Month: July 2019

I always seem to be exhausted after a day of travel and today is no exception. Really not that arduous but draining nonetheless. Of course I was at the station ages before the train was due to leave…its my way. Its all a bit puzzling when everything is in Polish including your ticket so you have to puzzle your way through what carriage, what seat etc. I mean, you do it, but everything takes that bit of effort.

And then there is the struggle with your suitcase. You manage the get on and off the train bit, not easily any more, but you manage. Then you get to your crowded little ‘box’ with 6 people and there is absolutely no way you could get your case up into the case rack, even if there was space for it, which there isn’t, of course. The next observation follows on from the guy on the plane. There are, fortunately for me, a lot of very tall, lanky Poles. So, this young man helps re-organise all the cases to fit mine in. That is until the American family opposite start bleating about a case might fall on them (oh that it would) and his job at his firm is in OH&S. I told him that was obvious and then buttoned my lip securely!! Anyway it was all sorted.

Arrived in Krakow OK. Now, the ‘Art of Serenity’ Apartment I’m staying in is so fucking clandestine. There is no reception or anything, they text you with the details of how to get in, but not until your room is ready. So off I went to get myself a bowl of soup while I waited. I’d rung them to say I’d be arriving at 1, so they did have it ready a bit early…at 2pm. And it is a really nice apartment. A bit of a strange set up, half way between an Airbnb and a hotel. But I have everything I need.

I set off to get my bearings. The apartment is just outside the Old Town wall, so very convenient, and off I trotted to the Old Town Square. Another gorgeous square which most of you know but for those that don’t, this time really old. No bombing raids here thank God. I went to the Tourist Office and booked a trip to Auschwitz, and I went to St Mary’s Basilica which sits in the middle of the Square. Now that was a lovely surprise. So utterly beautiful with those heaven blue starry vaulted ceilings, superb stained glass, painted walls and an alter piece to die for from what I could see through the restoration work going on.

I’ve been in Poland for 4 days now and not a single Lody have I indulged in (thinking of Kirst here). That is until today, I was sitting in the Square watching the summery, youthful, fun-filled world go by and most people had an ice-cream in hand. It is so lovely and synonymous with summer that off I went and got myself the most delicious yoghurt icecream to join the club.I wandered a bit more but I was tired so I got a little bit to eat, did some shopping and called it a day.

Bought wine (and this time a corkscrew with it), some pringles and back to the ranch to nestle in. It feels like a big day even if it really wasnt so big walking- wise. I got excited when I saw I had Netflix but its all in Polish so no luck there. Guess I’ll do some washing and read my book.

Another really interesting day in Warsaw, exploring the Old (but really new) Town. And I have to take back what I said about the Russians taking over the flat earth that was Warsaw.

In fact the Old Town is truly amazing and a tribute to the Poles who meticulously rebuilt it after the razing of 1944. It blows my mind as I sit in the Old Town Square in what, for all intents and purposes, is a beautiful and ancient old Square, then to think again…totally rebuilt stone by stone in its own image using old photos and records to ensure it was accurate.

I honestly thought I’d seen it all in Dresden in terms of what humans can achieve but I think Warsaw has upped the ante. And I almost didn’t come here, but I’m so glad I did. Not because its the worlds most beautiful city (it isn’t) but because it is a testament to the capacity for regrowth and regeneration after devastation. New respect for the Poles in my mind anyway.

But let me go back to the start of today. First thing is I bought sunglasses duty free in Melbourne. An expensive pair and a cheaper pair for the car etc. Well I discovered this morning that the cheaper pair lasted all of 24 hours and now I’ve lost them!! So I retraced my steps back to where I had my morning coffee yesterday to see if they were there…no luck so I have to give up and consider them gone…so infuriating but I guess I can only hope that thats the worst to happen to me.

Then I walked down to the Old Town. I enjoyed today, it was more relaxed, just walking, people watching and exploring. This town is not full of tourists so its nice not to be battling crowds. I know that will change in Krakow but I’m enjoying it while I can. There are, of course, people whizzing past me on those electric scooter things, zipping in and out of pedestrians and I consider it very lucky to be avoiding them thus far. And there is also the heat. Its only 32C but when you’re plunged into it, it’s draining and sweaty.

I considered, and then considered again, the prospect of doing a tour of the Royal Palace but I decided not to in the end, feeling totally museumed – out yesterday. I had soup for lunch and sat around a bit. I had visions of sitting by the river but Warsaw doesn’t seem to use their river as well as they might, it’s hard to get close to and sadly no cafes line the river. Nothing like those other cities that utilise their rivers as lively, people places (Rome, Paris, London, Melbourne).

About 5pm every day I’ve been here, the thunder and rain roll in. I was a bit unsure what to do with myself this afternoon because there is a fabulous restaurant scene around the old town and I hadn’t had a ‘real’ Polish meal to date. I’d only had soup and fluids so I decided I’d eat early then come back to the hotel. So at 5pm I went to a rather more fancy restaurant recommended by LPG which was on my way back. For the record, Dawne Smaki on Nowy Swiat.

I decided in my (not so) wisdom to get a few entrees to try a variety of Polish food. So I ordered Herring, followed by 4 different types of Pierogi (one each that is) and then Bigos. So I finished the first two courses and could barely get a mouthful of the Bigos down. I just had to give up!!! Polish food I must say overwhelms me somewhat although I do love the soups!! Anyway, I enjoyed the meal and feel as if I’ve at least had one real Polish meal, including a complementary cherry vodka!!. I was back here by 7pm!! Talk about an early meal. I’ll have to do some quick readjustment when I hit Italy.

Train at 9am in the morning to Krakow, So I’ll get myself organised now and hop into bed.