Author: susan

Well what a wild, incredible night that was. Lightning, thunder, wind and rain. Extraordinary watching it flashing across the bay here on through the night. And this morning it’s COOL!!! We can’t believe it, although I’m sure by the afternoon it will be warm again for our last swim. Although I must say cooler weather would be great in Venezia, I’ve been dreading walking around there in the heat with no swimming to cool off.

Anyway yesterday was a great day. We set off, after our morning WiFi session, to Palmanova, a small town, as I said yesterday, designed in a nine pointed star shape with all roads leading into a large central Piazza, which is very pretty. It is surrounded by walls and a mote, has large massive gateways to enter the city and was designed this way as an eastern defence from the Infidels during the Renaissance. So it was nice wandering around there. It reminded me very much of Lucca with its massive wall and mote…Chris walked around the outside between 2 of the gates but I had a look outside the gates and decided to remain within!!

After that we went via another very small, lovely medieval town Clauiano (just a drive through) and then on to Udine, capitol of the Fiurili. This is a large town very similar to Bologna and very very lovely. It has a beautiful central piazza with elegant Medici-type buildings reminiscent of Venice (but no water). On top of it sits a castle. Very gorgeous. We went in search of a place Chris had identified for lunch, only to find that it was closed as many places are for this week of Ferragosto. So we found a fairly ordinary place, but on the divine central square, to sit and have something uninspiring to eat in a fabulous setting.

Up to the castle (a bus was very conveniently waiting to transport us up), a wonder around there, then a circle around the lovely town with its porticos so like Bologna, to the Duomo and back to the car finally. When we arrived in town and parked the car a woman gave us her parking ticket valid until 5pm…now there’s a bonus if ever there is one!!

There was one more town we wanted to see, recommended by Romano, the husband of Chris’ friend next door, Cividale. So, although it was now getting late we headed off. We got there and found the town enjoying a massive Festa. There was a large crowd and half of them were dressed up in medieval costumes. It was full on with food, alcohol, stalls and competitions including a foot race through the town. So of course we stayed on and ate and drank with everyone else, watched the parade, explored the stalls and generally got into the spirit of the thing. It was a lovely time. But then we had to get home in the dark and finding the right road was the challenge but we got back and just as we did the heavens opened. How lucky was that, just a bit of a drenching as we came down the treacherous stairs in the dark!! (with the help of iPhone torches).

Then the storms as I have said….I love a good storm I must say, and very heavy rain which waited until we were nicely at home.

Today is last swim / clean up day and tomorrow morning we have to head off for 2 nights in Venice. Then back to Rome for a final week before getting back on the plane. An awful prospect except that at the end of it I get to see my darlings one and all.

Really just a few words this time because nothing much changes!! Yesterday it was lunch at the same Mussel restaurant for some more beautiful fish. Then back for a lovely swim and then same again…read, lie about etc. Chris cooked dinner, wine, mossies and bed. Today will be different so tomorrow more interesting. Its even a bit cloudy for the first time and we are going into Palmanova (perfectly symmetrical renaissance town built on a Roman military design) and then on to Udine. I’ll let you know tomorrow. Its only today and tomorrow left here now so time is running out.

Otherwise that’s it …what else is there to say??

There really isn’t too much more to say this morning. It is getting hotter again and all trips into town/ internet cafe end up in a pool of sweat. But we had a lovely excursion yesterday into our favourite restaurant from last time. It is called, for the record, (and not what I called it yesterday) Nero di Seppia. And it didn’t disappoint. It is such beautiful seafood. I think it has been my favourite meal all trip. A superb pasta with anchovies, pine nuts, oregano, etc… just heavenly. Followed by a magnificent Sea Bream cooked to total perfect. Then desert… well I can’t even begin to describe that… a sort of de composition of millefiori.

We went off to the supermarket, got very very hot and headed back for the beach. My favourite times for swimming are first thing in the morning and then after lunch when the Italians have their rest period. But yesterday we were back a bit late and I was well and truly sprung. Out in the water watching them all pile down onto the beach/rocks. So I had to pretend I was gorgeous and come out smiling and chatting… sometimes I think I can be so like my mother!!!

We sit out at night usually with a simple pasta and salad and we watch the sun set. It is really lovely. Only 3 days left of this before we head for hot old Venice for a couple of days to the Biennale as we did 2 years ago.

Today we will probably go back to our Mussel place by the sea for lunch….life’s tough!!

The days of my boasting about the heaven lifestyle here in Trieste are slowing drawing to an end so bear with me. Yesterday after our swim we went into Trieste. First time we’ve actually been in there this time. It really is a most lovely town of the Hapsburg era and so far comparatively undiscovered by the hoards. We had a small lunch and a glass of wine overlooking the harbour then wandered the town. We were on a wild goose chase looking for a book shop Chris wanted which entailed walking around in circles for a bit. Then we went back to the car, which we couldn’t find for a bit….slightly insane at this point. It is very humid and sweaty!!

We came back here via the supermarket to replenish the wine supply and plunged forthwith into the sea. Such welcome relief and the Jelly fish (Medusi…I learn all the words for the pests that are out to get me) had gone completely, now there’s a relief!! It was the loveliest swimsuit deep in the startlingly blue water.

Then its lie about, read, do a magic puzzle, snooze etc until dinner time. Chris cooks the evening meal and we sit about until late talking about the meaning of life….well that’s it most days. One of my must does is to go back to the restaurant in Trieste that I loved so much last time ‘Seppio di Nero’ so maybe we will try to get in there today….apparently its very hard to get into.

Sorry this is so boring, maybe I shouldn’t do it each day for the time being but it keeps me connected!! Amongst all of this I do get homesick for you all.

Yesterday was the big holiday, Ferragosto, as I have said…big family gatherings and many descending on our strip of Paradise…but not so many. The good thing about the rocks is that it’s pretty inaccessible, its an effort to walk along the beach whereas we just pop out our stairwell and are inches from the water. Christine spent ages yesterday clearing a path to the water. An autostrada it turned out to be. With my rock shoes, I’m moderately able to manage. So into the water (I told you about the jelly fish), into the WiFi bar for our coffee and send/ receive emails and phone calls (thanks Rose it was so exciting to get a phone call). Then back for lunch, more swimming and reading etc.

But last night was different. The friends of Chris’ who are in the house next door had a feast for Ferragosto and they invited us. Their son who owns a bar in Trieste came down and his girlfriend. Their daughter-in-law is also staying with them with the 2 grandchildren and us so it was dinner for 9 and they had cooked up a storm. They cooked two large and delicious fish on the outside fire and they were divine. I kept thinking how much Louis would have loved that fish!! Anyway we ate, drank wine and ended up with grappa so that we could hardly move at the end of it so full were we. The end of another day.

Today the routine continues, the water looks inviting and so I will go off for my morning swim, then we will go in to find WiFi.
Ciao for now darlings all.

We got up yesterday and after a stop at our internet bar we headed off to Aquileia, a very small town about 50kms away that we had heard about but had absolutely no idea what to expect. It was hotting up when we got there and found the old Roman port area, we walked along and through it and really expected nothing else. So we kind of sauntered up to the Basilica and WOW!! The entire floor was covered in the most wonderful mosaics from the 4th and 5th century. It was enthralling and so gorgeous that we spent ages there, far longer than we expected to spend. There were also fantastic frescoes so it was a wonderful surprise.

We then stopped at a lovely bar near the basilica and had an aperitif then started back for the car stopping for the best gelato I have had (I’ve only had one other) this time. Delicious. Our walk back also took in the Roman Forum, also part of the site. So that was a great success. It was very hot and we headed back for the house, stopping to buy wine because the friends of Chris’ next door had invited us to dinner. We got back and although I was dying for a swim the sea was rough and it was high tide so I was worried about getting into the water without scraping my leg or falling over, so I didn’t go for a swim which was tough because I had to sit in the shade and let the mossies munch on me.

Later last night we went in next door and had a delicious meal of seafood risotto followed by delicious chicken with zucchini and lemon. That was nice. We were in bed later than we ever are i.e. after 11. Then I had an horrendous mid-sleep experience….I woke up and felt something in my hair and moving!! I grabbed at it and pulled it out, turned on the light and there was this massive (a couple of inches) caterpillar/slug on my pillow….aaagh!! It was all I could do to settle myself down after that horror-movie scene.

We will (hopefully) go into to our bar to send this this morning but tomorrow is a massive public holiday in Italy and nothing will be open so I will be off air for a couple of days.

That’s it for now my darlings. I think I may go in for a morning swim while the sea is calm and the tide out.

P.s Have just been for a most divine swim in crystal clear water….truly heaven!! Now into town for a wifi hit.

First full day in Trieste – first swim in the Adriatic for 2 years.

Here we are in Trieste. Went to sleep to the sound of the ocean and woke up to the sound of the ocean.

We set off this morning anxious to find our internet cafe and make our contacts. There are stairs – totally formidable stairs at the side of this house that are massive. There are over 100 and up and up they go. Knowing how paranoid I am about holding people up and wanting to set off ahead I told Chris I was going up and I’d meet her at the car as she had to talk to the woman next door. So up I went and got to the top with wobbly legs only to find there was no way up to the car that way. Fuck I thought I’ve gone too far so I went back down a few flights but couldn’t find the way out. The phone rang, where was I said Chris. I told her…oh no sad she, that’s not the way out. So all the way down I had to come, cross over to the next door house where we stayed last time and all the way back up…well old jelly legs nearly died in the attempt. Except that I didn’t.

The long and the short of it is that we eventually hit the road to the little village down the road. We tried 4 bars with internet and only on the 4th did we find a functional internet. With that we sat for an hour, didn’t speak and caught up with emails etc.

After that we headed off to our very favourite restaurant from last time overlooking the water and selling delicious food mainly focussed on mussels. Again we had a gorgeous lunch of seafood, drank wine (you’d be proud of the white wine I’m happily consuming Ang….that is before you were ashamed of the amount of white wine I can consume).

We did a massive supermarket shop after lunch to set ourselves up for the next 10 days, came home and staggered down the path/ stairs with our bags of shopping.

Today was a cooler day but by this time it was heating up so it was into the bathers and finally into the water. That was really hairy for my this time because you get into the water through formidable rocks and I was very anxious about scraping or knocking ‘the’ leg as well as my legs not being as strong as they were 2 years ago particularly after the forced immobility before I left. Anyway I did it without mishap and had the most heavenly swim in the crystal clear water.

After the swim we both sat about soaking up the sun. I must say this place is heaven but even heaven has spoilers and it is a constant fight to ward off the ingenious squad of mosquitoes (Zanzari, Ang) that know every trick in the book despite my bringing the Aussie weapons to fight them. They seem to love me, although I must say I believe they loved me less when I was on antibiotics…not sure if thats a scientific fact or not…anyway they are thoroughly enjoying me again now. Guess I’m just lucky.

Now its dinner outside overlooking the sea and watching the sun set. Tomorrow we’ll be off to that internet cafe again and then may be we’ll do a bit more exploring. So its bye for now darlings and I’ll send this as soon as I can.