Category: Estonia

Another quick update for those who are happy to keep reading. Big big day today. I’m learning so much about this remarkable, fiercely independent country that seems to be flourishing in every way. A quick history lesson helps make sense of this independence and anti Russian feeling. They were taken over by Peter The Great back there then but had their War of Independence in 1918-1920 to get rid of the Russians. During the second WW they declared their independence but were occupied in 1941 by the Germans. Now here’s the deal, what do you do when you already hate the Ruskies and are caught between them and the Germans? A lot of their men actually joined the German army after occupation, largely, I gather, to try and keep the Russians at bay. Well, as we know that didn’t work well and they were once again part of the USSR from 1945 until 1991. Now again Russia looms large and there are protesters on the street yelling in Estonian but every now and again they burst into English for the benefit of the tourists and yell ‘Putin Evil’.

So…have I sent you off to sleep yet? My day today was a bit of a marathon for me. First a coffee, the most I’ve ever paid for a cappuccino in my entire life. 4 Eu (around $8) WTF!!! 

Then I went to the tourist office to try and sort myself out. I bought a Tallinn Card which gives me free public transport and free access to most sites. So the big ticket item is the Estonian Outdoor Museum. In my wisdom I decided to do that one first. Its outside the city so I had to find the bus which was a long way away and then work out where to get off the damn bus.  A bit nerve wracking but I got there. It is HUGE. They have transported original farm houses from the countryside onto this beautiful forested site and rebuilt them. From the days of the serfs through to the communes under the communists. It was fascinating but a lot, lot of walking and my feet were screaming when I finally found the bus to come back on then walked back into the old town.

Tomorrow will be a quiet day. But all good. I rewarded myself with a spritz when I got back…and I must say it was a very generous one, and well deserved. I also had a bowl of soup and then came home and collapsed in a heap. Once I was safely undercover it started to piss down so I was lucky to avoid that finale. The weather has been superb for travelling. Around 20ish. No need for emergency purchases of winter clothing. Until tomorrow.

To finish off last night. We did go out for dinner to a lovely restaurant outside the city walls. One of many advantages of having an ‘insider’ on your team is eating at the best restaurants where tourists just don’t go. We both had roast pork which was utterly delicious. 

This morning there was little time to do anything other than finish off packing and going for a morning coffee, walking to the taxi rank, saying goodbye and being transported out to the airport. Ciampino this time, a much smaller, dinkier airport. RyanAir to Tallinn. I was trying to objectively assess RyanAir and it’s true that it is much leaner and meaner. You take on one bag only and it has to go under the seat in front so there is absolutely nowhere for your feet to go, so you are scrunched up all the way. The seatbelts are also mean and lean which doesn’t suit me. But you survive these things. You are lined up on the tarmac in the blazing heat waiting for the plane to accept you. Up the stairs you go. But I must say they are efficient, left on time and arrived ahead of schedule. And, of course, they are cheap. Would I use them again? Yep, the cheap flights will get me every time!

Arrived Tallinn in one piece. Taxi driver very informative along the way. Everyone is anti Russia and supporting Ukraine…I asked if they were worried about Russia invading the Baltics (a modicum of self interest sneeked out!). Well he said, they have a very good position on the sea, but they have to live their lives and they are ready to fight!! I gave him a good tip!

To the Airbnb…a bit of a disappointment there. Much more rustic than quaint. A very pokey little place but its only for 5 nights and it has everything I need except somewhere comfortable for me to sit. Very basic for sure.

I didn’t stay there for long because I wanted to get a grip on the city. It is a most delicious city. I was expecting cold from what I had heard but it was lovely, balmy weather. I’m right in the middle of the old town and I wandered off to the main square. There are apparently less tourist than pre Covid so that’s a winner for me.

I just completely lost the last half hour of writing so I’ve lost my mojo!!

Anyway to finish off…the city is alive with people walking around in the warm, balmy evening. It is a truly beautiful city full of outdoor tables for all the bars and restaurants. There are enough art and craft shops to keep me happy for a lifetime and I sussed out the supermarket to get my wine. Albeit more expensive and more limited than either home or Italy. Then I found a restaurant and settled down to a glass of red and a nice ravioli. The restaurant was fully booked but they had 5 places at the bar where I sat with 2 Germans and 2 Russians and me and reflected on the weirdness of the world. Just outside the restaurant was a street full of protest posters against the Russian intervention in Ukraine. It was far too expensive for a lady traveller spending her kid’s inheritance…. But tonight it was a case of what the fuck…a lame solo traveller needs her rewards.

Its 10pm and still daylight. I’m not sure if it will ever actually get dark. More tomorrow. I miss everyone.