Riga has not failed to delight. It is a gorgeous city filled with opulent Art Nouveau buildings that are interesting and quirky. It is different, really different which is a delight in itself. The day, like yesterday, started off warm and sunny and then the rain sets in to annoy in the afternoon. This in turn leads to more money spent because, well, you have to shelter somewhere specially when you’re in your T Shirt, although I did take the precaution on not wearing a frock today…I’m on to the fucking weather gods.
First, find a coffee station before the work of the day starts. I set out to find a place recommended by Kat but annoyingly nothing opens until 10 in the morning so I had to hang around waiting for it to open. Then even more annoyingly its called Crumble Cake and that’s what it serves, so of course how can you not eat cake…damn it. But truly delicious.
St Peters is right nearby so I popped in there…another austere Lutheran church. It had a viewing platform but I opted to find other options for more rooftop views. Past lovely courtyards that you have to keep popping into of course (e.g. Convent Yard), as I made my way up to the Opera House. Then I followed the LPG walking trail for Art Nouveau (at least half of it, tomorrow I have to go up into the New Centre for the other half), winding through gorgeous streets and taking in the amazing buildings. I called into the Cathedral but not inspired. Passed the Fine Art Museum but I’d read it had a fabulous exhibition of Chinese and Japanese Art and some of the modern masters but that’s not a priority when there is so much to do to get a grip on Riga.
By now it was lunch time so lunch I had…raw Mackeral in 11 spices on half a boiled potato (black!) and cottage cheese….here I am desperately trying to fine the real Latvian food. It was delicious. I’m now on a mission to find Beaver on Ham’s recommendation. As I sat there 10 German tourists kept peddling past me. 5 on each side of a peddle machine drinking beer lustily and getting noisier and noisier. Given the history of this place you’d think they’d try for a lower profile. I’ll send a photo.
The rain came in while I had lunch so I sat until it eased then headed out again. But it kept falling and really I just had to accept it as I got wetter and wetter. More amazing, quirky, fascinating buildings. I was being shadowed by an elderly French couple who kept smiling at me as we admired the same things. One gorgeous building was gorgeous inside but of course locked. Part of it was the Swiss embassy, so the French woman starting ringing the buzzers to the Embassy and got them to open the door, they beckoned me in so I had a unique viewing of more beautiful Art Décor. And 20 seconds of company!!
It started to really rain in earnest so I stopped for a coffee and some respite. Then I looked at the Cats House, I’ll send a photo for the kids, its gorgeous and quite iconic. It has become a symbol of Riga. I’d done my 10,000 steps so I came home for a breather and now I’ll go out again foraging for some dinner…
I just had a most delicious dinner in a lovely restaurant. I’d noticed it this morning, they have roosters filling the window so it caught me eye. Its called Peter Gaillus so obviously a play on his name. I got there at 6 but they were fully booked out, but said I could have a table until 7.30 which I grabbed. No beaver on the menu Ham but I had a lovely bit of fish on cauliflower puree. It was yummy. But I will have to remember to get out earlier for my evening meal. The place is buzzing by 6. They seem to eat early here, much earlier than the Italians.
There are tourists all over the place…mainly Europeans and Scandinavians. By day they hunt in packs and by night they maraud in large groups. I’d walked past this place earlier in the day that was offering 50 shots for 25 EU, I looked at it and thought who the fuck??…sure enough, there they were, groups of men with their 50 shots, so drunk they could hardly get them to their mouths. I was in awe. I wanted to take a photo but thought better of it!! That’s your lot for today my dear family. Missing you as always xxxx