Category: Siciliy

Ang and Kirst flew away and now our final days in this heavenly place are drawing to a close. Ham and Ariane drove A&K to the airport. I don’t do airport goodbyes well so I stayed back and indulged in some more time in the pool. The rest of the day was spent lounging about. It was Friday afternoon so the kiddies descended for their weekend at around 4pm which gets me out of the pool until they go in for dinner at which time I have my evening swim. This time by the beach and the pool have given me much more confidence to continue swimming when I get home. I lounge about in the togs now where once I wouldn’t have been seen dead, I dive in and out where once I would have gingerly used the steps. I’ve been diving off rocks into the deep ocean and walking in over rocks into crystal clear water (once I discovered the phenomena of rock shoes) so its all been good for the confidence and I’ll miss it when we head off to Palermo tomorrow.

Yesterday we took off and went back into Siracusa/ Ortigia for lunch. It was really a hot, hot day so we didn’t have much energy to do much more than that…a bit of shopping at the market and then this sensational lunch that one of the market shops does. Small tastes of all sorts of meat and fish sensations…washed down with a glass of vino bianco…what more can a single person wish for?? Before that we watched as a number of little set ups got the meagre bit of meat out of sea urchins. We ordered one and then waited the 10 minutes it took for them to extract a small cup of flesh from the sea urchin. It cost 10 Eu but there is no way you could begrudge the money given the effort it took to firstly pluck the urchins and then laboriously extract the flesh. Ariane and I then ate/drank the flesh just as it came (Ham reneged)..and it was delicious, sweet and yummy, yummy. Next time I see sea urchins in my path when swimming I think the go is to put them in a bucket and eat them!!

After our fun in the market we set off further south to the southern most tip of Sicily, Isola della Correnti, I had my bathers on so when we got there I had a swim in the most crystal clear of waters albeit shallow. It was a lovely swim and a great way to cool off even though the water of the Mediterranean is so warm its like taking a bath…so unfamiliar to an Aussie!! Then of course you have to deal with the sand and the wetness etc but for me it was worth it. The others went and sat in the shade and had a granita while I had my swimming adventure. We then went to another, very picturesque little port town, Marzamemi, full of lovely little ancient buildings and so pretty. We had a drink and then headed home.

A cool off in the pool, regardless of kiddies, was mandatory and beautiful. However our lovely deep ocean was suddenly very active with waves crashing against the rocks where once had been beautiful dead calm. So there was no way you could get in off the rocks and the pleasure of the ocean swim had to be forfeited. Ariane concocted another amazing meal which included a peach, mascopone and marsala / tiramisu-type desert….amazing!!!

Today we are heading off to a National Park with a place for lunch that has been recommended to us by some Brits we met. This national park also has apparently got beautiful beaches so the togs are on already. Waiting to leave!!

Today Ang and Kirst leave us after what has to have been the very best of times. A wonderful 5 days mixing up lazing about and a bit of exploring south eastern Sicily.

We did get our act together the day before yesterday and headed off for a day in Taormina. It is a wonderful, medieval town very pretty but packed full of tourists…of the large group variety. Still we enjoyed wandering around, we sat down for an easy lunch, walked up to the Teatro Greco but decided not to go in at 10 Eu a pop. Then decided we wanted to get back in the pool so we headed home. We had mussels and pork chops left over from feast day and we got stuck into them for dinner. It is so very lovely cooking on the BBQ and sitting out on the terrace with the sea breezes wafting in, looking across at Etna.

Yesterday we had a lunch booking at an expensive, michelin star restaurant in Ragusa. We set off around 10am so that we had time to explore the old town of Ragusa ‘Ibla’. We took a while to get there given the confusion experienced by the GPS, who has turned into Bruce. At one point it was trying to make us go off-road…a command we wisely resisted! Anyway we got to Ragusa, found Ibla and headed up to Piazza Duoma. We found the restaurant, also called Duomo, and had the most delicious, leisurely and pleasant lunch. It was a lunch time set menu and it was really, really wonderful. It came with 3 glasses of wine and they happily accommodated Kirst’s requirement of well cooked food. There was a primi of spaghetti with sardines and wonderful ‘other’ flavours, a main of fabulous beef and a desert of ricotto canolo, but of a very wonderful, superior variety. One of the treats of the meals was the little palate teasers between courses, such as an amazing truffle ice-cream. All in all a great meal. We then walked the town a bit more, up to the panoramic point and around, back to the car and back home via the supermarket to pick up the essentials of life, beer and wine.

We had a picky, leftovers meal of lovely meats and cheeses, anchovies etc last night after our Ragusa adventure. All good and off to bed.

This morning we’ve been lounging about, we have had a glorious swim in the ocean, absolutely unsurpassed heavenlyness. Now the boys have started to watch the football, have a final beer (wine!) and soon head off for the airport to go to Rome. I hate goodbyes at airports so I think I’ll stay home!!

Since I last wrote days have flown by lapping up this little piece of paradise on the Sicilian coast. Swimming, sitting in the sun, going to fabulous towns with amazing markets and feasting to celebrate Ang’s birthday. It is so beautiful here that it will be hard to leave it behind and head into Palermo, a busy, hot city.

Winde back a few days to the 13th. Az and I went into Catania to pick up Ang and Kirst…me driving which is a bit tense! They were an hour and a half late but otherwise all went well. We got back here, caught up, swam a bit and then went out to a local village, Agnone Bagni, to a little restaurant we’d been to before, Il Triangolo, and had one of those typical fish feasts. Nothing special but a fantastic local, laid back place.

The next day, 14th, was the day before Ang’s birthday and we were on a mission to stock up on fresh food for the feast day planned in celebration. So we went in to Syracusa and the area called Ortygia where there is a large market for everything! But first we wandered around Ortygia to get a feel for it. It is a beautiful Baroque town (or suburb of Syracusa…not sure which) with lovely narrow streets and beautiful buildings and piazza’s. We went to the Duomo (of course) and then headed on to the market for a major shop of mussels, clams, calamari, cheeses, meats, wine etc and then had to stagger back to the car with it all. The need to get it home, out of the heat and refrigerated was foremost on out minds so we sacrificed having a lunch of all the street delicacies available. But when we got home Az concocted a lovely pasta lunch which more than compensated!! After lunch Ham, Ang and Ariane were going down the many steps to hop into the ocean. I took a deep breath and plucked up the courage to go with them. The entrance and exit points were a bit scary but with the boys on hand I gave it a go…no problems really and it was so lovely…so deep and clear and just wonderful.

After this relaxation it was time to go again, this time for an ultra massive supermarket shop. Again we staggered back down to the apartment with masses of shopping. This time it was Pizza for tea which the boys went out and got from the same restaurant in Agnone Bagni.

Yesterday was birthday day which means a day of feasting and lolling about in the sun, flopping into the pool whenever we felt like it. We started the first course around 12….a feast of antipasto with delicious cheeses, prosciutto, melon, etc etc. Delicious. While we sat around after this I set to work de-bearding 5kgs of mussels in preparation for course no. 2. Then it was time to head down to the ocean for another swim. My courage was well and truly in place after yesterday and I was in the water in a flash, having a lovely long swim and no trouble getting out either. It was heaven. The climb back up is pretty steep and sweaty so when I got back up I just flopped into the pool to stage my exit!! Then sitting in the sun, drinking some lovely white wines bought in Bordeaux. Then we ate mussels to our fill, beautifully prepared and totally delicious. This was followed by calamari prepared by Ang and cooked on the BBQ by Hammy. More swims, more sitting in the sun then Clam Spaghetti. Then a steak with salad and then the Tiramisu Ariane had made during the day….washed down with a Chateau de Malle sauterne. Had I died and gone to heaven? No but I could have!!

A great day of celebration for a great birthday in what must be the dream place of all time!!

More adventures today…maybe off to Taormina if everyone can raise the energy to leave Paradise!!

Yesterday was a day by the pool. Although the kiddies dominate even they have to go and have lunch and there are times when I can hop into the pool with no-one around and it is heavenly. Then to lie on the terrace and read with the sun pouring down is absolutely heaven. Ariane concocted a delicious lunch again and the day went by lazily. Apart from the kids we have at least one very strange neighbour. A (very) hard drinking Russian man and his very coquettish woman. He drinks all day long and came up to us in the pool to introduce himself. ‘I am Alexander, where you from? Ah, Australia, Kangaroo!! Putin very, very good! Obama not good!’….OK??!! Then he comes out drinking something he identifies as gin and beckons us in to drink with him!!…no thank you!! Weird!

In the evening we went into the small town nearby Brucoli which has some nice restaurants (or so it looked when we cruised through there the other day in the pouring rain). We were early so we booked a table at Sud Cafe and went down to their bar by the water for a drink. The setting was superb and we sat out on the rocks sipping Spritz, Mohitos etc…you know the routine. It was really lovely but it went sour when we went to pay and it was 43Eu!! We added up our drinks and it came to 32Eu, so I (delegated spokesperson) went up to ‘clarify’ and ask to see the bill. Which they couldn’t supply and what then ensued was an argument in which I took their calculator and added it all up. Then they said 10% service charge…OK said I fair enough, that’s another 3 Eu and brings us to 35Eu…still not 43. Then they rattled on about a Tourist menu…I told them they were the most expensive bar in Italy and we wouldn’t be back….but I couldn’t do more!

We then had to go to the restaurant run by the same people…it was very posh so we kept our ordering to a minimum but it was fairly ordinary anyway. When we were loving it we were going to bring Ang and Kirst here tonight but not any more!!

Today is Sunday and Ham is working away. At lunch time Ariane and I will go into Catania to pick up Angus and Kirst…exciting!!

Well the weather has cleared and the days are now perfect, sunny and warm. The view from our apartment perched over the Mediterranean and looking across to Etna is just simply perfect. The swimming pool is perched on the edge of the cliff and the apartment with its expansive terraces is made for an outdoor lifestyle. Very relaxed and holidayish!!

We have been exploring the towns around us each day. The day before yesterday we went into Catania, a bustling, busy town. We wandered for a bit and then went to the fish market to buy supplies. There was every kind of fish available and we bought our Mussels, clams, calamari and scampi. The scampi, however, turned into a silly disaster thanks to me. I am designated spokesperson because of my extremely limited Italian which, although totally appalling, is better than anyone elses. So I go to get a few Scampi because I love them. I try to bargain down the price and he says he’ll give me all he has left (3 kg) for 10 Eu and I say OK. Ariane looks at me aghast, saying WHAT are we going to do with 3kg of Scampi???? As she is the cook, how the hell would I know.

After buying our fish we went to a wonderful fish restaurant within the market. It was heavenly and we ate our fill of mussels, clams and prawns etc. Then we headed back to the car and made our way home with a purchases of seafood. The strong smell of seafood was overwhelming even when we got it into the fridge and Hammy, particularly, complained bitterly about it. The small was coming from, you guessed it, my scampi. I went through them and discarded those that were suspect and separated out the ones that looked good. But the unease about the scampi could not be erased from my brain. So the next day I bundled them all up and out they went…my bargain gone to shit!!

Notwithstanding we had a most delicious meal of Mussels created by Ariane that night, sitting out on the balcony as the sun set. It couldn’t have been more idyllic.

Yesterday Hammy did some work in the morning and then we headed off to Noto to explore this town, listed as a World Heritage Site. We went in search of a restaurant noted in the LPG as excellent. This entailed a hike up to the High town only to find that the restaurant was closed. So down we came again and found another nice restaurant where we had a delicious meal. Not fish this time, we are starting to feel rather fished out! We then wandered the very pretty Baroque town with its beautiful golden, sandstone buildings. It is lovely but not totally overwhelmingly beautiful. We then headed back home and once again Ariane created a grand meal, this time preparing Calamari from the fully intact squid. No mean feat!!

Today is Saturday and our lovely pool is suddenly full of kiddies here for the weekend I guess. Ham and Ariane have just been for a swim in the ocean. Access is a bit tricky so I have to pluck up a bit more courage and maybe have both boys on hand to help if needs be.

More tomorrow…when Ang and Kirst arrive.

Fine, beautiful weather all over Italy except, you guessed it, Sicily!!

Yesterday afternoon we went off to the local towns around where we are staying. First to Augusta to essentially find a Big Supermarket to stock up. We did that then drove around the town a bit. We then went off to a small town near here called Brucoli. A lovely little seaside town that looked as if it would be really nice if only it wasn’t raining and wild. So we didn’t stop…for another time, like when Ang and Kirst are with us. So home we came and Ariane just casually whipped up a delicious meal of antipasto-type food. Ham has hooked us up to Netflix so we are now watching a series ’Narco’.

Then we went to bed but the action didn’t stop. First there were helicopters literally scraping past the Villa and searching the sea. We are just opposite, and overlook, Catania which is where the refugee boats land to enter Italy. So I got up to have a look at what was going on but couldn’t see anything, just helicopters circling. Then the rain, thunder and lightning started and rain it did so there was the concern we’d flood again. But they (the owner) had put sandbags along the door and I’d put towels along the inside of the door which they had provided and there was no internal water this morning. All good, and it really is so wonderful listening to the wild weather and the sea just outside the window.

This morning I had a great, long Skype with my work buddies and caught up on the comings and goings in that world. Hammy works in the morning so the starts are slower and a long Skype is such a lovely way to spend time. Then we set out to go to Piazza Armerina and the nearby Villa Romana del Casale. Well honestly it was just pouring, visibility was terrible and the weather was unrelenting. When we left this morning I had a great optimism about the weather clearing up so I was decked out in T-Shirt, thongs etc and shit was that a bad call. There were potholes, mudslides and landslides. Torrential is the word I think. We stopped in Piazza Armerina for lunch and just stepping out of the car meant we were soaked. The roads we had to cross were like rivers. The first place we swam into was full so we had to go out again into the river and swim to another place. We did in fact then get a good lunch which we enjoyed. We then set off for Villa Romana. At which point we sat in the car wondering whether we had the energy to get out of the car and walk the 400 or so metres to the Villa, wading through water…or whether we should turn around and just go home.

Fortunately we got out and went into the Villa. It was a complete treat. The mosaics were amazing and a joy to look at. We spent our time there looking at probably the most intact, splendid and extensive floor mosaics I have seen in one place. We loved it and when we had finished looking at them the rain had finally stopped (at least for the time being) and the drive home was quite pleasant.

We wondered what we would find when we got home and there had indeed been a huge amount of rain back at the ranch as well, however, although there was some rain inside there was not nearly as much and it was easy to mop up. The clouds are clearing and we can look across at Mt Etna and Catania now. The sea is rough but it is wonderful to listen to. The weather is going to clear, or so we believe, and hopefully the sun will shine tomorrow.

We’ve just had another Ariane creation of delicious salad and a yummy sausage…time for bed!!

A Domani