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Japan, Part 1

No Wifi in Tokyo so making some notes to transfer when possible. What an adventure Japan is. Its a challenge and it certainly keeps you on your toes working out where things are, how things work, not to mention the whats and the whys!!

June 10th 2017:

Arrived at 7.30 pm and we were tossed into chaos. How to get to our hotel was the first challenge. The busses didn’t go there and contrary to expectation there wasn’t too much polite helpfulness. In the end we decided to get on a train to Tokyo Station and then a taxi. We bumbled around trying to find the right ticket office and eventually got ourselves onto a train. I must say I’m happy not be travelling alone. It’s great to have Rose working things out with me (you will of course not believe that we aren’t fighting every step of the way, and of course you’d be right but its still very good to have her). The train took for ever and we didn’t arrive at Tokyo until 10pm. Into a taxi and we got to the Ginza Creston. (Rose insists that I say that I bowed to the taxi driver and said Obrigato getting my Portuguese mixed up with my Japanese…but I’ve refused to add these small details). We were exhausted. Too exhausted to go out for food and the hotel didn’t have any food so we completely decimated the mini bar…to the extent that I even opened (and ate) the M&Ms.

Then my first attempt at working out how to use the loo. Being a blind old lady I had to put my glasses on and peered over the buttons. I pressed a button and got a mouth full of water. All down my shirt front and soaked my crotch. I screamed while Rose remained completely impervious and stony faced…despairing of her dotty old mother.

We were both exhausted and fell into bed. Oh yes and the view from the hotel room was totally spectacular looking over the river.

Sunday June 11th

The first thing was breakfast at the hotel. Predictably I had the Japanese breakfast and Rose the Western breakfast. Both were crappy really. My disappointment with the Japanese one was that there wasn’t anything fresh. Anyway we set off with the main mission of getting ourselves sorted. It was a frustrating day walking in multiple circles and ending up totally exhausted and (me in Particular) foot weary. I now have blisters taped up as per usual in my first days of travel (memories of Iceland!!!). Anyway. we packed up and got a taxi back to Tokyo Station where we (eventually) found lockers to put our cases in (that is another story of Rose and I unravelling with each other.…suffice to say I was right!!) We then went and got our JR passes to start on Thursday with our purchase of a ticket to Takayama. Then we wanted to get a subway pass for multiple days and were sent on a wild goose chase of mammoth proportions. Round and round and up and down we went. We stopped for a coffee (Italian style) and I confess to a great big trifle which I ate under a barrage of criticism (perhaps justified) from the Buddha….keeper of all the moral rights except when it comes to beers and crap western food.

Then we walked around the Imperial Palace gardens and Rose decided she was hungry. So we set off again. She found a “Imperial Bar”. That was something of a mistake. She had a western style chicken toasted sandwich and a beer. I could go on and on…but suffice to say we spent a fortune and really hadn’t got ourselves into the Japanese modus operandi at this point.

After lunch was really the best part of the day because walking back to the station we stumbled across these wonderful ‘old town’ alleyways with lovely old buildings and fabulous restaurants. That was great. Then it was back to pick up our cases and find the train ( after working out the subway ticket we wanted to meet our needs) to get to our Airbnb. We found it but not without a few hiccups). We came in past large signs saying that Airbnb is forbidden in this building and legal action will be taken). We got up to the apartment and, well, its OK but for the first time we discovered no WiFi which was shattering. We gathered ourselves and went out to find urgent supplies of alcohol…no problem there. Then out to find somewhere to eat.

The area we are in is great…a really lively area full of restaurants and people. We found a great restaurant and for the first time felt as if we were experiencing Japanese life. We had a great meal in a restaurant full of people who spoke not a word of English. We had yummy food beer and wine and have come home satisfied. Rose has a day planned out for us tomorrow in another area of the city with a cultural vibe so I’m happy.

Time for bed and Rose is busily organising the tiny apartment so she can get as far away from me as possible.

General observations to date: Japan is incredibly homogenous. No (although as soon as I said this we saw 4 woman tonight) hijabs, no black people, few white tourists compared to other countries such as Italy. No homeless, no refugees and somehow so detached from the perils of the Western world.

We are off to bed.

Monday 12th June

Today Rose had a great day planned in and around the Ueno area. It was a day full of promise. The area is the cultural hub of Tokyo with a lovely park full of Museums. I had mentioned to Rosa to check to see if the museums were open on a Monday and when we got there I asked if she had checked. Oops!! every single bloody museum was closed as we walked through the park and out the other side. Oh well the park itself was nice with a lake full of water lilies, carp and tortoises.

Ueno is a very groovy sort of area full of shops and restaurants. We headed off for a coffee place bloody miles away which was a great place for coffee. Then we set off for this lunch place recommended by LP. It was a sizeable walk away and I must say the restaurant looked amazing. An old wooden traditional Japanese building…but guess what, closed on a Monday. Rose wasn’t earning too many points on this adventure!!

Then we walked through some lovely back streets full of shrines and through a massive cemetery in an effort to find restaurant recommendation No. 2 only to find it wasn’t open until dinner at night. Not too much gratification here. My feet were hurting ++++ . We found a place for lunch and by this time I bloody well needed it. Then there was another sort of walking tour recommended by LP which we embarked on and this took us to an area of open street markets which was fantastic. I loved this area. It was full of food, character, people.

Then we decided to go home for an intermission. We were home for an hour or so then we headed off on the train again back to the Ueno area and found a place to eat that was really and truly fantastic. It was a traditional Japanese sake bar with small plates of food. It was sensational. I had a couple of little pots of sake and some really interesting plates of food. Rose probably not so excited by the food but we both loved the place.

After that we wandered through the night ‘markets’ shops and then home. Then the highlight of the day….we stopped on the way back to the apartment at a very ordinary place for Rose to get her fix of Gyozo (not having had her fill at the Sake bar….unlike me). We noticed that they had Wifi so we were able to make contact and in so doing were able to get onto the woman who owns our Airbnb and she gave us the password so we are connected. Although my email isn’t sending!!

I have my traditional bandaged up feet from blisters but I felt very good when Roses App told her we had walked 13kms. Thats enough for any old girl and justifies the elastoplast!!!

We are using the subway system like veterans and getting around the various neighbourhoods of Tokyo like natives.

Observation for today: Everyone just leaves their bikes outside their apartments without any locking system at all. Says a lot for a country I reckon!

Tuesday 13th June

OMG, my poor feet!! Plan A today was to rise and shine early and to get ourselves to the Tsukiji Fish Market. Now when I say early Ang and Kirst, I don’t mean 4am but we thought we’d get there early enough. It was up at 6.30 am and on our way by 7am, jostling for space on the goddam train, changing trains and trying to find our way there from the station. We were already frazzled by the time we got there only to find that you weren’t allowed in until 10am. WTF!! We filled in time at the outer market with its food stalls and tourists and when it came time to be able to enter the market we were lined up with the other tourists in a long line. We were allowed in in bunches and directed by men in uniform with white gloves so we didn’t go astray. We then wandered through the market…no photos, no interactions with the vendors and all a bit surreal honestly. A massive variety of fish and every conceivable shell fish but an hour later we were out of there and heading off in the direction of a lunch venue even though it was still ridiculously early!!

Rose had identified a restaurant in an obscure part of town that was incredibly difficult to get to so we tried to work out the trains system…too hard really. It was raining so we thought of a taxi…massive queues. Then I suggested we looked at the busses and lo and behold there was a bus heading where we wanted to go. So we found this restaurant and had a nice lunch of meaty things such as sukiyaki. All good.

Then we had decided to go to go to the Tokyo National Museum and once again it was hard to get there from this obscure restaurant. It was raining and at this point I decided we’d jump a taxi. That was a relief. We were dropped at the door and the driver leapt out and produced an umbrella from the boot to give us as a gift to keep. The museum was free for over 70 y.o and I told this lovely man I was over 70 but I didn’t have my ID with me. He said what is your date of birth and I gave hime a year earlier and in I went. Then I felt horribly guilty. The culture of honesty and trust means that you feel horrible if you breach that trust. So I was mortified and wanted to confess…but of course didn’t!!

The museum was OK and there were some lovely things but it again wasn’t overwhelming. Then it was back on the train and home for a rest before going out for dinner locally. That was also a bit underwhelming but hilarious when we had finished and wanted the bill. Rose in control sets about asking for the bill. She’s already had 2 huge glasses of beer and the woman totally misunderstands her and cheerfully brings her massive glass number 3 of beer. I was pissing myself. Rose dutifully consumed it!!

So home after another big day. I think this story may sound a little negative but the overall experience of Japan is fantastic. It is a world unto itself. It is so different from most travel experiences, it is challenging and hugely rewarding. I look forward to what tomorrow brings!!!

Wednesday 14th June 2017

Another big day on my poor, long suffering feet. Oh how they suffer while I get back a bit of travel fitness. Plastered up again we set out at a more leisurely pace this morning. On the subway at 9.30 we headed off for Senso-Ji. A big buddhist temple in Asakura ( a suburb of Tokyo). This meant train changes and mountains of steps to climb ( this is clearly a blog from my experiences in a heartfelt sort of way). The most interesting thing about this expedition was the busy, interesting streets we walked through to get to the temple with lovely little Japanese handcrafts. None of which I bought but I certainly wanted some!! The temple itself was surrounded by a crawling mass of tourists and I personally ( and I think I speak for Rose as well) could have taken or left.

Our next expedition comes as a confession of sorts. We were united in our desire to get back to the Manchuori area to an Italian restaurant where we’d enjoyed a lovely coffee on day 1. We did this guiltily but both really enjoyed our lunch!!

Then it was off hiking again up to the East Garden of the Imperial Palace and onward and upward to the Museum of Modern Art (MOMAT). It was truly exhausting that hike in the blazing sun and it wouldn’t be honest if I didn’t say that there was a tad of tension in the air as we tried to work out the directions to MOMAT. We got over that (as is our way) and enjoyed the Museum. But truly it was a big day and the train ride home was only to be endured. But that wasn’t all. When I struggled home the lift was out due to works on the building and I nearly cried when I had to climb to the 4th floor (actually maybe not as bad as it sounds as the floors are small in the Japanese style.)

We rested our feet and this evening set out to find somewhere to eat. It is true to say that neither of us have found the food too awe inspiring, mainly I think because we’ve only found good restaurants on a few occasions. Tonight was no exception. Too much fried grease for either of our liking.

Now its back here to clean up/ pack up and get ready to move on tomorrow. we’re exciting about getting to smaller places and are looking forward to Takayama.

Todays general observation must be the observation that bidets are GREAT!! I have taken to the lovely warm wash of my botty bot like a duck to water.

Goodnight from Tokyo XXXXXXX

Thursday 15th June 2017:

It could go down as one of our rare mistakes but the train from Tokyo to Takayama was at 9.30. That meant we had to get on the train to Tokyo station at around 8am…OMG!!! A little old lady, her daughter and 2 large suitcases to experience the peak hour on the Tokyo train system. It was horrendous. It was the man with white gloves pushing people on to the train thingo. I was lucky enough to get a seat after about 4 stops but Rose had to juggle her case and maintain her balance while dealing with this wave of humanity!! It really was out of this world. I didn’t think we’d ever get off the train. But needless to say we did. We’ve become quite efficient at getting ourselves around due largely to Roses mastery of the rail system and with no trouble at all we found ourselves on the train to Nagoya. All most efficient these Japanese. We had to change at Nagoya but again no problems and again largely because Rosa had done the homework and knew which platform etc.

It was a splendid train journey. We had our food. Me with a Bento Box and Rose with sandwiches. We had our beer and little bottles of wine. The journey itself was spectacular through the mountains. Very close to Mount Fuji which fortunately popped its head out through the clouds specially for us and looked just larger than life as we cruised past it. The train followed a beautiful river through the mountains which was all very lovely.

We arrived here in Takayama and it just feels to me like a huge relief to be in a smaller town and so unhustled. We are staying at a place called “Rickshaw Inn”. This is the real deal. Its shoes off at the door, Tatami mats, and are sleeping on the floor. All of which I can deal with without any problems. The only thing I find a bit tiresome is that the only place to sit is on the floor and that just isn’t made for (my) comfort so I’ve come out to the general lounge to sit and write.

This afternoon we wandered around the town. It is so beautiful. The old town is just what you imagine the quintessential Japan should look like. Old wooden houses, lovely crafty shops, lots of sake distilleries, restaurants etc. It was lovely moseying about for the afternoon taking in the atmosphere and stopping to pick up some street food or have a drink. One delightful woman in a coffee shop insisted on taking out photo on a bright pink polaroid camera as a souvenir. It must have cost her a fortune as she made several attempts to get the perfect photo.

Back to the Inn…nowhere to sit so out to the lounge area very boldly with our wine and beer.

Now we’re just back from tonight’s meal and it was SCRUMPTIOUS. This area is known for its Hido Beef. The hotel man recommended a restaurant to give it a try. We were sceptical to begin with. Neither of us wanted great slabs of meat but we ate our words. It was fabulous. We cooked our meat at the table and had to work it all out ( a complex process for the faint hearted) but it was such a great experience and it felt as if we were getting the real stuff. So good!! Now we’re home again and have to face a nights sleep. Not just on the floor but bang up against each other and we all know that that doesn’t really work so well!!

Oh well Japanese style for 2 nights aint the end of the world.

Friday 16th June:

Well what a busy day its been. And here was I thinking we’d be more laid back and lazy in a small town like Takayama. Well think again old girl. You forgot the Rose factor.!
Firstly the night wasn’t too bad. I don’t want to moss myself but I got through the night OK.

Then after a boring western bread- style breakfast at our very Japanese- style hotel experience, off we set. We came down to the river and walked along a market that run down the side of the river. Then we went through the Yoshijima Heritage House. There is such an appeal in the simplicity and beauty of these Japanese houses.

Then we set off up into the hills on a walking path that takes you to multiple temples and shrines. We started at the Takayama Festival Floats Exhibition which is basically the floats they bring out in October each year for Takayama Matsuri. And they are truly spectacular some featuring the puppets, the Karakuri. That brought us out at the Sakurayama Hachiman-gu Shrine. And then from there we happened upon the Karakuri Museum.

This was great, it had all these hand crafted masks on display and then did a bit of a puppet show displaying the mastery of these puppet masters and the age old mechanisms by which they worked. I found that fascinating. Anyway onwards and upwards on our shrine walking path. It is beautiful, beautiful weather with the sun blazing down on us but it does get a tad sweaty as you wander through the hills that surround Takayama. That was thirsty work so we eventually, having been sated of shrines and temples, headed back to town to find some food and liquid to restore us for the afternoons adventures.

We both enjoyed our lunch. I had a Hida Beef Curry and Rose a Hida Beef Sandwich. Its fair to say that we’re both enjoying the food much more now that we’ve left Tokyo and are enjoying the local specialties.

Then, much as I would have liked to have curled up in a ball, Rose had me up and at ‘em once again. Firstly to the Takayama Jinya. These are a beautiful crop of buildings of the Sanmachi- Suli house which is the only remaining prefectural office building of the Tokugawa Shogunate. Again these buildings are amazing and it helps to get a handle on the life and times (including the torture). Then…it was take a deep breath and head up and up and up to the hilltop over Takayama to see the ruins of the castle Takayama-jo.

And my god up and up it was. First we had to get ourselves past a little man in uniform at the start of the road who kept insisting we should get on a tourist bus and directing us to the busses. So we had to regroup and make attempt number 2 telling him we wanted to walk up the hill. We did get past him finally and up and up we trudged. Some parts were so steep I thought I might start rolling down again. But we got there and then was the real bummer. Because that was just the start of the park and then you had to climb steps for 450M. Well I got up about 100M and my jelly legs couldn’t get me up any more steps so much to my chagrin I had to stop and send Rose on up without me. She came back saying it wasn’t worth it and good thing I stopped but she had lovely photos of snow capped mountains so I don’t know!!

Then back down the hill (definitely my exercise for the day) and we walked back through this divine little town, making a few little purchases along the way. Rose wanted another of the superb beef buns so we stopped for that too. Then back to the hotel for a wee respite. Next we will go out to find a meal.

The only place I can sit comfortably in the room is on the toilet so I come out to the lounge area they provide. Happy days, it has western style seats.

Having returned from another fabulous meal I now prepare for bed. This restaurant, Kotaro, was again a sensational. It is tiny with just a husband and wife team preparing the food but it is so good it was unreal. I had Hida beef miso. No idea what to expect but truly to die for. Rose had pork stuffed with cheese. We both came away from with grins from ear to ear. We then decided to stop for another drink and found a bar which was actually full of Melbournians. We had a powerful cocktail each and we’re now ready for bed…notwithstanding that it means the floor.

Goodnight. xxxxxxx

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Back in dear old Italy!!

Well I’m here, finally ensconced back in Bologna and happy to be here but also happy to really be heading home now. A day of travel is always exhausting as we all know. Its subways, planes, busses and tramping in between (Amsterdam is lovely at this time of year!!). The last straw was the Bologna airport bus only going to the central station which was the final walk with 2 heavy cases. Anyway I got here and am staying in the apartment right next to Fabrizio’s surgery which is a bit awkward. She was here to meet me…a bit awkward. She was worried that she should do something with me tonight but I said I just wanted to go for a walk and I’d pick something up when I was out. We were both relieved about that but I fear I won’t get off so lightly tomorrow night. I must say they do their apartments well though. They are the best ones I’ve ever stayed in.

So I went out and walked around. I got a meal (aaaahhhhh…back to Italian food…thank goodness) and half a litre of wine…all as it should be.

I’m not sure if this email is going to make it. My hotmail account (the only one I can send with) has again shut me down because they think in their wisdom that they have detected a security breach…thanks very much guys!!!!

More tomorrow but soon there will be no more. By the way its much warmer here!!

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Last day in Germany

It was a nice day but not a lot to report. The weather has picked up markedly and I no longer even take the hat and gloves with me. Its a balmy, autumnal 14 deg. The wind blows and the autumn leaves swirl around…it’s lovely. So this morning I set off and went back to that ‘cool’ area, Neustadt. I trammed over the river and just wandered around the area poking my nose into lovely little shops but not buying!! I went back to those courtyards that are decorated by artists and soaked it all in some more. I had coffee and I had lunch and basically just cruised with no main goal. I got back on the tram and then got off it before it crossed the river. I’d picked the tram because of the bridge it used to cross the river because when I was at the gallery of Old (or was it New??) Masters I was struck by a painting of Dresden painted by Canolletto (an old friend from the Sloan Collection at Lincoln’s Inn Field). I had worked out where he had painted it from and I got off to try and capture it with my camera…you can imagine that that wasn’t so successful but I gave it a go!!

I came back to the old town and wandered around the setting up of the Christmas Markets. Some are starting to open so I got a Gluhwein and some donut thingos, then I wandered off home and started to do a bit of packing. But no food in the place at all so out I went again to my lovely ‘Keller’ and had a meal of chicken with a horseradish crust. It was delicious and I was able to polish off the chicken but the masses of wedges defeated me totally.

Well that’s it. Have to get myself out to the airport in the morning. I’ve worked out the subway station and I can walk there without too much trouble so I should be OK.

Allah willing my next update will be from Bologna.

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Penultimate day in Germany

Another busy day in Dresden. I’m just settling down in this city. Starting to know my way around, exploring all the areas and becoming familiar with the trams. 6 days is just about what it takes to settle in!!

After writing last night I decided I didn’t really know that there was no Einsteins here…so I googled and lo and behold there was one. So I went in search this morning. I had the address and I went up and down the fucking street with my tongue hanging out. But no luck, it definitely wasn’t there. So that wasted an hour or so. I got back on track and got on the tram to go to Pfunds Molkerei. LPG told me it was the Guinness- certified “world’s most beautiful dairy shop”. And beautiful it was…all tiled and frescoed. A real treat but first up I got into trouble for taking a photo (she gave me such a fright the photo is totally blurred!!). So I poked around and I went into their cafe for a coffee. That is when I went totally mad and decided I should try the dairy. So I got an Iced Coffee and a piece of cheesecake. How insane can you be?? I struggled through the iced coffee feeling like Gluttony itself. I, of course, make it through a third of cheesecake and had to leave the rest. I felt bad about that all day!!

Then I got on the trams again and headed off to the Militarhistorisches Museum for a bit of Military History. Not something I would normally go out of my way to do but it got a really good rapp. And it was a great museum…not at all boring and was really inventive in its display of the effects of war. I was there from 11 until 4. It was huge. They also had a special exhibition on Spies…the German Secret Services. I paid for both but by the time I finished the permanent exhibition I was done….and it was starting to get dark outside. So I flew around half the Spy Show and then called it a day. Big day, so back on the tram to the centre then hoofed it home.

A night for finishing off leftovers and clearing out the fridge. I’ll definitely have to eat out tomorrow night. One more day and I’ll return to the places I’ve particularly liked in a final walk around the city.

This time next week I’ll be in my bed and hopefully I’ll be warm!! (as long as the planes stay in the sky)

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2 Museums, a Cathedral and a squirt of rain

One Museum Card successfully (and cleverly) acquitted. Off I went this morning but first my only complaint about Dresden. Crap Coffee. No Einstein in this city and not a decent cup to be found which shits me. Also as an aside have I told you how great the weather has been. Well into double figures from 14 deg up to 16 deg…after 1 deg in Berlin this has been heaven…no totally dorky hat for a few days in order to restore my dignity briefly. But today it started to squirt rain upon my head so the hat went back on. I looked at myself in a mirror and truly you either laugh or you cry. Fortunately I don’t know anyone here but maybe the hat has something to do with the fact that people weren’t talking to me. In fact now that I think about it the hat came off in Dresden and people have suddenly been so friendly…THATS IT!!!!!

Anyway back to business… Museums…quickly, got to acquit them today because that’s it for the card. Have I also said I hate these cards, they don’t suit my style at all. Anyway this morning, after crap coffee, I went to The Albertinum Museum of New Masters. And it was great, some great stuff and the German artists expand my knowledge of art. I focus on the Germans to try and learn something. So I absorbed Otto Dix, Gerhard Richter, Max Liebermann etc with a cheeky look at Chagall, Degas, Monet, Manet etc.

That took ages and by the time I finished I needed a break so I got some lunch and recharged then I went off to an Exhibition nearby of Flemish Landscape painting including the wonderful Breughal Paintings of Paradise on Earth. I actually really love those Flemish artists with their fine detail and beautiful colours and cheeky birds, flowers etc. It was fun.

After that I spent some time walking along the Elbe which was nice. Then I went into the Katholische Hofkirsche…the Catholic Cathedral built to uphold the Catholics end in answer to the Protestant Frauenkirsche. And wouldn’t you know it, it was also gutted during WWII and has been laboriously rebuilt…this town is something else. The reconstruction of the city after total devastation is beyond my mind’s ability to fathom.

Still raining…but I’d seen a wine shop I wanted to go to to get my last bottle. The man there conned me into buying a $25 bottle on the grounds you had to pay that much to get a decent bottle of German red wine. Not my experience in Berlin but Oh Well!!

Home I trudged in the rain and had a leftover dinner. That’s it for another day. 3 Sleeps left in Germany counting tonight. Another mueum tomorrow before they close for Monday so last chance and this one isn’t covered by that bloody card so it’s OK!!

Good night darlings. I’m starting to really looking forward to getting home now.

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A 4 (yes 4) Museum Day!!

You are receiving this from a modern day, elderly super hero!! When I arrived in Dresden I bought a Museum Card…pay 21 Eu and visit as many museums as you want…the catch…in 2 days!! Now this girl likes to do a Museum a day, 2 if pushed but that means brain going to mush. However the imperative that trumps (sorry to use that word) all others is getting value for money. I planned 2 museums today and 2 tomorrow but that meant losing a few.

So, I set out this AM, after saying good morning to Lou Boy, I had a strong coffee and off I went. First cab off the rank was the Museums in Zwinger (a palace built by Augustus the Strong _ great name!- nearly as good as Friedrich dei Grosse). The Gemaldegalerie Alte Meister i.e. Old Masters Museum was first. That was pretty impressive which, as the name suggests, was full of the old masters such as Raphael, Rubens, Cranach, Rembrandt, Vermeer etc…spent ages there because I do love following these mighty men around the world. Thinking it was a 2 museum day I took my time and calmly moved on to the other gallery in the Zwinger (there are 3 but I decided to ditch the Mathematisch- Physikalischer (I did think you boys would probably have loved it) and chose instead the Porzellansammlung i.e. the Porcelain Collection from China Japan and of course Meissen. Half way through that Museum I thought it was fairly boring but then it really got interesting and there were some amazing pieces that I loved…I kept thinking how Loris would have loved it!!

By this stage I was exhausted so I stopped for a bowl of soup and a sit down for a while. With this I revived and it was only 2.30. So I decided to go back to yesterdays venue, the main Schloss, the Residenzschloss which is also now a whole lot of museums. This is the site of yesterday’s Historisches Grunes Gewolde which was amazing. So this time I made for the Neues Grunes Gewolde (The new one!). It was equally overwhelming…it truly is amazing they are both just overflowing with the most remarkable jewels, intricately worked objects of all sorts in ivory, shell, ebony, gold, silver and all jewel studded. It’s impossible to describe, it is awe-inspiring, overwhelming and beautiful. I loved it as I loved yesterdays. It also has the biggest and only green diamond in the world (biggest and only of course not being possible but I’ll leave it at that), a cherry pit with 185 faces carved on it. Anyway, enough of that. In the same building is the Turkish Cammer..a bit of a disappointment actually which was a relief because I’d had it. But the huge turkish tent was impressive.

That was it I was done!! It was 5 pm and dark so I headed to a ‘Keller’ recommended in LPG for tea but as I arrived so did 50 or so tourists off a bus so I was outta there. I headed back to the restaurant near home where I went on the first night. It was so early I was able to get a table despite them being fully booked…as long as I left by 6.30…no problem for me! This time I ordered a goulash and again it was HUGE. But I’m wise now so I carefully ate half and asked to take the other half home…2 meals for the price of one…very clever!! And home to get those shoes off.

Did I tell you how mean the provisions are in this BnB…Overall its totally fine, in a brilliant position and has everything I need but they cock it up by not having a few basics like a good knife (or any sort of cutting knife), no chopping board, a really crappy corkscrew that almost defeated me last night but desperation wins in the end. And finally not enough toilet paper to last the 6 days I’m here. But fear not I’ve taken up the challenge and am about as economical as is humanly possible!!

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Getting to know Dresden

A day exploring Dresden and I have to say this seems to me to be the Jewel in the Crown. A hard call given the pleasures of both Hamburg and Berlin but Dresden just epitomises an amazing spirit of regeneration. I’m in awe as anyone would have to be visiting this city of the way it has risen up and rebuilt itself. And it is so COOL!! And the people are SO lovely. Twice today people actually came up to me and asked if they could help when I was peering at transport maps.

So where did I finish off? I think I was just heading out to dinner…which I did, to this lovely, very ‘typical’ restaurant just a couple of blocks away. The waiter was so sweet and helpful. I asked him what I should order and he recommended this sort of corned beef (only sort of), dumplings and sauerkraut…being very typical of Saxony. OK said I let’s give it a go. Delicious it was, but so huge. The dumplings were like 2 massive apples!! Anyway I worked my way through about a third of it, which I tell you was quite a substantial meal, then I had to give up. They brought me a very alcoholic digestive and gave me a doggy bag for the leftovers. Then they told me there was a very typical desert which, being the sucker I am, I agreed to… a pancake with all things sweet and German inside. I waddled home. I took a photo to share with you but my phone refuses to send anything from it so I can’t get it to you.

This morning I set off. First I have to say that I bought a Dresden card for all the Museums. But it is for 2 days so I didn’t want to start my 2 days today so I had to find things not covered by the card. First I went to the local train station to suss out the way I get myself to the airport and to buy my weekly ticket. Both accomplished. Then I went into the centre to firstly the Frauenkirche, the massive cathedral in the centre of Dresden. This is a story in itself. totally destroyed in the massive carpet bombing of Dresden in February 1945. Once they got rid of the Russians in 1989 they started to meticulously rebuild the massive edifice from the rubble that had just remained there. So between 1994 and 2005 it was totally reconstructed. They have a film about it and they were happy to show it to just me, rather than have me wait for a show time. I have to say I ended up with tears in my eyes (I know, I know, very easy for me) but it was totally extraordinary.

Then I went to the Residenzschloss, the massive Saxon palace in the centre of Dresden. There are a number of important museums within but I went to the Historisches Grunes Gewolde (the historic green vault) which is the only one not covered by the Dresden Card. Amazing again…just dripping with beautiful silver, gold, ivory etc…and jewels…wow…emeralds, rubies, sapphires and diamonds of very grand proportions. That took a few hours and was totally overwhelming.

Then I decided to use my newly purchased public transport ticket and get a feel for the other side of the river in Neustadt. This is definitely where the cool cats hang out. Its Fitzroy, NeuKolln, St Pauli all on steroids. Amazing street art, cafes, artists etc. I had lunch in a very groovy restaurant Die Scheune which was built on a bomb site in 1951 as a Youth Club. The waiter was, again, totally gorgeous and talked to me for ages telling me about the restaurant and the politics of Dresden and Germany as he saw it. Neustadt largely escaped the bombing in 1945 except for the block where the restaurant was. I left there and walked the streets looking at the street art. The best part was the Kunsthohpassage. These are these 5 or so courtyard spaces all linked together and taken over by artists who have made them beautiful and who are still there working and selling their art. It is a fabulous space that I loved. Time to go home exhausted. But I needed wine and bread. Now there’s a challenge!! Not the bread but I couldn’t find wine for some reason. Anyway to cut a long story short I did eventually find some in a horrible Chadstone-like space back in my hood.

So I staggered home after another long day. Last nights leftovers for tea were a godsend. I think I should be spending more time in Dresden but not at the expense of coming home!! Oh that reminds me, the other brilliant thing about today was that it was 10…yes 10 degrees…double figures no less!!!!

Museum day tomorrow!! Off I go to the Zwinger I think.

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Dresden at last!

Well i made it to Dresden and have just spent the last 3 hours wandering around and getting a feel for it. Magic!! A really gorgeous city. Reminds me a bit of Prague without the Disney and feeling that it has been taken over for tourism. It’s early days but I just loved it this afternoon despite the rain and gloom and the descent of darkness so early. I’ve started to get my bearings which is good because there is a sense of urgency with only 5 days after today to get to see and do all I want to see and do. I found the Tourist Office (after a few wrong turns) and they were incredibly nice and helpful so I have my map, my information and ticket for the Museum so I’m off and running.

I was up and at it fairly efficiently this morning to finish packing, cleaning up and getting myself onto the crowded bus with my 2 cases. Got to the Hauptbahnhof OK, had a bit of a wait so off to the Einstein’s there for my coffee. The train was delayed and getting onto the train is always a challenge. In Italy you can fairly much rely on someone helping you lift your cases up but not so in Germany. But no worries and the guy in the carriage heaved them up to the luggage racks for me (but he was Spanish!!!!…it’s those latinos, you have to love em when you’re not building fences). Anyway all good. I was met at the station by the mother (Jana) of the Airbnb woman which was enormously good of her and a huge help it has to be said.

So that’s my day. There is apparently a restaurant just near here that Jana told me about so for the first time in ages I may venture out at night and test it out. So off I go. I’ll let you know tomorrow if I survive walking the dark streets alone!!

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Last day in Berlin

Well, last day in Berlin is over!!!

Yesterday I didn’t write because there was much to write about. I did a little bit of small Christmas shopping but nothing exciting at all. I find it hard to find exciting things in this global world. Anyway, I wandered around, popped in and out of shops and sat down to a nice lunch, something I haven’t really done before. As I’ve commented before the lovely squares are now full of Christmas Markets under construction, including the lovely Gendarmenplatz. Good thing I’d seen it before. I came home after the day to do a load of washing and start to move my head into moving on gear.

There was all this hype about the Super Moon and I’m in the perfect position with a 360 deg. view from this apartment. So I waited and the moon rose as expected. I watched it for ages and it was bright but not a lot different from your normal full moon. A bit of a disappointment in my view…how was it from down under??

Today I set off for my last hurrah. I went for my last coffee at Einstein (Check Point Charlie…the best people watching venue on earth…and god people are stupid but sometimes I do find myself laughing out loud!!). Then I set off for…oops the Museum Island. I’d walked around there and the museums are all so utterly overwhelming that I couldn’t cope and I hadn’t been to any of the Museums. So, I had a day today and I decided to choose one and to go to it. I chose the Pergamon Museum with its splendours of the ancient world. But first I got waylaid when I went up to Freidrichstasse Station and decided I hadn’t taken the time to take in the Tranenpalast ( The Palace of Tears) the border crossing pavilion where the East Berliners had to say goodbye to their visitors from the west. So I went in there and spent ages looking at the displays, videos etc. For the first time the thing that really struck me was how naive and stupid I was and what a dangerous position I was in when I blithely found myself in East Berlin. I had a real ‘Oh My God’ moment. You stupid would be adventurer!!

Anyway I made my way from there to the Pergamonmuseum. And I’m so glad I didn’t miss it…it was amazing. The first thing you walk into is the Ishtar Gate of Babylon. Massive, impressive, beautiful and reconstructed within the museum from an archeological site. I knew they had all these wonderful treasures and like the British Museum there is a certain uneasiness about how these treasure were acquired and removed from what was Mesopotamia/ Syria/ Jordan/ Iraq / Iran. But as you look on these amazing structures from places like Aleppo you have to think thank God they were removed because otherwise they would now be lost to us all. So, the long and the short of it was that it was an afternoon well spent and I was very happy that I’d made the effort. N.B Half the Pergamonmuseum is closed and under renovation so I will have to return to see the Pergamon Alter in 2019!!

I emerged to a horrid day of rain and wind which was in fact nearly over as the light was fading. So I galloped home on the subway and now have to turn my energies to packing and cleaning up. Dresden tomorrow. I’ve really loved Berlin but am happy to be heading for new horizons tomorrow. This time in a week I’ll be back in Italy (god willing!!)

More from Dresden tomorrow….loads and loads of love, I’m missing everyone and starting to look forward to being home.

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Potsdam

Big day for me going off to Potsdam. It was something of an undertaking on a freezing cold morning with ice all over everything. Bus, train and then find the right bus to get you within cooee of Sans Soucci. I did it but then had a bit of time to kill because entry was timed and there was no way you were going to get in before your time. Mine was 11.20. So I wandered the gardens until my time and then in I went with my ‘group’. Well really it was hilarious. Those of you who’ve been there will know. You get assigned your own ‘Officer’ who takes you into a room and shuts the door behind you. She then patrolled for anyone taking illicit photos i.e. not having paid the extra to allow you to take photos. I hadn’t paid that and there is no way on earth I would have tried to sneak one (as I do in most places) some did and were immediately spotted and publicly humiliated. Then the door was opened and we were ushered into the next room and the door closed. We all had audio guides in the language of our choice so it was a very weird and isolating experience. Notwithstanding the palace sure is impressive. On the way in I had asked for a map and the man at the information desk said ‘WHY?’. It was actually so funny that I burst out laughing…oh no reason, just thought it might be useful!! So when I finished my tour of Sans Souci I had no idea in which direction to head to get to the next sight.
LPG helped a bit and off I headed for the 2 km walk to Neues Palais via the Chinesisches Haus (chinese House) and Schross Charlottenhof which added at least another km. But the bummer here is that it is winter and although your ticket includes all the Palaces etc in Sans Souci Park, they are mostly closed from the end of October. So it was look from the outside only. There are great art collections in places like the Bildergalerie and many others but no go in Nov. Still I have to say I couldn’t have taken in much more, the other side to that is that by 3pm you are an icicle and its starting to feel as if the day’s over. So I got to Neues Palais. It was also really fabulous and again a guide takes you through. This one was better if you are German speaking because she actually conducted a tour. But I got a boring old audio guide in English and had to endure the rest of the group laughing heartily and enjoying themselves.
Just back for a minute to the walk between the palaces. It was probably the nicest part of the day. The sun shone between 1pm and 2pm and you actually felt your bones thawing while walking through this magnificent parkland. The waterways were all frozen over and the grass was white with frost and didn’t thaw all day.
So finished Neues Palais..where does the bus leave from? How do I get myself back to the train station? To cut a long story short I figured it all out and got myself back. But I hadn’t eaten all day. It was 5pm and pitch black. So I took myself back to my Italian friends at the end of my street. It was warm, I had a hot meal and a glass of wine and finally completed the trip home. Phew!! A big day. And I barely scratched the surface of Potsdam, it definitely deserves 2 days, the town itself deserves a good potter,  but I don’t think it’s going to get it from me. See below for confirmation of frozen canals and frost everywhere. By the way Friederich was crazy for vines…they are everywhere…inside (in the elaborate stucco and outside surrounding Sans Souci.
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