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Last day in Trieste

I decided to write this on my computer even though it won’t be sent til we finally get back to Roma tomorrow night. Its so much easier. The index finger is having a melt down.

Last day in in paradise today and we had to pack so kept the activity to Trieste. We set off in the morning for Trieste. As we were driving around looking for a park we saw our favourite restaurant, Nero di Seppia, so we thought ‘why not’ one last taste of the most delicious seafood pasta in the world (tuna eggs). so we booked in there, found a Wifi cafe to send emails and talk to Rosa then went to the Museo di Sartorio. This was a fabulous Museum which was the house of the Sartorio family who were major players/ merchants in Trieste. We had an hour to fly around the museum and get ourselves to lunch.

While inside the heavens opened. Its been a hot day, very muggy and hot when the sun comes out, then it clouds over and rains, then the sun comes out. When we left the Museum it was still pouring so when we arrived at the Museum we looked like drowned rats. We had a last delicious meal and then had some chores to do in Trieste. I had to go to Wind (like Telstra) and find out why my 3G wasn’t working. Sorted that, got the ipad working again, met up with Chris who’d gone off to buy some things. Went to the supermarket to get clams and spaghetti for tea tonight and came back to the shack.

By then the sun was out and we both went for our last swim. Heaven. Then some attention to packing. I was so anxious about getting the case up and out of here that I packed and took it up to the car tonight. Hopefully it won’t be stolen and its a huge weight of my shoulders. It wasn’t so hard and only took me 10 mins or so to get it up so I’m hugely relieved. It isn’t quite finished yet but the rest I can get up in a bag in the morning and repack if needs be.

Chris is cooking The Last Supper, the mozzies are biting and all is well. Tomorrow a Roma!!

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Mainly of Croatia

There is now absolutely no internet connection at all. No emails for days now. Being totally cut off is definitely one of my least favourite things. At least I’m busy adventuring to take my mind off it.
Briefly back to Sunday which was another heavenly day in Paradise spent sitting about and swimming in the morning, then out to lunch at our favourite seafood place for lunch. We were so inspired by their delicious Mussel dishes that we stopped and bought mussels on the way home and Chris made a delicious Mussel soup again for dinner at night.

Yesterday it had clouded over and we set out to explore the Istrian Peninsula. We crossed over into Croatia…a real border crossing, not like going back and forward into Slovenia. Here we explored beautiful small hilltop towns. It is ‘Tuscany in Croatia’ with beautiful towns perched on every hill, olive trees, vines and mountains. Could even top Tuscany with its slightly more rugged feel. Only pain in the neck was having to change money. You get so used to using the Euro everywhere.

Firstly we went to a lovely little town called Buzet, had a drink there to try the Croatian beer Favorit. Wandered about briefly then headed for a tiny, tiny nearby town called Salez.to find a stone, carved pillar called The Pillar of Shame where they used to chain people in the Middle Ages to shame them in front of the village if they’d done something wrong. Finding that was an adventure in itself. After many wrong turns and only by trusting in Jane our beautiful GPS, did we eventually find the town. It was absolutely straight out of medieval times, unchanged, in disrepair, cows stabled in the ancient stone buildings, potatoes piled up in another, and no one to be found as we walked through, but you could feel the eyes on you. This was definitely off the tourist trail. Eventually an old Croatian woman appeared. We showed her a picture of what we were looking for and she burst into a string of Croatian which left us none the wiser. To cut a long story short we found it by following another road and really purely by chance, when we had given up and were leaving.

We then headed off to find another old frescoed church in Draguc. Another beautiful town, of the main trail with a tiny little old church sitting out overlooking the valley and a lake. Inside the church was completely frescoed and so beautiful. There were a group of Austrians also looking at it. They obviously belonged to a choir and they burst into song (sounds like Sound of Music!!) but actually it was rather magnificent…even though it sounds humourous as I write it.

There was a lovely little tavern place in this town where we got a plate of prosciutto and cheese, and of course the obligatory wine, and sat in a very unsophisticated little town square enjoying a little break.

On we went to another very small town, Beram, to see yet another frescoed church. This time we had to find a woman in the village and pay her to come in the car with us to open the church. That was also lovely but we agreed that Draguc was the gem.

We moved on to Motovun which is the real tourist town in the area. A beautiful village perched on a hilltop that looks spectacular as you approach it. But when we got there it was just teeming with Germans and Austrians so we decided not to go up into the town itself but to admire it from the distance. Instead we went on to Oprtalj (Portole) which is on a nearby hill surrounded by vines and olive trees and a magnificent view that included Motovun. I bought some Croatian wine there for us to try.

By this time it was getting late and I was keen to see the coast before we left the Peninsula so off we went to Novigrad, a beautiful little seaside port with little boats sitting in the harbour. We found an enoteca by the harbour and sat outside as the sun set with a glass of Muscate in hand (a bit sweet for both of us but very nice). A delightful end to a lovely day in Croatia.

Then we had to get back. In Slovenia you have to pre buy a pass for the freeways and our pass had run out so Jane had to get us back avoiding motorways and toll ways….no mean feat and the route was scary at times, mercy dark and very long. We got back at 10pm after a 12 hr day and not having had dinner, we put some scraps together and went to bed.

Then began the sound and light show of all time. I’m sleeping upstairs and the Lightning was so bright and the thunder so loud it was impossible to sleep but it was so amazing as I looked out the window and watched it all. Chris was downstairs and the rain was pounding in onto the terrace. This morning the sun is shining and warm and Chris is out having a swim as I write this.

It will it in the inbox for ages as I have not internet connection but when we go out i must find somewhere with wifi….it’s been too long.

We’ll both be sad to see this 2 weeks end tomorrow. It’s been magical.

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Of castles, duomo and horses

Firstly I have to say that I’m index fingering this email sitting on the balcony in the glorious sun in my bathers. I’ve been for my early morning swim and am now just relaxing. Just couldn’t resists a bit of a boast!!

Now….Yesterday was another nice day setting off up to the Trieste Castle and Duomo on the hill behind Trieste. It was a lovely surprise. It is the site of the Roman settlement of Trieste. The Duomo dates back to the 13th century and has some really lovely mosaics. I’ve missed my mosaic hunts (looking forward to Sicily for another burst of Mosaics). Then we went up to the castle. I’m totally castled out but the view of Trieste was rather splendid.

Then Chris had been recommended a fantastic seafood restaurant beneath the castle were we retreated to for a mussel soup and a seafood lasagne (shared)!! We then headed off to Lipica to see the Lipizzaner horse stud. These are the same horses as the Viennese ones. We had to be there at 3 to see the show that they put on 3 times a week. It was fabulous, the horses are just wonderful as are their riders. Then we did a tour of the stud and saw the horses both in the fields and in their stables. It was really fantastic. The Slovenians are so proud of their beautiful horses.

All good, did our super marketing, and home for a quite night. Not to be. The owners of the house we are staying in also have the house next door that they use as their beach shack. They are very wealthy and bought the house next door that we are using so they couldn’t be overlooked. They are friends of a friend of Chris’. He is the top lawyer in Trieste. Anyway they had told us they were having a party and to pop over. No way was I going, no way at all and Chris had decided not to go also. So we’re quietly sitting outside, listening to the party noise. They were having a great time, singing, laughing etc. Then they started singing When the Saints Go Marching In….in English! Then they started calling out ‘Where is Australia?’. The next thing we knew he literally rose up in front of us like a tall lanky spook!! Long and short of it is that we ended up part of the party, eating cake and drinking wine. They were delightful people so it was nice. We didn’t stay too long!

A bit of fun!! Today we are having an at home day. The sun is pouring down after a few days of cloud and rain so it will be nice to sit in the sun and to go for a few swims.

And to the Tongan drew, Trieste would be a fabulous port to inhabit!!

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Ljubljana

Great day yesterday. What a fabulous city Ljubljana is. It’s got it all really. Overlooked by an imposing castle, beautiful old town huddled around the castle, great buildings…baroque and secessionist…but best of all, as you probably know, it buzzes with life, the river and streets lined with cafes and restaurants. Such a beautiful town to wander, sit in a cafe(with wifi) by the river and have a chat to Rosa. All very relaxing and civilised. We had a light lunch as we’d booked to dine in the evening in our favourite Trieste restaurant Nero Di Seppia.

But not to get off too lightly there was the fucking castle to climb up to in the afternoon. I reckon this was the mother of all climbs. Anyway, undaunted we got up there. As is fairly routine Chris and I lost each other (all her fault of course) and when I was sitting around waiting for her and recovering from the climb, I got it into my stupid head to climb the tower….after all it was the view we were here for, wasn’t it???

So up I went….good view for sure, then down I came and met Chris. By this time my legs were jelly-like and then we started the descent. Choosing the worst possible path down, very rough and very, very steep. Twice I slithered over on to my bum!!

Anyway, got down and charged for the first cafe we saw to have a coffee. There were a few other buildings we wanted to see so we walked a bit more, then found the car and headed for Trieste. We went to a very trendy bar owned by the son of Chris’ friend and I had the best red I’ve had to date ‘Sancin’ just for reference….it was great. And we got our 2 glasses each for a mere 10Eu due to Chris knowing the owner chap. Added bonus , they had Wifi and I was able to connect with the London contingent. Loved that!!

On to the restaurant for another marvellous meal of spaghetti with tuna eggs and pistachios and another pasta with scampi followed by a beautiful baked fish called Orta. All just too divine really. We got back very tired but very satisfied with a great days work, and piled straight into bed.

Today is another day as I write this on the balcony overlooking the water. Its been cooler for the last few days and it rains a bit from time to time. The relief from the heat is very welcome but supposed to heat up again for the weekend which will break the peace of our little, very quiet, spot by the sea, as the crowds will arrive with the heat.

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Around Trieste

It rained all night last night and again there was thunder and lightning all around us. A very noisy night but good for finally being able to get under a sheet and so be better protected from the mozzies.

When I got up this morning It was quite cool but nonetheless I decided I was going to go down and have a quick swim before my shower. It’s a good way to wake up and what a treat to be able to do it. It was just lovely, the water is always warm.

We then got going and went to Castle Miramare which sits out on a promontory as a Triestian landmark. It was built by / for Maximilian the Hapsberg Arch Duke of Trieste. Not long after it was finished as his love nest for his wife Charlotte he accepted a request to become the King of Mexico and when he went to Mexico he was assassinated. Charlotte never went back to Miramare. But it is an amazing Castle with a wonderful interior decked out like a ship, opulent and classy. It was great to see. We both loved it.

When we came out of Miramare it was raining again so we went into Trieste to the best restaurant yet … called Nero Di Seppia. All seafood and so yummy. That was great. We are generally eating one meal a day and having a little snack back here at night.

After the restaurant we went to the Museo Revoltella. It was also fascinating. The old villa of Pasquale Revolttella who played a major role in Trieste in the 19th century. He was also a major player in getting the Suez Canal built as it was so important in sustaining Trieste as a major port. Fascinating to see his house basically as it was. The adjacent house also houses the Contemporary Art Museum so lots to see and 154 steps up to the (would you believe it) 7th floor and 154 steps down!!

After both these large museums we were exhausted and it was pouring. So after a stop to stock up on wine we came home.

Trieste is such a confused town with a great mix of the Germanic, Italian and Slovak cultures. Your phone company keeps trying to change to Austria or Slovenia and the food is also a mix of the Austrian/ German and the Italian. The buildings are very Austrian Hungarian Empire. There are more German and Austrian tourists than I’ve seen anywhere. All of this makes it so unique. Driving up to the north of Slovenia yesterday we could have been in Switzerland. Eeverything is jumbled up and Trieste wears it like a queen with sophistication, great food and restaurants, great bars and a generally relaxed feel. The Coast is of course full of summer holiday makers at the moment which adds to the feeling of a relaxed laid back place to be.

Great to hear that the London contingent are all having a great time together!!

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Exploring Bled

Firstly have I described how difficult access is to this shack. There is a very steep path on a loose and rocky unmade road then there are 80 steps to clamber up…narrow and steep. All that is fine….manage it without a problem each day. However yesterday the combination lock that holds the chain to lock the gate out didn’t work with the combination. I can’t tell you how difficult access would be if you can’t get out the gate. So I worked and worked on the lock for ages and eventually got it to open. But we had to find a new combination lock. So instead of heading off nice and early to Bled we had to hunt around for a lock. To no avail. Combination locks an impossible item just fyi, in case you desperately need one in Italy. And when you do find them they come with their own combination….no good for us because another house uses the path so we couldn’t change the combination. I’m not sure why I launched into that long and tedious story using my index finger but by the time I realised how long and tedious it was I was too far in!!!

We eventually got to Bled of course but it was already well into the afternoon. So fist things first and we found a nice restaurant sitting out on the terrace over the Lake. A most splendid view and a nice lunch (fish of course) which I finished with a Slovenian/Austrian cream cake….just couldn’t resist. You should have seen Chris’ look of horror!

Next we got on a boat, sort of an elongated gondola type thing, and were rowed out to the island in the middle of Bled Lake. They wait half an hour and then take you back. So you climb up to the church on top, you fly around a bit and look at the view, then you go back down the Hil and jump back on the boat.

At this point the skies were black and the opening of the heavens was imminent. We went up another hill to a church in the town, San Martin, then back to the car and a drive up to the castle that perches up on a rocky shelf above the town. Thinking it was going to be a lovely day, I was in thongs just by the way. And when I say drive up to the castle I mean drive up to the steep, slippery path that leads up to the castle. Got up there OK but then the heavens really did open. So in my thongs I had to negotiate the castle grounds and then get down the slippery slope to the car. I tell you it was a miracle that I got back uninjured.

So we drove back over to Italy in the rain, back home for a simple tea of prosciutto and cantaloupe. Then bed.
What a long story for a small day…

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Slovenian Pleasures

Yesterday was a bit bleak and dribbly. We had a rather slow morning catching up on a bit of washing and cleaning about the place. Then we took ourselves off to a lovely local fish restaurant called ‘Dama Bianca’. We sat on the water front and had a lovely long lunch.

Then we set off for the serious business of the day. First to a town called Hrastovlje to locate the church of the Holy Trinity where there are these amazing C15 frescoes. Problem was in this most complex of languages everything looks the same so we put a similar town into the (precious) GPS and off we went to the wrong town. Confusing both us and innumerable townspeople as we kept on insisting on directions to their most ordinary of churches. They were certainly bemused by our urgent enquiries in a mixture of English/Italian.

Anyway we eventually found it and it was indeed fantastic. Extraordinary frescoes including the dance of death….fabulous!! We just got in before closing and took our time. A group of barefooted Christian, Austrian kids arrived walking on their pilgrimage and looking incredibly Ernest and well…..Christian. They were looking for shelter for the night as it looked like rain. Just a barn…and the very kind Slovenians were trying to find somewhere for them.

Next we headed off to Slovenia’s main port town on the Istrian Coast, Koper. A lovely town with a superb square and beautiful buildings, all so different to Italy, so Austrian/German in style. It really was a lovely old centre to this bustling port town.

We then headed back stopping off in Trieste for a tapis-style snack and a glass of wine at a trendy bar called SaluMare. We got home exhausted…did our mosquitoes prevention strategies and hit the hay. Cooler nights are helping with the sleeping over the last few days.

More tomorrow about our activities today but for now it’s late and I need to get ready for bed….attack on the mozzies first though!! Chris is already in bed and I’m sitting on the terrace listening to the sea and trying to get at least one day written down.

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Enter Slovenia

Very tedious writing my post on the iPad with the index figure but yesterday was such an amazing day that I have to!!

We set off to go to some small villages in Slovenia where there are examples of Kaste Houses. These houses are made totally from stone including extraordinary roofs of stone. We started off at the Castle where there was an exhibition by a wonderful Trieste/Slovenian artist Lojze Spacal. Then we went to the cathedral and then were taken to see a Kaste House by the girl in the Tourist Office who was looking after the Castle. She then happened to mention that there was a festival in a nearby town where all the villages were presenting their wines and their prosciutto.

So our plans for the rest of the day were aborted and we went to Dutovlje to join in the festivities. And yes each small town had the wine they produced and were carving slices of their prosciutto on bread. You bought a book of tickets for 10 Eu and for each ticket you got wine or prosciutto. There were lots of other local dishes as well, a massive cow on a spit, cheeses made locally etc etc. I nearly bumped straight into the President of Slovenia who the people seem to love. Then there was a parade with people in traditional dress, lots of accordions, the horses from Lipica where the horses are breed and trained for the Viennese Lipizzaner School, ‘wolf..ish’ dogs, tractor floats. Fabulous, fabulous. All this time we were working our way through the coupons very nicely. I must say though that I drank some of the roughest reds I’ve ever tried. We also tried yummy traditional dishes with meat cooked on a spit with radish etc.

We were nicely ensconced there. It was raining a bit, not that that dampened the spirits. We might never have left there except that disaster struck….we lost our coupons between us somehow. Shit!! But it probably saved us from getting completely sloshed. When we left it looked as if that was the way a lot of people were headed!

So…we had time to have a quick explore of the cave we had included in the day’s activities originally. The Skocjan Caves. We were tired after being on our feet all day and thought we may have missed them as it was getting on for 5 and they closed at 5. But no, last tour at 5. So we raced in and got tickets without thinking. THEN the woman told us it was an hour and a half walk. It was 3 kms underground and a km to get the the entrance AND there were 500 steps. My jaw hit the ground. Remember we had already been on our feet all day. I actually panicked that I just wouldn’t be able to do it….then what the fuck??

Well long story short….I did it. There is this bridge you have to walk across too that is 50mt above the river at the base of the cave system. So there was another challenge given that heights aren’t my forte either. It was spectacular and I’m glad I did it but imagine my relief when I saw daylight. The cave comes out at the base of a massive canyon with vertical rock walls. So I panic again!!!!! Relief…..the guide mentions an elevator. Then complete despair when I realise you have to get up many more stairs to get to the funicular thingo. That was really the last straw for me, another 100 or so steps. But again I did it although very slowly and awkwardly.

Then we went into Trieste to San Marco cafe which is famous for all the writers that sat (and sit) there. The most famous of course being James Joyce. I hobbled in!! I then used the wifi to reassure myself that Ang and Kirst were safely in my half of the world in London.

Then we went to the restaurant near home for a quick bite of seafood. Unfortunately that is another 80 steps down and then up. Then the precarious walk back down to the shack in the dark (another 80 steps + unmade very rough road). Imagine when we got home how exhausted we both were. Even the mozzies couldn’t keep me awake!!

Rainy again this morning and even a bit …dare I say….chilly. A step free day I’m hoping…that is once we get up out of here!!!

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More about paradise and mosquitoes

The Internet connection is so bad here that it is very frustrating. Trying to talk via Skype is just annoying and Viber is impossible. Writing an email on iPad also isn’t easy.!!

So, just briefly, on Friday we swam and relaxed in the morning then up (and up) to our little Panda and took ourselves off to do a bit of a reconnaissance of Trieste. It is so different, once again, to other parts of Italy. The Austrian-Hapsburg influence is very apparent. It is an elegant cafe scene with majestic Germanic style buildings. We went to the oldest and most famous cafe, The Specchi, for a drink and a snack, then we wandered around just orienting ourselves to the city. It was hot and sweaty wandering so we got back into Panda and drove to the top of the ‘Karst’ which are the limestone cliffs that are the backdrop to Trieste to see the obelisk and get the view,

Back to our ‘shack’ for another swim. Then we went out for dinner at this lovely fish restaurant a few minutes walk along the beach from us. Mind you the walk along the beach is no picnic it is a walk on rocks, clamouring over boulders, and avoiding hazards. Definitely no beach stroll specially coming back in the dark!!

Yesterday we had a lazy morning then set out to have lunch at a fabulous restaurant not too far from here again on the water and the fish and mussels were to die for …sensational !! A thoroughly divine meal. Even better, on the way there I found a shop that had a pair of rock/ water shoes for me. It made my day finding them. I tried them out as soon as we got back and they make a world of difference getting in and out of the water….new girl!

Next challenge ….getting the better of the mozzies. I go to bed scratching and wake up scratching with more bites to keep me occupied. Mares, reminds me of the sand fly bites that nearly sent us mad. Anyway I went to a chemist and said I wanted the strongest thing they had. I’ve plastered my body with it and it’s better…so far….I think.

Yesterday was the August holiday in Italy so we just had the lovely long, lazy lunch and came back to swim. But last night was truly amazing. We ate at the shack on the balcony and were treated to the light show of all time. The sky was filled with lightning for hours, flashing all around us in a spectacular display. Then because it was this big holiday there was also, looking across the water, Probably at Venice, was a spectacular fireworks display. Then looking the other way at Trieste, more fireworks. It was the most extraordinary experience. The thunder started rolling, the Lightning kept flashing so we just sat on the balcony spellbound. Went to bed to watch from the window and the rain came down.

This morning all is calm again, just the sounds of the water which is such a treat. I think we’re going to do a bit of caving today! See how we go!

Ang and Kirst should now be arriving in London. How exciting to have them over here.

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Trying to get through

Not sure if this is going to work or not. No WiFi here and relying on the 3G on the iPad with variable signal.

So briefly then. I obviously got to Trieste without too much fuss. Bus to Bari Airport, my usual getting there early and hanging around the airport for ages. Luggage allowance of 15kgs and I weighed in at 15.3!!

Chris picked me up at the airport and we drove down to heaven ( with a couple of things detracting from that title which shall become obvious). The house here is down a very steep cliff and negotiating the stony/ pebbly track followed by the steep steps (65) with case and hands full of bags was a nightmare. Fortunately Chris was fantastic. The house perches up over the beach with more steps down to the water.

We sat on the balcony and had a wine….enter spoiler number 2…..the fucking zanzare…biting me all over the place. God I hate mosquitoes with a passion. Anyway we went down to the beach for a most glorious evening swim in crystal clear Mediterranean water. Totally bliss!! The beach itself is nothing to write home about(even though I am). It is just rocks and getting into the water is challenging over these rocks but once in the warm water there is nothing as blissful.

Chris made a clam spaghetti for dinner which went down very well with a tonne of white wine. Then off to bed to ensure the mozzies got a good meal for the night. It is so hot at night too.

This morning we had a pre-breakfast swim….again as close to heaven as it gets. A nice brekky on the balcony, tranquility only shattered by a small child having a temper tantrum. The beach in front of the house is as close to a private beach as it gets although used by the neighbours( who have a spoilt brat of a child).

We’re now off into Trieste…and maybe find some rock shoes for me (Chris has some….very handy I think. Probably for Sicily as well!!)

Now to see if this gets to you.