Author: susan

Long, long day of flights. From Udaipur we had to go to Delhi because Mumbai airport was closed. We had to go through the whole security horror and luggage horror where we can only take 15 kgs on these internal flights and people (not me) had to pay excess. It went on and on. We finally got on the plane in Udaipur and off in Delhi. Unfortunately we had to get our luggage and go through the whole check in thing again, and security etc.

Anyway long and short of it is that we are here in Aurangabad and in a nice hotel only to be up at 5.30 in the morning to make our way to the Ajanta Caves. From what I gather it will be an arduous day of climbing. They do offer seats to be carries by 4 men for some people and some members are taking this up but I wouldn’t be seen dead doing this so climb I will.

A short one today…tomorrow will be big!!

Ajanta Caves

This exhausting/ amazing tour just keeps on rolling on at a cracking pace. After getting to Aurangabad late, having a late dinner and falling into bed, we were woken at 5.30 am to get ready for a 7am start. On the buuuus!!!

But one of our group, one of my favourite people, Natasha wasn’t with us. Overnight she’d got a call that her sister was very ill (???), her parents weren’t coping with it all so she had to get on a plane back to London. I’m sad that she isn’t here any more…she is such a bright spark, and one of my mates.

To continue…It was a long 3.5 hr drive to get to the Ajanta caves. The last 5kms we have to transfer to a government bus which is just barely holding together and is so full you cant move. Anyway we got there and the fun began. First a steep climb up a hill…fortunately there was a ramp and some stairs so I was able to opt for the ramp not that that was easy. The sun beats down on you and you sweat like a pig as you climb and climb. Memories of the caves in Sri Lanka

That got us to the first caves. Caves 1 & 2 were spectacular…covered in remarkable paintings covering the walls and ceiling. They are intricate and detailed and tell the stories of Buddha and of court life dating back to the 2nd century. The caves were monasteries and the monks cells were carved into the walls. Some others were temples with stupas inside and beautifully carved rock. The carved out the caves completely from scratch, a monumental feat. Carving statues and pillars from the top down and then creating these amazing paintings in what must have been nearly complete dark. All a bit awe inspiring.

We walked along through the caves, there are 30. Cave 17 again has spectacular paintings throughout. We walked up and down masses of stairs as we made our way along the caves which are a horseshoe in the mountainside. It was blazing hot and sweaty business but I did it and again, it always feels good to get the job done. One of the women on the trip was transported by 4 men carrying a palanquin. OMG, save me from this humiliation.

We had lunch in a restaurant at the caves which was fine and then had the long drive back here to Aurangabad. Everyone was exhausted.

We now got a couple of hours to shower and ready ourselves to go out to dinner tonight for tandoori which will be a welcome change.

Back from dinner. It was the best meal we’ve had yet…really delicious and for once not a buffet so that was good. We then needed to finish off the gin before tomorrows flight so I went off to Laureen’s room for a bit of a chin wag and a night cap.

Big day again tomorrow…must get some sleep

We set off on the bus this morning, everyone coughing and spluttering. Except that I’m definitely feeling as if I’m on the mend.

We drove around the lake that the hotel (Hilltop Palace) overlooks, Lake Fateh Sagar, and went on to a lovely C18 garden that was designed for the Queen of Udaipur for her 48 maids to enjoy. It is called Sahelion Ki Bari Gardens. Beautiful fountains, lily ponds and lovely lawns and plants…a very peaceful and gorgeous place.

Then we went on to City Palace. Another of those beautiful palaces on a hilltop with a steep climb up to them and then stairs, stairs and more stairs to get up to the top. The palace overlooks another gorgeous lake, Lake Pichola, in which sits the famous Lake Palace Hotel. The Palace itself was built in 1725 by Maharana Udai Singh and is ornate, and splendid…it is actually 11 palaces kind of rolled into one. And it was crowded, so crowded with little concept of waiting or queueing. If there was a fire you would very definitely get trampled. The palace is still the home to Udai Singhs ancestors who actually remain rulers of the independent state.

We then walked to a restaurant for lunch. It was underwhelming and I’m starting to find it hard to keep eating the buffet food. It is all really good, tasty etc but I’m a bit over it. Anyway, after lunch we went to the Mewar Art Gallery where they do these superb, fine, sort of miniature paintings which I love. They do the coarser work with brushes made from the camels eyebrow and then the fine, fine work with a squirrels hair. We watched them in action. I bought myself a painting and this time I don’t regret the purchase, I love it.

We had half an hour back at the hotel before setting of for a boat cruise on Lake Pichola. It is so beautiful, surrounded by mountains. In the centre is the Lake Palace Hotel, on the banks are the City Palace and the Lake Palace (Nag Niwas) which is supposed to be the world’s finest hotel. We stopped and got out at Jagmandir. Another palace now hotel that played a significant part in Indian history…but I’ve lost the plot a bit. Suffice to say the sun set over the lake, the palaces and hotels were lit up and it was a magical boat trip. Except that we had to wear life jackets and mine came up over my head which sent everyone into hysterics….I have a photo which I might send to you!!

7 of us did an optional extra tonight. A dancing, puppet, singing show that really was fabulous. It was jam-packed full of people and the kids just adored it too.

Back for dinner and now getting ready for bed. We fly to Aurangabad via Delhi tomorrow. Its been a long day but a thoroughly enjoyable one. I love Udaipur, I think it’s my favourite city so far.

Another eventful day, although the eventfulness was rather unexpected. First I will explain with a little background. Everyone on the bus is hacking away with a cough/cold so for a few days now there have been stops at chemists and I have been checking what’s in the drugs for them. So I have become the completely inappropriate advisor on health issues. This is the background and now I will begin the day.

We left Jodhpur and drove for about 4 hours to lunch. We stopped for lunch and were getting ready to leave when one of the group, a lovely Englishman called Frank ( I love this English couple, Frank and Karen) blacked out and face planted on the floor. He was unconscious for maybe 30 seconds before he came around. Blood pouring from a cut to his nose where he had hit the table on the way down and taken a goodly chunk out of the bridge. He’d cut his lip etc but more worrying for me was why he had blacked out.

Anyway Hassan is yelling out Susan, Susan and everyone was running for strapping etc. His poor, dear wife Karen was distressed of course. Anyway they thought it needed stitching so there was a very small hospital nearby. Karen, Hassan and I went to the hospital with him. We bypassed the many Indian people waiting for attention and were ushered straight in. Yes, they wanted to stitch it, I didn’t know how they were going to stitch a chunk out of a nose but I didn’t want to make the call.

They sent us all out and wouldn’t let us watch the procedure….god knows what the hand hygiene or sterile technique was like and I haven’t been able to look at the job they did because its got a bandage on it. I’ll just have to keep an eye on it over the next few days. Frank was shaken up but is OK now. Karen described a previous episode where he had blackout out at the dinner table so I’m guessing he’s having little TIAs…not that I’d know but I’ll certainly be telling them to go to their doctor when they get home.

Next stop, the most beautiful Jain Temple in all of India. Ranakpur. Built C15, The main temple in the complex is Chaumakha (four faced) Temple. And it is truly superb. There are 1444 pillars that are carved intricately and magnificently. There are 29 halls with roofs whose carving is hard to take in it is so beautiful. All in all stunning.

Then on towards Udaipur through a mountain range where the superb driving skills of our driver Mr Singh were put to the test as we twisted through the passes, meeting other busses/trucks/cars and having to negotiate our way around them. The route was lined with monkeys along the side of the road. We finally descended into Udaipur, a beautiful town with 5 large artificial lakes, palaces, temples etc. To be explored more tomorrow.

To our hotel, the Hilltop Palace…and it is just incredible and so very beautiful. It overlooks a large lake. Our room has a balcony and a glorious view (and two beds very close together!!!). We went up to the rooftop bar and sat out on a gorgeous balmy night having a drink before going downstairs to the outdoor dining area overlooking the lake.

We have a big day tomorrow so wont be able to enjoy too much of the hotel but it does feel like a lovely place to be.

Another big day where I once again did a bit of financial damage, I have now sent 12kgs home and no-one will see anything until Christmas comes along!!

But once again I have jumped ahead…just full of all the things that are happening.

This morning we set off to see the Umaid Bhawan Palace. It is marketed as the one of the last great palaces of India. It is now the number 1 hotel in India, a museum and a private residence. We were allowed to get into the museum part and it told a story of the splendour of the Raj era, the wealth and the lifestyle that they emulated…but still I fear they were under the British in the pecking order.

Anyway, that was again splendid. Next we were piled into jeeps and taken off to see a house and villages of the Bisnoi Tribe. This is a tribe that follows 29 principles of a non-violent Vaishanavas sect…founded in the C15. Non-violent yes, about 30 of them were murdered by hugging trees that the government wanted to cut down…taking drugs, however, no trouble!! They demonstrated an opium taking ceremony where they crush the opium, mix it with water and gave us all some…I asked for a second dose!! …needless to say the amount of Opium was minuscule but maybe I can blame that on my later buying spree!!! Still it was interesting and we saw their way of life which I would never have seen otherwise!!!

From there we went to lunch in a gorgeous hotel, by the swimming pool. We rarely get to use these gorgeous pools but they are everywhere.

Then off again to another of those enticing textile factories where they make beautiful stuff at prices that defy logic. The women were looking up the prices on line in London etc and they are massive compared to here, so you get sucked in…well and truly!!

Did I tell you, I don’t think I did that when I bought my 2 tops in Jaipur…the orange one in the photos and another blue/ turquoise one, they were supposed to take up both but we had bargained them down so hard that they got their own back by taking up only one and giving them back assuring us both were taken up. I had it with me and when I saw the workers at this factory pumping away at their sewing machines I wondered if they’d take up my top. Laureen, bold as brass, asked them if they’d take up my dress/ top. So they did…all for $2 AUD which they didn’t ask for but I tipped them. The Russian lady would have charged me $30.

So I bought a few things today. Hassan had told us they would also post other things we bought in order to get our luggage down to the mandatory 15 kgs. It cost a bit but I got rid of 12 kgs. Hopefully everything will arrive as planned.

Then back to the hotel, some people went to a veggie and spice market but I thought I’d seen enough of them in my day so I didn’t go. We had our usual G&T before dinner and then went out to another very posh hotel for dinner.

Back now, time for bed…I hope I don’t cough all night again. I guess Sally hopes so too.

More tomorrow. Goodnight

Another big day for the travellers, First I need to comment that I have had a cold that has developed into a nasty asthmatic cough that is not only driving me mad but also everyone around me. In fact a number of people on the bus are coughing and spluttering. A cold has ripped through the bus but in my case, and I’m sure in other cases it has become really asthmatic due to the poor air quality.

We set off at 7am to head to Jodhpur. Nothing much to report. We arrived in Jodhpur at around 12.30 and came straight to our hotel. Some of us got our room keys straight away and some of us had to wait until the rooms were cleaned. No prizes for guessing which group we were in!! But it was all sorted out and we were ready to hit the bus for sightseeing at 2.30pm.

Our first destination was Jaswant Thada, a C19 royal cenotaph built in honour of Maharaja Jaswant Singh II. It was, of course absolutely beautiful. Climb steps up and up!!

Then we set off for Mehrangarh Fort. Now, steps up and up just doesn’t cut it. We ploughed up a very steep slope and some of the group stayed behind as you look up and see people miles above you in the palaces within the Fort. It is magnificent.

The blurb says that the palaces of Moti Mahal, Phool Mahal, Sheesh Mahal, the Sileh Khana and the Daulat Khana…noteworthy for the splendour and glamour of a bygone era…to quote. It was indeed splendid but the walk up was daunting, steep and overwhelming. Then you saw people way, way above you, even when you got to the first courtyard. I thought that there was no way I could do this, some stayed behind but I didn’t want to give up so up I went…and I made it, and felt very pleased that I had. The guide has given me a bit of a reputation for persevering that I have now to live up to.

Back down we came, and I confess I was exhausted. We were then to go to a fruit and veggie market, I was very underwhelmed by this, I mean how many fruit and veggie markets have I seen in my day??? But it was too late and was therefore ditched. Thank god!!

Back to the hotel. Had to sort out a few blimps with Sally, have a G&T with my NBFs and then I skipped dinner. Had washing to do, washing to sort for the hotel to do, emails to write and get ready for bed.

Well I did it!! Be proud of the old Momma who has now ridden a camel for the second time in her life…wahoo. Even the guide was proud of me…he told me I was very brave, that I did everything on the trip…all the optionals!! Lots of people didn’t do the camel ride but I did !! But I’m right out of sink in my enthusiasm, let me start at the beginning.

It’s been a very big day. We started off at a lake where they watered the camels who used to come through here on the Silk Road. The partition of India and Pakistan stopped that as the route couldn’t go across the border.

Anyway we then went on to Jaisalmer Fort. Another magnificent fort that sits on top of a hill but it is the only active Fort left in India i.e. there are thousands of people living inside the Fort trading etc. First we went to the Palace and clambered up steps looking at it in all its splendour. Splendour that we are getting used to …the days of the Maharajahs was indeed a most magnificent era and it was beautiful. We saw some Jain Temples that reside inside the fort including a massive pilgrimage arriving to worship there. We walked around the fort for a while in the blazing sun looking at the beautiful sandstone merchants houses with intricate carvings on the walls and beautifully decorated interiors (called Havelis).

We were then taken to a place that make patchwork quilts out of the dresses of the muslim, hindi and nomadic women. They buy the superbly handworked material from them and make them into these quilts and give them a share of the profits when sold. And they are truly superb…so I did a bit of damage there I’m afraid buying myself a wall hanging.

We then went off to a place for lunch. After lunch some people then wanted to go back to the hotel because they were done in, so they got into Tuk Tuks…but not me!! We had some more Haveli’s to look at. We walked and walked to get to them in fierce heat. They are amazing in the hand stone carving that has gone into them. They are 5 stories high and up and up went old Miss Stubborn to see it all. I was so glad I did!!

Back to the hotel for half an hours rest and then off to find the camels. As I said, people stayed behind and it wasn’t til the last minute that I decided I would heave myself up onto a camel. But I feel so good for having done it…quite proud of myself actually…it was probably thanks to the encouragement of my NBFs.

Having plodding across the dunes at sunset in what was a magnificent setting, we got back on the bus. We were all really exhilarated. Someone put on the music, Hassan brought out the rum, and the rest, they say, is history!!

Goodnight my darlings. More adventures tomorrow!! XXXXXXX

Same routine in the morning, hitting the road after breakfast. It was a better night last night, Sally slept better therefore so did I !!

The drive here to Jaisalmer was uneventful but interesting. There roads are full of cattle who just kind of feel entitled to stand in the middle of the road or saunter across it at leisure, along with the sheeps or the goats who burst out in front of you at any given moment. There are small mud dwellings along the way with thatched roofs and trucks so laden with hay or cotton or steel or whatever, that you wonder how they stay upright. Anyway we got here and again the accommodation is a palace-looking place called the Desert Tulip. A vast and elegant building with pool etc.

Oooops….Since I wrote that, a lot has happened. We went to our room at the Desert Tulip and it was OK. But others went to their room and it was dusty, dirty, toilets didn’t work, towels were dirty etc. Another tour group was here and they all upped and left for another hotel. Some of our group was complaining, so Hassan, our guide, decided we were up and leaving too.

Before the movr, we went up to a point overlooking Jaisalmer Fort to watch the sunset which was beautiful, then we came back to pack up and move. The guide went on ahead to organise things and we piled in the bus. Our driver Mr Singh dropped us at a hotel where they greeted us, put a bindi thing on our forehead, we sat down to wait for Hassan and get our keys. Time went on and we started to wonder. Then yes, we were at the wrong hotel!! Back on the bus we got and off to another hotel…this time it was right and it is lovely, an even more elegant beautiful palace but we were tired at this point.

First things first, a PD drink with my NBFs which is an important ritual now. And then down to the dining room for a meal which was nice, but as I’ve said, very repetitive.

Big day tomorrow. It’s camel ride day and it remains to be seen whether I attempt to do this or not.

Goodnight xxxxxxxx

We left our lovely tent hotel this morning after breakfast and drove for about 4 hours to Khimsar. We’re in rural India now and it’s always interesting to see the passing landscape. The negative thing that assaults the senses is the rubbish everywhere, along the side of every road, in every village. There is so much plastic everywhere to which we contribute by drinking multiple bottles of water…all the time.

We arrived at out accommodation in time for lunch and wow, it is amazing. We are staying at Khimsar Fort which was/ is a small kingdom, a branch of the Jodhpur kingdom. It has been converted into a heritage hotel and it is incredible…so much so that it cannot be described. It is just splendid with massive rooms (unfortunately Sally and I have the smallest of them), a palace incorporated into the fort that is still occupied by the family. There is a very large swimming pool too.

We had lunch in a sumptuous dining room and then play time for a few hours. We had been badgering our guide about needing more supplies of alcohol and he gathered a small group of us to walk into the town with him to buy supplies. We found it but noe wine, only very well priced gin. We bought 2 bottles !! and came back to the hotel.

There was a walk into town at 5pm but as we had already been into town we begged out of that and went and sat ourselves by the pool with a secret G&T (we ordered the tonic and then slipped in the G ). Sally went on the walk which was apparently good, but we had a lovely time relaxing and having swims.

Sally is sick and hasn’t stopped coughing for the last 2 nights. She is just as bad tonight so there isn’t much sleeping going on in our room sadly. I gave her my ventolin puffer and when we were in the town we bought another puffer and some cold tablets.

Anyway I’ve had a shower and we now have to get ready to go for dinner so more later.

Just had dinner on the fort walls overlooking the swimming pool and the fort all lit up. Amazing and a lovely meal with tonic water again enhanced surreptitiously with a wee drop of gin !!

Goodnight darlings and a special happy dreams Kirst!!

A very uneventful bus trip today from Jaipur to Pushkar. In Pushkar we are staying in a luxury tent city resort. How to explain this place. It is a massive vegetable growing plantation with greenhouses all over the place, growing cauliflowers among other things. Then there are these tents. Sally and I have our own tent but really it’s a large room with a wooden floor, proper beds, wifi and air con so very comfortable.

We arrived, had lunch, an hour or so break before heading out again. We have had an attempt at getting alcohol but it is a holy city so no luck at all. We can of course buy it at the hotel for an arm and a leg (literally e.g. $75 for a bottle of Jacobs Creek)…so I guess its beer for me!!

Then we set off in the bus again to the only Brahma Temple in India where the faithful come from everywhere to worship. A pretty ugly temple if you ask me but very holy. Nearby is a lake that is also holy and people get blessed. We had a blessing ceremony where I was given good fortune and a red dot on my forehead…I had to chant something, I’m not quite sure what and petals got thrown in the water. Then we all paid a tip for the pleasure…but I asked for good luck for my children, in my superstitious way. Now I have another band around my wrist that I cant take off or I’ll lose my good luck!!!

From there the fun started…we walked to the camel area of the town and had to get into a camel cart. I was totally convinced I couldn’t get up into these bloody carts but by now my NBFs won’t let me get out of it and up I got (with a helping hand). Then the trick is not to get totally bounced out of the cart altogether. There were 4 of us in our cart and I had to really struggle not to be unceremoniously extracted. Up a sandy track we went to a sort of nomadic village (looked very bedouin-ish) to a point to see the sunset on a sand dune. People trying to sells stuff at the point and kids running after the cart to try and get what they could out of us. It was a real bone shaker but I was very proud of myself for doing it, and like the jeep last night, it was fun.

We came back, had our beer on one of the verandahs and then went and had a meal. Sally had gone for dinner earlier. I’ve just had a lovely solar shower in my ‘tent’ and am ready for bed.

Jaipur is a lovely city and yesterday was another day exploring..another long and very tiring day!!

First we stopped at the Hawa Mahal (Palace of the Winds)…built by one of the Maharajas (I get them all very mixed up) so that the women of his harem could observe the streets of Jaipur.

We then went on to the Amber Fort. A fabulous structure perched up on the hills above Jaipur. This entailed getting into jeeps to take us up the hill and then going up and down stairs to view the impressive rooms including one covered in mirrors. It was really amazing, but everything is in this country.

From the Amber Fort we went to lunch at a hotel (not the one we are staying at)…the meals are all starting to have a sameness about them…always a buffet and the food is basically variations on a theme.

After lunch we went to a textile factory making block prints and fabulous carpets. We see how they are made, and they are made with incredible skill over a long period of time, and then are encouraged to buy. I resisted all temptation on this occassion, having done enough damage to date. But if I had the place for it I would just love one of those carpets.

Then we were given free time to shop in one of the fantastic bazaars that line the streets of Jaipur. Then I did do some damage biting myself a couple of tops.

From there we went to a place for dinner which was nice, outdoor dining, with dancers on the side…but when its all said and done it was a buffet in the end. Although they did have a tandoori oven and some nice tandoori chicken.

Then we had another adventure in store. From the restaurant we were picked up by jeeps to do a Jaipur by night tour. Now this really was fabulous. They light up the buildings at night and they are truly spectacular…castles on hills, the forts of course, and beautiful old colonial buildings all lit up. We went up the hill outside the city in open jeeps with the wind blowing, and the jeeps scooting along. My mates in my jeep just loved it although there were some wingers in other jeeps who felt scared (can you believe it???). We looked down on a spectacular Jaipur from about, it was a treat.

Back to the hotel in the jeeps and I joined a couple of other NBFs for a night cap before bed…then Sally coughed all night and I didn’t sleep much at all. I think its an asthma cough from all the pollution which really is bad…so I donated my precious Ventolin puffer to her in an effort to save both our sanities.