Day 17 Sri Lanka. Tangalle to Galle

On the move again. Paradise Lost as we breakfasted and said goodbye to our little piece of heaven. Mind you the bill brought us rapidly back down to earth. Nonetheless it was a beautiful respite from the hustle and bustle that is Sri Lanka.

We had booked us a driver to take us to Galle but soon discovered that the lovely manager at Coco, Ninuka, was taking us himself. It was his day off!! Thats not to say we didn’t pay for the privilege but it was nice to have him take us. It was also the first ride on the Sri Lankan roads where we weren’t holding our breath most of the time!!

Along the way is the place where the stilt fishermen are found. Now, this is an ancient tradition of fishing and it is the iconic photo of Sri Lanka so of course you have to stop to see. But the reality is that it is now staged for the tourists. So, we walk onto the beach and the first thing we see is a group of Japanese Tourists; and the second is one of the fisherman asking us for money to take photos. So I handed over my hard earned (Rose took the role of observer) and a fisherman hopped on his stilt and pretended to fish. The really hilarious thing was that two Japanese tourists, who must have paid more than their fair share, also hopped on stilts and pretended to fish. Certainly not a great photo opportunity for us. But really it was priceless !! We stayed a few minutes and left…but needless to say I have my photo!!

We were dropped at our next place in Galle, Villa de 19, another homestay and a very considerable step-down from Coco. But you have to be satisfied with the level you can sustain and we are satisfied!!

Galle is so totally different from every other experience we’ve had in Sri Lanka. The whole town is UNESCO World Heritage listed and is really beautifully preserved, a bit like similar towns in Japan. Hand in hand with this is that we suddenly find ourselves well and truly back in the tourist scene. It is buzzing with white fellas from all over the world. This is a rude awaking from the towns we have been in since leaving Colombo where we were often the only foreigners. But it is quid pro quo because along with the foreigners comes all the tourist infrastructure. You can get coffee, gelato, wine and you can shop til you drop if thats your thing!!. There are lovely shops to poke your head into all over the place, restaurants with all manner of food and more importantly they are in beautifully preserved heritage buildings from the Dutch and Portuguese eras.

So out we went walking to get some wine and beer, home to drop them off then out again to eat at a classy restaurant called Fortaleza. That’s all great but at the same time expenditure has also matched the move into an upmarket world. We just keep telling ourselves to stay cool, its our last 3 days!!

Back to have a nightcap, a shower and hit the hay!!

Day 16. Tangalle

Another delicious breakfast, and another bright day ahead. After brekky we set off to walk into town because it was market day. Our plan was to explore the market and go to the bank then walk back. The heat us like a wall and I was very soon sweating like a pig. By the time we got to the market which seemed even hotter, the sweat was pouring down my back. However, I love a good market and this one was no exception. Bustling with people, every kind of fruit and vegetable known to man, and a very friendly atmosphere as well. Having perused the stalls and taken a few mandatory photos we started walking back passing more little stalls along the way including the man sitting with his one fish (in the stifling heat), cutting off little bits and selling them.

By the time we got back to our beautiful hotel my little straw hat was wet!!!! But we didn’t yet succumb to the desire to jump in the pool. We took a breath, sat under the fan to dry out and set off in the opposite direction to find a place for a bit of lunch. We were again stalked by a weird young man on his motorbike just as happened yesterday. We’re not sure what they’re up to but it is a bit unsettling in what is otherwise a very safe and friendly country. Anyway we found a place for a beer, a glass of red that had been open for maybe 6 months and a small bowl of chips to share…most uninspiring and then we walked back.

Really the best place to be is right here, we cant equal it anywhere in this town and it is such a relief to flop inside. On with the bathers and we headed poolside for a few blissful hours. Then its shower, more downtime and now preparing to enjoy our dinner. The food is so good that we can’t wait. They were trying to get me a lobster but I don’t think they were able to.

After dinner: No lobster but a most delicious Sri Lankan Curry and Rice. Fish for me and Chicken for Rose…it was really lovely. Bummer for Rose for desert…Banana Fritters. Absolutely yummy but while they weren’t looking Rose heaved a fritter from the dining room table out over the balcony onto the lawn. Immediately afterward a staff member walked down to the lawn…god knows if he trod on a fritter!!!

Goodnight!! XXXXX

Day 15. Sri Lanka. Tangalla

I guess I’m raving too much about this beautiful, elegant place we’re staying. We keep having to pinch ourselves that we landed so well on our feet. We sat up and watched the waves roll in as we had the best brekky EVER. It was eggs Benedict Sri Lankan style and so delicious. I must admit that not having curry, samosas and coconut pancakes for brekky has been a welcome relief.

After brekky we set off on a little excursion to a nearby blowhole that blew a little but certainly didn’t blow its head off. We went by Tuk Tuk and he waited for us while we waited for a number of blows. Then he took us to a nearby harbour where masses of fishing boats were unloading the catch for the day. I loved that, I love the colour and the excitement and all the fish, the weighing and selling, the noise and the slosh. Anyway, he then took us back to near our hotel so we could walk into town around the waterfront. That was lovely for a while but it got more and more deserted and for the very first time in Sri Lanka a weird guy sort of stalked us on his motorbike. He looked very dodgy and followed us, then stopped by the side of the road and waited for us. It is the only time we have felt unsafe so we headed up for the main road as quickly as we could.

Rose had found some place for us to go for lunch and we got in a Tuk Tuk to take us there. He took us off the beaten track, down by the beach through an area that in the high season would be bopping with hotels, beaches etc but now is deserted and definitely uninspiring. We got to where we wanted to go and it was no longer there so we paid the driver to take us back…a Tuk Tuk ride for absolutely nothing!!

He dropped us back in town and we went to find the Wine Shop/ Dive for some beers and a little bottle of Gin for our G&Ts at Happy Hour. Did I tell you that this place isn’t licensed to sell alcohol but they are happy for us to buy our own and bring it in. And they do supply some under the table like our lovely bottle of wine with dinner last night. For our Happy Hour they supply the Tonic, a lime and ice and we have our little hip flask of gin. FYI Sri Lanka has a law that says women are not allowed to buy alcohol…can you believe it!! Doesn’t seem to apply to white women though.

Anyway by this time we had chased a few red herrings and had firmly decided that our place was the very best place to be…by our very own pool in our very own colonial mansion. So back we came and that’s what we did…spent the afternoon plopping in and out of the pool having a delicious sandwich and the odd G&T while we watched a family of monkeys playing in the tree next to the pool. Yesterday a large Monitor sauntered past the pool. We had seen them swimming in the lake in Kandy and Rose was worried in case this one decided to take a swim!!

They have dinner planned for us …fresh calamari followed by fish for me. They are planning on getting me a lobster for tomorrow night!! The charge for the meal is $30 each. Hugely expensive for Sri Lanka but for us…3 courses for $30 is amazing. We are indulging ourselves for 3 nights. Its back to homestay in Galle after this. No pool and no gourmet food!! Though we understand there are lots of lovely restaurants and shops to explore.

Now its bed time, another divine dinner has been demolished although we are worried about our chef who has a very painful foot following a cut. Hope he lasts the distance for us!! Tomorrow is another day and our last in paradise!! In the distance there is what sounds very like the Call to Prayer but I understand it is the Buddhist version…I find it very soothing whatever the religion. My bed is covered in Frangipani and Bougainvillea petals.

Day 14 Sri Lanka. From Udawalawe to Tangalle. From safari to Luxury!

We were supposed to have a relaxing morning and then make our leisurely way down to Tangalle but we were both up and going very early and Rose got impatient, so after our last enormous and delicious breakfast with our hovering hosts, we asked for our driver to come early and he arrived at 10.30 in a tiny car that was just one step above a Tuk Tuk. We had said no air con because it’s cheaper but this was ridiculous. Our cases occupied the front seat and we jammed in the back. Rose had a seat belt this time but none on my side.!! These drives are definitely not for the faint hearted, but we both have steely hearts that are getting steelier each time we set out.

We came down to the coast to Tangalle. Now this is the hotel we changed at the last minute after feedback that the seas are rough and monsoonal so we decided we wanted a pool to make sure we got a few swims in before returning to winter. So we booked into the Coco Tangalle. Our compromise because it was more expensive was to only book one room.

But WOW, it is a fantastic old colonial home and we soon discovered we are the only people here so we asked about getting a second room at a discounted price. So…we now have a room each, the second at half price. My room is the ‘king coco suite’ which is MASSIVE with my own gorgeous balcony overlooking the pool and the ocean ( which is indeed thundering), My bathroom is the same size again with a palm tree growing out the roof in the middle of it…I’ll send a photo or you won’t believe it.

The first thing we did, of course, was don the bathers and head for the pool. A few swims and a drink and some wedges by the pool set the world right (not that it’s been wrong). I’m now sitting out on my balcony while Rose is luxuriating in a shower.

Our little bottle of gin has come in handy as we got some tonic and enjoyed our time watching the waves roll in and the monkeys (monkey actually) eating fruit from the ? mango tree just in front of us. We are now waiting to go in for dinner. We’re starving and the smells emanating from the kitchen are pretty good. It will cost us but its hard to avoid when you’re staying in a place like this!!

We are now just back from our most amazing and delicious meal. I had beautiful fresh tuna and Rose chicken, both cooked to perfection and utterly lovely. There is no doubt that this is our best effort yet. And to top it off they provided a complementary bottle of really nice white wine (when you know how much wine cost us in this country that is exceptional).

After a most yummy meal back to our rooms to find our beds covered in frangipani petals and the bed prepared for the night. They just can’t do enough for us…now we start to worry about what we should tip them…It’s off to bed now. I just need to remove my petals!

Day 13 Sri Lanka. On Safari Udawalawa

Up at 5am and off on Safari at 5.30am. The moral of this story is to keep your expectations low and maybe, just maybe you will be delighted. And such was the case.

Now, Safari Sri Lankan style is never going to be the Serengeti with its overwhelming and diverse array of grand African animals, but we had a fantastic safari for the elephants, crocodiles and bird life. We had spoken with other tourists on our way down here who described seeing maybe 4 or 5 single elephants. So when we saw herd after herd of up to 14 elephants with their babies we couldn’t have been more thrilled.

The other lovely thing is that we came across herds and we were the only people there sometimes for ages. The elephants were right by the jeep, sometimes a meter or less from us…Rose at one point thought one was going to try to kiss her and she leapt out of her seat!! Another time we saw a large herd bathing in a dam and playing with the very little ones, having a ball. Sometimes we’d find a herd and other jeeps would join us in a bit of a bustle but other times we had it all to ourselves. The driver was great and just turned off the engine for us to sit quietly amongst it. It really was a delight.

Incidental animals included Jackals, huge Monitors, Mongoose, Crocodiles and Water Buffalo. And especially for Hammy I made big effort to remember the names of the birds we saw which were another highlight of the trip…a Serpent Eagle, White Throated Kingfisher (superb), Green Bee Eater, Malabar Pied Hornbill (incredible, like a double-beaked toucan) and a truck load of Peacocks and Peahens. Our guide was very knowledgeable about different sorts of Sri Lankan birds and had a bird book on hand at all times so we knew exactly what we were looking at.

We were there for 5 hours and when we arrived back the guesthouse we had a huge breakfast waiting for us – samosas, stuffed rotti, friend lentil patties, dhal, hoppers, eggs, honey and coconut wraps!! etc. The other exciting thing for me was that I climbed up into the back of the truck, and back down without too much indignity!!

We were at a bit of a loss about what to do when we got back. The only other think around here is the Elephant Transit Home. Baby orphan elephants are kept here until they can cope back in the National Park. We got in a Tuk Tuk and went there for 12md feeding time. We weren’t going to go there but it was lovely to see all these baby elephants being fed. One elephant (that wasn’t a baby) had lost a leg and had a prosthesis. Rose was particularly intrigued by this.

We came back and went into the little town and got supplies of wine and beer and came back here to hang around for a couple of hours. Then we went to the poshest resort in the area for a drink, and walked back (a life threatening exercise with buses and tuktuks storming past) to await the meal supplied by our guest house. I must say, for my part, that you really can get sick of ‘curry and rice’!!! But they do it very well here.

After another delicious, massive meal cooked by our hosts its back and time for bed.

I have a friendly gecko living behind my toilet and during our meal fruits bats were flying around us…Rose wasn’t too keen on that idea. There is now something on the roof…probably a monkey or a squirrel.

Day 12 Sri Lanka. From Ella to Udawalawe

A leisurely breakfast this morning as our driver wasn’t coming until 11.30 to take us to Udawalawe. So we sat on our balcony (we moved to one balcony so they could clean a room). Plowed our way through yet another huge Sri Lankan breakfast, then paid our bill and went to meet the driver they had arranged.

My god if he was over 15 (and I assume he was), he didn’t look it. Rose naively asked where the latch for the seatbelt was…uhhhh no seatbelt, but then again we’re used to this. Today is the Festival of the Full Moon so a holiday here…no alcohol and no meat allowed, all shops closed other than a few selling street food stuff and the roads were PACKED!! In every town people were lined up in long queues to donate money and receive food so there was chaos in every single town we passed through. Drivers playing chicken with each other all the way there and people stopped everywhere to picnic, particularly when we got near the national park. Our driver wasn’t bad but it is always a relief when you get to your destination. We paid our $65 and off we went.

We are staying in the town at a place called Bright Sun Safari. There are 2 safari huts (in the town mind you) and we have one each. Another over-attentive host who stands on guard over us and is always rubbing my arm (there’s something about Sri Lankans and older people). We went into town to buy a bit of food and found some rather dodgy looking roti filled with curried vegetables which actually tasted delicious but fingers crossed!!!

We had our little bottle of gin bought yesterday but of course couldn’t find Tonic and somehow Gin and Lemonade isn’t quite the same!! Nonetheless we sat outside on our verandahs and waited for the accommodation to produce dinner. Again a dinner with the host hovering over us…but a delicious meal nonetheless.

Tomorrow we are being picked up at 5.30am to go safari’ing. Its true that once you’ve been to the Serengeti everything else is likely to pale but we’ll see. Goodnight for now.

Day 11 Sri Lanka. Around Ella

Firstly we just love our accommodation, Ella Grand View. We each have a spacious room and bathroom with the most fantastic view from the balcony and squirrels playing around us. This morning they served us what seems to be the norm, a massive breakfast of fresh fruit, eggs, toast, spicy dal and coconut, sweet pancakes and rotti. Amazing!! The hotel guy advised on places to see about the place and off we set after brekky, along the railway track to see the Nine Arches Bridges. It is 2 and a half kms along the railway through lush tropical forest area. We got to the bridge and joined the throng of tourists waiting to see the train come. Which we did!!

In the meantime we wanted to go to an iconic restaurant in the hills called 98 Acres, that overlooks Adam’s Peak which you can climb should you feel so disposed. There is a short route from the 9 Arches Bridge but it is a small, treacherous path up over the mountain. Rose scouted ahead and decided it wasn’t for me. The alternative is a circuitous Tuk Tuk ride down massively steep, winding roads that goes for about 10 kms instead of the 1.5 or so if you climb over the mountain…we paid for the privilege and Tuk Tukked.

So it was a light lunch in an amazing setting of mountains as far as the eye can see and Adam’s peak perched in front of us. We decided not to climb the peak, although I did try to persuade Rose to go by herself, fearing that I was holding her back from doing things she would normally do if it weren’t for me…but no, she was fine to admire the view from where we were.

We came back to our guesthouse wanting to just enjoy some downtime in our lovely accommodation. We sat on the balcony and had a drink and are now about to set out along the train track once again to go into town for an early tea so we can get back along the tracks before it gets dark.

Later: We’ve been in to town, pounding the tracks once again with (in my case) the utmost concentration. Every time I lift my head to greet someone I’m in jeopardy. But nonetheless we got in without misadventure. We had to go to a bank and then back to the same cafe which does seem to be the best one in town. We can get a drink there and I had a yummy curry although I can never eat it all and Rose was able to get a burger. We decided that as we’re moving on tomorrow to a very small place near the National Park, that we’d buy a small bottle of gin so we could have a G & T. Again we had to run the gauntlet of a dark, dingy cave full of men…we look so out of place…female, white tourists! Anyway we have a small hip flask of gin for our alcohol free venues.

Anyway mission accomplished and it was hit the train tracks again….always much harder after dinner I find but here we are back again. We’ve had another long chat on the balcony with our British neighbours here, who were advising us yesterday…and we are quite satisfied with our itinerary when we compare it to what others have been doing.

Now its shower time. We have a driver taking us to Udawalawe tomorrow…as always a relative of the manager. We’ll leave around 11.30…next stop a safari lodge. Ella has been great.

Day 10 Sri Lanka. From Kandy to Ella through tea country

Its been a long day but here we sit on our balcony surrounded by hills, a waterfall as our view with a wine and a beer…and at days end we’re happy!!

First thing this morning we were to be picked up at 7.30am by our Tuk Tuk driver, Janaka, but we couldn’t sneak out without the ceremonial breakfast and farewell which included photos and pledges to tell everyone how wonderful they were. And honestly by this stage we were used to them and they were used to us, including the fact of an old lady travelling with her young daughter. Nonetheless we were relieved when the Tuk Tuk huffed and puffed its way up their driveway with us and our luggage.

So…We are now in Ella after the really lovely train trip through magnificent tea plantations. It was a 6 hour train trip and after 6 hours even the most lush, beautiful scenery can become repetitive. But certainly you don’t get many more fantastic train voyages.

We got here and are staying in a great place overlooking a waterfall. We have a not-too-difficult trek into town along the railway line (Rose said she felt like she was in the film ‘Stand by Me’) and we headed straight into town to find a place for a drink and a bite to eat, the former taking precedence. It is a very backpacker oriented town, very trendy and the most geared to tourists we have come across to date. We had a meal and the walked back home along the train tracks, scrambling to get off the tracks to give the train right of way before we were killed.

But here we are now on our balcony with a most splendid view drinking the supplies we bought in town as priority one, as we understand there is a public holiday tomorrow and that no one is allowed to sell us any alcohol! We must endeavour to ensure we are strict in our rations!

Day 9 Sri Lanka. Exploring around Kandy.

A big morning was planned with our Tuk Tuk driver Janaka, but first we had to get through breakfast with Mrs De Silva hovering over us wanting us to eat. She had changed things a bit to entice us with the food and we did improve our performance somewhat. We hit upon the bright idea that we would tell her we wanted to take the huge plate of fruit out with us. Brilliant solution to our dilemma…then we could ditch it at our leisure. She still talked to Rose about me as if I wasn’t in the room. Such a strange feeling.

Anyway Janaka came and whisked us away. We went first to the Commonwealth War Graves site which, as always, was beautifully kept and told yet another part of the WWII story…the defence of Sri Lanka.

Then off we went on a long, long rise out to a monastery about 15km out of town, the Lankathilaka Temple, perched on a giant rock in the hills. It was divine, in a magnificent setting, with lovely frescoes and carvings. It is a world heritage site and its easy to see why. Then we drove back through this lush tropical countryside with rice paddy’s, fruit stalls and chaotic roads, interspersed with busy, bustling little towns.

Next stop was a Tea Factory where we were taken through the process of tea making. That was quite fun but I actually think I’m nonethewiser after the tour which culminated in a free cup of tea and the expectation to buy. Which of course we did…really??? What are we going to do with a large bag of tea??

Then to the Kandy Botanical Gardens where he dropped us for 2 hours while he went home for lunch. I must admit that they were lovely but foreigners have to pay $15 each to get in which hurt a bit…free for Sri Lankans!!! Sadly its not hard to tell the difference. So we wandered through the gardens which did not disappoint. The orchids were to die for.

We were picked up and we wanted to do some shopping in preparation for tomorrows train journey and we wanted some alcohol. I tell you in this country you feel like a criminal. Our driver took us to a place to go to the supermarket that had an alcohol section underneath. The only people buying alcohol are dodgy looking men, its all behind barriers and your Tuk Tuk driver is looking at you with disappointment in his eyes.

We came home and now have hours to wait until we have our sacrificial meal cooked by Mrs Regini De Silva. What can we say, the homestay set up doesn’t suit us!!!

Back from our homestay meal and we both have to say that the food was fantastic. One of the best curries we’ve had, they sat with us talked but the hubsand (a dentist Dr Sena De Silva) is interesting and informed and I have to say Rose lifted to the occasion and was the life of the party. So we’ve paid, we have our Tuk Tuk coming at 7.30 in the am for the train to Ella. Kandy has been a great city.

For now goodnight!!

Day 8 Sri Lanka. Around Kandy

A bit of a lazier day today which is something of a relief really. But first we had to get through breakfast with the strange woman who just won’t leave us alone. She had prepared a massive breakfast that we had no way of even getting half way through and sat just talking like this….now, remembering that I am sitting last the table and I’m conscious, awake and generally talk more or less sense, she’d say to Rose “that’s a very comfortable dress your mother has on”, or “you are booking accommodation in Tangalle, you’ll have to make sure it’s very comfortable and convenient for your mother”. It is hilarious really and in fact the things Sri Lankans say to us could be my next theme…they just come out with things that are so out of context.

Today at lunch the owner of the restaurant just popped out to Rose “You look like a kick boxer”. I nearly inhaled what was in my mouth it was so funny. Rose just looked up and said “what do you mean?” with a flash of the black-eyed look. To which he mimed a strong arm body builder pose! He’s lucky to be alive in fact.

Last night when I said our host had bailed Rose up on her way to bed it was to say will her mother call out if she needs something in the night…or no, better she calls you and you will call us…..what??????

Anyway I digress. We got through breakfast. (She is virtually forcing us to have an evening meal with her tomorrow night. Something we look forward to with dread!! ) We had asked our lovely Tuk Tuk man to come for us at 9.30 and he arrived promptly to take us off to the Temple of the Sacred Tooth. That was Buddhist chaos. Off with the shoes and join the throngs, and I mean throngs, of Buddhists come to pay homage to Buddhas tooth. Climbing the stairs being jostled on all sides by worshippers who just see us and all the foreigners, as being in their way. There is no polite standing back here, you were hemmed in on all sides and pushed and jostled as people tried to get past. That took some time to manage and the bare feet don’t take too kindly to it all.

(The call to prayer has just started up as I write. Not many Muslims in the town but they are certainly a ‘presence’.)

Anyway keep on track and back to the Buddhists. We finally got out of there after going through a second, new, shrine and a small museum. We then went off walking partially around the lake that sits in the centre of this town. These massive iguana type lizards swim in the lake and live around it which kept us fascinated for a while.

Then off to find some shops to potter in but not too much by way of tourist infrastructure means that there aren’t many cute shops to keep you entertained. It was starting to rain so we went to get a coffee in one of those touristy shops. Then off for lunch at the Old Empire Cafe which is a quirky/ trendy little cafe. Whilst I said Sri Lanka was not huge on the tourist infra- structure there are definitely more tourists in Kandy than in other towns so there are some of those creature comforts we all come to know and love e.g. coffee.

Back to the lunch experience. I do seem to be all over the place today. Rose is always so meticulous about what she orders and worries about me ordering potentially life threatening things like salads. So she ordered a burger and I ordered a salad (we both need a break from Chicken curry and rice every now and again). Half way through her extra-safe-to -eat burger Rose pulls a massive black hair out of her mouth. She nearly vomited and lunch was all over red rover for her. I told our man about the hair and he was mortified…didn’t charge us and kept bringing more food to replace it. That turned out hilariously too as he brought Rose some roasted cashews that she didn’t want, but she had to pretend she was eating them so she found a piece of wrapper in her bag and started to transfer the nuts into the bag…this didn’t go smoothly with nuts splaying all over the place. Maybe only funny at the time but it was hilarious.
We finally extracted ourselves from the restaurant and wandered off through the market area. We found one of those dodgy dives behind bars that sell alcohol and bought some beer and even some wine at a reasonable price. With this surreptitiously stored in a bag we got in a Tuk Tuk to take us home up the hill. By some miracle he nearly found the place. We only had to walk a short distance at the end.

A couple of hours rest now. This ‘homestay’ experience has put the wind up us and we are busily changing/ upgrading our accommodation. Also in response to feedback along the way that has alerted us to the beaches/ocean down south in Tangalle being still in Monsoonal mode so not very swimmable. We cancelled our booking and found a place with a pool so that at least we can get a swim or two in one way or the other.

We’re now off to meet Bob from Bendigo for a Kandy experience from the perspective of a lovable alcoholic. That promises to be fun…I’ll fill you in soon!!

We’re back and yes we did have a lovely evening. We’ve both fallen for Bob, he’s a lovely man with such a well of loneliness. Anyhow that aside we met him back at the Royal Bar and had a drink. I was the sensible one tonight. No bottles of wine, that was definitely not sustainable. I had a G&T. Then we moved on to the Queens Hotel…definitely THE Raj hotel of Sri Lanka. At least it was once, it is now tired and rather worn looking but it still had that feel about it. Every hotel has the World Cup playing on the big screen…in this case projected from a little, old telly through a projector onto the screen…some genius had worked that one out! Then Bob took us to his favourite Indian Restaurant and we had a delicious meal. Then next door to that is Bob’s other favourite pub, the Victory so he and Rose raced in there for the final night-cap while I fixed up the bill (Bob had paid the rest of the night) and then went in to meet them and drag Rose away to meet our waiting Tuk Tuk driver. We were really sad to say goodbye to him.

While all this was happening we didn’t even realise (having dinner) that the heavens had opened so we had to charge through the rain to the meeting point. And then a very dark, very wet and very hairy Tuk Tuk ride back up the hill. It did occur to me that our number might be up this time…but obviously it wasn’t.

Our Tuk Tuk driver is taking us for a half day tour outside Kandy tomorrow for the mandatory $25. But that will be another story.