Month: August 2023

Well, where to begin? Firstly, I’m in Milan but I’ll backtrack to tell the story of getting here.
As I said before I was allowed to leave my case at the Airbnb until 2.30 so it was an early trip to the airport for an 8.30pm flight. It’s hard to know what to do with your time when you know you have deadlines so I wandered around Vilnius..firstly my coffee, then browsing and walking around, then a bit of lunch. But wait, lunch! I was bitten by a fucking wasp for the SECOND time. Never been bitten by a wasp before in my life and now in Vilnius TWICE. This one was quite mean and I have a red angry welt on my arm that is driving me mad. the worst part is that there is no-one to whinge show and to.

Anyway, I got back to pick up my case and when I got wifi there was a message to say I could leave my case til 4pm. What was I supposed to do with that? So I declined the offer and went to the airport as planned. No dramas there. Vilnius airport is really a dinky airport. They have a coffee area but its up 2 flights of stairs with no lift access. No way I was going up 2 flights of stairs with a 20kg case and a backpack. So I stayed downstairs and got a coffee out of one of those press button machines. The airport was so dinky that I didn’t even set off the alarm going through the screening. Now with 2 knees and a hip that really is scary. So much so that I said ‘Really’? to the guy standing there. He just nodded happily. If you want to plant a b@#b, go to Vilnius.

Non-eventful flight. Plane 30mins ahead of schedule which gave me a glimmer of hope that I might catch the last train in to the city instead of having to get on the bus (a much better, quicker option). But I still had to get my case and my case is absolutely always amongst the last out the shoot. But what’s this? My case, the third case up. I set off for the long walk to the train station. I plowed along, managed the ticket machine and got on the train feeling very smug and pleased with myself.

Well, we all know that pride comes before a fall. I know this better than most and am always waiting for the fall. Which of course came fairly swiftly. I got off the train. I thought I was well prepared to find my hotel, only 400 mts from station. I had screen shot the map. And looked at it a thousand times. Off I walked and, of course couldn’t find it for the life of me. Eventually I turned my phone on and found I was now 700 from the hotel. I can’t follow those fucking maps for the life of me, specially when getting more and more anxious. Everyone knows what sleezy areas are around major train stations, specially at 1am. I’m standing on street corners desperately trying to work myself out but every time the map told me I was going in the wrong direction. Good Grief, this didn’t feel good at all. I spied a taxi dropping someone off so I commandeered him to his horror. Anyway, I begged him to take me. He took pity on me and took me the 700M to the hotel. Best 10 Eu I’ve ever spent. I was exhausted to my bones.
I hopped into the shower and fell into bed.

Today I’ve had the hotel breakfast and am just holed up in my room writing this. Soon I’ll head out. I’ve booked a ticket to go to the Necchi House on Chris’ recommendation so I need to find my way there. Otherwise, I’ve seen The last Supper, the Duomo, the shopping arcade, the Sforza Castle with Rose, in the pouring rain, so I’m not going to attempt anything else.
Hopefully I’ll find a nice comforting paper map.

Tomorrow its back to Trieste time. Already it’s warm. I’m back in a dress and sandals. It will be good to meet up with Chris. I’m ready for some company. Lots of love everyone XXXXXXX

Last full day in Vilnius and the Baltics. Tomorrow it’s back to Milano for a couple of nights before heading over to Trieste. Today was a nice day, it was cool but not a drop of rain fell on my head. I had looked at the weather and had changed from a dress to my jeans and jumper. That was a good move. I had my coffee in what has been my regular place here in Vilnius. I liked it from the start so didn’t have to run around looking for alternatives.

Then I set off to find Uzupis, billed as a Republic Inside Vilnius. You cross a bridge and you’re in alternative, arty, quirky Vilnius. It’s just lovely. Very tongue in cheek of course but I loved the ceramic and art workshops. Things like a swing under the bridge over a fulsomely flowing river which I gather people get up onto in order to make a wish. A mermaid also sits under the bridge but I’ll send photos. Sculptures about the place, lovely little wooden houses, their own constitution which you can image…everyone’s right to all sorts of lovely things. So that was a fun few hours. I had a bowl of cabbage and potato soup there (really, cabbage???) and an O/J. The only thing spoiling my pleasure was a lot of traffic and a helluva lot of tour groups.

Then I headed off back into town for some more wandering, though I must admit I was tiring. I checked into a couple more churches on my meanderings and I looked in multiple souvenir shops none of which did anything for me. When I picked something up because I thought one of the kids might like it, it was made in fucking China so no way was I going to buy it. I just can’t bring myself to spend my money on crap.

It was 4.30pm so I thought I’d have a glass of wine. I sat down…phew. As I sat there a woman on one of those electric scooters fell off. Honestly they’ll kill someone one day, if they already haven’t. The Palestinian woman I was chatting to yesterday said she’d seen a horrible fall where a woman face planted onto the tram tracks. Cobble stones and trams are hazardous obstacles.

Then I thought why not just eat early and not have to go out again. The place I was having a drink served Lithuanian fare, so I ordered potato pancakes stuffed with meat with sour cream. And really it was rather delicious, maybe because I was hungry and cabbage soup hadn’t done a thing for me.

Then I wandered back here and had a proper shower. By that I mean I actually washed my hair. And I’ll have a bit of time up my sleeve to start packing, or at least organising tonight.

Probably no missive tomorrow because I won’t get into Milan until midnightish. I’m already worrying that things could go wrong. Anyway, more soonish. Lots of love xxxxxx

OMG…I’m glad I’m fairly weather resilient and can get about in the rain, soaked to the bone, without too much trauma. Mum and Dads toughen up policy is paying off. I’m also glad that my Airbnb had an umbrella for guests. That helped a bit. I went off and got coffee this morning. The bus was picking me up nearby for my mini-bus adventure to Trakai. I looked at the sky and in my wisdom I scooted off back to the apt and got the umbrella. By the time the bus picked me up it was absolutely pouring already. All the way to Trakai (about 40 minutes), it totally poured. The bus dropped us off in a car park, a good walk from the castle which is on a little island in one of the lakes. Trakai sits surrounded by lakes and is a summer resort where people swim all year. Yes, all year. In winter they cut out a 25meter pool from the ice for the hardy. Also in the winter you can drive across these huge lakes without any additional insurance the ice is so thick. (I can only hope this continues as we get warmer).

Anyway, I digress, out of the bus we got. Everyone chooffed off towards the Castle. Me included of course but at my own pace. Well, as I walked the lightning flashed, the thunder clapped and the rain bucketed like there was no tomorrow. Very disappointing but on I plodded. Then, so superbly the rain eased, and stopped completely just as I got to the castle. I have long thought castles are most beautiful from the outside so I decided not to pay to go into the Museum in the castle, I’d learned all I can fit into my head yesterday about the history of Lithuania. So I went into the courtyard and looked around, then I walked all around the castle avoiding the ponds formed by the rain. It was gorgeous. Photos as usual in WA. Still the rain held out which could be seen as a sign from heaven.

I wandered around the little town. We had 2.5 hours to do our own thing and that was more than enough. Lovely wooden houses and fabulous setting on the lake. I got back to the bus early but it wasn’t there yrt. A Palestinian woman who was there with her brother and mother were also waiting and we started to chat. She was so interesting. A Palestinian from Jerusalem. Poor girl!! I made the mistake of referring to it as Israeli. She said it isn’t, it isn’t supposed to be Israeli but they are taking it without fear of consequences. It saddened her greatly.

By the time the bus got back to pick us up it was pouring torrentially again. The trip back took 1.5 hours as the roads were flooded, cars had broken down and traffic was horrendous. Fortunately our driver ploughed on through it all but it was a massive flood. I came straight back here to dry off and put my one and only jumper on.

I hadn’t eaten since breakfast so out I went again. I’ve given up on my hunt for a decent Lithuanian restaurant. The lovely woman guide on the bus (who took her own little paying extra group to the castle) said that Lithuanian food is potato and meat or meat and potato. She said Lithuanians aren’t like the French and the Italians, food is not creative but rather they eat for fuel to get through the long winters. So, I found a Portuguese Restaurant which was cosy and dry and expensive but I guess you can justify that by only eating one meal a day. And it was delicious (octopus and, you guessed it, potato) and 2 expensive glasses of Portugese wine.

Plans for tomorrow with more to see. Then the next day will be scatty. My flight for Milan leaves at 8.15 pm. But they can only keep my case here until 2.30pm so it will be an early trip to the airport.

The Baltics are nearly over and they have not failed to live up to expectations in any way at all. XXXXXXXX

I don’t know what happened to today. I was determined it was going to be a nice relaxed day but somehow or another I came back to my digs totally exhausted. A bit too much of the ‘I’ll just pop in there, I’ll just do a quick detour here’ and suddenly the day is over and I could hardly struggle home.

It was a gorgeous sunny day, the first in ages, with the temperature in the mid 30s. That in itself makes life exhausting when travelling. But I’m definitely not complaining as tomorrow is forecast to rain all day. Best enjoy it while you’ve got it. I set off after my coffee to find the Tourist Office, a task that took half the day to achieve. Firstly it had moved, but secondly as I wondered off to find it I got waylaid. First a ‘must see’ church, St Johns. In I went, oblivious to the fact that it was Sunday. No worries, I can sit through a church service while taking in the church itself. So I thought. But it was a very chummy, all-embracing bloody church and before I knew it I was being blessed, hand shaken and hugged. Shit I was embarrassed. I didn’t know what to do with myself except the old pretend to be invisible trick that they weren’t having a bar of. And the service went for at least an hour. Then they came along with the offering bag thingo. I looked blank and they had the decency to move on. Was it worth it? Not really, lovely blue stain glass reminiscent of San Chappelle.

The church is in the same complex as the University of Vilnius, another must see item I thought I should pay attention to. Nice quads/ cloister type buildings. Then I could hear drum rolls so I went in that direction which fortuitously led me to the Presidential Palace and the changing of the Guard. Funny looking guards with tin helmets and very serious flag raisings. Even the Presidents Palace is draped in the yellow and Blue. And while I’m on that subject I’ve sent a photo to show you the buses which all have the destination alternating with ‘Vilnius – I tried to insert a heart here but failed, you’ll just have to look at the photo-Ukraine.

I finally found the Tourist Office and it was closed for an hour. WTF. Fortunately there was a restaurant next door so I got an O/J and a bowl of soup. At the Tourist Office I booked to go to TraKai Castle on a mini bus tomorrow. It’s a gorgeous fairytale castle but as I said, it’s forecast to rain all day. Some luck.

Then I went to explore the sights in that area, the top end of town. The Cathedral (tick) and the Palace of the Grand Dukes of Lithuania. The palace was huge. A magnificent Museum but it gave the history of every Duke from 1200 onwards. How could I possibly retain this information. What I got from it was that Lithuania was quite a player in its time, was joined or aligned to Poland and was constantly marrying and fighting for territory. Russia and Sweden played a big role in trying to grab territory etc etc.

That took ages. Then behind the Palace is the Gediminas Hill. A shitload of climbing involved there. But wait, there is a Funicular. So, with one last burst of steam and effort I headed off to find the bloody thing to transport me magically up the hill. When I finally found it, it was out of operation. SHIT.

So back I plodded with the unhappy task of having to get back to the other side of town. After I got up the hill ( I mean street incline, not the real hill) on the way back, I stopped for a Spritz. Then I went on a bit further and stopped for dinner (it was 6pm by then) at a French Restaurant recommended by Lonely Planet. That was a quick way to spend a lot of money. And I got stung by a wasp…that hurt, literally!!

Oh and I forgot, to my complete surprise a group of Hari Krishnas Hari Haried through town in front of me today. I could hardly believe it. I thought theyd hari’d away about 40 years ago. I sent a photo just to prove it actually happened.

That’s it for another day. Love you all xxxxx

A day of highs and lows but no real disasters. These I am waiting for!! As each move is achieved I keep thinking that a disaster will happen at any minute. I am now right on the Belarusian border(not saying that will be a disaster)! As I write this thunder is clapping over my head outside, I’m grateful to be inside.

Anyway, to start on a positive. I went to my favourite coffee place this morning as I inhabited limbo before I had to go to the Bus Station. And the nicest treat was that a youngish Finnish girl asked if she could share my table. She was smart and very interesting with a great knowledge of world affairs. We chatted and chatted for well over an hour which was a delight. Covering everything from Russia, Jacinda Adhern, Donald Trump, China and Taiwan. She had just spent time in Taiwan and was very concerned for them. She has travelled the world, particularly Asia, but had never been to Riga before. A bit like me and NZ. I was sorry to part company with her.

I then went back to my apartment. I needed the owner of my Airbnb to ring a taxi for me but he hadn’t responded so I had to go back to get wifi. Anyway long story short my taxi arrived on schedule, another lovely man who again talked of Russian aggression. He said they had been waiting for Russia to try to invade since 1991. Remember the taxi driver when I arrived in Riga and him trying to charge 15 Eu and I gave him 10. The real meter charge today was 6 Eu… I gave the lovely man 10 (as you do).

I sat in the bus station watching the world go by for an hour, got on the bus uneventfully and then waited for a second driver to arrive for a half hour delay. It was an uneventful trip. All along the route there is thick forest lining the road. Fur and Silver Birch and dense and dark. It might sound ridiculous but all I could think of was Wagner forces hiding in there. I don’t really belive it but the atmosphere is right and the border is just there. On the trip they played ‘ I’ll be riding shotgun…’ and I got all misty thinking of singing along with Lou and Maxi. It poured and poured and poured for the second half of the bus trip and I was dreading the soaking I was going to get when we got there.

Finally we got to Vilnius, it was close to 6 and suddenly it stopped raining. Unreal but thank god. Then for my massive argument of the day. Taxis….fucking taxis again. There was one taxi there when I finally got out and he said 20 Eu. I said don’t be ridiculous. He said 15, and that’s my last offer!! I said use your meter. He said he didn’t have one. I wasn’t sure how far it was ( a rooky mistake) and I just wanted to get to the apartment so I said ok but I want a receipt. Anyway, sorry to belabour this, It was about a 5 Eu ride and I was furious with him. I told him he was a disgrace to his country. He said I’d agreed on a price (true). I took photos of his number plate just to scare him (ha ha you say, don’t be so naïve).

Then, as he’d just dumped me, not outside my Airbnb, I couldn’t for the life of me find it. So to add insult to injury I had to take my phone off airplane mode and pay for roaming to call the hosts. I was frazzled!! Moving days always give me the anxieties.

It still wasn’t raining and I hadn’t eaten since my morning croissant so the first thing I did was find food. Fairly horrible food at that, and a glass of awful wine 100ml only, so I had to buy 2!! The food is Polish/German (not the Liz Bowley variety). Very potato and sausage with sour cream. I’ll have to do better for myself tomorrow.

I went for a short walk and then came ‘home’. Showered, put on a load of washing because this is my first washing machine experience. The bathroom is smaller than your en suite(A & K) by quite a bit. In fact by a lot!! Now I listen to the thunder clapping and the rain falling. It nice when you’re not out in it. Hopefully it will all be over by the morning. Tomorrow, lets see what Vilnius has to offer me. Good coffee I hope. Lots of love to everyone xxxxxxx

Today the sun shone for most of the day, so much so that it was a bit sweaty getting around. It was a sort of ‘mop up’ day seeing a few things that I still wanted to see like the Powder Tower and the Swiss Gate. I wanted to see a museum as well, it was about the barricades the city erected around all their major buildings in 1991 demanding their independence. It was one of the star attractions but do you think I could find it. Round and round I went, I finally had to conclude I wasn’t going to find it. It remains a mystery to me. Anyway, it was a pivotal moment in Riga’s history when they manned the barracades and gained their independence.

I kind of mooched about today. I had my coffee in the best café yet – Conti- on Laipu Iela. Then I went off sightseeing at a leisurely pace, following little cobblestone lanes around what little is left of the old city wall. I had some lunch, at a leisurely pace, at a place called Neiburgs, which, by the way looks like a very nice boutique hotel to stay in. Round and round I went looking for the museum that is impossible to find. I also poked my nose into souvenir shops to see what I could see, which wasn’t much. Then I came home for an hour before going back out for dinner. This time, surprise, surprise I found an Italian restaurant. But all rather unremarkable. In fact the whole day was a bit unremarkable and windy downy.

Now to pack for a moving day tomorrow. The bus doesn’t leave until 1pm. I think I’ll get the Airbnb guy to ring me a taxi to get to the bus station but first coffee and a final meander to farewell Riga who has done herself proud. My head has started to turn to Vilnius and I do wonder how it can stamp its uniqueness as both Tallinn and Riga have done. Despite the fact that they are indeed unique, they have already started to run into each other as I try to. Remember which city it was I saw whatever it was.

This apartment has been nice apart from a scarcity of hot water and a very slippery shower indeed. So much so that I won’t be having another shower here. A short story today as I get started with the packing. Moving days always make me a bit more nervous.xxxxxxxx

Another busy day. I set out this morning to have a more restful day by being more strategic…me, strategic? It never turns out that way for me. Had a nice coffee this morning, so nice I had 2. Then I decided, in my wisdom, that I’d get a ticket for the Hop On Hop Off bus to save myself some legwork. But it just didn’t work out that way, in fact I should have given the 25 Eu to one of the homeless people I pass every day, it would have been better used. On I got and the fucking bus didn’t stop. It just plowed on and on. I had headphones but half the time I couldn’t see what they were talking about. It mainly covered the ground I’d plied on foot yesterday.

But eventually it came to the Cathedral stop and I spied the Radisson Blu which Kat had told me had a great view and a nice coffee from the top. So I leapt off the bus. But guess what, it was pouring again by this time. Not to be thwarted I made my way to the big, plush Radisson. I walked in looking like a drowned rat but no-one asked me to leave. I saw the skyline café and made a beeline for the lift feeling excited. Babooom…café not open until 3pm. So disappointing. I got a brief glimpse of the view as the lift descended. There was the Cathedral nearby but the Bus was supposed to come every half an hour so I was scared I’d miss the bloody thing if I went into the Cathedral. It was still pouring so I huddled under a tree getting wetter and wetter and waited for the bus. ONE FUCKING HOUR later it came by. On I hopped.

There were 2 things I wanted to cover today and the HOHO Bus was supposed to get me close to the first, the Central Market. But at that stop it was on the other side of a massive expressway. So I had to go down into an underground passage, then up and walk to the market. Fine…by this time it had stopped raining. The market was fun…I’ll send some photos. They really love their berries. Even Elle would be left gasping and defeated by the amount of berries of all sorts. The market is indoor and outdoor. The indoor part is housed in WWI Zeppelin Hangers. Of course there was lots of interesting browsing to be done. They have a food hall with all manner of things to eat. I sat at a table with an Italian Family. I had soup in an edible cup, weird and very unstable. Photo will come. Anyway, the Italian Family loved that I was travelling alone and how old was I???? Blah, blah but they were very sweet and they passed my lunch break pleasantly.

The second thing I wanted to cover was the Riga Ghetto and Holocaust Museum. It was not far from the market. So I walked down to it. I don’t know why I do this to myself. Somehow I feel I need to acknowledge the evil every time I travel. Riga was a centrepoint for the massacre of Jews in WWII. Not only the Latvian Jews but Jews from other western European countries were transported to Riga for execution. There was one of the rail carriages used for transportation and a little wooden house where 30 people were forced to live, that has been moved from the Ghetto to this museum. Enough said, I had to do it and I did. Between the Nazis and the Soviets, both of whom set about eliminating the Jewish people, the population of Jews in Latvia is a fraction of what it was.

No more finding my way back to the HOHO Bus, I’d had them. Yesterday when I caught the tram I cleverly hadn’t swiped my ticket, just in case!! Best move ever because I got on the tram to take me back to the Opera House…familiar territory. BUT, by then the heavens really, really had opened. This time for real with thunder, lightning and bathtubs of water. I got off the tram into this. Massive puddles to wade through to get to the Opera House where everyone was sheltering. I waited and waited there for the rain to ease but it was stubborn. So eventually I had to brave it. I was already soaked and you can’t get much more soaked than soaked…or can you??? It’s a good thing that being wet doesn’t really bother me, I do know I’ll dry and up here it does seem to let the sun through eventually.

I found shelter by stopping and (should I admit this?) ordering myself an Espresso Martini. Well, there, now I’ve said it. By this time it was 5pm…another big day. So I decided to eat early and then just go home. I found this place that I noticed because of all the people lined up. It was a grab your tray and line up to be served. This meant fill your glass of wine from amtap like the beer…wine as bad as it gets while still being drinkable (to my shame), I often wish I was a beer drinker. I had chicken stroganoff. This place was so popular because it was so cheap. But it suited my needs tonight. I’d had two nights of nice food so I could slum it tonight. I was sliding my tray along when I did a proper ‘Budhsie’. Like it really rivaled the worst clangers. I swiped the glass of wine which was int front of all the food being served and it went EVERYWHERE. Onto the food, all over the bench and all over my tray. I was totally mortified. My face was the same colour as the wine. Anyway, no-one turned a hair. I got millions of flimsy serviettes and mopped up my tray, left the bench for them and calmly refilled my wine glass.

Then back here to the Super apartment that has lost a bit of it’s super status by not having any hot water. Never mind, I’ve alerted them to the problem and if the worst comes to the worst I only have tonight and tomorrow night here and I can stay dirty until Vilnius. I’m all out of stories for today. I seem to have been going forever. When I’m wet and tired I miss everyone even more xxxxx

Phew….I’m not sure how I finally got back to my lovely apartment and am sitting upright writing to you all. What an exhausting day its been. Ridiculously so. I have to work out a better way.

So, I set off this morning to a delicious bakery I’d espied yesterday. And it was delicious in terms of their pastries and cakes. But their coffee was shit, made by one of those press button machines. To add insult to injury a huge Chinese tour group walked in…I counted 35 and then gave up. They created chaos, the little café. Its 2 staff just could not cope.

Then I set off to walk up to the new town centre to pursue the Art Nouveau trail. On the map it all looked fairly straight forward albeit a bit of a hike, but I thought manageable. That is until I turned the wrong way at a crucial point, got lost and had to retrace my stupid steps. I finally found the gorgeous park I was supposed to have walked through when the heavens opened and it bucketed down, and I mean bucketed. I took shelter under a tree for as long as I could but there was no getting away from it. I was drenched to the bone…again. I’m getting used to this caper. It is true to say that when the bucketing stops, the sun comes out and warms you up so you dry quickly. But it’s miserable at the time.

Eventually I found my way to the streets famous for their beautiful Art Nouveau buildings and resumed the walking trail. Up and down the streets I went looking at the gorgeous, brilliant and creative architecture that really does take your breath away. They are highlighted frequently by drab, ugly soviet apartment blocks on the other side of the street.

But by this time I was really feeling exhausted. I found a very sweet, eclectic, atmospheric little café but it didn’t serve much so I had some small, rather heavy little pancakes and a glass of wine, just to sit for a bit. Then walk, walk, walk some more to see what I wanted to see.

I then thought I’d get a taxi back….wrong!! The only taxi’s I saw on the road at all were the Uber equivalent here, Bolt. But you have to order them online and to get the App you have to have a European phone number, which I had decided not to do this time. So, what to do? I knew I couldn’t walk all the way back. So, I purchased a tram ticket and marched off to find the tram stop. Another hike. But I got there. All I can say about the tram is that it is harder than a Melbourne tram to step onto. Massive great steps. Anyway I did it and it dropped me outside the old town. Walking back through the familiar streets it felt like being home and a huge relief. I stopped at one of the restaurants that I couldn’t get into last night and they said they could take me from 5 -7. So I came back to the apartment for an hour to regroup and went out to eat. I had Zucchini soup and steamed mussels. Could have had the same meal anywhere in the world. (Restaurant was Domini Canes).

Not only am I tired but I’ve got these little bites all over me, had them for a couple of days now. I don’t think they’re bed bugs because I got them before I came here but they are itchy and very annoying. The really good thing is that my hip seems to be holding up well…touch wood!!

I hope these missives aren’t getting too boring, they feel like they are to me. But you just have to stop reading them. I’m now going to shower and hop into bed. xxx

Riga has not failed to delight. It is a gorgeous city filled with opulent Art Nouveau buildings that are interesting and quirky. It is different, really different which is a delight in itself. The day, like yesterday, started off warm and sunny and then the rain sets in to annoy in the afternoon. This in turn leads to more money spent because, well, you have to shelter somewhere specially when you’re in your T Shirt, although I did take the precaution on not wearing a frock today…I’m on to the fucking weather gods.

First, find a coffee station before the work of the day starts. I set out to find a place recommended by Kat but annoyingly nothing opens until 10 in the morning so I had to hang around waiting for it to open. Then even more annoyingly its called Crumble Cake and that’s what it serves, so of course how can you not eat cake…damn it. But truly delicious.

St Peters is right nearby so I popped in there…another austere Lutheran church. It had a viewing platform but I opted to find other options for more rooftop views. Past lovely courtyards that you have to keep popping into of course (e.g. Convent Yard), as I made my way up to the Opera House. Then I followed the LPG walking trail for Art Nouveau (at least half of it, tomorrow I have to go up into the New Centre for the other half), winding through gorgeous streets and taking in the amazing buildings. I called into the Cathedral but not inspired. Passed the Fine Art Museum but I’d read it had a fabulous exhibition of Chinese and Japanese Art and some of the modern masters but that’s not a priority when there is so much to do to get a grip on Riga.

By now it was lunch time so lunch I had…raw Mackeral in 11 spices on half a boiled potato (black!) and cottage cheese….here I am desperately trying to fine the real Latvian food. It was delicious. I’m now on a mission to find Beaver on Ham’s recommendation. As I sat there 10 German tourists kept peddling past me. 5 on each side of a peddle machine drinking beer lustily and getting noisier and noisier. Given the history of this place you’d think they’d try for a lower profile. I’ll send a photo.

The rain came in while I had lunch so I sat until it eased then headed out again. But it kept falling and really I just had to accept it as I got wetter and wetter. More amazing, quirky, fascinating buildings. I was being shadowed by an elderly French couple who kept smiling at me as we admired the same things. One gorgeous building was gorgeous inside but of course locked. Part of it was the Swiss embassy, so the French woman starting ringing the buzzers to the Embassy and got them to open the door, they beckoned me in so I had a unique viewing of more beautiful Art Décor. And 20 seconds of company!!

It started to really rain in earnest so I stopped for a coffee and some respite. Then I looked at the Cats House, I’ll send a photo for the kids, its gorgeous and quite iconic. It has become a symbol of Riga. I’d done my 10,000 steps so I came home for a breather and now I’ll go out again foraging for some dinner…

I just had a most delicious dinner in a lovely restaurant. I’d noticed it this morning, they have roosters filling the window so it caught me eye. Its called Peter Gaillus so obviously a play on his name. I got there at 6 but they were fully booked out, but said I could have a table until 7.30 which I grabbed. No beaver on the menu Ham but I had a lovely bit of fish on cauliflower puree. It was yummy. But I will have to remember to get out earlier for my evening meal. The place is buzzing by 6. They seem to eat early here, much earlier than the Italians.

There are tourists all over the place…mainly Europeans and Scandinavians. By day they hunt in packs and by night they maraud in large groups. I’d walked past this place earlier in the day that was offering 50 shots for 25 EU, I looked at it and thought who the fuck??…sure enough, there they were, groups of men with their 50 shots, so drunk they could hardly get them to their mouths. I was in awe. I wanted to take a photo but thought better of it!! That’s your lot for today my dear family. Missing you as always xxxx