I think I’m starting to get a handle on Lecce now which makes me feel better. It was much less crowded today or at least I worked out how to avoid the crowds better…a bit of both I think.
First good thing this morning is that I went outside the old city and found myself a nice unpretentious bar where I could sit and have my coffee without a worry. I then went to the Castle of Carlo V and wondered around the impressive structure. It houses the tourist office so I went back there and confirmed that I would like to go on a trip around Salento should they be able to find a third person (They have rung me and said they have and I go off tomorrow for the day).
Then I went off in search of ceramic shops. The one I was looking for I walked around in circles trying to find, only to discover it is now closed permanently but I did find some lovely quirky little shops with the owners doing their own pottery. I’ll go back and have another look when I get a chance.
I also found the restaurant I was looking for last night…it is hidden away…and I booked a table for tonight. They are totally full but as long as I am out by 9pm they will feed me…that’s not hard for me.
I wandered the streets of Lecce, outside the main piazzas and well away from the Duomo. It was lovely, few people around and beautiful baroque buildings everywhere. Its like Venice…a splendid city overtaken by tourists at this time of year, but like Venice, if you move off the tourist trek it is quiet and totally beautiful. I went to the Basilica Santa Croce whose facade is famous for its very over-the-top ornate baroqueness. Unfortunately that same facade is being restored and is under scaffolding and a screen. Inside was interesting though and I lit a candle for Loris because today is her birthday.
I wandered narrow little streets til I dropped. Then I went back to the place I was last night, the one that wasn’t really a good place for dinner but great food for lunch. I sat there for a while then wandered again.
My strategy to get away from the crowds was to have an afternoon break when the tourists were at their peak. So here I am back in my lovely spacious pad having a break before I hit the streets again and go out for dinner. More later.
Back now for the night. There are definitely less tourists than yesterday. For some reason I think yesterday must have been the peak. Anyway I went out walking again before going to this much sought after restaurant. And yes I did have a very lovely meal. Really delicious actually, with a couple of glasses of wine, then I wandered back home. I think Lecce is a lovely town and probably one that deserves more time than I am able to give it.
Tomorrow its off on a little day tour of the coast, right down to the end of the heal. That should be interesting.