Author: susan

I sit and write this as Rose listens to a podcast on how to transplant a fucking head. This is a very surreal environment, our tiny little apartment. Well we’re both (I think) loving Kyoto. There is far too much to do for us to do, particularly as we cope with minor ailments and hangovers. So today we probably did less than we wanted to do but what we did do was hugely enjoyable. We set of on a bus to take us to the Arashiyama Bamboo Forest. We joined, again, a massive tourist flow and walked up through the forest which was indeed lovely but it was a bit of a business to get a decent photo without masses of people in it. Still it was enjoyable and of course the Memoirs of a Geisha reminders were everywhere. But then the biggest surprise and one of the loveliest spots on the whole trip was when we went from the Bamboo Forest into Okochi Sanso, the home of an old Japanese actor in Samurai films of the 1930s (I think). This was totally, amazingly splendid. There was a circuitous garden winding up through the hillside with these beautiful tranquil areas of such perfection and beauty it was breathtaking. For me it was a highlight although I had to focus as I clambered up a path of rocks. There were also divine views down over Kyoto. There were a million different shades of green and little shrines along the way. At the end of the walk through the garden we got a bowl of green tea and a little cake in a lovely setting, which was much needed.…a highlight for sure.

We then walked back down through the Bamboo Forest with the masses and then along the crowded streets to the river. We had a spot of lunch and then decided to head back home and have a break. It was thoroughly hot and sweaty work this. Rose pointed out that I had a drop of sweat hanging from my earring at one point!! It was literally pouring off me. So we waited and waited for our bus, eventually got on one that was the same number as the one that brought us there but it was definitely not right!! We eventually had to jump off and get onto a subway and then walk home from there. We were very happy to be home because a) we escaped the intense heat and humidity and b) the night of indulgence that preceded today left us both exhausted so we just didn’t have to oomph to keep going. It was already 3pm so we ended up just staying put until we went out to get our dinner tonight.

Tonight we had decided to try one of the French Restaurants that surround us which we did and it was enjoyable although I always tend to feel a bit guilty when I don’t eat Japanese…but it was good and fun and now we are ready for bed. Our last day in Kyoto tomorrow…we have a plan. It remains to be seen how much of it we achieve!!

Another day in the fair city of Kyoto. We set off in good time this morning, once again Rose had mapped out a precise and impressive route to get there. Train here, another train there and here we were at the market. It was a fun market with lots of variety and we made our way through it. Kyoto is such an alive and busy city. Specially over the weekend when it seems that everyone is out and about packing in as much enjoyment as possible. From the market we jumped on a bus to the Gion district and then paced our way through the gardens, temples and shrines as well as, most enjoyably for me, the ancient streets of wooden houses and narrow lanes. The only problem was pacing it out with everyone else!! Still it was loads of fun poking our noses into shops along the way and browsing along. Eventually we started to make our way back, stopping for a quick lunch. Then Rose got the call that her friend Matt and his partner Chris had left Osaka and were making their way to meet her/us. Yikes. We rushed for the subway but that was too complicated so we had one of our very rare taxi rides back to the beer bar where we had been yesterday and where we were meeting them.

This is where the fun really began. They are a couple of beer drinking boys just like our Rosa and I joined in (a testament to my improving health). I (bless my soul) had 4 beers, albeit small ones!! We were there for more than 2 hours and it was really fun. They are just lovely guys and certainly embraced my presence. Then we decided to move to a place where I could get a vino as well as where they could continue their beer drinking. We found such a place that also had some nice food for us to enjoy including another of those beautiful, enormous oysters, a pizza to ensure Rosa was happy and a moussaka- type thing. All delicious and we drank on. It was fun. We walked the boys to the subway and they headed back to Osaka and we came home. A little the worse for wear but a very enjoyable night had by all.

Tomorrow we’re off to the Bamboo forest. My leg (just FYI) is still red and angry looking and a bit swollen. I just have to hope it lasts out til I get home where I can trot off to the doctor !!!

Well after a good nights sleep I was feeling better although very washed out. Notwithstanding this we set off on the trains to the Vermillion Shrine, Fushini- Inari Taisha. Well, when we got off the train we couldn’t believe the hoards and hoards of people, so much so that just to get off the train station you had to queue. But what do you do? So we joined the masses and headed on up the through the endless shrine gates…most impressive but so many people made it difficult to capture the serene nature of it. In fact taking a photo was a challenge. It is hot and humid here – 33 deg and very sweaty. So after that we decided to come home for lunch and a bit of a break. Rose was very concerned about my health at this point.

We had a break back at our tinsy weensy apartment for an hour and then we set off for the Nijo-jo. A very impressive castle and palace complex. We were going to head off after this for the Imperial Palace but we totally under-estimated the size of this site. Touring time 2 hrs we read…?? And it was so hot and so humid that the sweat was really pouring off me and I was losing energy fast. So we walked back to a beer bar that Rose’s friend Matt had recommended and Rose enjoyed a few beers. Then home for a short time and and then we went off to another place recommended by Matt for a Ramen meal. This was the first meal I’d had for 24 hrs and it was truly delicious. Now I’m tentatively having a glass of wine…so everything is looking up.

This is short and sweet but I think the overriding impression is that Kyoto is a great city. We are staying in a very cool area full of wine bars, beer bars and restaurants (at least half of which are french) and cafes, boulangeries, patisseries Hopefully by tomorrow I’ll be back up to full speed to enjoy it all.

Up this morning and time to leave the palace in Hiroshima. We went off to have breakfast, packed up and got a taxi to the train station. I have to say that Rose is a whizz kid when it comes to finding her way on and off trains. I just meekly follow along behind. It is so good to have her. We manoeuvred our way on and off the trains and and got to Kyoto station. Then we did the usual thing and got our ongoing ticket, this time to Tokyo, found the tourist office and got information about transport systems, city maps etc. The Airbnb had given us the instructions and again with Rose’s help we found our way to the apartment. The only glitch there was that it was one of the rare occasions when we had to climb mountainous stairs and Rose had to lug 2 cases up them. We eyeballed all the restaurants along the way and saw a creperie that we both wanted to test out. So we dropped our bags and out we went. Then it all went to shit for me. My eyes saw bigger than my stomach and we ordered a savoury crepe plus a sweet one to share. I started to eat my savoury one and started to feel completely sick, sweaty ready to vomit. I asked to hold the sweet crepe but it was already on the way. I was a bit of a mess by now…pale, pains in the tummy, naseous etc. I staggered up and got to the loo where I had terrible diarrhoea. Rose was plotting the path to the hospital. However I got up (some poor, polite, Japanese girl went to the loo after me….shocking experience for her too. ) Anyway, sorry if this is too much detail but we doggy bagged the sweet crepe and I headed for home hastily. I hopped into bed and that is where I stayed for the afternoon. I’m up now and still feel a bit shaky on it. No more food for me today. Hopefully I’ll have recovered by tomorrow.

I’m up briefly now, the apartment is tiny as per usual in Japan and I’ll be back in bed soon. In the meantime Rose has planned our schedule for the next 4 days. Lots to see and do here!!!

Off we went this morning with Rose as tour guide we negotiated the subway, then the JR line (free with our JR pass), then onto the ferry (also free with our JR pass) and bingo bang we were on Miyajima Island by 10am… good work team!!

We marched along the shore to the Itsukushi-ma- jinja. A shrine that sits in the water and is an iconic photo. I think one of the most photographed places in Japan but its on my camera so I can’t show you right now!!! We walked around the temple which usually sits in the water at high tide but unfortunately the tide was heading out, which does detract from the majesty of the setting somewhat.

Then we set off up the hill to find the ropeway…a giant cable car thing. We were told that there was a shuttle bus to take us to the ropeway but we somehow missed that and had to keep walking up and up. Now that isn’t so bad, I thought I’d got there nicely maintaining my end but then when we got to the ropeway it said 100 steps up to it…I nearly died at that point. But what do you do? Up we went and with wobbly knees (that is me not Rose) but in fact we were both very wobbly when we got up in the fucking air with a sheer drop to our deaths should anything go wrong. Suffice to say we made it, only to find that that was a midway point and we had to climb more steps to the next stage…fucking hell!!

When we finally got to the top there is a walk to the tip of the highest mountain on the Island Mt Missen. Well there was no way I could do that bit but Rose went off like a true soldier and conquered it. She said it was horrendous with steep steps heading up. In fact her super duper App told her that she had climbed 65 stories….fair dinkum???!!! She also reported that she saw a snake tumble off the cliff side…was she hallucinating or was this true…we will never know!!

Anyway she came back in one piece although sweaty and a bit flustered. I think the view from the lookout I climbed to, although a very poor achievement by comparison, was probably just as good. I mean once you’re that high the view can’t get much better. So back we came on the ropeway back down, down, down. This time when we arrived back the shuttle bus was there and we gratefully jumped on it (where the hell was it on the way up??). Down to town and I spied some oysters being grilled over a fire. I couldn’t resist and they were truly to die for. We then had a well deserved lunch (I had congee eel). Then the next best thing and what probably made Budd’s day was that she espied a mojito stall with a lovely girl doing a roaring trade selling mojito’s to the masses. We/she got one and it was delicious!!

Back on the ferry, back on the train, totally exhausted and back to the hotel for a rest. A break, feet up, before Rose knocking on my door to find somewhere to eat once again!

Another debacle trying to find a decent meal as we walked the streets to find a restaurant recommended by Lonely Planet. It had vanished! There was nothing for it but to come back to the area we know so well near the hotel and eat tonkutsu and drink sake.

We are now back in out luxury hotel having a nightcap. Heading off to Kyoto tomorrow for out final jaunt before Tokyo then home.

God it’s hard to write this tonight. I’m pissed and as full as a goog. Starting backwards we’ve just had dinner at the hotel bistro. The ‘all you can eat’ variety and for an additional $15 all the alcohol you can consume. Can you believe it…how responsible is that??? Anyway we went at it hard in the best ‘value for money style’ and we both believe we did it justice in all categories i.e. food, desert and alcohol. Far be it from me to go into detail because what happens on holiday stays on holiday but we can proudly say we got value for money.

Hiroshima as you either know from experience or can well imagine, is a very interesting place to explore. So many observations that it is more a conversation than an email. In precis, we went to the A Bomb Dome, the peace monuments on the way and of course the Peace Memorial Museum. All very moving and how could you not come away wondering how such a thing could ever happen. And indeed the why it happened is a challenging question, the human suffering a clear crime without doubt. But having so recently been to Berlin/ Dresden etc I think that overwhelmingly I came away with huge respect for the German understanding of their own war crimes. This is in contrast to the Japanese understanding of their own part in creating the massive tragedy that occurred here. Too philosophical?? I thought so!! But for me food for thought. Rose definitely thinks I bang on too much and I’m sure you will too so enough said!!

But one last word. There are so many contradictions in trying to understand this culture and we are nowhere close to it. Just when you start to think that there are anomalies and so many nuances, the people take your breathe away with their charm and kindness. Yesterday when Rose and I were scuttling along in the rain without protection, both of us, independently, had people come up to us and share their umbrellas as we walked along the street….sometimes you just can’t believe the kindness. On the other side of the coin you could die waiting for someone to give up their seat for you on the train or bus…forget it!!

After the peace memorials(multiple) we took ourselves to the Castle. Rose climbed the tower but I stayed on ground level. Someone had to take her photo up there! Then back here to our luxury establishment for an afternoon break and a drink then to dinner…i.e. back to the start.

Tomorrow we are taking the ferry over to Miyajima. That will be an adventure…even getting ourselves to the ferry terminal will be its own little challenge. Off to bed…I think I’ll take a panadol before I go to bed as a prophylaxis to a hangover.

This is an amazing country honestly. Everything works so efficiently and there are people employed everywhere to direct you, clean up after you, polish the windows of the train between each trip, keep everything working efficiently, wave and bow to every carriage of the train as it leaves the station etc, etc.

So off we headed this morning to get on our 2 trains to transport us from Kanazawa to Hiroshima. At the change over at Shin- Osaka we bought the Bento box and the little bottle of wine (beer for R) and off we set for the second half of the journey. Then to our hotel which is incredibly plush (more so than the last minute price suggests). We can’t breathe without being bowed at. Actually its a bit embarrassing, we feel sloppy in our thongs and jeans. Once again we have a room each…it seems better that way!! Then Rose was on a mission to find a laundromat….which she did thanks to the exceedingly clever Mr Google. It was a Km away and off we set. We found it, put on the load of washing and then found this absolutely superb coffee shop. Definitely the best coffee I’ve had in Japan albeit expensive. And the man spent ages doing the above…it was so lovely. And to add to the joy we also had the best cheesecake of all time….all this and heaven too!!!

Washing finished and then for the KM back to our palace….remembering that we were foolishly in thongs. Walked out of the laundromat and it bucketed so I, at least, slipped and slithered my way home fearing for my life (or at least a limb) all the way. But here we are. Our routine trip to the Family Mart or 7/11 for supplies of alcohol, a break before a meal tonight. We won’t be going far, its raining!!

More when we get back. Oops here we are back already. So…a chat to my darling Lou and his Dad (also my darling) and then off to find somewhere to eat.

This extraordinary hotel is on the edge of a complex which, combined with the multiple hotel restaurants, provides a further endless array of restaurants. We went to a modest place that served the most divine Okanomiyaki which is the amazing Japanese omelette stuffed with whatever you want. I had cuttlefish, squid and prawn and Rose had pork and an egg on top. They serve it onto a hot plate in the middle of your table and you eat it from there. SO delicious. We really enjoyed that. We then took ourselves up to the cocktail bar on the 33 fl but sanity prevailed and we decided to come down to the room(s) and have our wine.

Tomorrow it’s off to the memorial park and museum…hopefully the rain will have stopped by then.

Guess what today consisted of?? Walking/eating/walking/eating. Does this balance things out? Normally I’d say yes but today I’d have to confess that the eating won…sadly!!

So there are these districts in Kanazawa which are the preserved and lovely parts of town. Yesterday I told you we went to the Samurai district which was great. Today we hopped on a bus that took us first thing up to the Higashi Chaya District. A beautifully preserved area full of lovely shops selling crafty stuff. It was a delight to wander the streets picking up a coffee here and a croquette there. The only thing cramping our style was the masses (and I do mean masses) of Chinese tourists pouring off tourist busses…very cramping of the style actually. Nonetheless it was a lovely area and we enjoyed wandering around very much. Then we headed down and along the river to the Kazuemachi Chaya District. Again a beautifully preserved area along the river. And it was lovely and quiet and pretty. We thought we’d find lunch there but sadly we didn’t find anywhere suitable. I’d spilt grease all down my front from my engagement with a yummy croquette so we walked back to our hotel area. Then we thought why not see what the food is like in the hotel bistro. I got the eat as much as you want bistro and Rose got a burger (thinking that the bistro was too fishy) but it was a great bistro and I definitely got the best deal. The deserts reminded me of Vietnam…I came back with 3!!!!!! Oh dear!!

Half an hours break and we set off again. We stopped in at a department store to price a most gorgeous pair of shoes Rose had her eye on but predictably they were hugely expensive although probably no more that they’d be in Melb. Then hopped on a bus to the Nishi Chaya District…the area that is supposed to have the largest number of Geisha. Another nice area but damned if we saw a single geisha. We wandered around there for ages as well as around the temples there. We were a bit betwixt and between because we wanted to go back to the Italian Restaurant that was closed on Sunday but we were to early. And too early for the bars to be open too. So we wandered and wandered. Then we went and sat by the river to wait for everything to open. Then to the Italian Restaurant Osteria del Campagna. We had a pasta, some wine and got the bus back to the hotel. End of another busy day. We’re polishing off the wine in our room before bed. Its an early rise tomorrow and off to Hiroshima so a bit of showering and packing to do.

Well, another fascinating, busy and tiring day. We set off first thing to go to the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art, just on the edge of the fabulous gardens, the Kenroku – en….one of the 3 best gardens in Japan. So sayeth LPG. The Museum is a fabulous building surrounded by glass. It is free except for exhibitions. There was what looked like a fantastic exhibition by IKEDA Manabu: The Pen. It looked fantastic and we would have loved to have seen it but it is Sunday and the queue was formidable. Tomorrow being Monday it is closed so we’ve missed it. Anyway we wandered around the building, saw what we could see which was also great. We then found a lovely place to have a coffee (best coffee so far in Japan) and then headed off for the garden, the Kenroku – en. They truly were beautiful. Full of azaleas and hydrangeas, running water and little bridges. So beautiful. We wandered around there for ages and then took ourselves off to the Kanazawa Castle and park. That was also interesting and great insight into feudal Japan. Its mainly been rebuilt but using all the traditional methods of interlocking wood and stone carving.

Now it was time for lunch and Rose had her eye on an Italian Restaurant on the other side of town. So we decided to hop in a taxi. He found it after much deliberation but then we discovered it was closed on Sunday. Shit!!! So we walked and walked to find another Rest recommended by LPG…couldn’t find it and ended up in an Indian/Nepalese restaurant ( Aashirwad) where we really did have a delicious lunch. We were near the old Samurai district at this point so after lunch we spent the afternoon wandering around among the Samurai houses. It was a gorgeous area and we had a very enjoyable afternoon. We walked back to the hotel and at least my feet were then happy to have an afternoon rest…which they did!!

We have our supply of wine and beer bought at our local Family Mart…we have come to feel very affectionate towards the Family Mart which can usually meet our needs in whatever city we are in.

Then we set off and walked to another part of town tonight for a great meal at a place called Kanazawa Todoroki – tie. Here I had my massive oven baked oyster which was to die for, white asparagus with egg and parmesan and a beautifully prepared sardine. Rose had delicious wild boar….back on track in the food department. We walked home well satisfied and are having a night cap before bed.

Goodnight darlings. We miss you hugely but we are enjoying this world of new surprises around every corner.