No Wifi in Tokyo so making some notes to transfer when possible. What an adventure Japan is. Its a challenge and it certainly keeps you on your toes working out where things are, how things work, not to mention the whats and the whys!!
June 10th 2017:
Arrived at 7.30 pm and we were tossed into chaos. How to get to our hotel was the first challenge. The busses didn’t go there and contrary to expectation there wasn’t too much polite helpfulness. In the end we decided to get on a train to Tokyo Station and then a taxi. We bumbled around trying to find the right ticket office and eventually got ourselves onto a train. I must say I’m happy not be travelling alone. It’s great to have Rose working things out with me (you will of course not believe that we aren’t fighting every step of the way, and of course you’d be right but its still very good to have her). The train took for ever and we didn’t arrive at Tokyo until 10pm. Into a taxi and we got to the Ginza Creston. (Rose insists that I say that I bowed to the taxi driver and said Obrigato getting my Portuguese mixed up with my Japanese…but I’ve refused to add these small details). We were exhausted. Too exhausted to go out for food and the hotel didn’t have any food so we completely decimated the mini bar…to the extent that I even opened (and ate) the M&Ms.
Then my first attempt at working out how to use the loo. Being a blind old lady I had to put my glasses on and peered over the buttons. I pressed a button and got a mouth full of water. All down my shirt front and soaked my crotch. I screamed while Rose remained completely impervious and stony faced…despairing of her dotty old mother.
We were both exhausted and fell into bed. Oh yes and the view from the hotel room was totally spectacular looking over the river.
Sunday June 11th
The first thing was breakfast at the hotel. Predictably I had the Japanese breakfast and Rose the Western breakfast. Both were crappy really. My disappointment with the Japanese one was that there wasn’t anything fresh. Anyway we set off with the main mission of getting ourselves sorted. It was a frustrating day walking in multiple circles and ending up totally exhausted and (me in Particular) foot weary. I now have blisters taped up as per usual in my first days of travel (memories of Iceland!!!). Anyway. we packed up and got a taxi back to Tokyo Station where we (eventually) found lockers to put our cases in (that is another story of Rose and I unravelling with each other.…suffice to say I was right!!) We then went and got our JR passes to start on Thursday with our purchase of a ticket to Takayama. Then we wanted to get a subway pass for multiple days and were sent on a wild goose chase of mammoth proportions. Round and round and up and down we went. We stopped for a coffee (Italian style) and I confess to a great big trifle which I ate under a barrage of criticism (perhaps justified) from the Buddha….keeper of all the moral rights except when it comes to beers and crap western food.
Then we walked around the Imperial Palace gardens and Rose decided she was hungry. So we set off again. She found a “Imperial Bar”. That was something of a mistake. She had a western style chicken toasted sandwich and a beer. I could go on and on…but suffice to say we spent a fortune and really hadn’t got ourselves into the Japanese modus operandi at this point.
After lunch was really the best part of the day because walking back to the station we stumbled across these wonderful ‘old town’ alleyways with lovely old buildings and fabulous restaurants. That was great. Then it was back to pick up our cases and find the train ( after working out the subway ticket we wanted to meet our needs) to get to our Airbnb. We found it but not without a few hiccups). We came in past large signs saying that Airbnb is forbidden in this building and legal action will be taken). We got up to the apartment and, well, its OK but for the first time we discovered no WiFi which was shattering. We gathered ourselves and went out to find urgent supplies of alcohol…no problem there. Then out to find somewhere to eat.
The area we are in is great…a really lively area full of restaurants and people. We found a great restaurant and for the first time felt as if we were experiencing Japanese life. We had a great meal in a restaurant full of people who spoke not a word of English. We had yummy food beer and wine and have come home satisfied. Rose has a day planned out for us tomorrow in another area of the city with a cultural vibe so I’m happy.
Time for bed and Rose is busily organising the tiny apartment so she can get as far away from me as possible.
General observations to date: Japan is incredibly homogenous. No (although as soon as I said this we saw 4 woman tonight) hijabs, no black people, few white tourists compared to other countries such as Italy. No homeless, no refugees and somehow so detached from the perils of the Western world.
We are off to bed.
Monday 12th June
Today Rose had a great day planned in and around the Ueno area. It was a day full of promise. The area is the cultural hub of Tokyo with a lovely park full of Museums. I had mentioned to Rosa to check to see if the museums were open on a Monday and when we got there I asked if she had checked. Oops!! every single bloody museum was closed as we walked through the park and out the other side. Oh well the park itself was nice with a lake full of water lilies, carp and tortoises.
Ueno is a very groovy sort of area full of shops and restaurants. We headed off for a coffee place bloody miles away which was a great place for coffee. Then we set off for this lunch place recommended by LP. It was a sizeable walk away and I must say the restaurant looked amazing. An old wooden traditional Japanese building…but guess what, closed on a Monday. Rose wasn’t earning too many points on this adventure!!
Then we walked through some lovely back streets full of shrines and through a massive cemetery in an effort to find restaurant recommendation No. 2 only to find it wasn’t open until dinner at night. Not too much gratification here. My feet were hurting ++++ . We found a place for lunch and by this time I bloody well needed it. Then there was another sort of walking tour recommended by LP which we embarked on and this took us to an area of open street markets which was fantastic. I loved this area. It was full of food, character, people.
Then we decided to go home for an intermission. We were home for an hour or so then we headed off on the train again back to the Ueno area and found a place to eat that was really and truly fantastic. It was a traditional Japanese sake bar with small plates of food. It was sensational. I had a couple of little pots of sake and some really interesting plates of food. Rose probably not so excited by the food but we both loved the place.
After that we wandered through the night ‘markets’ shops and then home. Then the highlight of the day….we stopped on the way back to the apartment at a very ordinary place for Rose to get her fix of Gyozo (not having had her fill at the Sake bar….unlike me). We noticed that they had Wifi so we were able to make contact and in so doing were able to get onto the woman who owns our Airbnb and she gave us the password so we are connected. Although my email isn’t sending!!
I have my traditional bandaged up feet from blisters but I felt very good when Roses App told her we had walked 13kms. Thats enough for any old girl and justifies the elastoplast!!!
We are using the subway system like veterans and getting around the various neighbourhoods of Tokyo like natives.
Observation for today: Everyone just leaves their bikes outside their apartments without any locking system at all. Says a lot for a country I reckon!
Tuesday 13th June
OMG, my poor feet!! Plan A today was to rise and shine early and to get ourselves to the Tsukiji Fish Market. Now when I say early Ang and Kirst, I don’t mean 4am but we thought we’d get there early enough. It was up at 6.30 am and on our way by 7am, jostling for space on the goddam train, changing trains and trying to find our way there from the station. We were already frazzled by the time we got there only to find that you weren’t allowed in until 10am. WTF!! We filled in time at the outer market with its food stalls and tourists and when it came time to be able to enter the market we were lined up with the other tourists in a long line. We were allowed in in bunches and directed by men in uniform with white gloves so we didn’t go astray. We then wandered through the market…no photos, no interactions with the vendors and all a bit surreal honestly. A massive variety of fish and every conceivable shell fish but an hour later we were out of there and heading off in the direction of a lunch venue even though it was still ridiculously early!!
Rose had identified a restaurant in an obscure part of town that was incredibly difficult to get to so we tried to work out the trains system…too hard really. It was raining so we thought of a taxi…massive queues. Then I suggested we looked at the busses and lo and behold there was a bus heading where we wanted to go. So we found this restaurant and had a nice lunch of meaty things such as sukiyaki. All good.
Then we had decided to go to go to the Tokyo National Museum and once again it was hard to get there from this obscure restaurant. It was raining and at this point I decided we’d jump a taxi. That was a relief. We were dropped at the door and the driver leapt out and produced an umbrella from the boot to give us as a gift to keep. The museum was free for over 70 y.o and I told this lovely man I was over 70 but I didn’t have my ID with me. He said what is your date of birth and I gave hime a year earlier and in I went. Then I felt horribly guilty. The culture of honesty and trust means that you feel horrible if you breach that trust. So I was mortified and wanted to confess…but of course didn’t!!
The museum was OK and there were some lovely things but it again wasn’t overwhelming. Then it was back on the train and home for a rest before going out for dinner locally. That was also a bit underwhelming but hilarious when we had finished and wanted the bill. Rose in control sets about asking for the bill. She’s already had 2 huge glasses of beer and the woman totally misunderstands her and cheerfully brings her massive glass number 3 of beer. I was pissing myself. Rose dutifully consumed it!!
So home after another big day. I think this story may sound a little negative but the overall experience of Japan is fantastic. It is a world unto itself. It is so different from most travel experiences, it is challenging and hugely rewarding. I look forward to what tomorrow brings!!!
Wednesday 14th June 2017
Another big day on my poor, long suffering feet. Oh how they suffer while I get back a bit of travel fitness. Plastered up again we set out at a more leisurely pace this morning. On the subway at 9.30 we headed off for Senso-Ji. A big buddhist temple in Asakura ( a suburb of Tokyo). This meant train changes and mountains of steps to climb ( this is clearly a blog from my experiences in a heartfelt sort of way). The most interesting thing about this expedition was the busy, interesting streets we walked through to get to the temple with lovely little Japanese handcrafts. None of which I bought but I certainly wanted some!! The temple itself was surrounded by a crawling mass of tourists and I personally ( and I think I speak for Rose as well) could have taken or left.
Our next expedition comes as a confession of sorts. We were united in our desire to get back to the Manchuori area to an Italian restaurant where we’d enjoyed a lovely coffee on day 1. We did this guiltily but both really enjoyed our lunch!!
Then it was off hiking again up to the East Garden of the Imperial Palace and onward and upward to the Museum of Modern Art (MOMAT). It was truly exhausting that hike in the blazing sun and it wouldn’t be honest if I didn’t say that there was a tad of tension in the air as we tried to work out the directions to MOMAT. We got over that (as is our way) and enjoyed the Museum. But truly it was a big day and the train ride home was only to be endured. But that wasn’t all. When I struggled home the lift was out due to works on the building and I nearly cried when I had to climb to the 4th floor (actually maybe not as bad as it sounds as the floors are small in the Japanese style.)
We rested our feet and this evening set out to find somewhere to eat. It is true to say that neither of us have found the food too awe inspiring, mainly I think because we’ve only found good restaurants on a few occasions. Tonight was no exception. Too much fried grease for either of our liking.
Now its back here to clean up/ pack up and get ready to move on tomorrow. we’re exciting about getting to smaller places and are looking forward to Takayama.
Todays general observation must be the observation that bidets are GREAT!! I have taken to the lovely warm wash of my botty bot like a duck to water.
Goodnight from Tokyo XXXXXXX
Thursday 15th June 2017:
It could go down as one of our rare mistakes but the train from Tokyo to Takayama was at 9.30. That meant we had to get on the train to Tokyo station at around 8am…OMG!!! A little old lady, her daughter and 2 large suitcases to experience the peak hour on the Tokyo train system. It was horrendous. It was the man with white gloves pushing people on to the train thingo. I was lucky enough to get a seat after about 4 stops but Rose had to juggle her case and maintain her balance while dealing with this wave of humanity!! It really was out of this world. I didn’t think we’d ever get off the train. But needless to say we did. We’ve become quite efficient at getting ourselves around due largely to Roses mastery of the rail system and with no trouble at all we found ourselves on the train to Nagoya. All most efficient these Japanese. We had to change at Nagoya but again no problems and again largely because Rosa had done the homework and knew which platform etc.
It was a splendid train journey. We had our food. Me with a Bento Box and Rose with sandwiches. We had our beer and little bottles of wine. The journey itself was spectacular through the mountains. Very close to Mount Fuji which fortunately popped its head out through the clouds specially for us and looked just larger than life as we cruised past it. The train followed a beautiful river through the mountains which was all very lovely.
We arrived here in Takayama and it just feels to me like a huge relief to be in a smaller town and so unhustled. We are staying at a place called “Rickshaw Inn”. This is the real deal. Its shoes off at the door, Tatami mats, and are sleeping on the floor. All of which I can deal with without any problems. The only thing I find a bit tiresome is that the only place to sit is on the floor and that just isn’t made for (my) comfort so I’ve come out to the general lounge to sit and write.
This afternoon we wandered around the town. It is so beautiful. The old town is just what you imagine the quintessential Japan should look like. Old wooden houses, lovely crafty shops, lots of sake distilleries, restaurants etc. It was lovely moseying about for the afternoon taking in the atmosphere and stopping to pick up some street food or have a drink. One delightful woman in a coffee shop insisted on taking out photo on a bright pink polaroid camera as a souvenir. It must have cost her a fortune as she made several attempts to get the perfect photo.
Back to the Inn…nowhere to sit so out to the lounge area very boldly with our wine and beer.
Now we’re just back from tonight’s meal and it was SCRUMPTIOUS. This area is known for its Hido Beef. The hotel man recommended a restaurant to give it a try. We were sceptical to begin with. Neither of us wanted great slabs of meat but we ate our words. It was fabulous. We cooked our meat at the table and had to work it all out ( a complex process for the faint hearted) but it was such a great experience and it felt as if we were getting the real stuff. So good!! Now we’re home again and have to face a nights sleep. Not just on the floor but bang up against each other and we all know that that doesn’t really work so well!!
Oh well Japanese style for 2 nights aint the end of the world.
Friday 16th June:
Well what a busy day its been. And here was I thinking we’d be more laid back and lazy in a small town like Takayama. Well think again old girl. You forgot the Rose factor.!
Firstly the night wasn’t too bad. I don’t want to moss myself but I got through the night OK.
Then after a boring western bread- style breakfast at our very Japanese- style hotel experience, off we set. We came down to the river and walked along a market that run down the side of the river. Then we went through the Yoshijima Heritage House. There is such an appeal in the simplicity and beauty of these Japanese houses.
Then we set off up into the hills on a walking path that takes you to multiple temples and shrines. We started at the Takayama Festival Floats Exhibition which is basically the floats they bring out in October each year for Takayama Matsuri. And they are truly spectacular some featuring the puppets, the Karakuri. That brought us out at the Sakurayama Hachiman-gu Shrine. And then from there we happened upon the Karakuri Museum.
This was great, it had all these hand crafted masks on display and then did a bit of a puppet show displaying the mastery of these puppet masters and the age old mechanisms by which they worked. I found that fascinating. Anyway onwards and upwards on our shrine walking path. It is beautiful, beautiful weather with the sun blazing down on us but it does get a tad sweaty as you wander through the hills that surround Takayama. That was thirsty work so we eventually, having been sated of shrines and temples, headed back to town to find some food and liquid to restore us for the afternoons adventures.
We both enjoyed our lunch. I had a Hida Beef Curry and Rose a Hida Beef Sandwich. Its fair to say that we’re both enjoying the food much more now that we’ve left Tokyo and are enjoying the local specialties.
Then, much as I would have liked to have curled up in a ball, Rose had me up and at ‘em once again. Firstly to the Takayama Jinya. These are a beautiful crop of buildings of the Sanmachi- Suli house which is the only remaining prefectural office building of the Tokugawa Shogunate. Again these buildings are amazing and it helps to get a handle on the life and times (including the torture). Then…it was take a deep breath and head up and up and up to the hilltop over Takayama to see the ruins of the castle Takayama-jo.
And my god up and up it was. First we had to get ourselves past a little man in uniform at the start of the road who kept insisting we should get on a tourist bus and directing us to the busses. So we had to regroup and make attempt number 2 telling him we wanted to walk up the hill. We did get past him finally and up and up we trudged. Some parts were so steep I thought I might start rolling down again. But we got there and then was the real bummer. Because that was just the start of the park and then you had to climb steps for 450M. Well I got up about 100M and my jelly legs couldn’t get me up any more steps so much to my chagrin I had to stop and send Rose on up without me. She came back saying it wasn’t worth it and good thing I stopped but she had lovely photos of snow capped mountains so I don’t know!!
Then back down the hill (definitely my exercise for the day) and we walked back through this divine little town, making a few little purchases along the way. Rose wanted another of the superb beef buns so we stopped for that too. Then back to the hotel for a wee respite. Next we will go out to find a meal.
The only place I can sit comfortably in the room is on the toilet so I come out to the lounge area they provide. Happy days, it has western style seats.
Having returned from another fabulous meal I now prepare for bed. This restaurant, Kotaro, was again a sensational. It is tiny with just a husband and wife team preparing the food but it is so good it was unreal. I had Hida beef miso. No idea what to expect but truly to die for. Rose had pork stuffed with cheese. We both came away from with grins from ear to ear. We then decided to stop for another drink and found a bar which was actually full of Melbournians. We had a powerful cocktail each and we’re now ready for bed…notwithstanding that it means the floor.
Goodnight. xxxxxxx
