can do to convey the amazing grandeur of it all. The massive depth and width of it. So much more impressive on the North Rim which is much higher than the West side where I went on my trip from Vegas and which pales into comparison.

We had read that the Grand Canyon Lodge had a lovely area to get a drink and sit with a magnificent view overlooking the Canyon. So we planned to have an early dinner there before heading back. In we went. We were very disappointed that there wasn’t a window seat but, what can you do, so sat down anyway. Just as we sat down, before we had ordered, a table by the window became available. So we asked if we could move to the window table. The Manager said ‘no’. We said, why not? The manager said because it was our allocated waitress’ turn to have a customer. We said, why can’t she serve us at the window table (the restaurant was nearly empty)? Because that is not where she is allocated and if we move, that waitress won’t get our tips. We said she won’t get our tips if we leave so why not just let her serve us on another table. No!! So we left, very disappointed. And very grumpy at how illogical it all was. This is a weird country in so many ways.

Fortunately we found a lovely, funky cafe in Kanab on the way home and I had the best meal I’ve had since I left Melbs. A lovely trout done cajun style. Yummy. Norjie tips much less than me so I’m going to get braver.

That’s enough for now. Another big day tomorrow as we head off to Bryce Canyon. Its all a bit exhausting but there is so much to see and to love.