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Heading down the Rhine

Now where was I ? I seem to have solved my internet problem…hotmail blocked me because they detected unauthorised use…once I knew that I worked out what to do.

I think I had just finished my evening with Heinz and Ursel. Lots of talking, eating and drinking. The theme has well and truly continued…so much so that I have to leave these German people behind me or I won’t fit on the plane to come home.

The next morning Jurgen, Carmen and Andrea came to pick me up at Heinz’s house (Jurgen and Carmen are Josie’s parents and Andrea is Joop’s mum). They scooped me up and continued where Heinz and Ursel left off…doing everything they could for me and not letting me pay a cent. We drove from Bad Homburg along the Rhine through beautiful little villages with vines climbing steeply up from the river on both sides and autumn leaves all around. We stopped and wondered through villages of ancient German houses and narrow streets. How could you not love Germany?? We had a really delightful afternoon that culminated at the bakery of Josua’s grandmother and uncle…OMG…this was extraordinary. We had coffee and cake there…everyone got a different type of cake and I tried them all (a bit of everyone’s that is, not a piece of each cake…not that bad, yet!!). I met Josua’s grandmother who is so sweet and so missing Josua. Every time his name was mentioned her eyes filled with tears. I also met Jana at this point, Josua’s sister who I have to say is a most beautiful girl.

After this orgy of cake we went to their village Osterspai. This is where it got slightly embarrassing because they clearly didn’t have room for me at home and had booked me into a tiny hotel around the corner…wouldn’t let me pay a cent either. Well there was no point in being too embarrassed, I was in the thick of it so I dumped my bags there and then we all went out to dinner i.e. Jurgen, Carmen, Andrea, Jana and I. To a lovely rustic little restaurant on the Rhine. We sat outside under vine leaves (despite the cold which wasn’t too bad) and ate German meets, salads, cheeses and drank 3 bottles of great German wine between Carmen, Jurgen and I that is….oh dear!! We tottered home along the lovely streets of the village and I peeled off at my little hotel.

This morning Jurgen came around to get me at 8.30. I went to their house and gave them all the gear I’d transported from Australia. Then guess what….off to the bakery for breakfast. It was full on (as breakfast had been with Heinz and Ursel as well)…meats, breads in many shapes and forms, cheeses, jams, eggs, juice, coffee etc. I don’t normally eat breakfast but I’m doing it for the team (Team Australia that is) and acquitting myself quite nicely. Poor Josua’s grandmother was given the letter Josie had written her and she was a mess!! Then Jurgen and Carmen whisked me off for a whistlestop tour of Koblenz. We walked along the Rhine, saw where the Rhine and the Mosel Rivers met and then walked around the old part of town which was lovely. Koblenz was almost entirely destroyed during WWII so they’ve done a wonderful job of rebuilding. Often the facade would remain in tact with everything behind gone…and now rebuilt.

They then took me to the train station, put me on the train said our goodbyes. Sitting on the train to Cologne I suddenly felt very alone after a whirlwind few days of amazing German hospitality. Still I couldn’t keep eating and drinking at that pace, not even me!! Arrived in Cologne and miraculously found my hotel by wandering around aimlessly. I decided to take a break to catch up with you all and now I’ll head out to explore the town a bit and try and work out how to get a German SIM.

2 nights here and then off to Hamburg. Lots and lots of love until tomorrow. Is my photo stuck up on the side of Louis’ cot???

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The German adventure begins

What a massive day it was yesterday, but full of pleasant surprises. It was up at 2.30am, out waiting for the shuttle bus at 3am…and lo and behold it arrived at 3.15. Got to the airport with time to spare. Luggage went through uneventfully, planes ran uneventfully and I landed in Frankfurt. Heinz rang to say he was outside waiting for me and then I waited…and waited and waited for my luggage. Finally I had to go to Luggage tracing and surprisingly they found it. It had been put on the wrong conveyor belt. Poor Heinz!!

So we got home here to Bad Homburg. Ursel was waiting with the 2 grandchildren who are actually divine little smart bilingual (actually tri) kids. We had a yummy German lunch which included apple cake!! Then Heinz took me out touring this town and herein was the next surprise. It is absolutely divine. There are beautiful gardens surrounding the town that used to be park of the Royal summer residence. The trees are in full autumn splendour and the walks are superb. There is a most heavenly old part of town with a Schloss (mandatory) and we walked and walked until I was nearly dead. It was such a lovely afternoon. It is very relaxed with Heinz, much more so than I thought it would be.

Then we came home and had a dinner of, again, very simple but yummy german food with cheeses, salads, wursts etc. We drank lots of white wine and sat up into the night…about a 21 hour day for this old girl. Heinz got in touch with Josua’s father. They have taken 2 days off work and are driving 1.5 hrs to come and get me this morning. They are picking up Joop’s mum to come along too and are to take me along the Rhine etc. No more rent from those dear boys Ang!!! I write this quickly before going up (I have a full apartment in the basement of the house here…all very lovely)to breakfast.

More tonight. Lots of love to everyone. Hi Calamarians…hope you are getting this.

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Final day in Rome

Just to finish up in Rome before I pack the computer away until Germany. What a truly delightful day it was. Sunshine, warmth and fun. We set off this morning for Livia’s country house. I’d already seen frescoes from there and after yesterday was so interested to see it. We hadn’t booked but went on the off chance given that it is only open for one day a month. We got into an Italian tour and it was fabulous. In a delightful country setting where you could feel the life of Livia and Augustus as they retreated to the country over the summer. I latched onto a priest who was translating the tour for an elderly American couple so didn’t miss out on much. Frescoes and mosaics again made me happy in warm Autumn sunshine. Heaven.

I told Christine that if she wanted to really make my day she had to find me a restaurant for lunch where I could eat in a garden setting…and fuck me if she didn’t come up with just that. We drove along a dirt road and came to a wonderful restaurant in the countryside. A most interesting drive on the way there with the road lined with prostitutes…you know me…fascinated!! Then we sat outside drank wine and ate a most delicious meal. I had a divine rabbit that I loved. Then a couple of rather wild, rather drunk old ladies drove back into Rome. Great day all in all. Tonight we have one of Chris’ friends coming over for dinner for Spaghetti Vongole (clams)!!
I’m busy packing now to be ready to hop straight into bed. I’m being picked up by Shuttle Direct at 3am no less…terrifying thought. Definitely a no sleep night. Heinz has rung me and will be at Frankfurt Airport to pick me up. Then I’ll get him to ring Josua’s family and arrange a pick up for the next day.
That’s it for now. More wine and more food for dinner tonight!!
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On the road again (pt 2)

Yesterday was a full and exhausting day. After coffee Chris and I went off to the market which is always fun. We sat in the sun and had a wine and a delicious pork roll and then I set off for my appointment to see Augustus’ and Livia’s Houses. Well that really was amazing. Such beautiful colours and frescoes, I was mesmerised. Loved it. Then there is this ancient Byzantine Church that they have just restored and opened to the public for a limited time period. It is down in the Forum, so off I went to see that and again loved it. There’s nothing like a good fresco I say!! My hip is holding up well and I ascended right up a massive climb to the balustrade for the view over the Forum and Rome. Then I walked back home, at which point I was ready for the ambulance to come and take me up the stairs to Chris’…but alas it didn’t arrive and somehow or another I lived!!

But not to end there Chris had booked for us to go to a 3D display thing at the Ara Pacis. This is a fabulous carved monument Augustus had done to celebrate peace. I’d seen it before and it is an amazing piece of work but it was once in magnificent colour and of course now there is no sign of the colours. So we donned 3D glasses with a kind of computer attached and we saw it all in its original splendour. Fabulous really although at times technologically challenging. We walked there and back so at the end of the day I was totally exhausted. We came home and ate the produce of the days market shop and drank copious amounts of wine.
Today will be a quieter day (hopefully). Chris has a friend arriving this afternoon so we’ll probably have dinner with her. Then I have a few short hours to doze before I have to be picked up for a 6.30 flight. I have booked Shuttle Direct and
I’m guessing pick- up will be 3.30…how stupid was I to book this flight!! Off for coffee. Will write again soon.
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On the road again

Here I go again, not that there’s much to say really but I need to get back into the habit of recording the life and times of an elderly adventurer…so, I’ve poured myself a glass of wine, sat myself down and started to rattle around thoughts…finding that thus far there isn’t a lot to rattle except the comfort of being back somewhere so familiar and easy. But back to the beginning:

The flight was an absolute breeze…best one ever with an empty seat next to me on both legs…couldn’t ask for more really. Jet lag was non-existent and life just proceeded without much of a blip except I have the mandatory post flight cold but so far even that isn’t exceptional. Chris met me at the airport and we went to a restaurant by the sea and partook of wine and nibbles (calamari and octopus). Thats about all it takes to feel as if you’ve never left. We came home, drank some more wine and had a good nights sleep.

Yesterday we started with the morning coffee…honestly as I keep saying cheap wine and coffee will keep me happy every time. Then i went off to do some chores like get my Italian phone back on line, buy some reading glasses and other small things all of which entailed a lot of walking around Rome and absorbing the city. I came back to have lunch with Chris before she went off to work, then I went out again and got my hair cut, watched the world go by in Piazza Navona, wandered a bit more and came home.

Today is Friday and I took myself off this morning to go back to Monti where I stayed last time and had such fond memories of. Sadly Monti has just about out cooled itself. My coffee shop was transformed into a mecca for tourists and charged accordingly. My Gelati shop (do you remember me raving about the pear and ricotta gelato that was to die for???) had been taken over and was selling mass produced crap. My ravioli shop was still there thank god, and I had lunch there…that was lovely. I bought a serve of take-away ravioli to bring back for Chris but the sauce oozed out on the way home so it won’t be much good!! Then I walked home from Monti slowly, stopping and watching the world go by at regular intervals.

I have a treat in store tomorrow…I’ve finally been able to book myself into Livia and Augustus’ Houses on the Palatine. I’ve been badly wanting to do that and was very jealous of Ang and Kirst who went when they were in Rome. So tomorrow I get to finally achieve that wish all being well. Then Chris and I are booked into a 3D exhibition of (and at) the Ara Pacis which will be amazing.

Time in Rome is speeding by and Germany awaits. This will be new territory and probably more interesting stories to tell. Not to say that Rome isn’t interesting, it’s just so….well…. comfortable (that word again) these days!!!

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Final missive from Melbourne

So it’s all over. Did it even happen? Feels all a bit surreal sitting at my computer from downtown Caulfield.

Since last time I wrote I’ve had my final day in Roma, packing and repacking, having my haircut so I go home looking chic! Having my fill of coffees and wine and feeling the cobblestones under my feet.

Chris and I went out for a fabulous final meal at Casa Gleve, a rather more up-market restaurant in Rome with the most delicious food in a fantastic old mansion, family run with the Mama cooking. They love Chris so we got very special treatment and a very discounted bill.

The next day it was coffee and get ready to go really. I’d ordered the Shuttle to get me to the airport. The timing was a bit tight but when the shuttle was late, and then later, I was in a real panic. But long story short, it got there and I got there. Late enough to be able to walk straight up to the Emirates counter with my super heavy case.

It was 30.2kg but they were happy to let it through albeit with a ‘heavy’ sticker. It was a dream flight, the connection in Dubai was perfect and I was in Melbourne 21.5 hrs later.

Of course it was a joy to see Rose, Ang and Kirst waiting for me. Home to bed, good nights sleep and really back to normal. No jetlag whatsoever…very lucky!! There is nothing like your own bed, pillows and a shower that feels massive!! In fact everything feels spacious…a big house, a big garden, wide streets, great big horrible cars everywhere, big distances to places, for simple things like a coffee, the supermarket etc.

The best thing is catching up with family and friends and being reminded (as if you need a reminder) of how precious they really are. Going down to the beach and looking out over Melbourne and being reminded (as if you need a reminder) how much you love this city.

There is so much I will miss not the least of which are Ham and Ariane until they finally get back, and Chris, until she gets her act together to get out here…and the morning coffee, the slow infusion of wine, the food, the joy of life…..and so on.

Now I focus on what I’ve avoided to date…the old ‘what the fuck do I do now’.

Goodbye from this blog/email/missive…I think I’ll even miss this daily reflection…and thanks for reading so loyally.

Signing out until next adventure.

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Arrivederci Bologna

Now back in Roma for what really is now the last hurrah.

The last few days in Bologna were a bit of a blur of dentist chairs and really not doing much except soaking up the city. The sun shone on Sunday and Monday so I did a bit of sitting in the sun. All went to plan tooth-wise and everyone was happy. All clear given on Monday afternoon to finally book the ticket back to Roma. On Tuesday (yesterday( new crown) sparkled, everyone pleased and Fabrizia asked me to go out to dinner to eat Sushi with her and her sons. Giancarlo doesn’t like Sushi so wasnt invited. It was a foul day weather-wise, it was pissing down all day and I’d drowned a couple of times but I went, enjoyed the meal, then said a final goodbye. They have been so good to me Giancarlo and Fabrizia,they really have been a dream team…great accommodation and perfect teeth!!

I’d emailed Giancarlo to say I would leave the apartment at 10am Wed/today. He sent an email back to say bon voyage!! Of course I was secretly hoping he’d say I’ll take you to the station! But no worries, give me enough time and walking with 2 suitcases and a massive parcel of tortellini Chris had ordered is no problem. But then in the middle of the night the rain started to pour down and I lay awake thinking shit, shit, this is going to be a nightmare. But honestly at 7.30am a txt came through from Giancarlo to say he would pick me up. Bless his cotton-picking heart!!

Another train trip with massive cases, it really does test me but it always seems to work out. Most of the time people help me and when they don’t I just heave-hoh. I even got on the bus to get to Chris’. Then, for the final time, lump the cases up the steps to her apartment. Always great to see Chris. She had lunch all laid out for me before she had to leave for work. As I’ve said before I’ll miss her very much.

Note for Angus and Kirst: Chris tried to get me into Augusta and Livia’s house but all booked out. I’m still mad that you saw the one thing I’m still dying to see.

I’ve spent the afternoon going through all the gear I will be trying to get back to Australia. For the first time I’ve pulled together all the stuff I’ve left in Rome and the stuff I’ve collected along the way. At first evaluation I’ll be throwing away one hell of a lot of stuff in order to just get on the plane.

Oh well…nice night at home tonight with Bolognese Tortellini on the menu when Chris gets home from work.

I think one more email if I’m lucky and then silence from me!!

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It’s not all about teeth you know!!

Thursday….to the dentist after seeing Chris off. This time the good new…the report on the full XRays…good, excellent, no other major problems visible…phew. So if they were able to finish this crown it would all be good with nothing to follow up in Australia. But all still very uncertain at this stage. It was a quiet night!

The next day, Friday, it was another 2.5 hours with the specialist dentist (Lorenza) but….breakthrough!! She has been able to create a new canal so everyone was happy, then it was go go go…phone calls, negotiations, trying to get the work done before I leave. They decided to miss the step of the temporary crown. They reshaped the crown they took off to use as the temporary crown and all efforts were directed to the permanent..still not sure but hoping to get it all done to finish up on Wednesday.

Home from the dentist to await the arrival of Ham and Az!! It was Friday night and I was anxious to let the fun begin and to forget the dentist for a while. It was great to see H&A again, they were even a little earlier than I expected which was great. After settling in we hit the town, wandered around allowing me to proudly show off the city I had grown to love. Coming back and showing people around it has really consolidated my love for this lively, youthful, and beautiful city. We ended up in a Piazza for aperativos… H&A really know the meaning of aperativo, ordering martinis and ‘Gibsons’ while I stick with a Spritz. Then on to the restaurant I have always taken my visitors to….Osteria di Poeti. It never fails to please and it did again on Friday night. Yummy food and a lovely ambience. We all drank to much and Hammy and Ariane will swear I was ‘unsteady’ on the way home, this of course is significantly exaggerated.

Saturday was spent just exploring Bologna, sorting out parking issues with H&A’s car, having morning coffee, wandering around the market streets, fitting in the mandatory church with wonderful terracotta sculptures, picking up some lunch, picking up a gelato, having a bit of an afternoon rest and then fitting in another couple church’s. Back to the aperativo place for some more (I stuck with wine this time). At this point we parted company as I went to Fabrizia and Giancarlo’s apartment for dinner and H&A hit the lively streets of Bologna on a Saturday night. My night was OK…the good news was that the technicians had been working on my crown on Saturday and had got it ready so it’s all systems go.

When H&A got back after their night out we had a final drink together and some little cakes they had brought home. It was our final little ceremony.

This morning after everyone had got ready, bags were packed and loaded into the car in the nearby carpark, we went for a coffee and said our goodbyes….

Of course I was / am sad, isn’t it the way I am? And this time I won’t see them until they are back in Melbourne, hopefully in the first half of 2016. I’ve been a bit lost for the rest of the day, feeling a bit empty and wishing now that I could wiggle the nose and be at home. But no, there’s still a tooth to finally fix, Roma to revisit briefly and another goodbye to Chris, who I will also miss. But tomorrow starts my final week in Italy…what I think about that is unknown, even to me.

Lots of love to those of you with the extraordinary loyalty to have read this for the past year.

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A life focussed on teeth!!

More disasters in the dental chair yesterday and some doubt about whether or not they will have time to get the permanent crown installed. But let me go back to the morning when I went up to the station to pick up Chris, have a quick cup of coffee and head to the dentist. Chris had a check, XRays, a clean, while I,on the other hand, went in to my chamber of horrors which actually did turn into a chamber of horrors. Lorenza (the reconstruction specialist) spent 3.5 hours trying to find and clear the root canal because that is the only way to secure a cap on the tooth. But it was calcified and after 3hrs of drilling she hadn’t finished. There is now a strong possibility they won’t be able to finish the work. As for my trip to Vicenza scheduled for today, Fabrizio wants me to come and see her to discuss the rest of my XRays…a terrifying prospect.

I know how completely uninteresting this dental thing is but it is so all- consuming its hard not to indulge it with description. However, after that was all over and Christine was feeling very pleased with herself after a good report. She just has to come back once more for a few minor replacements and to get her guard (we both now are getting guards…insisted upon in this part of the world…and we both agreed implementable only because there are no lovers!!!! Anyway, we then went out and about on the town, wandering the streets, having a Spritz and finally going out for dinner. Nice evening all in all and great to have Chris here for the night.

This morning it was coffee and then up to the station again to see Chris onto the train, then home to await the time to front at the dentist again. More hours of drilling tomorrow…am I obsessed????

I’ll keep you informed!!

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Back where I started.

Well it is time to come home, this is becoming clearer and clearer. Not that I don’t love being back in Bologna, I do. It feels so nice and so like coming home. As I walk the streets I recall times enjoyed here with Rosa and with Annie and Bob, I’m welcomed back to my favourite haunts and know exactly where to go for what. It really is a wonderful town that isn’t inundated by tourists, is full of character and has a wonderful ‘life’ about it. It bubbles over with students and when I arrived so late last night without having eaten, to go out into the streets on a Monday night, and find them full of young people, music spilling out of venues and no shortage of places for a glass of wine and a bite to eat. I remember a year ago when it was my first stop I described it as a bit seedy with people sleeping rough, lots of refugees and people begging on the streets. Now that I’ve spent time in Palermo, Napoli, Genova, it feels positively gentile but the huge energy and youth of the city distinguishes it from Lucca.

BUT…it’s 18 fucking degrees, just like it was a year ago, but this time I’m not equipped for winter and I know the sunshine is waiting for me in Melbourne. Also, 2 hours in the dentist chair today meant finding horrors under the crown Fabrizia is replacing. Thank god she picked it up though…it is major and will cost double what I had budgeted. I had XRays today and she showed me exactly what was there. I’m terrified of what review of all the XRays will reveal. I think I have been neglected and neglected myself for a long time!!. Tomorrow basically all day in the dentist chair while they construct something on which to put a crown…oh fuck!!! But I do think I’m very lucky to be in Fabrizia’s hands. I think I have to find a new dentist when I get home…preferably an Italian!!!! As well as an annual trip to Fabrizia I think!!

Chris is arriving in the morning for a consultation with Fabrizia too, she will stay the night and it will be great to sit over a bottle of wine and catch up again. I had intended to go to Vicenza for the day on Thursday because it was the only day without a dental appointment but I have been told that I may be required every day while they fast-track major works. Some recontructionist (not Fabrizia) is spending 2-3hrs with me tomorrow…can you believe it????

Ham and Ariane arrive on friday for a final farewell for many months, all of which adds to the feeling of heading home. I’m in a different apartment this time and it certainly is rather lovely with everything I could possibly want (confirming the presence of a washing machine my dear H&A), but further to walk for my morning coffee!!.

10 days to go now and I know it will fly. I will continue to keep you up to date with the horrors of sitting in the dentist chair. I have TV with Al Jazeera and BBC News…that, I consider positively spoilt!!