Month: October 2016

Well it doesn’t take too long to work out that Berlin is an amazing city of the scale of New York, London and Melbourne. It is just so vibrant and alive. This might be helped by the fact that this is a 4 day weekend and the crowds are amazing. Coming back to the apt at 5pm on a Sunday afternoon you would think it was peak hour. The trains were jam packed, so much so that you could hardly move.

I set off later this morning thinking it was Sunday and the place would be dead til lunchtime. Wrong. I got out and about at 11am and already the place was alive. My mission today was to get to the Sunday flea market at Mauerpark. I made a few miss by way of busses, trains and trams, all of which I hopped on to get where I was going. Anyway long story short I got there and it was just alive with people. You could (again) hardly move. And this is how I spent the day, wandering a massive flea market that goes beyond anything in our experience it is so huge (Salamanca market eat your heart out). It sits under a surviving piece of the wall that is used by graffiti artists to practice their art. There is everything you can imagine for sale. I had my mandatory hit of gluhwein and, finally a Currywurst!! I’d been saving up this treat for Berlin thinking that it was about the least appealing thing I could think of eating (except for liver in Sicily and tarantulas in Cambodia). But…surprisingly it was delicious and I polished it off zestfully.

I had read that at 3 there was a famous and traditional karaoke. So I made my way over to find it. I eventually found myself a seat and sat down to take it all in. Well that was another surprise. It is a massive event with people sitting up a large hill amphitheatre-style and all around a court area. Thousands of people all totally into it. There were people walking through the crowds with crates of beer and doing a roaring trade. There was every style you could imagine of singing from the abysmal (much loved by the crowd) to the highly professional. All of course had to have a sense of show biz to stand up there in front of this crowd. I learned it was the last Karoake for the year so I was lucky to get in. Daylight saving ceased last night and sadly the clocks went back. So by 4.30 pm is was starting to get dark and very cold so I left. By 5pm it was dark. I haven’t bought any food for my apt at all, so (I admit shamefully) I stopped again at the Italian restaurant near here and had a lasagne. Pathetic I know!! I’ll have to get myself organised. Maybe Chris will help in this regard.

Tomorrow I have a few things to do but I’m having a bit of a go slow so I don’t do things Chris wants to do. There is absolutely no shortage of things to do though. I’m coming to terms with the transport system as I make my way around…a sense of achievement in itself.

Here I am firmly ensconced in Berlin in a very nice Airbnb. It is roomy and lovely. I got a taxi from the train station. He brought me to Wilhelmstrasse but then said that it wasn’t far away as he was looking at the numbers, so I got out of the taxi to find that it actually was a way away…there I was plodding again!! It is at 110 Wilhelmstrasse and the SS headquarters and massive complex was at 102 Wilhelmstrasse. So, of course, as soon as I went out walking I found myself immediately in the ‘Topography of Terror” which is the memorial to WW11 that now stands on the site. I foolishly walked in…foolish because once in there it’s impossible to get out again. it is all so engrossing. I tagged on to a tour with a man from the centre and he was so engaging that I was totally absorbed. It is a magnificent memorial. I have to say the Germans are so upfront and honest about the past it is very impressive. This is also where a preserved part of the wall is, so it is a very interesting site and it’s all free. From there I walked along to Checkpoint Charlie which of course doesn’t actually exist and surrounding which is a great deal of kitch. Still it was interesting for me remembering emerging into West Berlin after my erroneous, ill fated journey through the East in 1972. Weird!!

I walked some more but by now I was exhausted, then lo and behold I found a lovely Italian Restaurant and had a Ravioli. Went to the Supermarket and stocked up on wine and came home. Tomorrow is going to be a lazy day I think. There is a Flea Market that has been recommended so I think I’ll do that as my only activity for the day. I might even try a CurryWurst!! This is a long, long weekend in Germany with Monday and Tuesday as holidays so the place is bopping. Chris is arriving on Tuesday for 6 days and she is already sending multiple bits of information about places to go, restaurants to eat at etc. I think she gets great information where I am the plodding sort of tourist…so it will be fun to have her here….also fun to have someone to talk to!!

Berlin certainly has a very vibrant sort of feel so I think I will enjoy it.

Off I set for Lubeck this morning. It was a very bleak morning. Cold+dark+drizzle=bleak! I got on a train going to Lubeck (I checked) after puzzling through how to get a ticket and what system I was using. However when the ticket checker got on she was very perturbed…You are on the wrong train!! Going to Lubeck…yes but not the regional train, the IC train. ‘Vere are you living’ , ‘Australia”, ‘AAHH How would you know it?’ So she went on her way. The result was that the train sped along at 140Km/he and I was in Lubeck in half an hour. Not such a bad mistake but a bit humiliating!!

Lubeck is a lovely city. It has that iconic entrance ‘gate’ that Andy Warhol made famous, the Holstentor. And the sweetest German houses…click, click, click. How many photos can a person take of cute houses, lovely little laneways and tiny houses built in courtyards behind existing houses. This is how the middle ages coped with a housing crisis. Just lovely. I found my way around the town taking in these lovely areas and the odd lovely church but no time for Museums. I took in the houses of Thomas Mann (Buddenbrookhaus – I’ve read the book), Gunter Grass and Willy Brandt. Altogether a very busy and interesting day. Then back to Hamburg (exhausted but on the right train, the regional). Feet hurt etc etc. I’m feeling more and more like I’m tired and 2.5 weeks in Berlin must see a lay day I think.

Have to go now and pack the bags to be ready to go tomorrow…I’m excited to be seeing Berlin finally. But first have to negotiate the subway system with 2 suitcases. I’ll let you know how that goes!! Rose, have been thinking of you as I walked Lubeck, thinking you’d be on the boat going across Bass Strait. That’s exciting. Ham and Az…happy house hunting. Talk to me over the w/end. Ang and Kirst, the photos of Louis were heavenly and made me homesick. In other words missing you all ++++. Calamia, are you out there somewhere??

Today I stayed in Hamburg and plodded around doing things I wanted to do like doing the tour of the Rathaus. I’ve tried 4 times to catch the English tour but failed each time. This time I achieved it and saw the indie of this formidable building that dominates hamburg. That was good…tick! Then I went back to St Pauli. This time to get away from the sleezy area of the Reeperbahn and into the too cool for school area. That was interesting. There is no doubt that this is a very trendy city with a studied sort of edginess that is a bit like Fitzroy. I found a lovely and very up to the minute cafe for my lunch. I stayed there for a while it was such a nice atmosphere. I then set off to revisit a couple of places I wanted to revisit but found that I was walking around in circles…at which time I gave up. I was very tired today for some reason so I came home early, did a load of washing and had a shower and washed my hair. That feels good!!

Tomorrow I’ve decided I have to go to Lubeck. Lonely Planet tells me not to miss it so I’d best get myself into gear to not miss it. Short blog tonight…got to go and get my washing out of the dryer….more to tell tomorrow I should think!!

I think I’m a bit of a glutton for punishment but I set off again today for another of those little towns outside Hamburg that the LPG told me were worth visiting. I was a bit more organised today re working out the system and got myself to Luneburg very efficiently. Another scrumptious little German town with lovely little houses and small lanes. Everything in Germany reminds me of England. There are so many similarities. I was kind on myself today and had coffee, lunch and the odd treat as I wandered the town.

Lunch was a bit hilarious as I went to a cafe that is staffed by disabled people which is great and there is a similar one in Lucca. But you try disability AND absolutely no language skills on the part of this customer and you end up with a far amount of misunderstanding. Anyway all good.

Then I got back on the train to Hamburg and thought it was early so why not fit another ‘must see’ in. So I went from train to bus (getting good!!!) and headed for Miniatur Wunderland. Well that was truly amazing I must say. It was Rose I wanted with me this time knowing how she loves a good weird tourist attraction (Hamburg Dungeon is in the same building!!!). It truly was totally amazing and absorbing. Sadly it is school holidays in Hamburg so it was full to the brim of revolting kids and I had to wait 45 mins to get in but what can you do?? The detail and ingenuity of the ‘world’ is truly something to behold. They so accurately represent cities and countries that it is mind blowing. They have hamburg airport with planes landing and taking off…really?? They have road accidents with emergency services responding and building on fire with the fire brigade putting the fire out. I got so absorbed, I was there for over 2 hours and came out to the dark.

So home late but lo and behold the heating is fixed so a much more pleasant night not wrapped up in a doona.

Tomorrow I was going to go to Lubeck but I think now that I’ll have a day off running somewhere else and will spent a casual day revisiting parts of Hamburg and try and take it a bit easy. Then maybe Lubeck on Friday if I think I’ve seen all there is to see in Hamburg (well, by that I mean within my limited time span etc.)

Now I’ll look at my photos and see what I’ve captured!

Today I headed off for a small town on the outskirts of Hamburg, Stade. It is a quintessentially German town with lovely little wooden and brick houses. It too me ages to get there on the train system but it was worth it. I had some intentions of doing another town as well but completely ran out of time. Every morning at the moment Hamburg is covered in fog. Around midday the fog lifts and you see a brief period of sun, even blue sky, then fog descends again. But it isn’t too bad. My clothes are sufficing me but my coat is never off my back. It was nice walking around Stade in the middle of the day. I then went and had some lunch in the Rathskeller which was OK. I had a potato smothered in sour cream and bacon!!!! Then I wandered some more before heading to the train station which was a bit sad as my sense of direction landed me on totally the wrong side of town and I had to walk around the outskirts. My feet got depressed again.

Tomorrow I think I’ll go to the other little town and then I also want to go to Lubeck which is near here. If I do both those things (and maybe I won’t) I’ll only have one more day in Hamburg with more things I want to do here. Cant do it all I guess.

VW is in the news here…going to buy back the cars in UK. Any news in Aust??

2 days have flown by as I get to know this large and interesting city. I’m sitting here with a donna wrapped around me freezing to death with no heating!! Also as Germany moves into winter there are people coughing all around me. Every time I get on a train there is someone spluttering next to me…the question is will I get away with it or will something catch me? OK so far.

So, to yesterday. I tootled into the Rathaus to try to understand the old city. Then I espied a free walking tour..ahaa!!…I walked around the groups until I heard English and joined the group. It was great. 2 hours of walking around the inner city with Erik the Viking…no Erik the Guide. He had very long legs so I had to work hard to keep up with the group of young people but it was terrific. It gave me an excellent orientation and I started to really get a handle on it. When the tour ended Erik The Younger pointed out the Portuguese Quarter where he said the food was great. Perfect thought I !! I went and found a nice Portuguese Restaurant and had a fish stew that was delicious. I asked for red wine and they brought me the customary Quartino…perfect!!

Then I started to retrace the tour to further explore but alas I was flagging badly by the time. I went into St Michaelis church and went up the tower in the lift (which started after 60 stairs). There were nice views of the massive harbour. Then I went back to the warehouses, in one of which is now housed Miniature World which everyone says is great. But I had to wait half an hour before I could get in and I was too tires so gave up. I got on a bus which was sort of going to take me towards home but I got cold feet and bailed at the Central station to get on my familiar train.

I was so tired when I got home but it was a good day and I was really feeling as if I had started to come to terms with Hamburg.

Today: Well I started out unsure what I was going to do. There are a couple of towns I want to visit and I discovered they are actually accessible on the Hamburg train system but my ticket won’t take me there without paying a supplement. I must say I know why the German Boys were so casual about getting a ticket here. There are no checks on the train at least not so far. So before I worked all that out I continued to explore Hamburg. I went today to St Pauli and to the Reeperbahn (the red light district). I wandered all the way down and around until I came across Herbertstrass which has a big graffiti wall with signs saying no men under 18 and no women. But it was early and quiet and I was curious so in I went. And lo and behold, even st 11am there were indeed woman sitting in the windows. I smiled at them cheerfully and kept walking…fascinated. That was fun. Ham you will know it all. Then I walked down to the Landungsbrucken, the docks where all the ferries and tourist boats come and go. I knew that there was a normal commuting ferry that would take me up the Elbe River towards the North Sea. I found it …all free on my weekly card and took a ride down and back on the ferry which was marvellous. It is such a massive and busy port unloading ships and ferrying people all over the place.

I was hungry and I found a Grande Marnier Crepe (where am I???). I then went to the Central Station to work out how to get to those aforementioned towns. I got the information but it was too late by then so I walked back down to the shopping area and walked along the Canals with all the designer shops which really aren’t my scene. By then I was back to being totally exhausted and made my way home. Scrambled eggs for tea…all good. Tomorrow, off to these little towns

Lots of love everyone. I’m missing you all enormously..of course!!

A quick word before I set out for Day 2 in Hamburg. Its a hard city to get to know so I’m struggling a bit to get the vibe. I set out yesterday morning to try and sort myself out. But wait…first I had to wait for the apt owner to come and remove the smoke detector that had tweeted all night long to the point of sending me totally demented. Anyway I did set out…worked out a ticket for the train and headed into the Hauftbahnhof to the tourist information for my maps and a rail ticket. Had to go somewhere else for a 7 day ticket but did all that OK. Then walked off to the Old City and the Rathaus. wandered around a bit and off to see another site..the Chilehaus. But really not getting a feel for it and wandering aimlessly. So I took Rose’s suggestion and headed for the Art Gallery. The Kunsthalle. That was really very nice. Best because they had an exhibition of the surrealists. I’ve never before seen so many iconic Dali’s together in one area. it was spectacular along with Ernst, Margitte, Miro etc…Great. That took hours and hours so when I emerged it was nearly dark. I headed back for the train and home. The problem with home is that it is COLD. The heating has broken down and it really is frosty.

Anyway, off again this morning with a bit of a better plan for walking around the old town. There was the Sunday Fishmarket on this morning and I really wanted to go but it is on in the early hours (very early hours) and I couldn’t work out how to get there in the dark. I didn’t know if the trains would be running, I didn’t fancy standing on a street corner trying to get a taxi in the dark so I gave up on it. Shame that but its the price you pay for being alone and a bit more daunted than you would be if you had a mate.

Here I am settled into my Hamburg apartment. No idea where I am in relation to the city, nor really how to get myself into the city. I must say using Airbnb is much more fun when you guys are with me. It’s a bit of a disorienting experience by myself and Germany itself has got very disoriented now that I’m alone. I have no idea what to buy re food etc. It is totally different and I’m struggling with it. But let me start at the beginning. I started with food because I’ve just come from the supermarket, a very strange experience!!!

Got myself to the train this morning and got myself actually on to the train with my 2 suitcases…all minor achievements. The train ride was very sedate until about half way when a large group of work friends got on. Well that was peace over. All the Germans seem to hop on the train and pop a tinny straight away but this group went one step further. They had Champagne, schnapps, beer and something else. Before I knew it I had a plastic cup full of Champagne and was incorporated into their ‘prost’ group.They were hilarious if you could understand them…they incorporated the whole carriage although not everyone approved. So, a most interesting trip. The Germans love Australians and all have a relative in Melbourne. I never before thought about how many Germans there are in Melb.

Anyway I arrived in Hamburg and took the easy way out, hopping into a taxi to get to wherever I am. I was met without hassle and oriented to my nice apartment on the 25th floor with a great view. Only problem is that the heating is broken for the entire block and it isn’t warm!! Oh well I guess that that isn’t a deal breaker. I went out walking before settling down for the evening, incorporating a supermarket shop and a bottle of wine. Had to work hard to get German wine with Australia dominating the shelf. This area, and I guess Hamburg, reminds me so much of London. The same autumnal feeling with grey skies, mild drizzle and autumn leaves. Similar housing and the village feeling of this area is reminiscent (although not nearly as nice) of Islington.

Now for tea…all I could manage was bread, liverwurst and cheese…in general I am definitely in need of a bit of adjustment.

Bye everyone for now…I will go into study mode and try and get a handle on this city.

Here I am again. Good to hear from Ham and Ang today. Always helps to know I’m not floating out here disconnected.

Yesterday afternoon I went on a mission to get myself a German phone. It was a bloody hassle to get one way and another but finally I’m up and running.

Then I went off and wandered around the Dom. Very lovely inside but a rather black mass on the outside I think. Anyway I saw there was a tour in English in the morning and decided I’d go back for that as the Dom was my main reason for coming to Cologne.

I wandered about some more and agonised over my options for dinner. Very scary when the Germans eat in these big beer halls where they just come around dropping off beers as soon as your glass is empty. And the food…fuck me, I definitely fail German food 101. Fortunately I happened to get a nice waiter. There were these pork hocks coming out one after the other. I must say I was wishing I had you all with me. You’d all have loved the pork as would I but it was HUGE…I needed a share partner. And Rose you would be in beer heaven too, it would suit you to the ground. So I ordered (guess what !!) a pasta dish. The waiter told me it wasn’t German!! And I drank the beer…what else can you do?? Then I did timidly ask if I could get a glass of wine, which I did…phew!!

This morning it was raining and rather bleak. Nothing opens before 10am and I had trouble even getting a coffee. I headed back to the Dom (my hotel is just next to it which is perfect) for my guided tour. It was definitely worth it and the Dom really is superb with stained glass that would rival any in the world. Then after a short toilet break at the hotel I headed down to the Rhine and the old part of town (except that the war has ensured that everything old is new again). That was nice, I wondered around in the rain up the little streets and down again. I stopped for a soup lunch and a beer, you can’t get anything without a beer and I don’t think I’ll ever really like it. But when in Rome…… The soup was very creamy and full of sausage, oh dear this is an adjustment.

I decided not to do any museums here so I just had a relaxed afternoon wandering around. Then it was once again time for dinner so I took a deep breath and I went to a different bloody great beer hall. This one wasn’t such a good choice, it was busier, noisier and my waiter wasn’t particularly nice. I felt really odd as a single person and he made me move tables once so he could fit more people. Again, what to eat?? The beer was already in front of me of course. This time I found potato fritters with applesauce…very weird!! I ate half of it and gave up! Now I’m back at the hotel and think I’ll go down and get myself a glass of wine.

Tomorrow morning I’m off to Hamburg which I’m hopeful will be great.