A more leisurely pace today as seemed to fit a Sunday. Definitely a festive feel around the town as the streets filled with Poles who seemed to come out of every nook and cranny joining the tourist throngs.
I stopped at my new found delightful coffee shop on my way into the old town and had a slow coffee and yoghurt to set me up for the day. Then I went in to see if I could manage a ticket to the Rynek Underground. The old ‘single ticket’ trick worked again although this time it was a 2 hr wait which was fine because it’s in the centre of town. So I wandered off trying to stick to the back streets which are: a)more interesting and b) less crowded.
I went to the Collegium Maius, ‘the oldest surviving University building in Poland’. It has a splendid Gothic courtyard which is a joy. There is a Museum inside the building but not open on Sunday so missed that one! However I was there at 11am, as luck would have it, when the C14 clock chimes and these little characters march around to loud Polish music…very satisfying.
The university also has a beautiful garden with seats and shade. Throughout the garden the story is told of all the University professors that the Nazis captured and imprisoned, many of whom died in Sacsenhausen. The indelible footprint of the Nazi’s in Poland at every corner. I found a bench to sit on and did a bit of reading but was distracted by the people- watching. My prize for most ugly tourist this time is the yobbo Pom ‘doing’ Poland to drink and watch football.
By now it was time to wander back up to the Rynek Underground. And this was a brilliantly done, interactive underground ‘Museum’. Its under the market square and is the ancient route through Medieval market stalls and abodes. It was fascinating, far more so than I was anticipating. I almost didn’t bother, getting a bit blase!
By now it was getting on for 2pm so I decided a leisurely Sunday lunch was the order of the day. I went to find one recommended by LPG, on the slightly posh side but I was in the mood. I got a great table, by the window on the busy thoroughfare heading down to Wawel. Great for people watching. I had just sat down when every man and his dog descended on the place and they were turning people away. It was a really fabulous restaurant called “Miod Malina”. I had a sheep’s cheese and cranberry sauce entree and a veal shank. It was unreal food and I took my time to enjoy it with a glass (2 actually) of wine.
After I finished I did some shop browsing drooling over some lovely ceramics and Amber that I couldn’t have, then I slowly made my way home via another church ( I do like the way the Poles do their churches) and a bottle shop where the cheapest wine I could buy was Jacob’s Creek…and this is Europe. Not sure what’s going on re trade agreements with Poland.
Now it’s get some washing done and read my book. Auschwitz-Birkenau tomorrow. That’s not a good feeling already.