Exploring Colombo

Blue sky today and very sweaty. A rather late start for a couple of unwinding travellers. Then out our front door and into a Tuk Tuk to go directly to the Fort Train Station to get our tickets for our ongoing journeys. That was easy enough as the man in the Tourist Information place just did it all for us. He then tried to sell us a driver for 3 days to get from Anuradhapura to Kandy and around. We said we’d think about it but for $287 we thought not.

Then we walked off around the Fort area looking at the lovely colonial buildings and ended up at the Dutch Hospital. This is as it says, an old Dutch Hospital but very now full of boutique, trendy shops and restaurants. One of the best restaurants in Sri Lanka, the Ministry of Crab is there so we booked in for a lunch, mainly because I wanted to. I munched on delicious, messy garlic, chilli crab while Rose had a chicken curry. It was an expensive treat for me, one that I thoroughly enjoyed. I was inspired by a woman at the table next to us who was travelling alone and sitting up there by herself with a whole bottle of wine, munching away on her crab. No idea where she was from but she was a role model.

Then we went off by tuk tuk to the floating market which wasn’t really a floating market and then to the Federation of self-employees Market, which was a real market but we had to walk around in circles to find it. We wanted to get a wine glass to replace said breakage and some beer to take home. Couldn’t find either so got in a Tuk Tuk and came home for our afternoon sit on the verandah with a glass of wine /beer and our books. Rose had to buy her beer at the House of Wine (aforementioned) which sells beer for $5 a stubby, that hurts.

The owner of the place we are staying in is an author and we bought his book at a Dutch Hospital trendy shop. We have an afternoon chat with them which is good because they give us some good ideas, and he signed the book.

One of the good ideas was to go to a nearby posh hotel called Red Cinnamon for a cocktail on their rooftop bar. We did and it was a lovely thing to do. Gorgeous views an infinity pool perched up above Colombo and a bar with divine cocktails. We restrained ourselves to one then walked off to a restaurant fairly nearby and had curries and hoppers but they didn’t have alcohol so we came back to our verandah fairly quickly walking the dark back lanes of Colombo (you do feel very safe here).

Another early night as we adjust to heat and walking +++. I’ve got the inevitable blisters again but keeping them well strapped up!!

Arriving in Colombo

A traditional send off last night with Ham and Az taking us out to the airport, dinner at P J O’Briens with the traditional paras. Lots to drink before embarking on Malaysia Airlines for the overnight flight to Kuala Lumper. Crap flight in a tired old plane with below average seating space, seat belts that left no room to move and grumpy flight attendants who were not impressed with the request for a second glass of wine. No sleep on the plane meant that the 5.30 am arrival in KL was akin to torture. Then 3.5 hrs of trying to stay awake and somehow trying to feel vaguely normal.

Sri Lankan Air leg to Colombo a vast improvement. Better seats, seat belts, food and service. 3 hours later we landed here and simultaneously the heavens opened. We had to get off the plane onto the tarmac and into a bus amidst a torrential downpour. Anyway all OK, got a Kangaroo Cab to our Airbnb at 17 Flower Road. Had to run the gauntlet of other cab drivers at the airport who made it hard but all good in the end.

Our airbnb is great.. A cottage at the back (but attached) to a beautiful colonial villa. We have our own large verandah, an upstairs bedroom for Rose and a downstairs bed for me. And…there’s more…a ‘House of Wine’ over the road…..how perfect is that!!

We settled ourselves in and then headed off by foot to find (with a modicum of difficulty) the National Museum which isn’t far from here. Got there with the weather holding out and as soon as we got inside the heavens opened again…thunder clapping around us but we were safe exploring the museum. Definitely not the most engaging museum ever but it had its points of interest. We weren’t so lucky when we left there and ended up pretty drenched on our walk home, via, of course, the aforementioned House of Wine. And now really relaxing for the first time on the verandah under the fans planning where to go for dinner tonight. Our host here, Mandy, just came and gave us a few tips so we’ll go out before too long for a real Sri Lankan meal.

Rose fell asleep so I decided we didn’t have to go out and id let her sleep. She then woke up and splattered a glass of red wine onto the floor and staining irreparably the soft stone floor. Oh shit, glass and stain everywhere!!

Then a Tuk Tuk to the Cinnamon Grande Hotel that has this fantastic outdoor Sri Lankan bistro under a massive Banyan Tree…the restaurant is called Nuga Garma (for future reference) and it was $24 for all you could eat. Delicious food in a perfect setting and the rain held off.

N.B. Problem we have found with the cost of eating is that although its cheap, every bill adds 10% service charge + 10% tax and then your expected to tip (we’ve shown a lack of enthusiasm in that department).

Tuk tuk home and straight to bed exhausted to sleep the sleep of the dead!!!

Last report

Happy 100th birthday Loris!!

This will be my last report as I start (a little prematurely) to pack up and try to get organised. Yesterday I took myself off to the big outdoor Roman market Porta Portese. God it was hot. I walked up and down what is a hugely long market and I bought myself 3 dresses all for 40 Eu so they will disintegrate fairly quickly but in the meantime they are fun. It was boiling and I walked back up to the top of the market only to find I’d left my hat behind when I was trying on dresses… so back I went. I haven’t carried that fucking hat all over the world…hardly wearing it I might add…to leave it behind in Porta Portese.

I was going to walk back through Trastevere but with sweat pouring down my back I decided I’d be likely to faint so I got on a tram. Home and under a cool shower and then in front of the fan…phew.
Nothing much more to report really so I think this will be my last email.

Really its time to come home, the party’s over and I’m just looking forward to seeing everyone.

Still hot in Rome

The weather is unabated and the endless hot sunny days are draining in a landlocked city. But yesterday was quite productive. I went in the morning with Chris who dropped me at Mr Ping’s, the Chinese Roman ‘artist’ I am devoted to to do my hair!!! So I have a Mr Ping hair cut and colour and am looking more gorgeous than I will ever look again !! I must say he is a genius hair cutter.

My black travel back has been slowly disintegrating but I thought I’d be able to use it to get me home. However the day before yesterday the wire of the disintegrated zip got caught in my dress and ripped a massive hole in it. That was it for the black bag…it was to be punished in a rubbish bin. So after Mr Ping I set out to buy myself a bag and was very pleased with my purchase of a leather bag. The sales are huge in August so it was 50% off….what more can I want. A most pleasing morning. Home for a rest, Chris goes off to meet up with friends so I loll about, then go out and have an aperitif at the local wine bar.

Chris and I went out and ate last night just at a local restaurant, sitting outside on a warm Roman night. Pretty good life. Today is Sunday and Chris is off to her friends place in the country to pick up her plants so she will be away for the night.

Only 3 more sleeps til I get back on the plane for the hateful trip home but I’m really looking forward to getting home now…can’t wait to see you all.

Loris would have been 100 tomorrow. She wanted to make it!! She would have been besotted with Louis!!

Hot in Rome

Back with the over century heat in a very hot city. Its hard to be outside for too long so I go off walking in the morning, come home around lunch time and stay put until the heat starts to abate. Its a routine and thank goodness I have somewhere to call home, where I can come and go to get relief. There is little more to say really. Chris is still here but will be going off to her friends for a night or two to pick up her pot plants that went on a holiday to the countryside in order to survive her absence.

So I’m enjoying Rome for these last few days and trying to enjoy the heat knowing I’ll be desperate for it in a week.

That’s it, I wonder how you all are and I’m excited that it won’t be long until I see you all again.

A Photo

Back in Rome, it’s so hot again. Unbelievably hot, so I’m just pottering around and coming home to rest, then venturing out again. So no blog today. Just a photo of beautiful me overlooking the Grand Canal.

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Venice to Rome

Yesterday morning we spent the morning enjoying Venice. And there really is no more beautiful city anywhere. It is so splendid it takes your breath away and you have to pinch yourself.

After a coffee sitting in a courtyard, we went on a vaporatto along the Grand Canal to see an art installation which is part of the biennale and was two hands reaching out of the canal and onto a building. We then got off at the Rialto because the bloke from the Hotel suggested we go to a department store that had just opened that had a roof view over Venice that was second to none. And it was indeed just too amazing with sweeping views of the canal. We just loved that and the department store itself within an old Palace is utterly incredible. But the area around the Rialto is just ghastly. It is as if every tourist in Venice is congregated there, its hard to understand because when you get away from the central tourist area it is quiet and lovely. We had a lovely lunch in a very local little restaurant, taking our time because our train didn’t leave until 4.30.

But the time did come when we had to set off. I went ahead because my case was in the left luggage and I was concerned that it may take me ages to pick it up. The walk to the station is always hot and bothering but I got there (with Chris’ hobby horse under my arm), picked up my case, met up with Chris and on the train we hopped. It was after 8 when we arrived in Rome and we got in a taxi. Once home it was a glass of wine, a pizza and bed….exhausted!!

Now Rome and here I am wondering if I should stay here for a week or whether I should go off somewhere for a few days. I do think Chris has probably had enough of me, but getting up the energy to go off again is rather huge. If I did go anywhere it would be to Lecce. But that’s a long way down!!!

A most beautiful city

There is not doubt at all that Venice has to be one of the most beautiful cities in the world. It actually takes your breath away and its hard to believe you’re seeing what you’re seeing. Because its the Biennale there are art installations all over the place to add to the atmosphere. But there is also no city in the where you are so likely to get lost and my poor little feet are testament to the phenomenon of walking in circles.

Anyway yesterday we set off for the Biennale all the way down the Grand Canal. And we had a fantastic day. We started by going on an English guided tour for 2 hours which really helped a lot. Then we went to many country pavilions. And the Australian exhibition was right up there with the best. It was done by Tracey Moffat and it had a refugee theme as did many of the exhibitions. So we spent the day looking at various types of art installations from a huge variety of countries. Then we went off to the Arsenale down the road to look at more. By the end of the Arsenale we were exhausted but not as exhausted as we were when we got off the vaporetto and got lost yet again….bloody hell. We got back to the hotel and had half an hour to rest our feet before going out to get an evening meal. Again walking the streets and piazzas at night you are so taken by the beauty of this city.

We fell into bed totally exhausted again. Today we spend the day here and then its off to Rome in the afternoon. A week in Rome…not sure what I’ll do with that week. Maybe go off on a little trip for a couple of days….maybe not!!

Venice

No running off up 100 steps to get to the internet bar this morning. It’s out of bed, sitting at a little desk overlooking the canal. Chris has gone off for a walk so here I sit very happily saying good morning. Yesterday was a long and busy day but it all went OK.

We got back to Venezia Mestre to drop off the car. No problems with the car. Little scratchy-poos not noticed, to our relief. We then loaded up like pack horses…Chris, particularly, ends up with a whole lot of junk she gathers around her on the way (including a hobby-horse she bought at the festa the other night!!), and got on the train to take us into Venice.

I had packed judiciously with my little day pack so I went to left luggage with my case. Not sure if that was a great decision, it cost me 36Eu but good not to be lugging a case up and down steps around Venice. However at the big bridge a young bloke grabbed Chris’ case and carried it up for her. He was looking for money of course but didn’t get any!! Then I thought I could have given him a few Euro and saved myself a fortune….but then there’s getting back to the station with afore-mentioned case. Anyway for my sins I ended up looking like a right idiot carrying a fucking hobby-horse through Venice!!

We got to our familiar Venice Hotel, Hotel Della Mora, a very simple, unpretentious place that we both love. As I have said it overlooks the Canal and couldn’t be more pleasant. Then it was off to take in this city and to find some of the Exhibitions that are running along with the Biennale. First though, a glass of wine or 2 and and a sandwich in a piazza near here.

Then we went in pursuit of 2 exhibitions by Damian Hirst that Chris was very keen to see. He is controversial and very different from anything else I’ve seen. The first exhibition was at the Punta Della Dogana and if it was only to see the building that you were there to see you would have been satisfied. It was a fascinating and engaging collection in the most fantastic setting with the sculptures set against the backdrop of the Grand Canal. So that was great. Then we went off to the second exhibition of his works at the Palazzo Grassi, another great venue and another view of his amazing work….if not a tad of overload for me but not for Chris.

Then lets try and find our way back to the hotel….oh yeh!! This is Venice remember!! Round and round and round she goes!! Anyway by the time we got back to the hotel we had just enough strength to get a glass of wine to our lips. But a little later enough oomph came back to get us down the road for a quick meal before bed.

The beds are very close together here Rose, you would die!! I found myself shoving them apart….old habits die hard!!

Today it’s off to the Biennale and from what we hear the Australian pavilion is one of the best so thats’ where we’re heading first off. It’s lovely to be back in Venice, it is such a beautiful city and it is very easy to stay off the tourist trail and in lovely areas that are not crowded. However I’m sure we’ll be missing our swims as the day heats up.

Post on the run

We’re on our way to Venice now. Got all the luggage up the horrendous steps successfully and heading off to get the car back (with a nasty scratch along the side….we were “keyed”).

Yesterday was the usual. Lunch at restaurant on the sea front that we walk along to. Swimming in the afternoon. Gorgeous weather, no longer so overwhelmingly hot!!

More from Venice