Another really interesting day in Warsaw, exploring the Old (but really new) Town. And I have to take back what I said about the Russians taking over the flat earth that was Warsaw.
In fact the Old Town is truly amazing and a tribute to the Poles who meticulously rebuilt it after the razing of 1944. It blows my mind as I sit in the Old Town Square in what, for all intents and purposes, is a beautiful and ancient old Square, then to think again…totally rebuilt stone by stone in its own image using old photos and records to ensure it was accurate.
I honestly thought I’d seen it all in Dresden in terms of what humans can achieve but I think Warsaw has upped the ante. And I almost didn’t come here, but I’m so glad I did. Not because its the worlds most beautiful city (it isn’t) but because it is a testament to the capacity for regrowth and regeneration after devastation. New respect for the Poles in my mind anyway.
But let me go back to the start of today. First thing is I bought sunglasses duty free in Melbourne. An expensive pair and a cheaper pair for the car etc. Well I discovered this morning that the cheaper pair lasted all of 24 hours and now I’ve lost them!! So I retraced my steps back to where I had my morning coffee yesterday to see if they were there…no luck so I have to give up and consider them gone…so infuriating but I guess I can only hope that thats the worst to happen to me.
Then I walked down to the Old Town. I enjoyed today, it was more relaxed, just walking, people watching and exploring. This town is not full of tourists so its nice not to be battling crowds. I know that will change in Krakow but I’m enjoying it while I can. There are, of course, people whizzing past me on those electric scooter things, zipping in and out of pedestrians and I consider it very lucky to be avoiding them thus far. And there is also the heat. Its only 32C but when you’re plunged into it, it’s draining and sweaty.
I considered, and then considered again, the prospect of doing a tour of the Royal Palace but I decided not to in the end, feeling totally museumed – out yesterday. I had soup for lunch and sat around a bit. I had visions of sitting by the river but Warsaw doesn’t seem to use their river as well as they might, it’s hard to get close to and sadly no cafes line the river. Nothing like those other cities that utilise their rivers as lively, people places (Rome, Paris, London, Melbourne).
About 5pm every day I’ve been here, the thunder and rain roll in. I was a bit unsure what to do with myself this afternoon because there is a fabulous restaurant scene around the old town and I hadn’t had a ‘real’ Polish meal to date. I’d only had soup and fluids so I decided I’d eat early then come back to the hotel. So at 5pm I went to a rather more fancy restaurant recommended by LPG which was on my way back. For the record, Dawne Smaki on Nowy Swiat.
I decided in my (not so) wisdom to get a few entrees to try a variety of Polish food. So I ordered Herring, followed by 4 different types of Pierogi (one each that is) and then Bigos. So I finished the first two courses and could barely get a mouthful of the Bigos down. I just had to give up!!! Polish food I must say overwhelms me somewhat although I do love the soups!! Anyway, I enjoyed the meal and feel as if I’ve at least had one real Polish meal, including a complementary cherry vodka!!. I was back here by 7pm!! Talk about an early meal. I’ll have to do some quick readjustment when I hit Italy.
Train at 9am in the morning to Krakow, So I’ll get myself organised now and hop into bed.