Category: Italy 2018

Soaking up the last day in Italy and enjoying Rome to the limit. Coffee this morning, packing and trying to see how much I can fit. Then Chris took me over to Eataly for some last minute purchases of wine and cheese to get us through the day.

We had a nice lunch, did a bit more organising and then had to set off to meet Bev at her posh Hotel Raphael, We sat on the roof top bar enjoying a couple of aperitivos courtesy of Bev. Chris then very kindly invited her home for a pasta. Bev just loved that…seeing Chris apartment and feeling looked after. I ran her back to the hotel, a lovely balmy evening through the lovely streets of Roma. Now it’s all over Red Rover.

Tomorrow is home time, the computer is going to lie down in the case until next time.

See you all soon!! XXXXXX

Travel day again…They are exhausting. But all went well. The train was jam packed. My 1st class seat didn’t do me much good. The train was chockers with everyone returning from their August holidays and I sat next to a nutty woman who kept want to charge her phone. The plug was across my lap so it was very annoying. A 5.5 hr train ride is a bit of a drag in anyone’s language. Its nice watching the landscape turn back to green as you move North, losing the vineyards, olive trees, rocky soil and cacti along the way.

I got the bus back to Chris’…It’s always nice to get back here, it feels like home. Chris had some lovely fresh mozzarella, prosciutto, figs etc for dinner and then we went out walking. Bought a gelato and sat in Piazza Navona watching the world. I must say it does feel like a massive privilege.

Bev is staying in a very plush hotel here and Chris decided to walk me past it to show me. I went in to leave a note but Bev was in her room. Chris bolted and I stayed to say hello to Bev. We went up to the roof-top bar which has a gorgeous view over Roma and had a Spritz. I only stayed half an hour but I think Bev appreciated it. The funny thing was that she also knew my NBFs from Lecce and confirmed that I couldn’t have sustained my cover as a Liberal Party private school girl for very much longer…but that’s another story.

I was exhausted so hit the hay as soon as I got back.

Today is a day of packing logistics (always my nightmare). Chris and I are meeting Bev for an aperativo this afternoon and then (just) Chris and I are going out for a last supper tonight.

Plane tomorrow!! Cant wait to see you all xxxxxxxx

What a busy, busy last day in Lecce. I’m bonding with this city, really getting to know it just as I’m leaving. The crowds have never been as bad as that first afternoon when I arrived here. I’ve discovered the reason was that the night before had been a massive festival here in Lecce and it was a long weekend for the region. I’ve since been enjoying the city without masses of people, in fact it’s been quite cruisy.

So, this am it was coffee as usual (I’ve bonded with my coffee joint too), then I plodded off to find a ‘Tim’ place to recharge my phone. That was quite a trek outside the old city into what was the new, and rather vibrant hub of modern Lecce with all the familiar department stores. I found my ‘Tim’ and recharged for another month even though I’ll be gone in 3 days, but it a bit of a security should anything go array.

Back to the old city to wander some more, bumped straight into my NBFs who walked with me to show me their favourite places for a while, then we went our own ways. I pottered around a bit then went for a quick pasta at the place I went to yesterday for a Cicera e Tria…chickpea pasta that is to die for. After this I bolted home to drop stuff off and use the loo before heading off to meet my NBFs again for a winery and sunset tour.

We were picked up by the lovely Antonio in a car with just the 3 of us this time. We drove for about 30 minutes to ‘Masseria Altemura’, a winery in an area called Torre Mesagne. It is an old, old vineyard that has been a source of employment for the families in the area forever. But it is also huge with a brand new winery and all the updated equipment. Because the new winery isn’t underground they have an elaborate system of cooling and sprays to keep it at 18 deg and moist all the time. We were then taken to a room to taste the wines with anti-pasta cheese, prosciutto etc. I didn’t expect too much of the wines but I have to say I was very impressed with the Altemura 2016 red. I always wish you were with me, all of you, to share the experience and validate (or not) my perceptions, but I loved it.

From there we went to Porto di Cesareo on the coast. This part of the trip was to view the sunset over the water. We had 2 hours there which was a long time. So we wandered along the beachfront, enviously watched the Italians in the water as we sweated in the 30 deg heat at 7pm. We had a gelato and watched the sun trying to set but it really hadn’t set before we were picked up again. It was a lovely area and it seemed that the attraction were the boats that were taking people out to a little island to swim.

Anyway it was a nice afternoon and at the end of it we were dropped back in Lecce, They were dropped off first and they are very rich so gave Antonio a very generous tip, he then had to take me to a point nearer my digs but I think he was so chuffed with the tip that he brought me to the door!!

Goodbye to my NBFs, Faye and Carole, until we meet up again in Melbourne!! (promises, promises ). As an aside, I don’t think it was a marriage made in heaven. Very Liberal Party, private school Melbournians. I can keep up for 3 days but beyond that????

Back in my large apartment I now have to give some thought to packing up. Back to Roma tomorrow. My friend Bev is in Rome and wants to meet up. I told Chris she had to come with me and she was very reluctant until I told her where Bev is staying…apparently it is gorgeous with an amazing roof top bar…Chris is somewhat more interested now!!

Another busy day in Lecce. Coffee first thing…they know me now!! Then I went to do a bit of shopping, just buying little things I like. I’m such a sucker for pottery/ceramics of this area but also mindful that I really can’t carry much. I enjoy the looking, it’s actually the only type of shopping that I do enjoy.

I’ve found this lovely park in Lecce where I can go and sit and regroup in the shade…it does get very hot traipsing around the streets. I was on a mission to find a restaurant that both H & A and the LPG had highly recommended. Of course I found it only to find it closed for some unknown reason and now time has run out so it isn’t to be.

When that was closed I went to another little Trattoria, Alle Due Corti, on the other side of town and had a most delicious lunch of chickpea pasta ( a specialty of the region) and it was totally and utterly delicioso. Its nice to sit in a trattoria having amazing food and a glass or two of vino. I then came home for my little break and then set off again.

I went to the Museo Faggiano which was recommended, but I wasn’t sure if I should tackle a museum or not. Well I’m glad I did because it was really amazing. It is an ordinary little house that they’d started to renovate to open a Trattoria. They then found that it was a stunning archeological site. And fascinating it was. It was an old Templar house and a convent dating from C10. There were secret passages for escape from the Ottoman invasion, deep pits where bodies were desanguinated and then buried. It was spooky as you walked into cave like rooms and over deep holes (covered in perspex). All in all a surprise and absolutely intriguing.

My Italian phone has run out of credit so I ran about town trying to find a ‘Tim’ store…and failed before it was time to meet my new BFFs for our drink and bruschetta. I raced off to meet them and we did indeed have a nice drink. They are now into wanting to know all about me and making the connections. They kept talking about their friend Jo and it turns out it’s Jo Pawson. They also know Sally Church, so we’re now BFFs forever!!!!

They want me to go on a sunset wine tasting tour tomorrow evening and I’ve agreed …why not? except that it costs me 60 Eu!! Its good to have people to do things with I guess. One more day here and then back to Rome.

My friend Bev is in Rome and has contacted me to see if we can catch up. I’ve said I’ll have time for a coffee only! Then its fly home Monday and I must say I can’t wait to see you all again.

Big day today touring around the Heal of Italy. I was up and off, stopping to get my coffee on the way and arriving at the meeting point, as usual, ahead of time. Here I was thinking they’d found one other person to make us a 3. I soon discovered we were 4 and I thought oh well, that’s OK too and then lo and behold we were 8!!! All in a van.

There were 4 Italians, 1 Argentinian and 2 other Aussies + me. As seems to happen with me the 2 Aussies were from Melbourne, my age and definitely the same socio-economic group. So we bonded!! I said to them I was sure it would take half and hour before we made connections with people we knew…rather discouraging them to try, but of course it happened. Anyway, I had my new BFFs for the day. The Italian group were rather sour and grumpy, something one could only ignore.

First stop Galatina to see the Basilica di Santa Caterina which is a beautiful Romanesque church with superb frescoes (by Francesco d’Arezzo). That was lovely.

Onward we then went to Gallipoli (not to be confused with the Turkey one we know so well), a lovely little town of winding streets full of shops for the tourist. We had an hour to wander around and see what we could see, even time for a cheeky coffee with my new BFFs, Faye (calls herself Sofia in Italy) and Cas.

We drove along the Ionian Coast to the very tip of the heal…a place called Santa Maria di Leuca…for the gorgeous views of the end of the heal and the place where the Ionian and Adriatic Seas meet.

We then commenced on up the Adriatic side to a place called Castro. Beautiful views along the way. I think the thing that strikes you every time about this countryside is the barren, stony land with grape vines, olive trees and cacti and cacti and cacti, all in stark contrast to the bright sparkling, iridescent blue of the Adriatic. There were people swimming all along the way, mainly perched on rocky headland, concrete platforms or stony beaches, none of which seems to matter in terms of the pleasure they get out of the sun and the sea.

We wandered around upper Castro with its castle (Aragonese) and its views, then finally, about 3pm, we went back down to the beach to a restaurant overlooking the sea to get some lunch.

Great restaurant, great seafood but fucking painful group of Italians who were stressing about whether anyone else was drinking their water and making sure the bill was split to the last glass of water. We Aussies were…’what the fuck’…we were the only ones who had wine and we tried very hard to engage the Italians to little avail. Maybe they were cross that they were stuck in the back of the van with no air!!!!

Last town after lunch was, I think, the jewel in the crown. It was Otranto. I loved it so much I want to go back there. I loved it for its cathedral with beautiful mosaics covering the floors. There was also a chapel with the walls covered on skulls and bones, the people who died taking refuge in the church when the Ottomans invaded. I also loved the Aragonese Castle but didn’t have enough time to explore it properly. I loved the terrace overlooking the sea and finally I loved the shops which were a step up from the touristy places of other towns. There was the best ceramic shop there I’ve seen but again I didn’t have the time to get anything.

Back to Lecce with plans to meet my new BFFs for an aperativo tomorrow but for tonight I bought some cheese and some prosciutto and have battened down for the night.

This time next week I’ll be home and dying to see you all but you’ll be at work!!! I think I’ll just have to swoop in on Lou and Max…!!!!

I think I’m starting to get a handle on Lecce now which makes me feel better. It was much less crowded today or at least I worked out how to avoid the crowds better…a bit of both I think.

First good thing this morning is that I went outside the old city and found myself a nice unpretentious bar where I could sit and have my coffee without a worry. I then went to the Castle of Carlo V and wondered around the impressive structure. It houses the tourist office so I went back there and confirmed that I would like to go on a trip around Salento should they be able to find a third person (They have rung me and said they have and I go off tomorrow for the day).

Then I went off in search of ceramic shops. The one I was looking for I walked around in circles trying to find, only to discover it is now closed permanently but I did find some lovely quirky little shops with the owners doing their own pottery. I’ll go back and have another look when I get a chance.

I also found the restaurant I was looking for last night…it is hidden away…and I booked a table for tonight. They are totally full but as long as I am out by 9pm they will feed me…that’s not hard for me.

I wandered the streets of Lecce, outside the main piazzas and well away from the Duomo. It was lovely, few people around and beautiful baroque buildings everywhere. Its like Venice…a splendid city overtaken by tourists at this time of year, but like Venice, if you move off the tourist trek it is quiet and totally beautiful. I went to the Basilica Santa Croce whose facade is famous for its very over-the-top ornate baroqueness. Unfortunately that same facade is being restored and is under scaffolding and a screen. Inside was interesting though and I lit a candle for Loris because today is her birthday.

I wandered narrow little streets til I dropped. Then I went back to the place I was last night, the one that wasn’t really a good place for dinner but great food for lunch. I sat there for a while then wandered again.

My strategy to get away from the crowds was to have an afternoon break when the tourists were at their peak. So here I am back in my lovely spacious pad having a break before I hit the streets again and go out for dinner. More later.

Back now for the night. There are definitely less tourists than yesterday. For some reason I think yesterday must have been the peak. Anyway I went out walking again before going to this much sought after restaurant. And yes I did have a very lovely meal. Really delicious actually, with a couple of glasses of wine, then I wandered back home. I think Lecce is a lovely town and probably one that deserves more time than I am able to give it.

Tomorrow its off on a little day tour of the coast, right down to the end of the heal. That should be interesting.

Here I am in Lecce. And I’m with the masses, all of whom seem to have descended on Lecce in anticipation of being with me.

But lets start from the beginning. Chris had to pick up a friend from the airport so we were up early and she dropped me at the train station on her way. So I was very early for my train. No problem sitting and having a nice cappuccino while waiting though. I got a special on the train ticket for over 60s and 1st class was the same price as 2nd which is where I usually am. Didn’t make a huge difference but it was less crowded. It was a 5.5hr train trip so less crowded was good!!

Anyway, no problems. I then walked to the airbnb from the station. Got a bit lost but nothing I couldn’t work my way out of. Anyway, I got here and it’s a lovely old house with vaulted ceilings etc. It has everything I could want and I can really spread out for the first time in 4 weeks…it feels quite luxurious.

I set off into the city and thats when the full wammy of the crowds hit me. I just wanted to have a wander around and find my feet, get my bearings, that sort of stuff. Which I did but the crowds were alarming. I hadn’t eaten all day but couldn’t find anywhere to sit, I poked my head into the cathedral…dodging large tour groups, kept walking and got a feel for the place. I do, however, think I have enough time to get to know Lecce in and around all the tourists and it will be fine.

But I was exhausted so I redirected myself to finding a supermarket, getting some vino and cheese and coming home for a bit of respite. The Nero D’Avola is a rough drop for 2 Eu, so I’ve gone up a notch to 4 Eu and it’s terrific.

I’ll head out again now and see what luck I have finding a nice place for a proper meal. I have a couple of recommendations so I’ll set off early to try to secure myself a spot.

I went to the tourist office when I got here and I asked about day trips along the coast here which is supposed to be gorgeous. They have a thing where a private driver will take people for 60 Eu if he has 3 people. They had one other and me and were going to ring me if they had a third but no word. Who knows ‘maybe later’.

Just been out to eat, not very inspiring so far, I obviously have to get into it. As I said I had 2 recommendations, one from Chris and one from the owner of this place. I couldn’t find the Chris one for love or money, I found the other but it was really only about cheeses and cold meats. I had a buffalo mozzarella with anchovies and the produce was so fresh and delicious, but not exactly a meal. So, as compensation I got myself my first gelato for the trip. Lecce is still just buzzing at night-time, people everywhere. I will just have to slot in. The other really noticeable thing is the number of young Africans down here. I guess that makes sense in terms of entry points.

I’m going to give up for the night now and go to bed, tomorrow is another day.

25th August 2018 Back to Roma

Today was back to Roma day…a long day!! We woke up to continuing and spectacular thunder and lightning and rain. We were definitely being told it was time to be on our way…the plague was upon us with jellyfish and tempest.

The struggle up the 80 steps and then the vertical walk with suitcases is fairly monumental but if I take my time everything can be achieved! My lovely (and I do love it) new suitcase is now scratched from being dragged up cement and rock steps but its all down to character! It was also raining and soaking us and I was stupid enough to wear thongs so had to ditch them in the end and go barefoot!!

Notwithstanding I made it. We stopped and had a coffee on the way into town, took the car back to the hire place and then had a couple of hours to fill in at the station waiting for our train. We had to change trains to get down to Rome which is a bit of a pain but all went well and here we are back in the apartment. We just went out to get a quick pasta and were both struck by how disappointing the food is after the delicious food of Trieste and surrounds.

Finally to bed after a big day. Tomorrow to sort out and wash the clothes before I set off again down to Lecce for the final hurrah!!

Last day… thats a sad thought but I guess its getting me closer to home and I do miss you all so much. Anyway, bathers on first thing and down for a swim. But I think there is some higher power at work because the water was full of little jellyfish. Now I hate these little buggers having been stung twice now and the sting is really painful and highly annoying. Anyway what can you do, you cant not have a swim on your last day so in I went but I didn’t stay too long in the water.

Then we went off up to the Karst again. We have become quite fascinated by the Karst with its little bi-lingual towns everywhere. You actually have no idea whether you’re in Italy or Slovenia most of the time. Someone had told Chris about a restaurant up there so we sat in the sun and had our wine and calamari and sardines for lunch (Rose has photos).

Then we wanted to find the winery where we had the delicious Vitovska wine in the restaurant yesterday. That was a process of multiple wrong turns and asking for directions but we found it. A remarkable little vineyard, Lupinc ,…only 4 hectares but provides wine to restaurants in Trieste, the Istrian Peninsula and beyond…20,000 bottles a year. A lovely young man who has taken over from his father. Anyway that was fun.

Then Chris had read about this place where thousands of Italians were thrown into a massive hole in this area of grottos. The communist partisans from Yugoslavia, with the help of Italian partisans, murdered them in their thousands. It wasn’t acknowledged until 1995 because it was an embarrassment but is now recognised and there is a large memorial and the covered top of the hole…really quite amazing.

By this time these massive black clouds were gathering (another sign our beach days were over), thunder was rumbling and lightning flashing. But Chris remained stubbornly obsessed with climbing the bloody lighthouse. I still had my bathers on and was dying for a wee after a long day. But off we went to try and find the lighthouse once again. It took 2 attempts even after all the previous attempts but we found it. I walked up to it but no way was going to climb it, so Chris went off. However, she discovered there was a lift so came and got me and up I went too. The wing was blowing, the lightning flashing and thunder thundering. Consequently they closed it after we went up…how lucky was that. If Chris had missed out again I think she would have cried.

Finally we’re back here, I’ve had a shower, and Chris is in talking to Mariella about our misdemeanours i.e. having some yanks to stay (a big misdemeanour) and further breaking an already broken door.

It’s clean up and pack up time and already I’m worrying about getting my case up the 80 steps and then steep climb to the top…slowly, slowly!! It really is a huge privilege to enjoy this place, it is one of the most beautiful, interesting and relaxing places on earth. There are endless things to see and do but at the same time you have the water at your doorstep…fantastic.

I’ll be sending the last 3 days of my tales when we get back to Roma tomorrow evening, that will be just too boring so ignore as you will.

XXXXXXX

P.S. All well with Mariella, no extra charge for the American invasion and the confession re door seemed to go OK.

Lazy morning at home. Doing the swimming bit. Then we set off to go to the favourite restaurant where we have been every year for the last 3 years Nero di Seppia. This diet is exactly what I could live on forever, seafood creatively combined with a variety of pastas. Delicious..with lovely wine and …yes…a desert!! We then came back home. A very hot day today so by the time we got down to the house we were both in a proverbial sweat….cured by changing back into bathers and jumping in the water. We had a very quiet afternoon with just prosciutto and cheese for tea. Chris has already gone off to bed and I’m just about to follow.