Today we set off again with Sanjana to explore the sites that were not covered by the $30 ticket we bought yesterday to visit the archaeological park area. And really we thought it was a much better day and the sites we went to were lovely. We started in the Royal Pleasure Gardens and they were indeed a pleasure. They had two swimming pools, one for the king and one for the queen. Around one of the pools were some beautiful carvings of elephants which I particularly liked. Just an aside as I sit outside on the verandah writing this a rat just ran across the roof…great. Anyway these gardens sit in the side a large lake so the setting is lovely and monkeys play in the forest which is a treat for me and a massive pain for Rose. The other thing is that at all these sites there are ‘wild’ dogs, but not actually wild, nonetheless you wouldn’t like one of them to take a bite of you. Fortunately they are generally not in the least bit interested in you.
On to the next site which was my favourite was a place where the Indian monks worshipped when they came over from India and needed a secluded spot as they didn’t fit into the prevailing society. It is the Vessagiriya Cave Monastery. The area consists of massive boulders that make a cave. The overhang of which is inscribed with Indian lettering, etched thousands of years ago and there is the faint remains of a beautiful cave painting of a dancing woman. Also bowls ground into the rock where they ground up the spices to give to the gods. It overlooked lush fields and forest area. We walked over the massive boulders and it felt like a lot of areas in Northern Australia with similarities to early evidence of Aboriginal customs. It was very special.
Then we saw a very, very large Buddha in a monastery area with Buddhist monks all over the place in their bright, bright orange robes. This was on the way to the Sri Maha Bodhi, the sacred Bodhi tree grown from a cutting and brought across from India. It’s supposed to be over 2000 years old (authenticated by an uninterrupted succession of guardians)!! This is the most holy of holy places with much praying, chanting and laying of flowers before the tree.
Near there is the Ruvanvelisaya Dagoba which is a very spectacular white dome surrounded by elephant friezes. Now, the thing is that you have to take off your hat and your shoes when you go anywhere near these sacred places. Western (at least our) feet are nothing like as tough as Sri Lankan feet so generally I have to hobble along but today went to another dimension when we literally burnt the soles of our feet as we fled across the concrete. It was a trial by fire!! It had already been a long walk into this Dagoba and then my poor feet had to endure this. Earlier in the day the bandage had fallen off my big toe which has a small skin tear so the poor driver had to go back into town to a pharmacy for us to get some more tape as we hadn’t brought it with us…I’m such a disaster area!!!
By the way, just for my record rather than to entertain anyone, we passed the Lowamahapaya (Brazen Palace) on the way to the Dagoba. The remains consist of 1600 columns that used to be a massive pavilion of 9 storeys to accommodate 1000 monks.
Then lastly for today we went to the Thuparama Dagoba which was a smaller version of the previous one with the barefoot dance continuing on red hot and pebbled stones that play havoc with soft feet. This Dagoba is said to enshrine the right collarbone of Buddha just in case you were wondering where that had got to.
Our tour with Sanjana was then over, it had cost us $25 for each day all up ($12.50 a person per day) and we had seen everything we wanted to see…and more. So we were satisfied when we went back to Lievi’s, our slightly grotty but rather loveable, ‘guesthouse’. But it wasn’t long before we had to set out again for a late lunch. This time we headed to Milanos Tourist Rest, none too flash and deserted by tourists at this time of year so not too exciting.
Then it was back again to sit on our verandah. And as the sun goes down the mosquitoes smell blood and descend determinedly. We are dining here tonight for a first time experience.
We have arranged for Sanjana to drive us down to Kandy tomorrow stopping in Dambulla on the way to see the Cave Temples. It is costing us $100 but it is an easy way to do the trip rather than a crowded bus. The budget travellers around us are a bit bemused but there you go!!
Later: The dinner here was a delightful Sri Lankan chicken curry and rice. Really one of the best meals we’ve had. Its no alcohol for me at the moment. It’s annoying that you can get beer anywhere but anything else is like hen’s teeth!! Goodnight all.