Category: Italy 2018

This is a quick one again as the days tend to blend with each other. Up to the car in the morning, in to the little town for coffee and internet, off to the supermarket for a bit of a stock up then back to swim, read, swim again. Then in the afternoon we set off again. We’d booked into a restaurant that someone had recommended for us on the foreshore on the way into Trieste, called Trattoria Al Sub.

But first Chris wanted to try getting to the Lighthouse once again so off we went…along the winding roads behind Trieste, up on the Karst…the limestone rocky escarpment that surrounds the town. But alas, probably because I’m supposed to be the navigator, we missed the lighthouse. But fortunately we then found our way on the winding road leading back to the tiny town of Prosecco. We had time before our dinner booking so we made our way back to the Nuova Osmiza we had been at a few nights ago. This time we got a table right on the edge with a most spectacular view of Trieste and the bays…it truly is stunning. We had a glass of wine and just soaked in the view. These places are so remote and so hard to find but are always full of the young and the old alike. Very nice.

Then back down to the restaurant for a most delicious meal. Then back home.

The last 2 days have flown by. Yesterday marked by nothing unusual…swimming, eating, making the big effort to go to the supermarket so we could eat…cappuccino on the way…you know the sort of thing.

But today was another thing. Today is the first day since we’ve been here that I actually haven’t had a swim. I showered instead this morning. Given that I’m only showering every 4 days or so, that was actually a treat.

Then we set off on an expedition, firstly having coffee, of course, then into Slovenia and a little day trip to Ljubljana. I really love this town its so quaint and pretty but on the down side, as Chris says, its a bit like Disneyland. Just full of tourists…one wonders where the real people are. Still I love it, I like the little shops with their lovely ceramics etc. We went back to a cafe we’d been to last time we were there 2 years ago, its away from the tourist streets and it was lovely to sit outside with our wine and cheese.

There is a bit of a cuffufle here. Firstly a wooden door that was already really rickety kind of came off its hinge and the wood split. Chris is very anxious about this because the owner, Mariella, is very pernickety. …where are you when we need you Ang?? But then even worse, the people who were using Mariella’s house ( you know the cast of thousand – 14-) that were here, told her that the Americans were also staying. The rumour mills started grinding and Chris was getting phone calls about it which was really hard for her. We are now waiting for Mariella to arrive and Chris’ best guess is that we will have to pay more for the house. All just kind of detracts from the relaxed feeling of the place…maybe there won’t be a next year!!

Its aperativo time. Chris had a swim but I decided that I’d miss out today in the interests of comfort and not getting wet and salty at 7pm.

Tomorrow will be a stay at home day so it will be back to flopping in and out of the water. Thursday we’ll go on another adventure, then Friday will be clean up day (+ flopping in and out of the water), then Saturday its back to Rome. One day in Rome and then I have my last solo adventure down to Lecce. My head is already taking me home.

Thats it for now my darlings one and all.

It is suddenly so quiet here!! Jane and Dennis left after lunch today. It’s Sunday so there are a few people down on our beach but still it seems so quiet. Chris can move off the couch and into a bed and we can spread out a bit. On the down side, we no longer have an internet. That’s a bit like being cut off from the world…it is amazing how much I rely on the internet to stay in touch.

I’m bonding with my new rock shoes and swimming regularly given the heat of each day. It is a crazily lovely place to enjoy the sun and the sea (no sand, only rocks). You would all love it. How good would it be to have you here with me.

Now that the Americans have gone Chris is planning all sorts of excursions. This afternoon she wants to climb a lighthouse (it remains to be seen whether I will join her) and then go to Prosecco to drink some prosecco!!

Chris and I have just come home from a night out. First there is a lovely lighthouse here that Chris wants to climb, the Faro di Vittoria. So we went there only to find that the last entrance had just past… I was delighted but of course now we will have to go back because Chris has her heart set on it.

Then we set off to this little town above Trieste basically on the border of Slovenia, Prosecco. We set off to find this Osimiza called Verginella. The Osimiza’s are places that make their own wines, have lots of outdoor tables and serve prosciutto, cheese and bread with carafes of wine, which I have to say is really nice wine. It was jam-packed with locals all enjoying the cooler air of the hills above the sea. We sat there and had our wine and antipasto in a gorgeous setting overlooking the bay and Trieste with Italy, Slovenia and Croatia on all sides. Splendid!!

Back now at our lovely quiet home. Time for bed…or almost!!

Goodness knows when I’ll be able to send this given I will have to get to a cafe with WiFi. But it can wait in the queue for when the time is right.

Thinking of you always….with lots of love XXXXXXX

Just a quickie today because basically not a lot happening down on this ranch. I actually had a shower this morning, my first shower since we got here, I mean a shower where you use soap and water and wash your hair…the real type.

Then I had to ruin it all by going for a swim…it was a tough decision but I eventually decided a swim trumped clean hair. Then we all walked down to the restaurant down the beach for lunch. My rock shoes are disintegrating on these rocks so I will have to buy some new ones very soon. Delicious lunch once again. Then I decided to swim back so as not to ruin my rock shoes any more. So I gave my things to the others and paddled my way along the beach to home. And thats it til now. Everyone except me has been having a snooze.

The Americans, Dennis and Jane, are leaving on Sunday, so one more day with them. I will miss the internet when they go!

Hi guys. Maybe a little more eventful today!! It was Dennis’ birthday and Chris and I had to pick upour hire car this morning. So they took us into Trieste and dropped us at the train station where the hire car place is. Then we met them in at Cafe San Marco in Trieste. This is a lovely old cafe where all the writers such as James Joyce used to sit and write. It is known for its socialista and theatrical patrons. Anyway, long story short, we had a Spritz/ coffee there.

We went our own ways and met up again for a lovely lunch at another old cafe on the waterfront that specialises in seafood. I had a crab spaghetti….so delicious. This was in honour of Dennis’ birthday.

Then we parted company again, they went back into Trieste to do some shopping and we came back to the local village to do the shopping for dinner tonight. As we were driving past the drive down to our house we noted clouds of smoke and wondered what was going on. Anyway on we went to the supermarket did the shopping, stopped in the village to buy me some rock shoes, then came on home.

When we got here, sure enough there were fire brigade boats X 3, police boats X1. The story was that a driverless speedboat went past through the water where people were swimming and lying on the beach. They noticed it was driverless and were watching it carefully. It swung around in front of our house and headed back to the populated beach. It then swung to shore, flew up onto the rocks and hit a brick wall and burst into flames. The trees above it also caught fire. Big drama that we missed. But we got back and swam along the beach for a sticky beak.

It’s aperativo time and Chris is cooking a birthday dinner for Dennis. I think this is the last time I’ll have internet until we hit our WiFi cafe.

A bit more energy expended today. We actually left the house, ploughed up the hill to get ourselves to the Cozze (Mussel) Restaurant that I have described lyrically for the last 3 years. It is still great and we had a lovely lunch by the sea watching the mussel harvesting boats go out.

Then we decided to go into Trieste as Dennis and Jane had never been there. That started off peacefully enough, wandering through the beautiful piazzas that open up onto the sea with their wonderful Hapsburg buildings. We just wandered about the town but I must say trying to keep track of everyone…all of whom have a tendency to wander off. I nearly went mad!! However I did find some of the toothbrushes I require as per Fabrizia’s instructions.

Up til now the day had been nice enough although as soon as you get away from the water the heat becomes oppressive. But Chris, in her inimitable style had researched top spots in Trieste and we set off on a march to find a top spot for an aperativo. Well it became a forced march as it went on and on. No-one had any water and everyone was getting slightly frazzled. We finally found this place only to learn that it was closed for the holiday period….aaagh!!!

We went to the Trieste Eataly to get some supplies and Dennis did the noble thing and went and got the car for us. We then had to stop at the supermarket for more supplies and by the time we got back here frazzled was putting it mildly. Then next door had parked in our car park (which is fine) except that their car had broken down and they didn’t want us to put our car away which caused more hassle as we tried to park it by the side of the road.

Anyway here we are back home, Campari Spritz in hand and everyone around me preparing a meal of cold meats, cheeses etc (I’m the clean up girl). Gorgeous sunset and a nice sea breeze and the mozzies having their usual field day on my legs. All is now well in the world again. Jane and Dennis were going to go to Slovenia tomorrow but the experience of the real world today was a bit daunting and they are changing their minds.

More later…lots and lots of love XXXXXX

Not my favourite day today. Its Ferragosto, a national holiday throughout Italy, and our little part of paradise has been descended upon. Friends of the owner next door arrived at their place with a large party of people….it feels like millions of them but its 14 I’m reliably informed. They’ve completely taken over the beach, severely curtailing my swimming opportunities to when they are eating, and making it impossible to get out of here due to hoards of people necessitating large numbers of cars. Hopefully it is only one day and we will be back to a more normal, privileged existence tomorrow.

Again Chris and I walked down to get our coffee this morning. That’s nice but it’s ruining my rock shoes that are starting to disintegrate. They are essential equipment so I may have to go in search of another pair. I was able to get a very nice morning swim in.

I was so chuffed this morning to get emails from everyone and messages from Louis that brought a tear to my eye. It is just so nice to hear from you, amazingly nice!!

Basically I haven’t left this place for the last 3 days. This is most unusual for us. When it’s just Chris and I we went on a little excursion every day even if it was just to our WiFi cafe. I think we have to bust out tomorrow though. We have a couple of fish to cook for dinner tonight and an aperativo to drink right now. So this is a short one.

A domani xxxxxxxx

I’ve spent so much time in the water today I’m turning prunish. Up this morning and Chris and I walked along the beach to the restaurant just down from us for our morning cappuccino. Chris tried to swim down but only got half way…I carried the money overland!! Got back after coffee and Dennis and Jane still hadn’t appeared so into the bathers and we had a long, long swim. We were the only ones on the beach, the water was crystal clear and so warm its like hopping into a bath. It was gorgeous. When we were down having coffee we booked a table for lunch. So came back up, dried off and very soon after headed off for lunch. I had ravioli stuffed with crustaceans…so delicious. Everyone had some variation on the seafood theme…delicious. We lingered over lunch, walked back and straight back into the water for another long, lovely swim.

Dennis and Jane have gone into town to pick up supplies. Tomorrow is the Ferragosto holiday in Italy, all the restaurants around are booked out and everything else is closed so we’re on our own in the catering department!! It’s nice having some quiet time while they shop.

Its 5pm and the storm clouds are rolling in which seems to happen in the evening. Its rather splendid to watch. It poured last night along with thunder and lightning but the days are hot, cloudless and beautiful…perfect!! I discovered today that my excitement about the internet will be short lived. It is Dennis who brought his portable router with him so when he goes so will my reliable internet access. They will probably be here until Sunday. Then Chris and I leave the following Saturday. I will go down to Lecce on Monday until Saturday.

I’ll end here for another day, the sky remains a constant source of interest with occasional lightning and thunder, a few spots of rain, but still warm.

Lots of love XXXXX

Well my dear family one and all. Here I sit, finally, on the decking of the Trieste house once again. It’s 7pm, I’ve just had my first swim in the Mediterranean and it really is just heaven. Definitely beats trying to keep warm in dear old Melbs. (If only I had you all here, I’d be happy, but I do miss you all)

All went smoothly today. We got on the bus to the station. A 3.5 hr train trip up to Venezia Mestre where we were met at the station by Chris’ American friends Dennis and Jane. They have a hired car and are going to spend 5 or so days with us here in Trieste. Its a bit weird for me because I have to get to know them but all is going well. We are bonding over a mutual love of wine and enjoying the water and the food.

The big difference here this year is that they have installed a router so we seem to have internet although I believe it is somewhat unreliable…we’ll just have to see. Last year, you may remember we had to stay in the house of the owner because this house was occupied. But we’re back in the second house now and I like it much better. It’s a much more relaxed, beach-house sort of house.

You will also remember the steep, steep steps down to here. Well we had to stop at the supermarket before coming on to the house so we had cases, bedding (the Americans had to bring their own bedding), and a massive amount of food and wine …all to get down to the house. I got off most lightly just having to get my case and a couple of bags down, Jane ran up and down like a fucking mountain goat. Anyway, we’re here ….Dennis can talk the leg off a chair so I’ve removed myself outside to write to you guys, leaving Chris to chat!!

We finally found the clams to make a clam pasta for dinner which will be nice. As I say every year there is always something to ruin paradise and it is invariably the mosquitos. I’m being eaten alive as I write.

It is shooting star time here so we’re hoping for a clear night and lots of wishes on shooting stars. I’m going to send this now, before dinner, just to make sure it all works…whoopee if it does!!

A day in Roma. Its so weird the way that this city just completely closes down about now. Everything is closed including essential services such as our bar for morning coffee, pharmacies, shops of all kinds. Chris tells me even the foreigners cemetery has closed for August so really its best not to die in August. Doctors go away and all that is left in Rome is tourists. The streets are quiet, just the foot traffic of the tourists. There are massive groups of Christians pounding the pavements all singing accompanied by guitars. I’ve been encouraging Chris to run them over but she isn’t to be persuaded…yet!! Apparently the Pope appeared at Circus Maximus last night to a massive crowd. We drove past and all we could see was masses of rubbish.

We went off to see if Mr Ping, my hairdresser, was still operational. We found he was working this afternoon for the last time until 3rd Sept. So we went off to Eataly to do some shopping, and finally find a coffee, while we waited for Mr Ping.

Eataly, like in Bologna, focusses on everything foody and is absolutely fabulous. There are 4 floors of everything you could possibly imagine….meats (OMG those Rib Eyes), fish, pastas, rows of designer beers as far as the eye could see, hams hung from the ceiling as if you were in Spain, beautiful fresh meat and veggies etc etc. We shopped, had our coffees, perused the food and bought up. It is just a lovely place to shop.

Then Chris dropped me back at Mr Ping’s. He had arrived and was happy to cut my hair. It was his last day so I was very happy to have caught him. He cut my hair like Edward Scissorhands…snip, snip, snip. Its very short but should be about normal by the time I get home. Then I had to walk home in the blazing heat, around Castle Sant’Angelo, mingling with the aforesaid multitude of Christians. My lovely haircut getting wetter and wetter as I walked!!

It was good to get back here. Chris had a lunch set up with all the yummy food we’d bought at Eataly…superb Straciatella cheese, figs, prosciutto, yummy bread. Now I have to start sorting myself with the clothes I need for Trieste.

Chatting with Ang and Lou this morning left me feeling rather homesick, I guess that’s the hazard for a traveller but I do miss you all terribly.

A lazy evening just sitting in front of the fan. Our dinner will be more stuff that we bought at Eataly…yummy fresh pasta. I’m even enjoying a small glass of beer it is so hot.

From here we move into a no Wifi zone in Trieste. I’ll keep writing but may not be able to send a daily email because we have to go up to a WiFi cafe to do that. For the first 5 days we are relying on Chris’ American friends for transport so may well not be able to manage the daily WiFi routine.