28th July 2023
Another busy day but a bit less walking today than yesterday. As usual I start the day with a coffee. This time only 3.5 fucking Euros. I went to a nice place though. The oldest pastry shop in Tallinn which was very old worldish, if a little shabby! On the strength of it I had a pastry as well a coffee and just sat there for a while to soak up the ambience. Then I went to the Estonian History Museum in the Great Guild Hall. It was somewhat interesting but not overwhelmingly so. What is interesting is all the Guilds (and there are many) whose merchants wielded the power and the wealth in Tallinn over the years. That was OK and I’m learning along the way, all the time.
Then one is compelled to pop into a church on the way. This one was Holy Spirit Lutheran Church, the oldest in Tallin. And it has a gorgeous C13th clock on the outside. On I went down the hill, stopping at another unremarkable Church St Nicholas’ Orthodox Church. By this time I was tired but on I walked to Viru Gate, one of the main gates into the old city. I hadn’t really been noticing the tourists until then but suddenly I found myself in the thick of a seething tourist hub. So I took myself to lunch! For the first time I went to an LPG recommendation- Manna La Roosa. It was in a gorgeous ‘villa’ and just jam packed full of all sorts of artwork and memorabilia. I had an Hugo…one of my favs from my Lucca days and a Risotto. I don’t think I’ve really found the answer to what is Estonian food. A bit like Australia they seem to take their food from anywhere. I sat there for a while as I had WiFi which makes me happy. Texting Rose and emailing Ham just like being at home.
While I was sitting in the restaurant it started to rain and I felt rather smug to be missing it, but as soon as I left it started again. Nothing too dramatic a shower for a while and then sunshine. I really can’t complain about the weather. It’s been perfect for touristing.
I thought I really had to do at least one more sightsee for the day so I set off in another direction to the Niguliste Museum. This is the old St Nicholas Cathedral that was bombed by the Russians in 1944 and destroyed. It’s been rebuilt and is now a Museum. But the thing about this is explained by going back to my taxi driver on the way in. He impressed upon me that there are superb views over Tallinn if you climb 300 steps at St Olaf’s Church BUT at the rebuilt St Nicholas there is a lift to the top which is not widely known. Now, he said to me, ‘300 steps or lift, you decide’ With both hands in the air. Well, I thank that man cos the views were amazing.
Now it was time to go back to my digs. I stopped on the way for a light dinner and to do a bit of shop browsing, but then back after being out and about since 9.30 this morning and it nearly 7pm. Its tiring work specially for a cripple.
I thought today that Tallinn really isn’t about museums and churches. It’s kind of the whole package, it’s the town itself and the vibe, the optimism, the pride and independence of a little state against invasions from North, South, East and West. Keeping in mind how superficial any tourist experience is, by definition. But it is a very likeable city with an easy ambience.
Missing everyone, always. Life on the road is an adventure for sure with increasing challenges over the years but homesickness is an intrinsic part of it all xxxxx