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Moving on to Riga

31st July 2023

Moving day is always stressful and today was no exception. Starting with a sleepless night as I tossed and turned about being up on time and whether my taxi will be there as ordered. Well of course it was, in fact it was early and I didn’t even have to start worrying. I was early too (of course).

The bus left on time and the seat next to me was empty so I settled down to stretch my legs etc. That was until the first overtaking manoeuvre when I sat bolt upright and fastened my seatbelt. Not that he wasn’t a good driver, just that he was motivated to be on time and watching trucks move over when the bus was overtaking was, at times, nerve-wracking. But we got there very efficiently and on time.

Just as we got into Riga it started pouring i.e. bucketing! I was in a thin dress and sandles and just had to suck it up really. Its not cold, just wet and it looks as if its going to be for the next 3 days which will put a dampener on Riga.

Next trick was the taxi. Out I went to get in the taxi. I wasn’t sure how far out we were so when he said 15 Eu I suggested he should use his meter, which he didn’t. When we got to the address in all of 5 minutes I was really pissed off with him so I used an old LPG trick and told him it was too much and I wanted a receipt please. He immediately took 10 Eu, knowing full well he had overcharged…he was still nice even, no skin off his nose, he was still a winner at that price.

Then I just had to take shelter before I could even get into the hotel. It was a bit confusing and I wasn’t sure I was in the right place. It’s a boutique Hotel/ apartments. So I asked a woman who looked as if she belonged. She grabbed my case and to my horror started to climb, not one long flight of stairs but another. I’m so careful when I book to guard against this so I said to her, no,no I can’t be on the second floor. She rang the manager, I said I hadn’t booked this…blah, blah,blah. Long story short they miraculously found another apartment on the first floor…only one long flight of stairs. I looked it up and it said apartment all on one level, no stairs. I think they meant that the apartment itself is all on one level but fat lot of good that is if you have to climb 60 stairs to get there.

Enough with the whinging, the apartment is fabulous. Gorgeous really with loads of space, beautifully refurbished and could not be more central. When I finally settled down and went out walking the sun was shining brightly and it was hot(ish). And there was Riga in all its splendour. Just when I thought it would never live up to Tallinn it was looking as if it will. I haven’t done much exploring but it looks like another very lovely town. First to the tourist Office, as always. They aren’t as easy for the tourist as Tallinn where there was a Tallinn Card that got you into everything and allowed you to use all forms of transport. Here it looks difficult to go anywhere without foot power. There are roadworks everywhere (not in the old town) and trams etc are apparently disrupted. Anyway I’ll work it out.

Next I went to the Blackheads House and took that it…there is one in Tallinn as well. It’s a merchants guild named for a black saint/soldier St Maurice. It’s a fabulous building but the original was bombed by the Germans in 1941. Then the Russians, when they took over, dynamited the ruins. Fortunately they had the blueprints and set to work rebuilding it once the Russians had finally pissed off. It was interesting.

By then I was hungry, I hadn’t eaten so I found a little bar and had a Spritz and some ‘corn spare ribs’ i.e. corn marinated and cooked like spare ribs…more your Mexican vibe really. Then I came back to my swanky apartment to get a bit organised and have an early night to try and catch up a bit. A big day in store tomorrow I suspect and it will be back to jeans and wading through water I think. xxxxxx

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Last day in Tallin Sunday 30th July 2023

Last day in Tallinn and a rather slow pace on a sunny, warm day, soaking up the Baltic summer. First I set off just down the road to the KGB Prison Cells. Used by both the Russians and the Nazis. This poor little fiercely independent country was occupied from 1941 to 1991. By the Russians until 1944 then by the Nazis then by the Russians again. Their battles against each other raged across this country.

Surprisingly there is little mention of the Estonian Jewish peoples in all the reading I’ve done. From what I can gather the communists had a hand in their destruction in the early years of the war and then when the Nazis moved in of course those left (a little over 900 ) were exterminated and Estonia was declared ‘Jew Free’. I’m not sure if I’ve got this totally accurate but it is true that there is little of Jewish history noted around here. I think the Estonians were complicit in the extermination by the Nazis, not because they hated the Jews (so I’ve read), but because they saw the Jewish population aligned to the communists and they hate the communists above all else. I reiterate that I’m no historian and these are merely my musings.

So, the KGB cells…exactly what you’d expect. Horrific torture, people kept for days in cupboards I wouldn’t even fit in. Deprived of food and sleep and subjected to disgusting torture. There are more KGB/ Russian Museums but I’ve had enough. I’ve seen too much. It brought back memories of the Museum of Horrors in Budapest that upset me for ages. After this I went to the big Cathedral, St Olaf’s. Nothing to see here really, very austere, no iconaclasty, no nothing really. Scandinavia is the biggest influence.

Then down to Fat Margaret…part of the wall with an impressive medieval gate and canon tower. It had a café on the roof so I stopped there for my morning coffee which was pleasant. I walked back up the street and did a teensy bit of souvenir shopping so as not to leave here empty handed entirely. Then I went to a lovely little courtyard called the Masters Courtyard. Jam packed with tourists at the chocolaterie there but I espied a great little ceramic shop, all hand made and quite unique so I made a beeline for it and bought a small piece I liked.

Lunch…I found a quieter place and decided to be a little more adventurous in terms of my quest for Estonian food. This time I had Steak Tartare…on bread. Different.

I then went back to my starting point, the Tourist office and asked them to book me a taxi for the morning. As Taxis can’t come into the old city where I am I had to work out a meeting point and I thought it was safer if they did it for me. They obliged, so fingers crossed that it all works out to get me to the bus in the morning.

I’ve just returned from dinner and have to get packing. I found a lovely little Italian restaurant last night and decided to go back there tonight having given Estonian food my best shot. I could have had wild boar or grilled reindeer tonight in another restaurant, but couldn’t face it. Hopeless I know. Now I need to get packing and hope all goes well tomorrow getting to Riga. Love to you all.

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Addendum to 29th July

I forgot to tell the kids that I went to an old, old pharmacy today. They had all the medicines they used to use hundreds of years ago. They included Powdered Unicorn Horn, Dried Toads, Bats Blood, worms in oil and viper fat. I’ll send photos to WhatsApp.

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Tallinn 29th July 2023

Saturday 29th July 2023 Tallinn

Today was to be a bit of a quieter day but it sure wasn’t. After my morning coffee to get me going I set off for the Upper Town called Toompea. I was so proud of my little legs as I ploughed up and up. I have to say using my stick is the best thing. It gives me security as I march onward and upward. I’m funny though, no-one takes as many photos as me because actually I’m looking for an excuse to stop for a moment. It’s fabulous really, you round a corner and there in front of you is the Alexander Nevsky Orthodox Cathedral. I’ve always wanted to go to St Petersburg but I think this will have to do for Onion Domes and a full on taste of Russia. Inside, of course, not too exciting although I think I’ve seen enough Cathedrals to be a bit blasé.

This area of Toompea is full of atmosphere with little laneways, heavenly houses and views across Tallinn and the Gulf of Finland. Around I slowly puttered feeling good that I was up there, until a woman passed me and said ‘oh look at you getting up here with a cane, good for you’. What she got in return was a tight grin that showed my teeth and a guttural sound that came out of me that could best be described as a snarl. Poor woman, she meant well.

This whole area is tourist Mecca. Lots of groups trooping through – mainly Germans, Italians, Indians and Chinese. Some Russians but as far as I can tell not too many. Its true to say that if you were Russian you wouldn’t feel too welcome. But this was ‘their cathedral’ after all.

More churches to pop in and out of, two fabulous viewing platforms to look down on the city (this time I did get up there under my own steam.). Towers, and ramparts from the city walls and the castle of old. Pretty good really. Then it was down, down, down. I came a different way with lots of stairs.

I deserved lunch then so I sat down and had (oh no not again) fish soup, egg salad on toast and the usually dark and grainy bread. I’ve decided the Estonian cuisine has its base in Scandinavia, that’s the best I can do in terms of finding the true Estonian food. Next, I had to cross the Town Hall off my list so down the stairs I went to see what this attraction had to offer me. Bit of a mistake really. Going up the massive stairs to get to the start of the exhibition was but the first hurdle. Then they lead you down these tiny staircases with steps so high I was totally sure I was going to kill myself or my hip. Anyway, long story short I made it and basically it wasn’t worth it!! I do often find that these lovely buildings are better viewed from outside.

Then I came home as it was the best place for a quick wee. I lay on the bed for a second and woke up an hour later…most unlike me! Out again I went to scavenge for food and found a most heavenly – guess what- Italian restaurant. Had a yummy risotto and wandered home.

Another day in Estonia and then its off to Riga and a whole new process of orientation.
Goodnight everyone XXX

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Estonia 28th July2023

28th July 2023
Another busy day but a bit less walking today than yesterday. As usual I start the day with a coffee. This time only 3.5 fucking Euros. I went to a nice place though. The oldest pastry shop in Tallinn which was very old worldish, if a little shabby! On the strength of it I had a pastry as well a coffee and just sat there for a while to soak up the ambience. Then I went to the Estonian History Museum in the Great Guild Hall. It was somewhat interesting but not overwhelmingly so. What is interesting is all the Guilds (and there are many) whose merchants wielded the power and the wealth in Tallinn over the years. That was OK and I’m learning along the way, all the time.
Then one is compelled to pop into a church on the way. This one was Holy Spirit Lutheran Church, the oldest in Tallin. And it has a gorgeous C13th clock on the outside. On I went down the hill, stopping at another unremarkable Church St Nicholas’ Orthodox Church. By this time I was tired but on I walked to Viru Gate, one of the main gates into the old city. I hadn’t really been noticing the tourists until then but suddenly I found myself in the thick of a seething tourist hub. So I took myself to lunch! For the first time I went to an LPG recommendation- Manna La Roosa. It was in a gorgeous ‘villa’ and just jam packed full of all sorts of artwork and memorabilia. I had an Hugo…one of my favs from my Lucca days and a Risotto. I don’t think I’ve really found the answer to what is Estonian food. A bit like Australia they seem to take their food from anywhere. I sat there for a while as I had WiFi which makes me happy. Texting Rose and emailing Ham just like being at home.

While I was sitting in the restaurant it started to rain and I felt rather smug to be missing it, but as soon as I left it started again. Nothing too dramatic a shower for a while and then sunshine. I really can’t complain about the weather. It’s been perfect for touristing.

I thought I really had to do at least one more sightsee for the day so I set off in another direction to the Niguliste Museum. This is the old St Nicholas Cathedral that was bombed by the Russians in 1944 and destroyed. It’s been rebuilt and is now a Museum. But the thing about this is explained by going back to my taxi driver on the way in. He impressed upon me that there are superb views over Tallinn if you climb 300 steps at St Olaf’s Church BUT at the rebuilt St Nicholas there is a lift to the top which is not widely known. Now, he said to me, ‘300 steps or lift, you decide’ With both hands in the air. Well, I thank that man cos the views were amazing.

Now it was time to go back to my digs. I stopped on the way for a light dinner and to do a bit of shop browsing, but then back after being out and about since 9.30 this morning and it nearly 7pm. Its tiring work specially for a cripple.

I thought today that Tallinn really isn’t about museums and churches. It’s kind of the whole package, it’s the town itself and the vibe, the optimism, the pride and independence of a little state against invasions from North, South, East and West. Keeping in mind how superficial any tourist experience is, by definition. But it is a very likeable city with an easy ambience.

Missing everyone, always. Life on the road is an adventure for sure with increasing challenges over the years but homesickness is an intrinsic part of it all xxxxx

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July 27th 2023

Another quick update for those who are happy to keep reading. Big big day today. I’m learning so much about this remarkable, fiercely independent country that seems to be flourishing in every way. A quick history lesson helps make sense of this independence and anti Russian feeling. They were taken over by Peter The Great back there then but had their War of Independence in 1918-1920 to get rid of the Russians. During the second WW they declared their independence but were occupied in 1941 by the Germans. Now here’s the deal, what do you do when you already hate the Ruskies and are caught between them and the Germans? A lot of their men actually joined the German army after occupation, largely, I gather, to try and keep the Russians at bay. Well, as we know that didn’t work well and they were once again part of the USSR from 1945 until 1991. Now again Russia looms large and there are protesters on the street yelling in Estonian but every now and again they burst into English for the benefit of the tourists and yell ‘Putin Evil’.

So…have I sent you off to sleep yet? My day today was a bit of a marathon for me. First a coffee, the most I’ve ever paid for a cappuccino in my entire life. 4 Eu (around $8) WTF!!! 

Then I went to the tourist office to try and sort myself out. I bought a Tallinn Card which gives me free public transport and free access to most sites. So the big ticket item is the Estonian Outdoor Museum. In my wisdom I decided to do that one first. Its outside the city so I had to find the bus which was a long way away and then work out where to get off the damn bus.  A bit nerve wracking but I got there. It is HUGE. They have transported original farm houses from the countryside onto this beautiful forested site and rebuilt them. From the days of the serfs through to the communes under the communists. It was fascinating but a lot, lot of walking and my feet were screaming when I finally found the bus to come back on then walked back into the old town.

Tomorrow will be a quiet day. But all good. I rewarded myself with a spritz when I got back…and I must say it was a very generous one, and well deserved. I also had a bowl of soup and then came home and collapsed in a heap. Once I was safely undercover it started to piss down so I was lucky to avoid that finale. The weather has been superb for travelling. Around 20ish. No need for emergency purchases of winter clothing. Until tomorrow.

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Wednesday 26th July 2023

To finish off last night. We did go out for dinner to a lovely restaurant outside the city walls. One of many advantages of having an ‘insider’ on your team is eating at the best restaurants where tourists just don’t go. We both had roast pork which was utterly delicious. 

This morning there was little time to do anything other than finish off packing and going for a morning coffee, walking to the taxi rank, saying goodbye and being transported out to the airport. Ciampino this time, a much smaller, dinkier airport. RyanAir to Tallinn. I was trying to objectively assess RyanAir and it’s true that it is much leaner and meaner. You take on one bag only and it has to go under the seat in front so there is absolutely nowhere for your feet to go, so you are scrunched up all the way. The seatbelts are also mean and lean which doesn’t suit me. But you survive these things. You are lined up on the tarmac in the blazing heat waiting for the plane to accept you. Up the stairs you go. But I must say they are efficient, left on time and arrived ahead of schedule. And, of course, they are cheap. Would I use them again? Yep, the cheap flights will get me every time!

Arrived Tallinn in one piece. Taxi driver very informative along the way. Everyone is anti Russia and supporting Ukraine…I asked if they were worried about Russia invading the Baltics (a modicum of self interest sneeked out!). Well he said, they have a very good position on the sea, but they have to live their lives and they are ready to fight!! I gave him a good tip!

To the Airbnb…a bit of a disappointment there. Much more rustic than quaint. A very pokey little place but its only for 5 nights and it has everything I need except somewhere comfortable for me to sit. Very basic for sure.

I didn’t stay there for long because I wanted to get a grip on the city. It is a most delicious city. I was expecting cold from what I had heard but it was lovely, balmy weather. I’m right in the middle of the old town and I wandered off to the main square. There are apparently less tourist than pre Covid so that’s a winner for me.

I just completely lost the last half hour of writing so I’ve lost my mojo!!

Anyway to finish off…the city is alive with people walking around in the warm, balmy evening. It is a truly beautiful city full of outdoor tables for all the bars and restaurants. There are enough art and craft shops to keep me happy for a lifetime and I sussed out the supermarket to get my wine. Albeit more expensive and more limited than either home or Italy. Then I found a restaurant and settled down to a glass of red and a nice ravioli. The restaurant was fully booked but they had 5 places at the bar where I sat with 2 Germans and 2 Russians and me and reflected on the weirdness of the world. Just outside the restaurant was a street full of protest posters against the Russian intervention in Ukraine. It was far too expensive for a lady traveller spending her kid’s inheritance…. But tonight it was a case of what the fuck…a lame solo traveller needs her rewards.

Its 10pm and still daylight. I’m not sure if it will ever actually get dark. More tomorrow. I miss everyone.

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On the road Again (after 4 years…thank you Covid and my hip!!)

Emirates flight to Rome stopping in Singapore and Dubai. Arduous as usual but overall without incident and on time all the way. Using a stick helped a lot, not only for easier mobility but also because it meant extra attention along the way e.g. being singled out to go to the top of the queue, being ushered on to an electric vehicle in Dubai to be taken to security (that was a real winner). It didn’t happen all the time but when it did it was gratefully received. The only downside was that you have to put up with being patronised and treated as if you also couldn’t think. Oh well!! There were a few funny things on the flight. A lady heading to Dubai, in full Saudi dress, was doing regular exercises to prevent DVT…all good…except that she was doing them hanging off the lever of the escape hatch. I watched this for a while feeling mildly alarmed and wanting to yell STOPPPPP, but to my credit didn’t. Finally, one of the cabin crew saw her and reacted to my satisfaction by completely freaking out

Finally, I was in Rome. Chris came out to pick me up which was a very welcoming feeling. And Rome itself makes me feel at home. Such a relief to get home, get a glass of wine, have some fresh Italian produce, chat into the night, have a shower and fall into bed. No jet lag for me!

July 23rd 2023

So hot!! But my first coffee was a delight. Then we wandered off to Campo di Fiori to see what was on offer by way of my dresses. To no avail. Up to Piazza Navona and back through the streets of Rome. Not even many tourists to be seen…the heat is keeping everyone away.

We went to a restaurant just around the corner from Chris’ for lunch. Totally delicious food of course. The Italians really know how to combine their pasta with the most delicious fresh produce…mozzarella, tomato, fish, prawns. So delicious and always the wine in a carafe. The restaurant is da Cesare al Pelligrini. 

After lunch we set off for the Umbrian countryside to the country house of Chris’ friends Chantelle and Pino. They weren’t using it so kindly said we could go and stay there. Into the pool we plunged as soon as we got here…phew!!

So tomorrow is relax day here using the pool and just chilling out. Now it’s time for bed.

July 24th 2023.

A day in the country just hanging out and plopping in and out of the pool. Eating fresh produce, chatting and drinking wine. This has to be heaven. We drove into the nearest village in the evening through the Umbrian countryside. Past fields and fields of Sunflowers with hilltop villages perched above us. Chris cooked another delicious pasta for dinner and we sat outside as night descended with the obligatory glass of wine in hand, cooled by the evening breeze and chatting into the night. This is the life for me!!!

July 25th 2023

Really it was up and off this morning. Chris had a swim but it seemed like too much effort to have wet bathers again to me. Cleaned the beautiful house (although, truth be told, Chris did most of that), into the car and headed back to Rome. It was like entering a furnace, sweaty and overwhelming. Chris had to get ready to head off to work so we had a quick lunch, Chris showered. I got ready to go with her as far as Cola di Rienzo. This is a large shopping street where I have bought my street dresses in the past. I must say I questioned what on earth i was doing out there in the early afternoon sun plodding along and sweating profusely. However I was redeemed when I found some dresses that fitted. Ended up with 5 new dresses + 2 we’d bought at a stall on the way back from the country. All in all a good days work in terms of replenishing my dress supply.

I decided to get a taxi home but had to walk and walk before I found an empty one. A lovely taxi driver who pointed out the first nations flag flying over the embassy and discussed the treatment of indigenous Australians. It rears its ugly head everywhere!!

Now I’m back home with the fan on about to take a cold shower and reorganise my bags. When Chris finishes work we are going out to dinner.