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Warsaw 30th July 2019

Another really interesting day in Warsaw, exploring the Old (but really new) Town. And I have to take back what I said about the Russians taking over the flat earth that was Warsaw.

In fact the Old Town is truly amazing and a tribute to the Poles who meticulously rebuilt it after the razing of 1944. It blows my mind as I sit in the Old Town Square in what, for all intents and purposes, is a beautiful and ancient old Square, then to think again…totally rebuilt stone by stone in its own image using old photos and records to ensure it was accurate.

I honestly thought I’d seen it all in Dresden in terms of what humans can achieve but I think Warsaw has upped the ante. And I almost didn’t come here, but I’m so glad I did. Not because its the worlds most beautiful city (it isn’t) but because it is a testament to the capacity for regrowth and regeneration after devastation. New respect for the Poles in my mind anyway.

But let me go back to the start of today. First thing is I bought sunglasses duty free in Melbourne. An expensive pair and a cheaper pair for the car etc. Well I discovered this morning that the cheaper pair lasted all of 24 hours and now I’ve lost them!! So I retraced my steps back to where I had my morning coffee yesterday to see if they were there…no luck so I have to give up and consider them gone…so infuriating but I guess I can only hope that thats the worst to happen to me.

Then I walked down to the Old Town. I enjoyed today, it was more relaxed, just walking, people watching and exploring. This town is not full of tourists so its nice not to be battling crowds. I know that will change in Krakow but I’m enjoying it while I can. There are, of course, people whizzing past me on those electric scooter things, zipping in and out of pedestrians and I consider it very lucky to be avoiding them thus far. And there is also the heat. Its only 32C but when you’re plunged into it, it’s draining and sweaty.

I considered, and then considered again, the prospect of doing a tour of the Royal Palace but I decided not to in the end, feeling totally museumed – out yesterday. I had soup for lunch and sat around a bit. I had visions of sitting by the river but Warsaw doesn’t seem to use their river as well as they might, it’s hard to get close to and sadly no cafes line the river. Nothing like those other cities that utilise their rivers as lively, people places (Rome, Paris, London, Melbourne).

About 5pm every day I’ve been here, the thunder and rain roll in. I was a bit unsure what to do with myself this afternoon because there is a fabulous restaurant scene around the old town and I hadn’t had a ‘real’ Polish meal to date. I’d only had soup and fluids so I decided I’d eat early then come back to the hotel. So at 5pm I went to a rather more fancy restaurant recommended by LPG which was on my way back. For the record, Dawne Smaki on Nowy Swiat.

I decided in my (not so) wisdom to get a few entrees to try a variety of Polish food. So I ordered Herring, followed by 4 different types of Pierogi (one each that is) and then Bigos. So I finished the first two courses and could barely get a mouthful of the Bigos down. I just had to give up!!! Polish food I must say overwhelms me somewhat although I do love the soups!! Anyway, I enjoyed the meal and feel as if I’ve at least had one real Polish meal, including a complementary cherry vodka!!. I was back here by 7pm!! Talk about an early meal. I’ll have to do some quick readjustment when I hit Italy.

Train at 9am in the morning to Krakow, So I’ll get myself organised now and hop into bed.

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Warsaw: 29th July 2019

Another big day reminding me that I could be fitter as I adjust to walking, being hot and being tired from the business of life over the past few months. I had pre- booked tickets to the 1000Yr History of the Polish Jews and the Warsaw Rising Museum. Neither are open on Tuesday so it had to be today or never and they are the ‘must see’ ones. Otherwise one should never try to see them both on the same day. They are both massive and all consuming…although my ‘all-consuming’ tended to keep leaving me!! I needed Rose with me to say …thats enough lets get out of here!!

I spent so much time in the History of the Polish Jews that I had to hop in a taxi to get to the next one in time for my timed ticket (but maybe, just maybe, thats an excuse!!!). Having said that I’ve rapidly got my head around the Warsaw tram system and am quite proud of my efforts to negotiate the city on PT.  Somewhere in there I had cabbage soup for lunch!

Anyway, 2 museums…that was it today! What did I learn? Bloody hell ,in the hierarchy of disaster, trauma and a shit deal from history, the Polish Jews have to be top of the list and the Poles generally next.  5 years under the Germans got rid of most of the Jews, followed by 55 years under the Soviets. We should thank some bloody higher being every day for being born when and where we all were.

The Warsaw Rising Museum just explained, for me,  the city that Warsaw is today. Basically the Germans totally destroyed it leaving a Green Field for the Soviets to make as ugly and bland as their limited imaginations could manage. I was also struck by the fact that I thought I had seen it all with the destruction of cities like Cologne and Dresden by the allies but I had never heard a lot about the total destruction of Warsaw by the Germans. Why is this so???

After the Museum I got on the tram ( achievement being that it was the right tram) for home. A short walk to the hotel and miracle of miracles I found a little supermarket that sold wine! In my excitement I forgot a most crucial thing…I bought a bottle of wine with a fucking cork and, probably due to the rush to get packed, I hadn’t packed what is usually an essential for me, a corkscrew!! Anyway a resourceful Irwin as always I managed to get the cork in (as opposed to out) with a pair of scissors. I’m not sure who would be proud of me these days, but Lin would have been!

Then I wimped out. I was looking for restaurants to eat dinner around here somewhere but it started raining and my phone search rated the hotel as a good restaurant so I went down and ate here. It was definitely a wimp -out as I haven’t really conquered the eat out scene at all. I had spare ribs, it was huge and I didn’t enjoy it that much…so stupid deal that one. I had an espresso martini as compensation.

Tomorrow I feel will be more relaxed. I’m going to walk to and around the Old Town. No major attractions to overwhelm the senses, just a walk, maybe some time by the river and maybe get a decent meal for at least one of the meals. But that will be another story…..until tomorrow, goodnight

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Melbourne to Warsaw 27/7/19

So, small but loyal readers. Here we go again. A bit boring I know but you only have to read on if you really want to!!

The trip over here: Honestly every time I book it I wish I could afford to upgrade to posh class, but then I do it and I wonder why you would ever waste that much money. For part of the trip I sat next to a guy who was at least 7’. Part of some Polish team or other and if I was him I reckon I’d fork out….the poor guy had to sit in the middle seat with his knees under his chin. But me, its the only time being a total short arse is the way to go.

For 23 hours I binge -watched all of season 3 of True Detective. A bit disjointed as I kept nodding off and missing bits. And then when the last episode had 30 mins to go they took my ear phones off me ….aaaaggggghhhhhh!!!!!.

Finally…Warsaw!! Found my way to the train and in negotiating tickets etc I was totally, pleasantly surprised to find that everyone in Poland over 68 travels for free on all transport. Can you believe it!!! So train into Central Warsaw and I managed to find my hotel without too much by way of error. Its very nice, even a bit posh although not in the league of the one you stayed in A & K.

Not wanting to waste too much time I checked in and then set off to the Palace of Culture and Science which is just over the road from where I’m staying. I went via a coffee shop (have to stay awake and going) which had me eyeing off the amazing “bad” things. Watching gorgeous Polish young things drinking chocolate piled high with cream. I also went past a ceramics shop with things in it to die for….can’t carry anything at this stage but I love it, I’m such a sucker for ceramics.

Then the Palace of C & S. I’m not telling most of you anything when I say all that Sovietness is the same wherever they’ve been, those fucking Ruskies. It looks impressive but it just has “that” look. I went up to the top with multiple others queueing for the lift, mainly Polish I noted, it being Sunday. Certainly not the best observation deck, nor the best view but gave me a good sense of the city. After walking all the way around the Palace I was starting to feel rather tired I must admit. It’s been a big 24 hours!!

So I came back to my piece of luxury here, plopped myself in the bar, had a couple of glasses of wine (one complementary) and some pierogi. Now I’m up in my room, I’m going to have a shower and hop into bed very soon. Big day tomorrow with 2 pre- booked tickets to the 2 big museums – Warsaw Rising and the History of the Polish Jews.

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Kovalam- Another Day of laziness and indulgence

Read yesterday and repeat, basically.

Sally went off this morning into Trivandrum to try and find some T-shirts. She went in on the bus to find a mall. What did I do? I planted myself by the swimming pool and flopped in and out. Then I went for a walk down to the beach where the fishermen were out in force hauling in the nets. It was fascinating and I stayed there for ages watching them battle the sea to bring in the massive nets…about 20 men on each line hauling for all they were worth. The catch wasn’t too lucrative, a few good sized fish, lots of underweight fish (but not by Indian standards) and masses of really HUGE jellyfish, and I mean really huge!!

I wandered a bit more around the beach and the lagoon behind the beach. At about 12md I decided it was time for a Pina Colada but to my dismay I was told that the first day of every month in Kerala is alcohol free, called Dry-Day….WHAT?????

Linda joined me and we wandered some more, swam some more and then had some lunch at the resort. Sally got back from Trivandrum (Where they are playing a One Day match against the Windies today). No success with T-Shirts. She went off to find herself some lunch and lo and behold she came back from outside our gated city with some gin in a glass and a can of Tonic…that was a minor miracle!!

Linda and I did a bit more shop crawling, Linda buys a lot of things!! I am back now for a shower and regroup before Linda and I go out for a final meal. She leaves first thing in the morning so this is actually it. Sally and I have to wait until 10.45pm to depart. We have late check out until 4pm, then have to wait until 6pm to go to be picked up to go to the airport and then I guess it’s hang around the airport until departure. All I want to do is get home!!

Now I’m just back from dinner down at Lighthouse Beach with Linda. Sally didn’t come…she felt unwell again. We wandered around for a bit once more, Linda picking up bits and pieces of jewellery along the way. I bought a lovely (I think cows head) but I’m quite sure it’ll be confiscated by the Aussie customs boys…it is made from raw wood so it will be the luck of the draw I think.

We went back to last night’s restaurant for dinner. I cant remember if I told you about it. Coconut Grove it is called. Lovely looking fish and monstrously large prawns out the front. We had prawns again and a bit of Calamari. It is lovely. Red wine, no worries, but please keep it under the table!!

Then back by Tuk Tuk…he had waited for us poor man. How could you not give them massive tips????

Then it was goodbye to Linda who has been my salvation for much of this trip. She is off early in the AM and we have to fill in time until the night. It wont be too hard!!

I think I’m signing off now until I get home. I’ll have to pack the computer up tomorrow. Maybe one last blog from home…this time its over and out for long break from travel.

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Relaxing in Kovalam

No wake up call for the first time in ages, that was nice. Then a fairly relaxed morning. I wandered off to do a bit of browsing in the local shops. Bought a top that is probably a mistake but it was only $20 so not a big mistake at all. After a while I bumped into Sally and she decided that she wanted to shout me a head massage. You know what I’m like about massages but I went along with it. God is was full back, neck, and head with the woman kneeled on top of me digging into my back. If there had been a CCTV under the headrest it would have been hilarious as my face contorted with each push down on my poor vertebrae. When that was over I headed straight to the pool…ouch!!

I plopped around in the pool. Sally donned her bathing cap, snorkel and mask and had a swim. Then Linda turned up so we had a snack and a drink (Pina Colada again). I stayed poolside and Sally came up to shower and go to bed again for the afternoon.

So I’m up now and showered and soon Linda and I are going to go down to Lighthouse Beach for some browsing and probably to get some dinner down there. Sally won’t come as she doesn’t feel well. So life goes on for the rich and the leisurely for another couple of days before we finally get on the plane to head home. Linda is heading to the Maldives and then Sri Lanka.

Back now after a lovely evening. We got in a Tuk Tuk and stopped along the way at a couple of art and craft places…just looking, not buying!! Then the same Tuk Tuk took us on to Lighthouse Beach where we walked along the beach and up along the shops, peering in regularly to see what we could see. Great fun…we walked the whole beach and then finally stopped at a fish restaurant for a delicious meal of grilled fish and prawns. It was a great meal and we were so happy to be as far away from a buffet as we could possibly get on this, our first night of freedom.

Then a Tuk Tuk back home. In the meantime Sally did get up and took herself off to Lighthouse Beach but we didn’t run into each other. I think today will be repeated tomorrow.

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Last day of the tour. Trivandrum

Today was the last day of the tour. After breakfast we set off on the bus for a whizz around Trivandrum (which now goes by another very long and complicated Indian name that I cant spell). First stop was the Puthe Maliga Palace (Palace of Horses because of the 122 horses carved into the brackets of the walls), a beautiful, old wooden building that is now a museum. It was the palace of the Maharaja of Travencore. We walked around the magnificent rooms that are full of beautiful antiquities including stunning carved ivory, an even more stunning carved ivory throne and a crystal throne which was also beautiful…and much much more but what people are most likely to remember is the heat/ humidity…we were all bathed in a pool of sweat so much so that people were feeling quite sick.

Anyway it was really interesting and very gorgeous. Next to it is a magnificent Tamil / Hindi temple, The Sri Padmanabhaswamy Temple intricately carved in white stone and the richest Hindu Temple in the world. Only Hindi people are allowed inside but the outside is a joy to behold.

The third ‘sight’ was the Napier Museum. Again in a most beautiful wooden building with a superbly carved roof. And again with amazing objects of finely carved ivory, intricate, bronze statues and carved marble and stone statues. That was good but again there was an awful lot of sweat involved.

We then went to two places for people to shop but I didn’t find anything I liked. Linda (my friend) got a severe case of the trots and had to find toilets in a very big hurry a number of times!!

We then came back here to the hotel. Sally went to bed for the afternoon again so I went down to the pool…the rest of the group were packing to get on their planes tonight, so it was just me indulging myself in multiple dips and a pina colada to boot. Sally is still in bed so I’m down in the lobby writing this. We’re all going out for a final dinner tonight. Then most of the group head off to the airport (I wish I was with them) and a few of us come back here to spend a few extra nights.

More later…Back from dinner now having farewelled the group heading off to the airport. Its a strange feeling after 30 days with the same people, it is weird when suddenly they’re not there…I have to say I didn’t love everyone but it was an incredibly harmonious group without frictions overall. Fortunately for me Linda is also staying on for 3 days so all is not lost!! Aji has also gone and we are now definitely unhinged from the mass. When we got back here Linda and I went for a wander (Sally went to bed…at 8pm!), browsing some shops and sitting by the pool having a drink before we came up to our rooms.

More tomorrow. Only 3 more sleeps in India + 1 on the plane…so looking forward to getting home now. XXXXXXXXXXXX

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Backwaters of Kerala

Here I am back in the world of the landlubbers (is that a word??). We set off for the houseboat area early in the morning yesterday, stopping first in Jew Town again to see inside the synagogue, it being Sunday morning and therefore open. That was good, it was built in 1568 and was interesting, with individually made tiles, ancient chandeliers, old pulpit and beautiful woodwork.

Back on the buuus and off we headed for Alleppey, a small town near the backwaters where we stopped at a supermarket for supplies for the boat. We were still on the hunt for gin which seems very elusive in Kerala so we stopped at a grog shop which had a massive queue outside of Indians lined up for their weekend supplies. The seas parted as they let us jump the queue, perhaps due to a certain air of desperation. But alas, no gin. Fortunately I had my red wine so I wasn’t going to be the one suffering.

So, off to board the houseboat at Nedmundy, run by Evergreen Tours. We had already worded Aji up about Linda, Laureen, Sally and I being on the same houseboat and he gave us a boat for 4 people. There were 4 boats for the 20 of us. We set off at around 1pm and it was the most lovely experience. They served us lunch promptly and we sat on the water, cruising along with wooden fishing boats, sea eagles, women and kids on the shores doing their washing, swimming and playing.

We got off the boats at one point in a small town where the large catholic church was having a service. Definitely an improvement on the services in Australia…a jam-packed church with Indian/ Christian fusion music that sounded good.

Anyway, never let it be said that I’d get carried away with a church service. Back on the boat and we putted along again until around 6pm when they have to stop the boats so the fishermen aren’t disturbed. Then it was just quiet and peaceful and rocking. They served us dinner on the boat and we went to bed early with a very gentle rock. We were served attentively by 3 lovely men, a Captain, a cook and an assistant to both…what more could a little boat of women want??

This morning it was up, the boat started moving again at 7am and we watching the water-dwellers getting up and going off to work and school. We docked at around 8am, got back on the bus and spent the first part of the day driving here to Kovalam down on the coast. It is a resort on the beach, although the beach isn’t that pretty… a bit like Sri Lanka, Rose, although the resort isn’t as tasteful. There are 3 swimming pools.

I went off by myself after lunch here and got in a Tuk Tuk to go and check out what was supposed to be the best swimming beach around. It is about 2km from here and it was steaming hot so I Tuk Tukked. The beach called Lighthouse Beach, was underwhelming, the sand was black, it was rough and uninviting. The walk along the beachfront was lined with slightly grotty tourist shops full of the usual shawls etc. I walked the length of it in my customary pool of sweat and then got in a Tuk Tuk to bring me back. I’d put my bathers on before I left so I walked in here and flopped into the pool without hesitation.

It was a lovely swim, then back up here…Sally was in bed asleep.

We have booked in here for the next 4 nights. This is the last night of the tour. We all do a tour around Trivanthum tomorrow and then most members head off home tomorrow night. I must admit I am wishing that I was one of them but we have another 3 nights.

Off to drinks in Laureen’s room now and then to dinner before too long so I’ll send this now while the WiFi seems to be working.

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Kochi

A day of touring around Kochi. Firstly to the Dutch Palace built by the Portuguese in 1545. It has the most beautiful frescoes covering the walls telling the story of Vishnu and his sons. They are amazing but no photos allowed which I find very frustrating. Next we walked through Jew Town (yes Jew Town, not Jewish town). There are 5 jews in Kochin, the most famous of whom is 93 yrs and you can peer in through the window of her house and see her moaning on her bed. She is demented and thinks she is in London, we’re told!! That was an unedifying experience!! We wandered around there for a while, poking around in shops, visiting the synagogue that has no Rabbi and can’t get the Jewish equivalent of a quorum for services, but we couldn’t enter anyway because it was Saturday.

Then we went to the Kochi equivalent of the Mumbai laudromat. An area where about 10 men do the washing for this city, pounding the washing vigorously in cubicles. It then gets hung out to dry then ironed using an iron full of hot coals, folded and delivered back. Next we went to St Francis Church which was the first European Church built in India by the Portuguese. Vasco De Gama’s tomb is there but no body (I missed why that was!!). Old Vasco was a blood thirsty, murdering bastard from this side of the historical perspective.

We then walked to a restaurant called Arches for lunch. We had calamari and large prawns which was a treat, and in keeping with being down here.

After lunch we walked down to the water to see the Cantilevered Chinese Fishing Nets. A bit like the stick fishermen of Sri Lanka they are a relic from the past that is kept alive for the tourists. But fascinating nonetheless.

Then we demanded that Aji find us a bottle shop so we could all stock up with for night on the houseboat tomorrow night in mind. We all piled off the bus to ensure our needs were met but sadly the only drink they didn’t have was gin. I got some wine which suits me but Laureen, who had had to go back to the hotel due to the trots, is sadly missing out. We had a quiet word to Aji about who we wanted to go on the houseboat with which was good, there are 4-6 per houseboat and that could have been a total disaster. That is tomorrow night and there is no WiFi on the houseboat.

We are going out to a concert tonight then back for dinner and to pack a small overnight case for tomorrow. Kerala seems really different to the rest of India that we have seen. It is laid-back, hippy-ville. The pace has slowed down, there are less people hassling us all the time, the traffic has slowed and generally it feels more relaxed. More later tonight, then nothing for the next night!!

We went to a dance performance tonight that is specific to Kerala called Kathakali. There are no words spoken and it is all done with expressions. It was terrific…really interesting to watch. The female parts are played by men and the makeup is an art in itself.

Back to dinner and now time for bed. As I said, no WiFi for the next 36 hrs as we experience a houseboat!!

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Down to Kochi

Such a big day yesterday. We didn’t get down here until 11pm and we then had to eat our dinner, get our room keys etc and get sorted. It was well after midnight before I at least got any sleep. Now its up and on the road again.

For all of that yesterday was brilliant. It was a sightseeing day of Mumbai. Now I didn’t think for a minute that we’d be able to get any idea of Mumbai driving around in a bus all day but in fact we did. At least enough to know it is a brilliant city and one that I would really like to return to and spend some solid time in. It helped having a fabulous guide for the day.

We saw amazing colonial era buildings such as Victoria Station, the High Courts and many others, we saw Chowpatty Beach and drove down the Marine Drive walked around the Gateway to India and the magnificent Taj Hotel next to it (subject of a horrible terrorist attack), we watched the Indians out in force playing cricket in what looks like a 24/7 activity…all in their whites. We went to the Dhobi Ghat which is this massive area that is an outdoor laundromat where the washing of Mumbai is done, every day over 100 people wash hundreds of kilos of clothes and linen and hang them out to dry. We saw the biggest food moving operation of all time where Indians on bikes, on foot and on trains pick up the lunches of the office workers, bring them to a central point to reorganise the lunch boxes according to their destinations and then deliver them to the workplace…amazing.

We had lunch and then went briefly to the Afghan Church (dedicated to the 4,500 Indians the British sent into Afghanistan in 1819 and all but 1 died) and to the hanging gardens which are nice but birds of prey circle overhead because the Parsi’s lay out their dead next door in a forested area and the birds come and pick the bones.

Then it was to the airport. We had to say goodbye to Hassan then, that was very sad, we had become very dedicated to him and we were all sorry to see him depart. On the plane and down here to Kerala to meet a new guide, Aji, who seems OK but we haven’t really got to know him at all.

Sally has a cold again and is miserable…not much to be said about that. Off now for a day exploring Kochi which I’m looking forward to.

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Ellora Caves and on to Mumbai

Another exceptional day but oh so busy. Its now 10.15 pm and I’ve just come up to our room. There is just no time anywhere.

So…we set off this morning to go to the Ellora Caves…Truly and honestly amazing. The most stunning one is the Hindu Kailash Temple. It is a massive temple carved out of the basalt cliff. It is made from a single piece of rock and took 150years to carve. It has intricate carvings all around it and is just a remarkable sight both inside and outside the temple. Hard to describe and it will probably get very boring if I try but for me it was one of the highlights of India and that is saying something.

There are other temples including another beautiful Buddhist Temple but everything else pales against the Kailish. It was a much, much more accessible temple than those at Ajanta and therefore a more pleasant excursion.

We went back to the hotel for lunch and then set off for the airport to get a flight to Mumbai. The airport preparation is always a kerfuffle as everyone agonises over getting their luggage down to 15kgs. We were moving things around cases those of us with some capacity could take things for those over the limit. It serves little purpose because everyone just stuffs heavy gear into their hand luggage….I think the plane will go down every time!!

To end another busy day, we are here in Mumbai and tomorrow night we go down to Kerala after a day sightseeing in Mumbai.

Hi Calamia, thanks for the email Mares…as soon as I get a second I’ll reply.