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Yet again more of the same from lovely Trieste

There really isn’t too much more to say this morning. It is getting hotter again and all trips into town/ internet cafe end up in a pool of sweat. But we had a lovely excursion yesterday into our favourite restaurant from last time. It is called, for the record, (and not what I called it yesterday) Nero di Seppia. And it didn’t disappoint. It is such beautiful seafood. I think it has been my favourite meal all trip. A superb pasta with anchovies, pine nuts, oregano, etc… just heavenly. Followed by a magnificent Sea Bream cooked to total perfect. Then desert… well I can’t even begin to describe that… a sort of de composition of millefiori.

We went off to the supermarket, got very very hot and headed back for the beach. My favourite times for swimming are first thing in the morning and then after lunch when the Italians have their rest period. But yesterday we were back a bit late and I was well and truly sprung. Out in the water watching them all pile down onto the beach/rocks. So I had to pretend I was gorgeous and come out smiling and chatting… sometimes I think I can be so like my mother!!!

We sit out at night usually with a simple pasta and salad and we watch the sun set. It is really lovely. Only 3 days left of this before we head for hot old Venice for a couple of days to the Biennale as we did 2 years ago.

Today we will probably go back to our Mussel place by the sea for lunch….life’s tough!!

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More of the same boring old thing!!

The days of my boasting about the heaven lifestyle here in Trieste are slowing drawing to an end so bear with me. Yesterday after our swim we went into Trieste. First time we’ve actually been in there this time. It really is a most lovely town of the Hapsburg era and so far comparatively undiscovered by the hoards. We had a small lunch and a glass of wine overlooking the harbour then wandered the town. We were on a wild goose chase looking for a book shop Chris wanted which entailed walking around in circles for a bit. Then we went back to the car, which we couldn’t find for a bit….slightly insane at this point. It is very humid and sweaty!!

We came back here via the supermarket to replenish the wine supply and plunged forthwith into the sea. Such welcome relief and the Jelly fish (Medusi…I learn all the words for the pests that are out to get me) had gone completely, now there’s a relief!! It was the loveliest swimsuit deep in the startlingly blue water.

Then its lie about, read, do a magic puzzle, snooze etc until dinner time. Chris cooks the evening meal and we sit about until late talking about the meaning of life….well that’s it most days. One of my must does is to go back to the restaurant in Trieste that I loved so much last time ‘Seppio di Nero’ so maybe we will try to get in there today….apparently its very hard to get into.

Sorry this is so boring, maybe I shouldn’t do it each day for the time being but it keeps me connected!! Amongst all of this I do get homesick for you all.

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Ferragosto

Yesterday was the big holiday, Ferragosto, as I have said…big family gatherings and many descending on our strip of Paradise…but not so many. The good thing about the rocks is that it’s pretty inaccessible, its an effort to walk along the beach whereas we just pop out our stairwell and are inches from the water. Christine spent ages yesterday clearing a path to the water. An autostrada it turned out to be. With my rock shoes, I’m moderately able to manage. So into the water (I told you about the jelly fish), into the WiFi bar for our coffee and send/ receive emails and phone calls (thanks Rose it was so exciting to get a phone call). Then back for lunch, more swimming and reading etc.

But last night was different. The friends of Chris’ who are in the house next door had a feast for Ferragosto and they invited us. Their son who owns a bar in Trieste came down and his girlfriend. Their daughter-in-law is also staying with them with the 2 grandchildren and us so it was dinner for 9 and they had cooked up a storm. They cooked two large and delicious fish on the outside fire and they were divine. I kept thinking how much Louis would have loved that fish!! Anyway we ate, drank wine and ended up with grappa so that we could hardly move at the end of it so full were we. The end of another day.

Today the routine continues, the water looks inviting and so I will go off for my morning swim, then we will go in to find WiFi.
Ciao for now darlings all.

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More of the splendid same

Yesterday we had our morning swims when the water is clearest and at its most pristine at which time Chris swam along to the trattoria down the beach a bit and booked us in for lunch. Then we headed into town to do our internet stuff. We came back from that and headed straight to the trattoria for some seafood. We walked back along the beach (rocks actually) and straight into the water for some more swimming. I stayed in for absolutely ages. Then just relaxing on the verandah all afternoon. Chris made a pasta for tea and we sat out drinking wine into the night. Today is Ferragosto…the biggest Italian holiday of the year. I think we will go and see if our bar is open anyway. Chris thinks it will be so here’s hoping. Still, nothing really to report. Except I miss you allXXXXXXX

Again…Paradise lost. I went in for my swim before going into town and the water was full of jelly fish. Chris had been down and had retreated and she sent me down to see if they stung!! I went out through them and got to the deep water where there were less. However coming in I did get stung by one of the little buggers. I headed for the vinegar but being in Italy they only have Balsamic…try rubbing that on your under arm!! So I tried the Aquim. Its still stinging but I haven’t stopped breathing yet!!

Adieu…we’re off into town now.

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A visit to Aquileia

We got up yesterday and after a stop at our internet bar we headed off to Aquileia, a very small town about 50kms away that we had heard about but had absolutely no idea what to expect. It was hotting up when we got there and found the old Roman port area, we walked along and through it and really expected nothing else. So we kind of sauntered up to the Basilica and WOW!! The entire floor was covered in the most wonderful mosaics from the 4th and 5th century. It was enthralling and so gorgeous that we spent ages there, far longer than we expected to spend. There were also fantastic frescoes so it was a wonderful surprise.

We then stopped at a lovely bar near the basilica and had an aperitif then started back for the car stopping for the best gelato I have had (I’ve only had one other) this time. Delicious. Our walk back also took in the Roman Forum, also part of the site. So that was a great success. It was very hot and we headed back for the house, stopping to buy wine because the friends of Chris’ next door had invited us to dinner. We got back and although I was dying for a swim the sea was rough and it was high tide so I was worried about getting into the water without scraping my leg or falling over, so I didn’t go for a swim which was tough because I had to sit in the shade and let the mossies munch on me.

Later last night we went in next door and had a delicious meal of seafood risotto followed by delicious chicken with zucchini and lemon. That was nice. We were in bed later than we ever are i.e. after 11. Then I had an horrendous mid-sleep experience….I woke up and felt something in my hair and moving!! I grabbed at it and pulled it out, turned on the light and there was this massive (a couple of inches) caterpillar/slug on my pillow….aaagh!! It was all I could do to settle myself down after that horror-movie scene.

We will (hopefully) go into to our bar to send this this morning but tomorrow is a massive public holiday in Italy and nothing will be open so I will be off air for a couple of days.

That’s it for now my darlings. I think I may go in for a morning swim while the sea is calm and the tide out.

P.s Have just been for a most divine swim in crystal clear water….truly heaven!! Now into town for a wifi hit.

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First swim in the Adriatic for 2 years

First full day in Trieste – first swim in the Adriatic for 2 years.

Here we are in Trieste. Went to sleep to the sound of the ocean and woke up to the sound of the ocean.

We set off this morning anxious to find our internet cafe and make our contacts. There are stairs – totally formidable stairs at the side of this house that are massive. There are over 100 and up and up they go. Knowing how paranoid I am about holding people up and wanting to set off ahead I told Chris I was going up and I’d meet her at the car as she had to talk to the woman next door. So up I went and got to the top with wobbly legs only to find there was no way up to the car that way. Fuck I thought I’ve gone too far so I went back down a few flights but couldn’t find the way out. The phone rang, where was I said Chris. I told her…oh no sad she, that’s not the way out. So all the way down I had to come, cross over to the next door house where we stayed last time and all the way back up…well old jelly legs nearly died in the attempt. Except that I didn’t.

The long and the short of it is that we eventually hit the road to the little village down the road. We tried 4 bars with internet and only on the 4th did we find a functional internet. With that we sat for an hour, didn’t speak and caught up with emails etc.

After that we headed off to our very favourite restaurant from last time overlooking the water and selling delicious food mainly focussed on mussels. Again we had a gorgeous lunch of seafood, drank wine (you’d be proud of the white wine I’m happily consuming Ang….that is before you were ashamed of the amount of white wine I can consume).

We did a massive supermarket shop after lunch to set ourselves up for the next 10 days, came home and staggered down the path/ stairs with our bags of shopping.

Today was a cooler day but by this time it was heating up so it was into the bathers and finally into the water. That was really hairy for my this time because you get into the water through formidable rocks and I was very anxious about scraping or knocking ‘the’ leg as well as my legs not being as strong as they were 2 years ago particularly after the forced immobility before I left. Anyway I did it without mishap and had the most heavenly swim in the crystal clear water.

After the swim we both sat about soaking up the sun. I must say this place is heaven but even heaven has spoilers and it is a constant fight to ward off the ingenious squad of mosquitoes (Zanzari, Ang) that know every trick in the book despite my bringing the Aussie weapons to fight them. They seem to love me, although I must say I believe they loved me less when I was on antibiotics…not sure if thats a scientific fact or not…anyway they are thoroughly enjoying me again now. Guess I’m just lucky.

Now its dinner outside overlooking the sea and watching the sun set. Tomorrow we’ll be off to that internet cafe again and then may be we’ll do a bit more exploring. So its bye for now darlings and I’ll send this as soon as I can.

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Back to Italy

Yesterday we set off heading for Trieste but not before a final explore of Croatia. But not before we bolted back to our favourite coffee place for one last coffee. We had to wait for our landlord to come and get the key from us but of course we were up and packed and ready to go by 8. So we decided to go and get on a tram into the centre and have a coffee. Marko was late so it was 10.30 before we were able to set off.

We got onto the Autostrada and headed straight down to the Istrian Peninsula to Opatija, then on to the tiny, gorgeous seaside village of Volosko. We were expecting the hoards but were so pleasantly surprised. Apparently everyone goes to the Adriatic side of the Peninsula leaving the East side to lead an altogether quieter life. So we found Volosko to be beautiful. Sort of like Portofino without the tourists.

We had an Istrian Guide from last time we were here and so went to a lovely recommended restaurant overlooking the boat harbour. We had a great lunch over a couple of hours, wandered the town, back in the car and off to find our way to Trieste which wasn’t that easy!!

The traffic on the main roads was horrendous and we couldn’t find our way onto the road we wanted, at least not without joining a daunting queue. So we made a few wrong turns and had to find our way onto the right road…bit tense I must say!! However it was no big deal and before very long at all we were across the border, into Euro-land again, passing briefly through Slovenia and on into Trieste. Phew!!

There was a complicated business to get the key to the house which entailed going to the house of Chris’ friend Patrizia, to get the key in Trieste. She and her family, including grandchildren, were also coming down here to stay in the house we stayed in 2 years ago. We have the house of the owners (of the 2 houses) next door.

We got here needless to say and the saga of getting our cases and paraphernalia down the hill was the same, remembering that getting it all down is not half as bad as getting it up will be!! But it is a challenge!!

But here we are ensconced once again by the sea. The house is really quite eccentric. It is delightfully cluttered and full to the brim with Sicilian pottery from the handbasin to the stairs and everything in between. It has a few weird aspects such as the very stylised photos of the woman all over her bedroom walls. She looks at me from every angle!!

The bad thing is that there is no WiFi so I am off the air for 2 weeks which, of course, spooks me. Having said that, Chris and I are going in to town to find a WiFi cafe which we will try to do regularly. I’m writing this in Word and will cut and paste when I get to WiFi. But remember if anyone should really need to make contact (heaven forbid), I do have my Italian phone.

Bye for now, I get even more homesick when I’m not in touch.

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Its Sunday, this must be Croatia

Another lovely day today driving through the Serbian hills along the wine trail from Ptuj to Jeruzalem and Ozonom. Beautiful wines, gorgeous countryside and a nice (light) meal along the way. Then on to Zagreb and our Airbnb for the next 5 nights which is lovely but which is, unfortunately on the fucking 5th floor. Oh well fortunately I’ve made it up twice now and I guess it can only strengthen my legs for the massive hike down to the beach at Trieste. The apartment is good but the sense of how far things are is worse in Croatia than in Italy i.e. it is advertised and confirmed by our host that it is 500M from the main square when in fact it is 1.7 km. Our host said it was a 5-10 minute walk…well all I need to say about that is that he is a professional tennis player so he can probably do it in that time.

No complaints, it is much cooler today around 28 deg which is a huge relief in a town like Zagreb. We walked into town for a meal, got some stupid bloody Croatian crap money and walked home again. Its late, we’re tired and ready for bed.

Thanks for your email Rose, it is SO lovely to get an email from someone!! My leg…thank you for asking…it is holding up really well but the crunch is coming when the antibiotics finish tonight. I’m a bit scared of this moment but here’s hoping. It certainly looks good…scarred a browny colour but it has lost its hot redness so all should be well. I’ll take a photo in the morning and watch it closely. Starting to walk more and more so if all goes well i’ll be nearly normal.

Chris has changed your name in her address book Hammy!!! It is an old old entry into the address book. I haven’t even seen the photo she sent you.

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More adventures as we roll on through Slovenia

I can’t remember where I got to last time but I think I was in Firenze waiting to have final drinks with the girls. That happened. Drinks in the roof top bar of this fabulous hotel with a view of the Duomo. Too hot to be outside but the view from the picture window inside was to die for. They went off and I wandered around the town at sunset. Still stinking hot but slightly more bearable. I wasn’t going to eat but I stumbled across a lovely little restaurant so in I went and had a risotto and a wine to finish me off for the night.

Next morning, which, bizarrely, was only yesterday, I had an amazing breakfast (included) and I set off walking to the station. 1.2km…nothing until you add the heat which turns you into a melted icy pole in a flash. Anyway no problem and by some strange miracle Chris and I managed to get ourselves onto the same train. We got off at Venezia Mestre and the hire car place was closed from 12.30 to 2.30 as is the Italian way. So, again in the Italian tradition, we had lunch! Picked up our little Citroen 3 and off we headed for Slovenia. It was a long haul and we finally made it to our ecotourism farm where we were staying for 2 nights at around 7.30. Phew. We have a great room which actually has 2 bedrooms (I keep thinking how relieved Rose would be). Included is the night meal and it is all produce from the farm and is totally delicious. They also make their own wine from their own grapes and again delicious. We sat around eating and drinking in a beautiful garden setting which restored us to normal pretty quickly. After dinner we sat out on our balcony and had another glass of wine we had smuggled in!! Then bed which would have been perfect had it not been for the fucking zanzari that chose to bite me and only me!!

This morning we had a delicious breakfast of all the farm produce including home made bread, apple juice, yoghurt etc etc. Then we set off for a day of exploring Southern Slovenia. Just like last time 2 years ago I just love this little country. So beautiful and so proud. First we went to Peterlji Monastery which is nestled in the hills surrounded by vineyards on steep steep slopes. They make their own wine and after we visited the church, had a look outside the monastery (you can’t get in), then of course we bought a bottle of their white and a bottle of red just to keep our supplies up. We also visited a lovely old house and farm buildings which was a treat. It had a traditional Black Kitchen which, Ang and Kirst makes the black kitchen an art form!! It was also full of animals that followed us around!!

By this time it was so hot and a man told us that this was Slovenia’s hottest day EVER i.e. EVER. The previous hottest had been 40.9 70 years ago. Today was 42!!! He said they are usually more used to having 60cm of snow.

So…what do you do? Chris had read about a restaurant (Gostilna Vovko) so we made a beeline for there. We had a massive meal with veal shank. The servings are huge. For more than you want really!! But it was delicious. After lunch we went off to a town called Kostanjevica na Krki. This small provincial town in Slovenia has the most amazing gallery, The Bozidar Jakac Gallery in a Cistercian Monastery. It has a vast collection of Slovenian art by Jakac and the Krajl brothers Tone and France that I loved. But it was SO hot I honestly wondered whether I could keep going or not with the sweat pouring down my back. After this we went and sat by the river of the town where the families were all swimming and had a beer and a wine to cool off a bit.

Then we drove back here via the Otocec Castle but there was no stopping at this point. But then Chris got a phone call from the ceramic shop saying that you horse woman was in H&A. Now, it wasn’t supposed to come back up to Rome and I was going to go and pick it up. But here it was in Rome with the one major problem that the shop was closing within an hour and they wouldn’t be back until 9th September!!! FUCK!! Chris nearly drove off the road at this point. We pulled over and she rang a friend of hers who, thank god was actually home. He ran off to the shop (poor guy had to pay as well)…anyway alls well that ends well and the Horse woman is now being baby sat in Rome!!!! Wow!!

Anyway we got back here, had another amazing home cooked meal and we are both now so pooped its time for bed. Tomorrow we head off to Ptuj where we will spend our last night in Slovenia before going to Zagreb.

Its a great adventure so far and the leg seems to be holding up so far….touch wood!!

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The last few days of the Lucca whirlwind

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The photo is a takeaway Spritz. I mean how good is that?

Anyway. I forget where I was up to! I think it was Monday when the photography exhibition was closed. Then we all met up again for the mandatory aperitif before going off for a meal…the one where we spilt an inordinate amount of wine on the table.

That was a fun night that ended farewelling Andrew, Desiree and Gail as they were heading off to the Cinque Terre and I was leaving before they got back. Then Ann and Simon arrived after 11pm to stay the night as they had a night of homelessness. That all went to plan.

The next day was 39 deg again. The 3 of us set off for a fabulous breakfast place and sat about for ages. We then we went home and sat in front of the little air con unit until their place was ready for them to move into. Off they went and I went out to see the photography exhibition I’d missed the day before, arriving in a giant pool of sweat. Fortunately it was small and manageable and very enjoyable. I then went to get my first gelato since arriving in Italy. I went back to what used to be one of my favourite places but it definitely didn’t live up to expectation and my gelato treat turned into a gelato disappointment!! Then home again to cool off before the drill of meeting for aperitifs and then a meal. This time we went to a fantastic wine bar for our drinks and then a really fabulous restaurant where Ann knew the owner. This time it was Ann, Simon and Carmel. We had a great meal, sharing plates and enjoying everything.

Ann and Carmel decided that they were going to come to Firenze with me in the morning. So home for a last night in Lucca. Tidied up and packed up in the morning and Ann came to my place to pick me up. We met Carmel at a place for brekky and then they took my bags from me and off we all headed to the station. I was so glad to have them. It was hot, the elevator at the station had broken down and the regionale trains are like mountains to climb up on to!! So that was great.

In Firenze they went off shopping and I plodded off to my hotel. By the time the train got in at 12md the temperature had climbed to 40 deg. So I arrived at my expensive hotel in a pool of sweat with a face like a fucking beetroot!! I’d booked a single room of course but they told me they would upgrade me and here I am in a fabulous and massive suite. It is unreal and totally wonderful. I regrouped briefly and then set off for the Mercato San Lorenzo where I was meeting the girls for lunch. It was a 20 min walk away and when I got there I was once again like a walking, dripping beetroot!! But a glass or 2 of prosecco later and some pasta to die for (a truffle pasta that was truly divine stands out) and I was revived enough to head back to the hotel while they went off for some more serious shopping.

I only got half way to the hotel before I had to stop and get a juice to maintain my equilibrium. I came back here and flopped on my lovely bed under the air con. That was an hour and a half ago and I’m waiting for them to finish their shopping and meet me at the hotel for drinks in the bar before they head back to Lucca and that really will be it!!

I must say I couldn’t keep up the pace for much longer but it has been the most amazing time of being swept up with friends and feeling very much part of something extraordinary. Chris is worried that my expectations will be too high for the next phase of this incredible holiday. We meet on the train in the morning and that will be great too. First night in Slovenia I’m told after picking up the car.