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A day in Zagreb

Heating up again after a day or 2 of respite. Antibiotics finished… that is a milestone and hopefully all will be well.

Yesterday we set off for the main square, working out how to use the tram at the same time. We sat in the square for a coffee and watched the world go by. We went to the tourist office for maps etc and headed for the upper old town via the cathedral which unfortunately had been destroyed by earthquake in 1880 and rebuilt…but very nicely I must say with lovely stained glass windows.

We then wandered around trying to find the market, succeeding after a few false starts. It’s a lovely market and Chris started buying cheeses, figs, corn and proscuitto, all of which I thought a little ill advised as we had to carry it all day but it I have to say it came in very handy when we had a lovely meal at home last night. We walked up and more up into the old town through the Stone Gate with the plaques for the dead lining the gate. We found a nice place to have a light lunch and a glass of wine. I must say our eating has settled down since leaving Slovenia and their massive meals behind. We walked up and around looking for a gallery we wanted to see, only to find it closed on a Monday!! Not to be daunted we went to the Museum of Naive Art which was really wonderful. We both loved the art. We got the funicular down from the heights and by then it was 4pm and I was tired and hot. I’m so wary of my leg so when Chris wanted to go out to some other gallery we parted company and I came home to get the leg up. Mind you parting company with Chris is an hourly phenomenon when I find myself looking around thinking where the hell has she gone now!!

As I said we had a lovely bottle of white in the fridge and the market food to pick at so this was a very relaxed evening at home which suited us both.

More after todays adventures.

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Its Sunday, this must be Croatia

Another lovely day today driving through the Serbian hills along the wine trail from Ptuj to Jeruzalem and Ozonom. Beautiful wines, gorgeous countryside and a nice (light) meal along the way. Then on to Zagreb and our Airbnb for the next 5 nights which is lovely but which is, unfortunately on the fucking 5th floor. Oh well fortunately I’ve made it up twice now and I guess it can only strengthen my legs for the massive hike down to the beach at Trieste. The apartment is good but the sense of how far things are is worse in Croatia than in Italy i.e. it is advertised and confirmed by our host that it is 500M from the main square when in fact it is 1.7 km. Our host said it was a 5-10 minute walk…well all I need to say about that is that he is a professional tennis player so he can probably do it in that time.

No complaints, it is much cooler today around 28 deg which is a huge relief in a town like Zagreb. We walked into town for a meal, got some stupid bloody Croatian crap money and walked home again. Its late, we’re tired and ready for bed.

Thanks for your email Rose, it is SO lovely to get an email from someone!! My leg…thank you for asking…it is holding up really well but the crunch is coming when the antibiotics finish tonight. I’m a bit scared of this moment but here’s hoping. It certainly looks good…scarred a browny colour but it has lost its hot redness so all should be well. I’ll take a photo in the morning and watch it closely. Starting to walk more and more so if all goes well i’ll be nearly normal.

Chris has changed your name in her address book Hammy!!! It is an old old entry into the address book. I haven’t even seen the photo she sent you.

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Slovenian wine and monasteries

Today we left our lovely little farmhouse accommodation and set off for the wine region of Slovenia. We headed off to Brezice and travelled through the the beautiful winding hills heading north. It was a beautiful drive heading for Bizeljsko which is the centre of the wine region. The hills are steep and the vines tumble down the slopes without any terracing. You just can’t imagine how they work up and down the rows particularly in the wet and the snow. Our first major stop was at a winery called Najger. This is unique as they store all their wines in Repnice. These are small sand caves hewn into the hills under the vineyards. They used to be used to store their vegetables (notably turnips) all year but the wine makers latched on to them and they are now used for wine barrels and bottles. The temperature is a constant 7-11 deg C and the humidity around 90%. This winery makes between 27 and 30,000 litres and they sell it all to tourists. Needless to say we bought some to add to our travelling wine bar. But not before we’d tasted them to make sure we liked them!!

The lady there put us on to a place for lunch again gorgeous but we’ve wised up a bit and we no longer take their lunch special which turns out to be 4 courses. They are a little surprised when we insist on just one course!! Then we headed off again this time to Olimje Monastery which is very beautiful. Behind the monastery is Syncerus Chocolaterie. Just full of beautiful chocolate which, of course, meant we had to buy supplies for our journey too. Then onward and upward to a most beautiful 2000 yr old town of Ptuj. It is a most beautiful town, second only I believe to Ljubljana. It is lovely and the Ptuj Festival is in full swing tonight. We are staying in a nice hotel and through the windows is the thump thump of the music blasting from several venues around the town. Its a lovely festive feeling. We realised later tonight that we’d left our beautiful chocolates in the car…they no longer look so beautiful but no doubt they taste as good!!

Its bed now and Zagreb tomorrow.

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More adventures as we roll on through Slovenia

I can’t remember where I got to last time but I think I was in Firenze waiting to have final drinks with the girls. That happened. Drinks in the roof top bar of this fabulous hotel with a view of the Duomo. Too hot to be outside but the view from the picture window inside was to die for. They went off and I wandered around the town at sunset. Still stinking hot but slightly more bearable. I wasn’t going to eat but I stumbled across a lovely little restaurant so in I went and had a risotto and a wine to finish me off for the night.

Next morning, which, bizarrely, was only yesterday, I had an amazing breakfast (included) and I set off walking to the station. 1.2km…nothing until you add the heat which turns you into a melted icy pole in a flash. Anyway no problem and by some strange miracle Chris and I managed to get ourselves onto the same train. We got off at Venezia Mestre and the hire car place was closed from 12.30 to 2.30 as is the Italian way. So, again in the Italian tradition, we had lunch! Picked up our little Citroen 3 and off we headed for Slovenia. It was a long haul and we finally made it to our ecotourism farm where we were staying for 2 nights at around 7.30. Phew. We have a great room which actually has 2 bedrooms (I keep thinking how relieved Rose would be). Included is the night meal and it is all produce from the farm and is totally delicious. They also make their own wine from their own grapes and again delicious. We sat around eating and drinking in a beautiful garden setting which restored us to normal pretty quickly. After dinner we sat out on our balcony and had another glass of wine we had smuggled in!! Then bed which would have been perfect had it not been for the fucking zanzari that chose to bite me and only me!!

This morning we had a delicious breakfast of all the farm produce including home made bread, apple juice, yoghurt etc etc. Then we set off for a day of exploring Southern Slovenia. Just like last time 2 years ago I just love this little country. So beautiful and so proud. First we went to Peterlji Monastery which is nestled in the hills surrounded by vineyards on steep steep slopes. They make their own wine and after we visited the church, had a look outside the monastery (you can’t get in), then of course we bought a bottle of their white and a bottle of red just to keep our supplies up. We also visited a lovely old house and farm buildings which was a treat. It had a traditional Black Kitchen which, Ang and Kirst makes the black kitchen an art form!! It was also full of animals that followed us around!!

By this time it was so hot and a man told us that this was Slovenia’s hottest day EVER i.e. EVER. The previous hottest had been 40.9 70 years ago. Today was 42!!! He said they are usually more used to having 60cm of snow.

So…what do you do? Chris had read about a restaurant (Gostilna Vovko) so we made a beeline for there. We had a massive meal with veal shank. The servings are huge. For more than you want really!! But it was delicious. After lunch we went off to a town called Kostanjevica na Krki. This small provincial town in Slovenia has the most amazing gallery, The Bozidar Jakac Gallery in a Cistercian Monastery. It has a vast collection of Slovenian art by Jakac and the Krajl brothers Tone and France that I loved. But it was SO hot I honestly wondered whether I could keep going or not with the sweat pouring down my back. After this we went and sat by the river of the town where the families were all swimming and had a beer and a wine to cool off a bit.

Then we drove back here via the Otocec Castle but there was no stopping at this point. But then Chris got a phone call from the ceramic shop saying that you horse woman was in H&A. Now, it wasn’t supposed to come back up to Rome and I was going to go and pick it up. But here it was in Rome with the one major problem that the shop was closing within an hour and they wouldn’t be back until 9th September!!! FUCK!! Chris nearly drove off the road at this point. We pulled over and she rang a friend of hers who, thank god was actually home. He ran off to the shop (poor guy had to pay as well)…anyway alls well that ends well and the Horse woman is now being baby sat in Rome!!!! Wow!!

Anyway we got back here, had another amazing home cooked meal and we are both now so pooped its time for bed. Tomorrow we head off to Ptuj where we will spend our last night in Slovenia before going to Zagreb.

Its a great adventure so far and the leg seems to be holding up so far….touch wood!!

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The last few days of the Lucca whirlwind

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The photo is a takeaway Spritz. I mean how good is that?

Anyway. I forget where I was up to! I think it was Monday when the photography exhibition was closed. Then we all met up again for the mandatory aperitif before going off for a meal…the one where we spilt an inordinate amount of wine on the table.

That was a fun night that ended farewelling Andrew, Desiree and Gail as they were heading off to the Cinque Terre and I was leaving before they got back. Then Ann and Simon arrived after 11pm to stay the night as they had a night of homelessness. That all went to plan.

The next day was 39 deg again. The 3 of us set off for a fabulous breakfast place and sat about for ages. We then we went home and sat in front of the little air con unit until their place was ready for them to move into. Off they went and I went out to see the photography exhibition I’d missed the day before, arriving in a giant pool of sweat. Fortunately it was small and manageable and very enjoyable. I then went to get my first gelato since arriving in Italy. I went back to what used to be one of my favourite places but it definitely didn’t live up to expectation and my gelato treat turned into a gelato disappointment!! Then home again to cool off before the drill of meeting for aperitifs and then a meal. This time we went to a fantastic wine bar for our drinks and then a really fabulous restaurant where Ann knew the owner. This time it was Ann, Simon and Carmel. We had a great meal, sharing plates and enjoying everything.

Ann and Carmel decided that they were going to come to Firenze with me in the morning. So home for a last night in Lucca. Tidied up and packed up in the morning and Ann came to my place to pick me up. We met Carmel at a place for brekky and then they took my bags from me and off we all headed to the station. I was so glad to have them. It was hot, the elevator at the station had broken down and the regionale trains are like mountains to climb up on to!! So that was great.

In Firenze they went off shopping and I plodded off to my hotel. By the time the train got in at 12md the temperature had climbed to 40 deg. So I arrived at my expensive hotel in a pool of sweat with a face like a fucking beetroot!! I’d booked a single room of course but they told me they would upgrade me and here I am in a fabulous and massive suite. It is unreal and totally wonderful. I regrouped briefly and then set off for the Mercato San Lorenzo where I was meeting the girls for lunch. It was a 20 min walk away and when I got there I was once again like a walking, dripping beetroot!! But a glass or 2 of prosecco later and some pasta to die for (a truffle pasta that was truly divine stands out) and I was revived enough to head back to the hotel while they went off for some more serious shopping.

I only got half way to the hotel before I had to stop and get a juice to maintain my equilibrium. I came back here and flopped on my lovely bed under the air con. That was an hour and a half ago and I’m waiting for them to finish their shopping and meet me at the hotel for drinks in the bar before they head back to Lucca and that really will be it!!

I must say I couldn’t keep up the pace for much longer but it has been the most amazing time of being swept up with friends and feeling very much part of something extraordinary. Chris is worried that my expectations will be too high for the next phase of this incredible holiday. We meet on the train in the morning and that will be great too. First night in Slovenia I’m told after picking up the car.

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Yesterdays adventures

Next episode now: The famous and much anticipated lunch was yesterday. I stayed home in the morning with the foot up in preparation for an afternoon of eating and drinking.

We got a taxi to this restaurant called Butterfly outside the walls and down along the river in the most beautiful garden setting, We sat outside for the next 4 hours and ate the most amazing degustation menu accompanied by wine. It was really very special.

I had a little wooden box that I found to put my leg up and I was in heaven!!

There isn’t too much more I can say about that. It is quite an achievement for us all to be there.

We got back to Lucca and I had a couple of hours rest before we met again for drinks. The Italians always give you food with your drinks so that was meal enough after lunch.

Over drinks I had a consultation with the dear and wonderful Dr Andrew who felt that my leg wasn’t good enough to stop antibiotics ( a bit red and a bit warm) so he wants me to stay on them for another course and then stop with leg up ++++.

I can’t tell you how good it is to have him helping me. He thinks the back is broken (of the infection) but I need to treat it with great respect he tells me!!!

They leave tomorrow (Tuesday) but he is very happy for me to text/ take photos etc if I need to. Your photos were fantastic Rose because he went through them and saw what it was like when I left hospital and saw that it isn’t quite back to that point after the flight etc.. So…enough!! Suffice to say having him here was so fortuitous and has given me confidence. I hope the Calamia crew are reading this (in fact I might copy them into the email in case) because they will be interested in the important part Andrew B is playing in my survival!!

This morning I went off to get coffee. Bought some reading glasses and wandered a bit before coming home to get the leg up again. Andrew then txted and suggested we go to this exhibition at the art gallery as Desiree and Gail were out shopping. So off we trotted forgetting of course (Rosa you will know the feeling) that it is Monday and it was closed. So we had a coffee and back I came to…you guessed it….put the leg up.

We are meeting again this evening for drinks and a meal.

The others, Ann and Simon, have to move out of their accommodation for the night tonight so they have farmed their kids out to someone else and they are coming to stay here for the night.

I’m using this time in Lucca to get the leg under control so I can manage the next phase of travelling around.

Thats it for now… more tomorrow.

P1110777

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Here beginneth another adventure

Its been so busy since arriving in Italy I haven’t had a minute to do anything other than tell you I’d arrived. But there is much to tell and its all about having a lovely time.

The flight was as fine as long flights can be called fine. Everything went on time and I had a seat between me and the next person on both legs. Not enough to put the leg up or spread out but certainly great to relieve the squishy pressure.

On the second leg the woman next to me was the chatty type but quite nice really. It was her first time to Italy and she was travelling alone so a bit of a kindred spirit so we bonded enough to share a taxi into Rome which was great so I didn’t have to get on the bus or train and the cost wasn’t formidable.

I arrived and Chris was at work. At this stage I was really worried about my leg, it was red and looked like it looked when I first went into hospital. I thought it was fucked but there were things I had to do so off I went. Hair cut tick, set up phone tick (had to get a new number because they had cancelled my old one. Then buy reading glasses tick and then I’d promised to meet my new friend from the plane for a Spritz at Piazza Navona. Another tick. But worried about my leg I declined a second drink and went home to get it up. When Chris came home we drank lots of wine, ate and I went to bed. All in all jet lag has passed me by (again)and after a good nights sleep I was back to normal.

So next day, it was coffee in the morning and then off to the station to get my train to Lucca. It is hot and sweaty and I wandered up Lucca station to find that my friend Ann was there to meet me. That was so nice, she grabbed my case and walked me to my apartment. We then went out and had lunch together, sat for ages catching up. Then I tootled back to my apartment for a shower. Andrew and Desiree were also arriving in the afternoon and we all met up for aperitivo’s at 6. That was also amazing. That we had pulled it off and all had actually made their way to Lucca from Australia. Then it was on for a great dinner with Andrew, Desiree and Gail. More wine and food and then they came back to my apartment for a bit more wine in case hadn’t had enough!!

So to today which is the day of the special lunch. We’re meeting at 12.30 to get into 2 taxis to get there. I’m spending the morning just lounging around with leg up…Ive even forgone a coffee!!

The other really good thing is that Andrew has been so supportive with the leg thing. He’s given me hope that it is not too disastrous. Given me lots of advice and will review it with regard to whether to come off antibiotics or not. So I’m more relaxed about it all.

More after the lunch. I think I’ve changed my mind about needing a coffee. Think I’ll wander off to get one!!

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Last day in Tokyo and Japan

Our last day in Tokyo was probably more enjoyable than either of us expected in that it did help us understand Tokyo a bit more, see different areas and different cultural aspects. We had to get up early to get breakfast before the buffet ran out!!!!! That was a total exercise in futility. The breakfast was, as you’d expect, rather revolting. It left me feeling vaguely yuk!! So we went back to our rooms to shower and pass time for a bit until we went out. Our target today was the Harajuku area. The Too cool for school area of Japan where the young, the beautiful and the not so beautiful strut their stuff in all sorts of out there fashions…much of it very eye catching and eccentric. The whole area is full of the fashion boutiquey shops and trendy cafes, focused around a street called Cat Street. Everywhere there are people lined up waiting to get into a shop or a cafe…some of the queues going for 100s of metres. All very fascinating and great for people watching. The best part for me was having the second best coffee I’ve had in Japan, predictably in a cafe called Luigi’s!!

But I’ve run ahead of myself. The first thing we did was go to the Meiji-Jingu temple, a massive Shinto shrine destroyed in WWII air raids and rebuilt circa 1950. It is large and impressive but sadly much of it was under scaffolding as it is being restored. But the best thing once again was the gorgeous garden in the grounds. The Meiji-Jingu Gyoen. We both really loved it. It had a heavenly Iris garden, a pond full of water lilies etc. For the last time the Japanese know how to do a great garden. We walked from there up to Cat St. and the circular narrative goes on.

From Cat St we walked down to Shibuya Crossing, which can be equated to the Times Square of Tokyo. When we finally got down there in the heat Rose took one look and said right we’ve seen that!!! Well actually I agreed with her but would have dilly dallied a bit more before pronouncing it!! We came back to the hotel to regroup for the night and around 6 we set out to find a restaurant nearby we’d read of. Tonkatsu!! Like every night the maps tell us it’s 200M away but by the time we’ve walked around and around its a mile before we find it, this time with the help of a local store owner. This is a busy, busy area full of stalls, shops, street food and a red light element to it. A great area in short. Anyway the food was terrific and we basically headed home after the meal and a wee street desert on the way.

Thats it for the last time until we are home. Plane tomorrow night and we are bot so much looking forward to seeing you all.

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Back in Tokyo and pointing home

Hi all…. a really quick one because it was mainly a travel day, leaving Kyoto and choosing back for Tokyo. We’re staying in Ueno where the fast train leaves from for the airport. Also its a great area of Tokyo, probably the best area we’ve been in. It is full of restaurants and it is totally alive. Problem is we’re (for the first time) in a crappy hotel. It’s old, tired and generally not to our liking!! Breakfast is included but they told us that the breakfast bar isn’t replenished so you need to get there early!!! Really????

The good thing about today is that we found a great restaurant for dinner. It was a most delicious meal which included soft shell crab and wagyu beef. Wagyu sushi was to die for!!! For the record it was Teppanyaki Grow Ueno

Got to go now so I’m up early to get a bit of brekky!!!!!

One last day in Tokyo tomorrow!!!!

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Final day in Kyoto

We set off this morning for our last day in Kyoto. Tomorrow its back to good old Tokyo which is a bit of a shame but its been a fun ride along the way!!

Today we set off for Northern Higashiyama, another area nestled into the surrounding hills and woods and full of character and age. Our first stop was the Honen-in, a lovely temple that is hidden up into the hills, has raked sand and divine gardens again. The Japanese are the masters of the garden without doubt. We wandered around there, walked up hill and down dale through the gardens and loved it. When we left there we walked back down a little shopping street and we shared the best cream bun of all time…so delicious. Then we embarked along the Path of Philosophy, a beautiful walk along a little walled stream. The walls are a mass of plants and greenery and hydrangeas… just beautiful. We then headed back into the bustling real world. We wanted to find the Kyoto Craft Shop which we eventually did. Then we went for lunch and that was another of life’s treats. It was a beautiful old Japanese house with Tatami floors so we had to take the shoes off but fortunately we didn’t have to sit on the floor (although pretty bloody close!!). We had gorgeous traditional and beautifully presented Japanese food and I had sake and Rose a beer (in the smallest glass she’s ever drunk beer from). The setting was amidst a beautiful garden so it was a most pleasant lunch. We then jumped on a bus and were home around 3. Now everyday there is more to do and every day we plan to embark again. But once home we wilt a bit and then decide we’ve done enough until we go out for dinner!! Today was no exception.

We decided against Japanese for dinner and Rose found a great Indian place not too far away so we set off there and had a most delicious meal. The place was very popular and totally full. Then home!! A nightcap, a bit of preliminary packing and then its off to bed for a good night’s sleep before we have to be up and onto the train for Tokyo in the morning.

Another observation of Japanese life…where are the rubbish bins…there aren’t any!!! never anywhere to put your rubbish. And yet, no litter anywhere. Where does the rubbish go?? Its hard to understand that one!!

That’s it for today, we’re really starting to look forward to seeing you all again…can’t wait actually