Susan Goonan

I sit and write this as Rose listens to a podcast on how to transplant a fucking head. This is a very surreal environment, our tiny little apartment. Well we’re both (I think) loving Kyoto. There is far too much to do for us to do, particularly as we cope with minor ailments and hangovers. So today we probably did less than we wanted to do but what we did do was hugely enjoyable. We set of on a bus to take us to the Arashiyama Bamboo Forest. We joined, again, a massive tourist flow and walked up through the forest which was indeed lovely but it was a bit of a business to get a decent photo without masses of people in it. Still it was enjoyable and of course the Memoirs of a Geisha reminders were everywhere. But then the biggest surprise and one of the loveliest spots on the whole trip was when we went from the Bamboo Forest into Okochi Sanso, the home of an old Japanese actor in Samurai films of the 1930s (I think). This was totally, amazingly splendid. There was a circuitous garden winding up through the hillside with these beautiful tranquil areas of such perfection and beauty it was breathtaking. For me it was a highlight although I had to focus as I clambered up a path of rocks. There were also divine views down over Kyoto. There were a million different shades of green and little shrines along the way. At the end of the walk through the garden we got a bowl of green tea and a little cake in a lovely setting, which was much needed.…a highlight for sure.

We then walked back down through the Bamboo Forest with the masses and then along the crowded streets to the river. We had a spot of lunch and then decided to head back home and have a break. It was thoroughly hot and sweaty work this. Rose pointed out that I had a drop of sweat hanging from my earring at one point!! It was literally pouring off me. So we waited and waited for our bus, eventually got on one that was the same number as the one that brought us there but it was definitely not right!! We eventually had to jump off and get onto a subway and then walk home from there. We were very happy to be home because a) we escaped the intense heat and humidity and b) the night of indulgence that preceded today left us both exhausted so we just didn’t have to oomph to keep going. It was already 3pm so we ended up just staying put until we went out to get our dinner tonight.

Tonight we had decided to try one of the French Restaurants that surround us which we did and it was enjoyable although I always tend to feel a bit guilty when I don’t eat Japanese…but it was good and fun and now we are ready for bed. Our last day in Kyoto tomorrow…we have a plan. It remains to be seen how much of it we achieve!!

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