Settling down in Bologna

Well a fairly eventful 24 hours. I met up with my ‘boys’ last night at the grooviest venue in Bologna. They were straight into the Martinis and ready to set the world on fire. They really are awfully sweet and very inclusive of me which was nice. We sat down and ordered wine and some food. Another couple sat down next to us and they immediately set up a banter with them . She was from Germany and he was Swiss….they were totally delightful and the night ended up with all of us sharing the food and the wine. He was into snuff (the real deal, nothing elicit) and everyone was trying the snuff all night too. We had a delicious meal, drank 4 bottles of wine (not to mention the spirits the boys were putting away). Then another ‘boy’ turned up who had connected with Stephen on the internet. He was Chinese and studying at Bologna University, fluent in Italian. And I just loved him…he was obviously looking for a bit of gay action but he and I chatted away for ages and I think we’ll meet up for coffee again. I think it’s a bit tough for him in Bologna. Anyway I eventually left and managed to get myself home!!! I’m Facebook friends with them now and they are back in London. I saw the Swiss/German couple wandering around today and they said that they stayed a bit longer with the boys insisting on Gin and Tonics. They were very seedy today. That’s about as much excitement as I can endure per month.

This morning I had my cappuccino and decided I was going to conquer this bloody tower. So off I went only to find that there were too many people climbing it and they wouldn’t let anyone else up for a while. That was enough for me…I went and bought a Gelati instead and sat in the sun to eat it. I then pottered around a lovely art gallery for a while and came back home…a very sedate day for someone who set out to climb 500 steps.

Then tonight Giancarlo arranged for a group of people to go to this restaurant in the country for a Tartufo (Truffle) experience. There was him and his wife Fabrizia, his mother and father Vivianna and Enzo, his 2 kids Phillippo and Frederico and a couple from Florida who are also staying here for 2 months. It was an absolutely extraordinary meal with truffles on everything…gorgeous. It was a buzzing buzzing restaurant that is obviously very well known and popular. His parents are delightful, have travelled extensively, speak good English and were great fun. The Americans on the other hand I don’t think I have a lot in common with. Nonetheless a lovely experience. And Giancarlo paid for the lot.

No plans for tomorrow so who knows what it will bring. Daylight saving ends here tonight so winter will now set in with a vengeance as daylight disappears. Its starting to get a bit chilly so maybe I’ll have to invest in a bit more winter clothing.

Catching up on since arriving in Italy

Well another missive. I must say you’ll be getting really bored by my accounts of life in Bologna as less and less happens!!

But I’m in the habit of thinking I have to tell you this and that as I get around and there is a bit to tell today.

So here goes…I decided to set out early today and go to Ravenna…a long held desire of mine (mosaic’s you know!!). Got myself to the station, got myself a ticket, found the train (all of which are minor achievements) and got on. At departure time all the lights went off and the electronic departure board went down…guess what? Strike!! No trains going anywhere between 9 and 5. But no notification either so everyone on the train and ready to go. There were some pretty angry people I can tell you and I wasn’t one of them because it wasn’t life or death for me.

But then I had a day to fill ! So I backtracked to my ‘hood’ and went to ‘my’ coffee place and had my morning Cappuccino (actually she’s taken to giving me a Cappuccio which has a dash of chocolate…I don’t like it as much but she thinks she’s giving me a treat and I don’t have the heart to tell her I’d rather just a regular cappuccino). Then I thought, I should get my dinner for tonight so I went and bought some delicious looking stuff whatever it is in this wonderful little homemade shop in my street.
So, sorted for the night I decided I’d start to chase up Italian lessons. There is this place called Cultura Italiana that Giancarlo recommended as they often contact him for accommodation for students. So I set off…I can’t tell you how daunting it all is. I arrive at this Palazzo (Palace) , massive building with a massive closed door. On one of the little buttons is a small label…normally I’d run a mile but I can’t do that here I have to take the plunge. So I press the button and the door buzzes open. I tentatively walk up massive stairs in this cavernous building, peer around see a small sign and head for it. I walk in and there are classes all over the place, no idea where to go.
Someone points me up another flight of stairs and eventually I find a woman to give me information. Then she tells my I should sit in on a class to see what I think. Oh shit so there I am in a beginners class not understanding much at all. The thing is, and what is so different to my lovely class at CIS in Carlton, not a single one of the 8 students is a native English speaker. There are Spaniards (including the South American variety), Japanese, Chinese, French, Netherlands. So there is no common language other than Italian and that is absolutely all that is spoken…terrifying. It is shocking how overwhelming it is for me!!

Anyway thought I, I’m not here to admit defeat, at least not yet. So I’ve enrolled starting on 17th Nov because there isn’t a clear 4 weeks until I get back from Lyon for my Ham & Az treat. So…its 20hrs/week, 4 hrs/day for 4 weeks. INTENSIVE!!! Fuck a duck, if this isn’t insane I don’t know what is!!!

At least when I return from 4 days with H&A feeling totally bereft I’m sure I’ll have a very challenging project to get stuck into.

So I then need a glass of wine so I found a place to have lunch and I sat myself down to gather myself up.

Then I went to see one of the museums I haven’t seen only to find it was closed too, I think for the same reason the trains were on strike from what I gather…the problem with these things is that you climb massive flights of stairs before they tell you it’s closed!!

I then found a lovely courtyard to sit in the sun for a while. I rang Chris as she is struggling with an ever deteriorating Mishi and was trying to get into the Vet.
Then I decided I needed a coffee so found a place for coffee and sat down next to a couple of gay boys who turned around as soon as I opened my mouth and said Melbourne! They are from London but one of them has a father living in Kew so claimed he knew a Melbourne accent from 20 paces.
That was hilarious really. I heard the life stories including the death of one of their ex-partners during auto- erotic sex…we became very close very quickly!!! The other one was chatting up the gorgeous gay waiter while I heard this story!

Anyway they have invited me to dine with them tonight and (thinks I) what have I got to lose???
So I’m meeting them at Nu Lounge. I looked up the website…it is where Bologna’s ‘young, hip and beautiful’ meet…a chance to ‘rub elbows with Bologna’s beautiful people’…I mean what the fuck am I doing, honestly??? But I’m now committed to meeting them and maybe the waiter as well as one of the boys tries to get laid (they aren’t partners but friends, they both have partners back in London)!!!

Oh shit…and all of this in just one day, take 2 days and joining the Communist Party and honestly you’ll wonder how the hell you have let me loose.

I’ve come back to the apartment to catch my breath, have a quiet vino and contemplate my decision-making.

Ciao for now dears

Catching up on since arriving in Italy

Sorry about last night’s missive but I’m already pulling myself together again. I’ve just finished downloading the 4th season of Game of Thrones, thinking I needed some entertainment. I also bought some vino to help provide some cheer.

Its been a big day of chasing around all day after this fucking Permisso but at the end of the day I may have got somewhere. I found some office somewhere that have given me an appointment for Monday to help me lodge the forms. Great I thought …but have been tick tacking with Chris all day and she informs me that what I found was the Communist Party and they are probably going to get me to join!!!!! At huge cost! However Chris says it is good to proceed with this and they can be helpful, so hopefully it will work.

The office didn’t open until 2pm and I was there at about 9.30…so time on my hands!! I went to the train station (which wasn’t far away). This is a nightmare of a place that is incredibly confusing and after Annie and Bob were there yesterday Annie suggested that I should go there and wander around orienting myself before it was an imperative and I needed to catch a train. Which I am considering doing any day now to go to Ravenna or Padova. I did this and I think it was a very good suggestion. It just gives you a bit of confidence without the pressure.
Then I the second of many cappuccinos. Then I decided that the MAMbo (Modern Art Museum of Bologna) was also in the right direction and so I spent a couple of hours there before I went back to this office.

It was amazing…just crammed with African/ Asian etc people looking to stay in Italy. I could hardly get in the door and thought for sure I was in the wrong place but they are taking me on so I’ll give it a try.

I had in the days game plan to buy a lasagna I’d seen in the deli type place behind the apartment. I’d seen it in the window in the morning and thought that would be good for tea but when I got back there the buggers had closed. Its impossible to work out the hours the Italians open, there is no rhyme or reason to it. So to the local coop where they have all manner of fresh pasta.

Back here around 4 with tired legs but not feeling too badly. I’ve decided, as Rose said, that I have to adjust to a change of pace. I’m so used to go, go, going. There is much to do around here, its a matter of having a bit of a plan each day. I’m thinking I might go to Ravenna tomorrow. This has been a longtime desire of mine to get there for the mosaics. I’ll see…then its the weekend again and Bologna just buzzes at the weekend so might just cruise around here then. Anyway, all good.

Lots and lots of love, including to the crew of the Calamia who are part of my much loved reading public!!!

PS I forgot to say in my missive that Giancarlo has organised a dinner on Saturday night at a restaurant outside the city. It is a festa for the Truffle because it is truffle season so this place is apparently preparing truffle dishes. He has also invited a couple from Florida who are staying in one of his apartments (not sure how many this guy has but he must be very rich!!). That should be nice, if only because the Truffles are to die for!!

Re: Catching up on since arriving in Italy

I guess predictably, this is a rather shitty day. I’m in a bit of a hole wondering why I’m alone in Bologna not knowing what to do next.

But first, yesterday…a lovely day in Bologna with Annie and Bob. Annie climbed the 500+ steps up the tower while Bob and I sat at the bottom and had a Cappuccino!!

We then took off to a museum we really wanted to go to only to find that it was closed. So we explored another couple of museums that we probably wouldn’t have otherwise gone to….they were gorgeous and we loved them. We found a lovely little Trattoria for lunch.

After the days walking Bob decided he couldn’t let Annie climb the tower and not do it himself so up he went while Annie and I sat at the bottom and had an Aperol Spritz. We then went out and had a lovely farewell dinner in a lovely restaurant that Giancarlo recommended.

So…all very nice but the bubble had to burst and Annie and Bob trotted off this morning leaving me to fall in a heap of loneliness and homesickness.

This was exacerbated by a few things. Annie and Bob had hooked up a lovely little clothesline in the little courtyard which was perfect. I had stripped their bed and put the sheets out to dry. But Giancarlo rang to say the other occupants of the building had complained about washing being outside. That’s not a good feeling. He came over and picked it up saying I shouldn’t be doing big washing (very nicely).

Then I had to set off to try and work out how to get my Permisso di Soggiorno. This just seems like an impossible task!! I’ve walked all afternoon being directed from one place to the next and no-one knowing what to do. The post office was supposed to have the application and instructions but after going from pillar to post and finally getting to the central post office… they were out of the forms so try this other place…..no luck. blah, blah. I’ll try again in the morning but the way I’m feeling at the moment they can stick their permisso and I’ll get on a plane.

Anyway, I’ll pick myself up, I’m sure.

Catching up on since arriving in Italy

Its all been a bit overwhelming in the last 5 days or so since I left Bucharest last Wednesday.That was an exhausting day getting myself and my massive luggage to the airport. I was absolutely shitting myself that they wouldn’t let me on the plane, so convinced was I that I was massively overweight in the luggage department. I’d even packed with things on top I could throw away…the triple stripes were going but fortunately got a reprieve because the big bag was only 20.8kgs and he waved my little bag through without weighing it (it probably weighed 20 kgs!!!!).

Anyway up, up and away!! Got to Roma, lined up to enter the Schengen…the really big deal that required a visa etc and you wouldn’t believe it but he waved me through and didn’t even stamp me in!! I was aggrieved. What this means is that they have no record of my entry and therefore I probably don’t need a visa…oh well!!

On to the bus to get myself and my luggage into the Central Station where Chris was meeting me. As happens with my dear friend Chris I waited on a street corner for ages until she finally showed up having gone somewhere else. By this time it was 11pm and the station was a very seedy place to be.
Luggage to ‘left luggage’ and then home for some wine and a late night Christina-type chat. It was really great to see Chris and have a friend at last. The next morning we went to have our cappuccino and fresh orange juice followed by a walk over to Trastevere where Chris got me a phone and an Italian phone number…all good.

She went off to work and I just stayed home to get myself a bit organised til she came home, then we went out and had dinner at a lovely little restaurant with a garden where we sat under the vine leaves and had a most delicious meal.

Sadly and very quickly it was goodbye to Chris again in the morning early…but not so early we couldn’t have our cappuccino.
As I told you I’d had a bad start with Bologna because the people who were in my apartment had got their wires crossed…or Giancarlo had got his wires crossed and they weren’t leaving until the day after I arrived. There was a lot of haggling around this and I gave in on Chris’ advice that it was better to have him in my debt. So we stayed the first night in a different apartment which had a few good spin-offs for me. Firstly, as predicted, Giancarlo was feeling badly and therefore decided to pick me up from the train station which was a godsend. Secondly it was Annie’s 60th birthday a few days previously and I got him to recommend a restaurant and book us in…so all good. The apartment was HUGE and divine and very close to where I am now. But the ‘real’ apartment is much smaller and a bit crowded for 3 people.

I got there with an hour to spare before I had to head back to the Train Station on foot to meet Annie and Bob. In that hour I ran out and got some Procseco and cheese to greet A & B. Met them at the station which was absolutely lovely. We then had a few drinks and nibbles, then went out to dinner that night which was just lovely…really lovely. Superb food…I had a Truffle Taglietelle which was absolutely to die for. Shavings of Truffle covered the pasta and the flavour was superb. Giancarlo had told them it was Annie’s birthday so at dessert time out came a birthday cake and she got an Italian Happy Birthday which really was nice for her. So that was a gorgeous night.

Then the last 3 days have been exploring Bologna. It is a most lovely city with treasures and history like Rome but without the hoards of tourists. It really is a lovely city..I wish you could all share it with me. No use going into too much detail but churches, artwork, sculpture etc. A busy and windeing market/ shopping area. At the weekends the roads are blocked to traffic and the people of Bologna are outdoors with a vengeance walking the streets which are alive and just buzzing. It is a student town and very young in feel.

It is dominated by these 2 towers one of which you can climb but its nearly 500 stairs…I’ll think about that one. I remember climbing the Cupola of St Peters some 10 years ago and it is over 500 steps, so maybe I’ll give it a go one day but I’ll have to build up to it.

It’s been nice having Annie and Bob here and I’m now starting to gear up to being alone again and wondering how I’ll manage that. I’ll have to cook!!!!!

Its been very hectic in the last few days and the process of starting a normal type life here will have to begin all too soon. This will be crunch time. I’ll have to think about Italian lessons!! There are bikes here but they don’t seem to fit me at all and my attempt to ride one of them has left me feeling very daunted.

Bob spilt a full cup of coffee on the carpet which has left a stain despite massive attempts to get it all up…thats somewhat awkward and I think I’ll have to fess up to it to Giancarlo which will change the balance of power once again!! Bob is hilarious…he just cannot manage to find his way anywhere and gets hopelessly lost. Today we allowed him to come back to the apartment alone…big mistake!! Annie got a desperate phone call from him to say he was lost! Honestly I’m not sure how he manages it because this is a small and very manageable town.