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Last day in Tallinn and a rather slow pace on a sunny, warm day, soaking up the Baltic summer. First I set off just down the road to the KGB Prison Cells. Used by both the Russians and the Nazis. This poor little fiercely independent country was occupied from 1941 to 1991. By the Russians until 1944 then by the Nazis then by the Russians again. Their battles against each other raged across this country.

Surprisingly there is little mention of the Estonian Jewish peoples in all the reading I’ve done. From what I can gather the communists had a hand in their destruction in the early years of the war and then when the Nazis moved in of course those left (a little over 900 ) were exterminated and Estonia was declared ‘Jew Free’. I’m not sure if I’ve got this totally accurate but it is true that there is little of Jewish history noted around here. I think the Estonians were complicit in the extermination by the Nazis, not because they hated the Jews (so I’ve read), but because they saw the Jewish population aligned to the communists and they hate the communists above all else. I reiterate that I’m no historian and these are merely my musings.

So, the KGB cells…exactly what you’d expect. Horrific torture, people kept for days in cupboards I wouldn’t even fit in. Deprived of food and sleep and subjected to disgusting torture. There are more KGB/ Russian Museums but I’ve had enough. I’ve seen too much. It brought back memories of the Museum of Horrors in Budapest that upset me for ages. After this I went to the big Cathedral, St Olaf’s. Nothing to see here really, very austere, no iconaclasty, no nothing really. Scandinavia is the biggest influence.

Then down to Fat Margaret…part of the wall with an impressive medieval gate and canon tower. It had a café on the roof so I stopped there for my morning coffee which was pleasant. I walked back up the street and did a teensy bit of souvenir shopping so as not to leave here empty handed entirely. Then I went to a lovely little courtyard called the Masters Courtyard. Jam packed with tourists at the chocolaterie there but I espied a great little ceramic shop, all hand made and quite unique so I made a beeline for it and bought a small piece I liked.

Lunch…I found a quieter place and decided to be a little more adventurous in terms of my quest for Estonian food. This time I had Steak Tartare…on bread. Different.

I then went back to my starting point, the Tourist office and asked them to book me a taxi for the morning. As Taxis can’t come into the old city where I am I had to work out a meeting point and I thought it was safer if they did it for me. They obliged, so fingers crossed that it all works out to get me to the bus in the morning.

I’ve just returned from dinner and have to get packing. I found a lovely little Italian restaurant last night and decided to go back there tonight having given Estonian food my best shot. I could have had wild boar or grilled reindeer tonight in another restaurant, but couldn’t face it. Hopeless I know. Now I need to get packing and hope all goes well tomorrow getting to Riga. Love to you all.

I forgot to tell the kids that I went to an old, old pharmacy today. They had all the medicines they used to use hundreds of years ago. They included Powdered Unicorn Horn, Dried Toads, Bats Blood, worms in oil and viper fat. I’ll send photos to WhatsApp.

Saturday 29th July 2023 Tallinn

Today was to be a bit of a quieter day but it sure wasn’t. After my morning coffee to get me going I set off for the Upper Town called Toompea. I was so proud of my little legs as I ploughed up and up. I have to say using my stick is the best thing. It gives me security as I march onward and upward. I’m funny though, no-one takes as many photos as me because actually I’m looking for an excuse to stop for a moment. It’s fabulous really, you round a corner and there in front of you is the Alexander Nevsky Orthodox Cathedral. I’ve always wanted to go to St Petersburg but I think this will have to do for Onion Domes and a full on taste of Russia. Inside, of course, not too exciting although I think I’ve seen enough Cathedrals to be a bit blasé.

This area of Toompea is full of atmosphere with little laneways, heavenly houses and views across Tallinn and the Gulf of Finland. Around I slowly puttered feeling good that I was up there, until a woman passed me and said ‘oh look at you getting up here with a cane, good for you’. What she got in return was a tight grin that showed my teeth and a guttural sound that came out of me that could best be described as a snarl. Poor woman, she meant well.

This whole area is tourist Mecca. Lots of groups trooping through – mainly Germans, Italians, Indians and Chinese. Some Russians but as far as I can tell not too many. Its true to say that if you were Russian you wouldn’t feel too welcome. But this was ‘their cathedral’ after all.

More churches to pop in and out of, two fabulous viewing platforms to look down on the city (this time I did get up there under my own steam.). Towers, and ramparts from the city walls and the castle of old. Pretty good really. Then it was down, down, down. I came a different way with lots of stairs.

I deserved lunch then so I sat down and had (oh no not again) fish soup, egg salad on toast and the usually dark and grainy bread. I’ve decided the Estonian cuisine has its base in Scandinavia, that’s the best I can do in terms of finding the true Estonian food. Next, I had to cross the Town Hall off my list so down the stairs I went to see what this attraction had to offer me. Bit of a mistake really. Going up the massive stairs to get to the start of the exhibition was but the first hurdle. Then they lead you down these tiny staircases with steps so high I was totally sure I was going to kill myself or my hip. Anyway, long story short I made it and basically it wasn’t worth it!! I do often find that these lovely buildings are better viewed from outside.

Then I came home as it was the best place for a quick wee. I lay on the bed for a second and woke up an hour later…most unlike me! Out again I went to scavenge for food and found a most heavenly – guess what- Italian restaurant. Had a yummy risotto and wandered home.

Another day in Estonia and then its off to Riga and a whole new process of orientation.
Goodnight everyone XXX

We dressed up this morning in anticipation of a trip into town. The definition of dressing up is clean clothes and deodorant. We had coffee when we got in so we could access WiFi and then went our separate ways for an hour or so. Chris wanted to go to the James Joyce museum and I wanted to potter the shops to see what I could see.

Then we met up at one of my favourite restaurant in the whole wide world. I keep calling it Seppia di Nero but it isn’t….correction here: It’s Nero di Seppia. Each year I have a sublime meal at this place. Starting with a spaghetti with Burrata cheese, tuna ‘cavier’ and pistachios. I’m going to see if I can do this. Then I had a gorgeous fish, Orata, (I think it’s bream) done in a thinnish sauce which has a potato and butter base. I’m inspired to see if I can replicate some of this food but I think that inspiration might fade very quickly. Anyway, this restaurant never disappoints over 5 years now.

Trieste is a great city, fortunately under- represented on the tourist trail. It is, architecturally, very Austro-Hungarian (and there are lots of Austrians in town, living around us ) but with Italian flair and the sort of food I just love…fabulous seafood.

It has been a very hot day (36) and when we got back here we were in a right sweat, so we wasted no time in plunging into the water to cool off. If there is a complaint it is that the water is warm. You have to go out quite a long way to feel the real coolness.

So we sit out to watch another sunset, eat a bit and then off to bed. Tomorrow it’s Ljubjana for another day out.

But wait….paradise has another flaw. Every now and again we have seen a large rat scamper into the bushes but tonight a whole family chimed their death knell by coming onto our verandah and running across the railings. 3 or 4 large rats…yikes…we use the toilet and the shower out here, Chris sleeps downstairs with the doors open (I smugly sleep upstairs, no rats up there I reason as I close my bedroom door onto the upstairs verandah)…all doors now securely closed, such a shame. Anyway, they’ve now been reported for being so bold and won’t have long to live I’m sure. The ratman cometh!!

Spent the morning going for lovely swims and sitting on the rocks. It is so tranquil and such a treat. Then we went up to Soriano which is the nearest town to the house for our WiFi Cafe and to go to the bank and do a few chores.

So it was quite late when we decided to head up into the Caste for lunch. We went looking for a restaurant we went to last year but it was Monday and it was closed. Another and it was closed. Another and we were too late, the kitchen had closed. So we were heading off to the supermarket to get stuff to fend for ourselves but found a Fish Coop that kindly kept it’s kitchen open for us. Thank goodness!!

Did some shopping and then headed back here boiling and sweating. It was incredibly hot. So, of course, straight down and into the water to cool off. Breaking News this evening is that I had a real shower i.e. I used soap and washed my hair. We are slowly going more and more feral where swimming and washing the salt off is as far as the ablution goes. So it feels good to have done a decent clean up.

Tomorrow we have a booking at the restaurant we love in Trieste…Seppia Di Nero. Can’t wait for that so we’ll spend the morning in Trieste before lunch. Then Wednesday we are going into Ljubljana which I always enjoy. Beach day Thursday before we leave on Friday.

Another amazing breakfast at this great Hotel then off we went, wandering the town. First we found a restaurant for tonight and booked it…no more umming and arrring about that decision!!

Then we went via some interesting shops to Bosnian Muslim Biblioteka which told the story of saving these priceless old books from destruction during the war. An amazing story. From there to Ghazi Husrev-Bey’s Madrassa, a lovely, ancient school. The building was just lovely. We tried to go to the Mosque from there but we were a bit too late and it had closed for the middle of the day. So the Catholic Cathedral it was. Next to the Catholic Cathedral was Gallerija 11/7/95. This was truly amazing, an exhibition of photography telling the story of the Srebrenica Massacre of the Muslims by the Serbs, aided and abetted by the UN!!!!

It was confronting, horrifying and certainly a lesson for me. I learnt a lot about something I didn’t fully understand. Coming, as it did, for me, on the heals of the Polish Jewish holocaust story it was just, OMG, will we never learn. If you listen to Primo Levi the answer is no.

I had wanted to go to the Museum of Genocide and Crimes Against Humanity but really I couldn’t face any more.

We went back over the river to the Brewery for a light lunch and then did a bit more browsing before heading up back to the hotel to shelter from the afternoon sun. On the way we discovered in talking to people that the next 4 days here are a Muslim holiday and just about everything will be closed. So back at the ranch we reconsidered our plans. There is not much we could achieve in Sarajevo tomorrow if everything is closed. So Chris suggested we get ourselves back up to Croatia and go to the Plitvece Lakes area. Very spookily, as we were discussing this brand new idea we got an email from Mares asking us to look for the shoes she left in Plitvece 40 yrs ago….whoa!!! We both thought this was a sign from above and spoke to the hotel here about leaving a day early and booked a hotel at Plitvece. So that is what we are now doing.

Time has passed and we have recharged our batteries.  We got going again and Chris bought herself a water jug, we wandered a wee bit more then went to the restaurant we’d booked at. The first Bosnian meal I’ve really enjoyed (it always takes me a few days to adjust to the next cuisine). We had a lovely meal, sitting outside with our bottle of wine, then wandered home. Chris wanted to take a different route so I thought for sure she had got lost on the way when I got back up to the hotel a long way ahead of her, but she eventually arrived back hobbling, having been bitten by ‘something’. For the last hour we’ve been applying ice  and now it’s time for bed.

Unexpectedly we’re on the road again tomorrow…I always love a new adventure.

Whao!! Another very busy, very energetic day!! Our day started in Jajce with breakfast at the hotel and then setting off to explore the town. Here’s where the energy starts. A citadel sits way, way up on top of this really very lovely town. I said from the beginning, I’m not going all the way up there. So we wandered about the lovely town, a mixture of the old, the post war reconstructions, the graveyards surrounding the town and the shrapnel holes in the buildings. But overall a really idyllic little town set in the Bosnian Mountains.

So Chris disappears into a little museum and I wander a bit more, giving sideways glances to the path leading up to the citadel. Chris still hasn’t appeared so I start up the massive hill. Of course once I start there’s no stopping this stubborn wee heart and on and on I go. Still no Chris when I reach the top, so into the citadel I go (paying for my ticket, of course!). Then there’s the matter of getting up to the ramparts. Well what’s the point of coming this far without tackling the ramparts. Now, this really is hairy with old stone steps cut into the earth. So carefully I ascend. Not too bad!! I walk around the ramparts and then I have to descend. For the first time this really is scary. Anyway, long story short I’ve been to the highest point and survived the descent. Where is bloody Chris???? Down, down down I went to finally bump into her when I was nearly back on the road. I told her (with some glee) she had to do it and not to forget to get to the top of the ramparts then I went back to the hotel to wait for her and downed two bottles of water!!!

She was gone for AGES, but we finally hit the road for Sarajevo. The drive was relatively uneventful although I did have to pay to use Mrs Google to ensure we got to the hotel without hassle.

Our hotel in Sarajevo is on top of a gigantic hill, in fact I think Sarajevo is composed of large hills to ensure I return home fit (or dead), if nothing else. Our rooms are 2 flights up and mine has a lovely view over another of those cemeteries that surround these towns as a constant reminder of the devastation they suffered.

Off we went around the town for a bit of an ‘orientation’. We had been advised to go to a beer brewery as Chris wanted a beer. It was a great choice and we sat for a bit having a beer and a wine. We walked some more, found a supermarket to buy wine, found a place to have cevacceci (not sure how you spell that). Of course the eateries don’t sell wine, it being a Muslim country, so after we’d eaten we hot footed it back to the hotel to open our wine and sit on beds for a drink before we headed off to do our catching up, washing etc. We have 2 rooms here which is good to give us both a bit of space.

I’m sitting at my open window as night slowly descends on this town. More tomorrow.

Are you out there Calamia????

Another huge day challenging my poor sore feet and every other joint that likes to get a look in.

Firstly to my lovely coffee shop for a cappuccino ( It’s called Miaszsz on Plac Matejki). Then off to the meeting point for the tour. They collected us in the centre of the town and walked us to the bus. This was a bad sign as I was already being left behind. Onto the bus for the 1.5 hr ride out to Auschwitz I. I’m actually not going to go into details about the camps. It would all just be a cliche and I can’t say anything original. It was exhausting in every way, an assault on the senses. And just when you thought you were exhausted it was over to Birkenau for more walking. I will say that the thing about Birkenau is the hugeness, the perspective of the scale of the evil.

I was nearly done in at the end of it. I was lagging behind the young group but I managed it. The problem was that every time the guide stopped, I missed what was being said and they moved on as soon as I was with them so I didn’t get to stop for a minute. It was draining in every possible way.

A 10km day my fitbit tells me!! And no food. I did take water which was unusually sensible of me.

I got back and had to walk to my apartment. I found a nice restaurant near home and had a nice duck (Restaurant Jarema, also on Plac Matejki). Now home. First thing I did was to try to do the online check-in for tomorrows flight but it kept telling me it couldn’t find my booking and to ring them. I finally got through and they seem to have stuffed things up. I think it will be OK but they have to re ticket me and then refund me for my checked luggage and get me to pay again. I don’t understand this as they have mucked it up, not me!! I’m still in the middle of this and definitely won’t be happy until it’s all done.

I’ll do a bit of packing to take my mind off things.