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Veliko Tarnovo – Day 2

What of today. Such a busy day!! But very satisfying as I’ve seen everything I really wanted to see which is a bit of a coup. At 8.30, after a very ordinary hotel breakfast, I decided I was going to have to try to get to Arbanasi, a small hilltop town near here with some amazing frescoes and old ottoman houses. So I decide to get a taxi out there…very cheap here in Bulgaria….I get the hotel to call me a taxi which comes and then there is a lot of consternation about how I’m going to get back. No taxis hanging around in this village waiting for me. I negotiate with the taxi driver to come back for me in 2 hours but the girl from the hotel is looking very worried as she waves me goodbye!!

Anyway it worked perfectly, was just arriving at the pick up point when the taxi drove in. And the effort to get there was really worth it. Amazing vivid frescoes again just covering the churches I went to…ancient frescoes that take your breath away and are truly amazing. Also an old ottoman house that was great too. Arriving in the town though is the usual Bulgarian experience. No signs (at least not in the Roman alphabet) and no-one to ask so I wasted half an hour just trying to work out where I was and how how I got where I wanted to go. People often just ignore you if you ask them a question. But once you find one of the sights, which I did, you’re OK because the people working with the (scant) tourists are tuned in and helpful and you can get directions from one to the other…very helpfully given.

So I was off and running and blown away by what I saw which, to some extent, I was unprepared for. At the most impressive, the Church of the Nativity, I was overrun by a group of pompous poms with their guide. That was a pain in in the arse except that they had a very informative guide and what option did I have but to listen to him. He was referencing and referring to Boyana Church which was most interesting. But then I trundled off by myself again…turn right, then left, then you’ll see an arch, don’t go there but there is a road after in just follow up the hill….long story short I felt very pleased with myself as I headed back to the square to meet the taxi and even more pleased with myself when he and I turned up together on cue.

He dropped me back in the centre of V.T. and I felt I deserved a coffee and a gelati which I duly consumed. Then I somewhat stupidly decided I was going to find a bridge to go across to the Museum on the island formed by the river running through the town. I was doing this completely blindly and decided I just had to go downhill!! Well after a mammoth downhill trek (remembering that everything that goes down has to ultimately come back up), found I was completely on the wrong track altogether but enjoyed the walk immensely through the winding, cobbled streets of V.T with its ancient houses. All good but then up I had to come and work out how to get where I wanted to go. Ask a few people…ignored but then find someone who helps, and when they are helpful they are fantastic, found my way to the island, only to discover it isn’t the museum I’m actually wanting but the State Art Gallery. I’m ashamed to say that I just didn’t feel up to another art gallery so gave it a miss, having spent a few hours getting myself there. As I said it was a great walk though.

What next…a very late spot of lunch then back to the hotel for a brief respite and toilet break ( hadn’t been since before breakfast so that was welcome), the girl at the hotel was absolutely delighted to see me, said she was very worried and I think she thought she’d never see me again (and I hadn’t paid the bill).

Then I had one more mission for the day to get myself to the Holy Church of the 40 Martyrs. From my hotel there was a signpost that said 400M…easy peasy…they did forget to mention that the 400M was vertical!! Down I went and just as I arrived so did the bus of English tourists from the morning. I could have cried but I pulled myself up, decided to listen to their guide again and learn a bit! Which I did then I pulled myself back from whence I had come and they sailed past me in their bloody bus!! They then went up to the Tsarevets Fortress and I was so glad I’d been there the night before. I must say although painfully British (when did you do your finals at Oxford, oh I was rather before you, but did you have Professor xx for history, so did I !!) some of them were so plucky, quite elderly and disabled but getting themselves around, I did admire them. As I was heading off for the uphill trek I thanked their tour guide for a very informative free tour…he said it was OK because it was accidental and I wasn’t freeloading…oh truly, certainly didn’t get the Aussie sense of humour!!

Now, finally, you know how I’m always whinging about the Nanny state in Victoria. Well one aspect of that I have to say I will appreciate when I get home…that is the amount of dog shit in the streets. One other hazard I have to look out for ( and there are many) and which prevent me from having any idea of the scenery around me as I walk around with eyes firmly on the footpath)

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Last day in Istanbul

Last day in Istanbul, sadly! There is always a bit of trepidation as I launch into a new country, wondering what it will bring. Wondering how I’ll manage it all. But today was nice. Istanbul is now so familiar and easy to get around. So I set out and made my way back to my favourite haunts…Up to Istikial Cadassi, through the fish markets just pottering. Then to a couple of Museums Id missed last time and wanted to see. One of them has a terrific exhibition of Street art that was rather wonderful. Then back to my favourite restaurant for lunch and had my yummy goats cheese salad with pomegranate dressing…delicious. Then i sauntered back down the massive hill to the tram and back to Sultanahmet. Then I decided to have one last wander through the Grand Bazaar. The first day I saw some earrings I really liked and have tried to find the place again each time I’ve walked through the Bazaar. Thought Id have one last try but once again couldn’t find the place for love or money. Every time I go to the Bazaar I get lost and have to walk around endlessly working out how to get where I’m going…but all enjoyable.

I came back to the hotel about 4 and spent the next couple of hours trying to figure out my photos and how to get a few up on Facebook. I think I finally achieved this but rather indiscriminately I fear.

Anyhow then I took off back to my favourite restaurant for tea and had stuffed mussels (the best thing in all the world), followed by fried anchovies…yummy.

Chris told me about this restaurant, it is fabulous but in a bit of a dodgy area for an after dark solo walk, not that Ive ever felt in the least bit threatened. Showered now and getting myself organised for fairly early departure tomorrow.

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Back in Istanbul

Sorry i didn’t post last night but to be honest was feeling a bit down at the end of a long day yesterday. Went out to forage for food and when I got it I couldn’t eat a bite, felt sick for some reason and a bit blue. No reason for this, just tired and getting back to Istanbul kind of let me just collapse for a brief moment. i also felt overwhelmed by the thought of reorganising myself to move on, catching up on all the things i needed to do, including making decisions about where to go next, sorting out a ticket etc etc….no blowouts for the last 3 weeks so basically I decided to have one!!

But…having said that yesterday wasn’t a bad day at all and i was really excited to get back to Istanbul, god I love this city!! One of the things I’ve done since getting back is to get my brand new macair out and it so much easier to type etc. I’m very glad I’ve got it though I haven’t fully worked things out yet!

9 hrs on the bus yesterday but surrounded by people looking after me all the way. The surprise of that trip is that I had no idea that the bus took the ferry across the Bay of Marmaris. That was a surprise and a treat that i loved.

The bus company have a servis bus that is supposed to take you into town. However this ’servos’ bus man wasn’t so customer focussed and dropped me and another guy way away and said get on the ‘bus’! The other guy was a gorgeous young man from Lebanon…a banker!!!!….so together we muddled through. Fortunately I knew about the tram and had my ‘Istanbulkart’ so I was able to work us out, get us on the tram and walk to my hotel (after I ditched the poor lovely young man from Lebanon).

I arrived back at Levni which was so nice, they are such lovely people and greater me like a long lost friend. That was so nice and Istanbul feels so comfortable.

As I said I was in a bit of a state as I had no idea what I was going to do next. But as I’ve put in things in place I’ve settled. My big dilemmas was where to next…stop in Plovdiv or go through to Sofia…had to sort ticket and accommodation so decisions needed to be made. As I lay awake last night it occurred to me that my dilemma was about a place I could leave my case etc. Bulgaria doesn’t lend itself to this so once I’d worked that out the rest fell in to place. I’m off to the furthest point first i.e. Sofia and then I’ll take all my luggage when I head off to Plovdiv etc, making my way up to Bucharest without going back to Sofia.

So…have a bus ticket…10 hours but get it over in one day I say and have now sorted accommodation. 3 nights in Sofia which will somehow have to include Rila Monastry and Boyana Church….hopefully it will become clear how I’m going to manage that when I’m there. Any insights gratefully received!!!

Having sorted all that out i was free to enjoy some more of Istanbul. Intermittent rain today so didn’t get too adventurous. I really wanted to go to Kariye Church/ Museum. The only way to get there was by taxi so a hugely expensive day but it really was amazing. You know my favourite thing in all the worls is mosaics and this was mosaic heaven…mosaic and fresco heaven actually. only about 150 photos!!! My next trick now that I’ve got the computer going is to download my photos!!

Then I went and had fun exploring the Grand Bazaar, hadn’t really given it much attention so I enjoyed that. Back hotel early to get my IT sorted as best I can. Have tried to Skype but can’t get it right time wise so have to rely on Hammy for my touch base family member being in the same hemisphere!!

The Meuzzin is in full flight as I type…I just love it, so reliable!!

This missive more than makes up for none last night.

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Day 2 in Izmir

Another missive from me. A nice and very pleasant day in Izmir today. I set off this morning to see the ‘other side’ of my virtual division of Izmir into 2. This side sort of suits me better, it contains the bazaar and a smattering of history.

After a coffee at a nearby patisserie ( and I won’t mention the little treat that went with the coffee), I set off a lovely ‘square’ with a lovely little mosque and a magnificent clock tower. It had a lovely feel, full of characters including gypsies selling feed for the masses of pigeons. So sat there for a while and watched the world go by.

Then I wandered off through the bazaar, to see the Agora. I was a bit unenthusiastic about this because I didn’t think it was that exciting…..wrong!!! It was really fantastic. You could just feel the bazaar of Roman times, it was amazing and beautiful ruins. I wandered around there for ages.

By then it was time to forage for food so back down to the bazaar. It is such a nice, friendly bazaar, without any hassle really. I struck gold here. When I was walking up I went through the fish area which looked fabulous. On the way back they were cooking!! So, for lunch beautiful little sardine kebabs. Literally sardines cooked freshly on skewers. You will remember how much I love a good sardine so I was very contented. They took delight in introducing me to a local drink Salgam something. Tasted like vinegar but I persisted to their delight!! I was joined at my table by some lovely Turkish women so it became quite a nice social little lunch break.

Couldn’t resist another visit to a Mosque, they are lovely!!

Then took my book out to the foreshore and just read for a while, that was nice and relaxing.
Off to Istanbul tomorrow, I’m really looking forward to getting back there, it is such a great city. Will arrange my transport to Sofia or Plovdiv as soon as I get there. Can’t believe that the Turkey sojourn is nearly over….what a truly wonderful country.

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Izmir – Day 2

You’ll probably be relieved to know this will be a brief one tonight.

I really like Izmir but it is mainly new and in many ways reminds me of Melbourne. Walking along the waterfront on a Saturday is a bit like St Kilda. Promenade packed with people and cyclists. Cafés all along it. So today I just walked. I walked in the trendy shopping and cafe area mixed in with busy chaotic areas. Tree lined streets, some parts cooler than cool, other parts busy and very Turkish. Even had a cappuccino today!!

Nice lunch…sea bass cooked with thistle…delicious. Back to the hotel for a shortish break then out again tonight to forage for food once again.

Tomorrow I’ll do the other side of town. I’m looking forward to getting back to Istanbul. Monday is a 9 hr bus trip, that won’t be too much fun.

More word tomorrow.

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Izmir

Tonight’s missive is from the bar of the hotel overlooking the water of Izmir bay.

Very pleasant but I feel a bit out of place in my thongs and grubby dress…it’s a posh hotel. As I said I’ve been pretty good budget wise and living within my means but the last 3 places I booked something got into me and caution has been thrown to the wind a bit…then you end up feeling like an inferior scruff. Not that anyone suggests that of course.

Well, where did I end up last night. Was just about to go out to dinner. Next thing I know one of the managers of the hotel insists that I go hone to her house for dinner. Honestly they are so sweet. She lived in a small, totally ancient house and under the house are thousands of years of human life. It was amazing. Her husband had cooked up a storm and had even gone out and bought a bottle of red wine!! So that was a treat.

It really is so true that there are treats in unexpected places when you travel alone because things like that don’t happen if you are more than one.

So left my lovely little hotel this morning. Walked down to the train station and for the first time tried out the train system. That was a slight shock. No reserved seats here and a bun fight as everyone pushed ahead to grab a seat. Not me!! Oh shit I was standing and this was an hour and a half ride. But this is Turkey and it wasn’t too long before a lovely man gave me his seat. That was lovely!!

Arrived in Izmir. Not too far to my hotel thought I and off I trotted. My little case is a treasure and keeps rolling along over cobbles, broken roads etc. but my bloody bag over my shoulder is quite another story. Everything but the kitchen fucking sink is in it. Now I’m just loving Goldfinch to pieces but god will I be glad to finish it. It weighs a goddam ton and combined with the LPG, camera, wallet of preciousness, purse, camera etc. all miraculously stuffed in my bag it nearly kills me. A lovely Australian tourist I ran into said when you think of the cost of some things, we made very bad decisions for very little money…brought to mind Egypt, heh Ham!! Anyway I got the the hotel and the concierge guy found it very hard to believe I had a booking. He did laugh when I said I knew I didn’t look as if I did!

Well wouldn’t you know it, my first mission was to get a bus ticket to Istanbul for Monday. So I enquired where the booking offices were….back up near the Train Station. So I took a deep breath and back I went. Much easier with Goldfinch happily resting in the hotel!!

Then I spent a lovely afternoon strolling around the Bazaar. Eating!!

Now my ‘little problems’ have settled, I’ve got a terrible desire to eat!! So first a pide type yummy thing with everyone stopping to chat to me in whatever language they could muster. Then a most delicious fresh, homemade ice cream. Whenever I eat ice cream I have Chris in my ear. She would have been ashamed of the gelati I was eating in Anatalya. All brightly coloured and fluffed up….not the thing at all!!

Different kettle of fish today…what Chris would be pleased about is what I learnt in the process of getting my diploma!

The thing about Izmir is that it seems to be such a mix. People who would be absolutely at home in Brunswick or Fitzroy Streets combined with the fully traditional. It has a reputation for being ver liberal and very ‘cool’.

So after the bazaar and my pide + ice cream I made my way down to the pier and a just too! too cool bar. I had a couple of glasses of wine at Fitzroy Street prices and a tapas dish (they even asked if I would like my red chilled or room temperature..wow)..more money than I’ve spent in the last week in that pleasant little sojourn. You know how I said there were advantages of travelling alone…well there are also times when I would desperately love to have you (or a friend) with me and times like that are those times!!

Back to my swish hotel and being vaguely out of place. Came down to the bar to have a glass of wine ( straight out of the fridge and very oxidised) to write my daily missive that keeps me feeling in touch with you all.

This is a boomer and will bore the pants off everyone.

And I forgot to say that one of the disadvantages of wearing thongs about is getting cigarette butts caught between your toes, you can imagine what that does to me as I desperately try to remove them!!

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Ephesus

So I’ve finally seen Ephesus…it’s really been the big one in terms of ‘roooons’. So set off this morning and basically took my time, mainly the mission was to dodge around the tour groups, waiting for them to pass and then darting in before the next lot took over. How glad I am not to be in a tour group though…I feel good just to wait patiently, let them go by. So beside the number of tour groups, I just loved it. Hammy said it was the one place where you could really imagine the life all around you and it’s so true. Just wonderful really. I got a taxi there up to the top gate, walked down to the bottom gate then got a local bus, dolmas, back to town. Wondered around got a delicious Pide for late lunch then back to my hotel, into the bathers and a swim or two to cool off. Now glass of wine in hand I’m writing this email before heading into town for dinner. Last night the guy from here took me to a restaurant which was totally delicious so no point in mucking around, I’ll go back there tonight.

The guys here are telling me I shouldn’t be going off to Izmir tomorrow, they say it’s not a nice city….still I’m locked in now and shall see for myself I guess.they are also advising me to get the train not the bus because the train station is central and the bus station is way out…so why not?? Haven’t experienced the train yet so might as well give it a go.

Time in Turkey is now down to one week…I’ve left myself a bit short in Bulgaria and Romania but actually think Turkey deserves far more time, with a car I reckon….so much to see in this magnificent country.

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Antalya Day 2

Today I set off after brekky to the Antalya museum. This entailed negotiating a tram! All such things are an achievement in my book. On the way I found the office for the bus bus to Pammukale and bought a ticket.

The museum was gorgeous and I got on the tram and came back. Explored a bit of Antaya, found a chaotic and really wonderful Restaurant for lunch….had a beautiful pide with that yoghurt drink they keep insisting I have. That was great. A bit more wondering and then thought I ‘fuck it’….back to the hotel and into the pool for a swim….that takes more of my courage than most other things. Have relaxed from 3-6pm and will trot off again now for food!!

This place is full of tourists….there must be a happy medium somewhere on this earth!!

Aussies here loudly crowing about North beating Cats…and lamenting about Abbot declaring us on high alert….god he’s a dickhead (Abbot I mean)…the Aussies were quite nice when I told them they’d given me more information about what’s going on than I’d had in weeks.

Off now to find a place to eat and purchase a bottle of vino!!!

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And now Selcuk

Another one of those hot and wearying bus days although only a short bus trip, after such a big day yesterday and more exploring when I got to Selcuk this afternoon I’m tired to say the least. But I’ve landed on the tired old feet with this hotel. I think it’s my favourite to date. In amongst ancient houses (the guy was describing sifting through artefacts when they were building….older than Ephesus), step out of my door and there is the pool. And best of all…my mark of a great hotel, they’ve sold me a very nice bottle of red, best yet. By far. Set me up with my bottle in a gorgeous sitting area, told me to ask for another whenever I wanted, bottle that is!! Contrast this the place in Pamukkale where they sold wine for 3x what you could buy it for two doors down in the little supermarket, then had a big sign saying you weren’t allowed to bring food or wine onto the premises. Well obviously a deviant such as me got around that one but there was not sitting around the pool with your glass of wine!!

So back to the travels. Usually when I go on my bus trips from town to town I’m absolutely the only tourist. Today in Pamukkale the bus filled up totally with tourists. It stopped in Denizli and picked up three Turkish people. This is tourist Central this part of the world. Hotel names like Boomerang, Wallaby, Austn and New Zealand Hotel etc. I think this speaks mainly to the town’s proximity to Gallipoli. You will be relieved to know my hotel is the Ayasoluk.

I’m Still obsessed with the packs of Russians but have heard quite a few Aussie accents around me as well.

As I only have 2 nights here I set off straight away exploring the little town and the ‘roooons’ all around me such as the church of St John….have now seen where he’s buried…this entailed another ‘up to the castle’ walk in the blazing sun…I’m becoming a bit of an expert at this!!! Followed by another ancient mosque…I actually love the old mosques. Then into town but not for too long, needed to rest my weary bones. Now the misens are calling, which always gives me a sense of comfort.

Later I’ll wander off into town to eat something and tomorrow it’s Ephesus….I’m looking forward to that but also looking forward to the next stop which is 3 nights in Izmir…this will dramatically dilute the tourists and get me back to normal. I like a bit but not to be overwhelmed!!

More tomorrow.

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Pamukkale Part 2

Back at base camp after another energetic / exhausting/ exhilarating day.  After breakfast the owner of the hotel said he’ d run me up to the top gate which was terrific and I must admit I was hoping he’d do. Then beginneth the 5 or so km walk back to Pamukkale. Most of the day was spent in the ancient Roman/ Greek/ Byzantine city of Hieropolous. Most of that was great as I streets fairly early and there was hardly anyone about. I was loving pottering around, exploring by myself. But as I got closer to the action there were hoards of people. I climbed up to the Roman Theatre which was wonderful, not such a bad climb but by this time it was the midday sun so a bit challenging. The most challenging thing though is coping with insane Russian tourists…they make the Germans pale into insignificance!! I decided I was going to make a field study of them rather than get insanely mad! So I observed…and what did I mainly (and reluctantly) find myself observing….. breasts!!!

What is it with these Russian women? They are in a tour group in bikinis… all over 45 (to be generous) with massive breasts bulging out of skimpy bikini tops…I couldn’t take my eyes off them so had hours of entertainment!!! Then I thought I’d take photos of breasts….. this would be my theme. But it didn’t take me too long to realise there was the possibility of arrest in this idea so I desisted (do have a couple of photos though:) )

All that was good. I’d brought my bathers along for the ride in case I felt enticed by the Ancient Pool but got there, had a look, checkers full of Russian breasts and thought….nah!! Also nice you’ve been in an Icelandic Mineral Spa there’s nowhere to go from there!
Then it was the Travertines… a disappointment for me, mainly because they were crowded to a ridiculous degree, they were treacherous in that I spent the entire time scared I was going to slip and I think I’d seen so many photos there was nothing to excite the senses.

Climbed all the way down… which was exhausting on little tired legs, always tense to ensure no slips. Once again I wished for the steadying hand of my troupes… but just had myself to rely on!!
Staggered back to the hotel 5 hrs later with only enough energy to get the bathers on and fall into the pool.

I’m now showered, have had a glass of wine and am back to being in fine fettle.

Another day for the annuals of time. Off to Selcuk tomorrow for 2 nights. Ephesus is the main sight to conquer.