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Quiet day by the pool

Yesterday was a day by the pool. Although the kiddies dominate even they have to go and have lunch and there are times when I can hop into the pool with no-one around and it is heavenly. Then to lie on the terrace and read with the sun pouring down is absolutely heaven. Ariane concocted a delicious lunch again and the day went by lazily. Apart from the kids we have at least one very strange neighbour. A (very) hard drinking Russian man and his very coquettish woman. He drinks all day long and came up to us in the pool to introduce himself. ‘I am Alexander, where you from? Ah, Australia, Kangaroo!! Putin very, very good! Obama not good!’….OK??!! Then he comes out drinking something he identifies as gin and beckons us in to drink with him!!…no thank you!! Weird!

In the evening we went into the small town nearby Brucoli which has some nice restaurants (or so it looked when we cruised through there the other day in the pouring rain). We were early so we booked a table at Sud Cafe and went down to their bar by the water for a drink. The setting was superb and we sat out on the rocks sipping Spritz, Mohitos etc…you know the routine. It was really lovely but it went sour when we went to pay and it was 43Eu!! We added up our drinks and it came to 32Eu, so I (delegated spokesperson) went up to ‘clarify’ and ask to see the bill. Which they couldn’t supply and what then ensued was an argument in which I took their calculator and added it all up. Then they said 10% service charge…OK said I fair enough, that’s another 3 Eu and brings us to 35Eu…still not 43. Then they rattled on about a Tourist menu…I told them they were the most expensive bar in Italy and we wouldn’t be back….but I couldn’t do more!

We then had to go to the restaurant run by the same people…it was very posh so we kept our ordering to a minimum but it was fairly ordinary anyway. When we were loving it we were going to bring Ang and Kirst here tonight but not any more!!

Today is Sunday and Ham is working away. At lunch time Ariane and I will go into Catania to pick up Angus and Kirst…exciting!!

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Perfect sunny Sicilian days

Well the weather has cleared and the days are now perfect, sunny and warm. The view from our apartment perched over the Mediterranean and looking across to Etna is just simply perfect. The swimming pool is perched on the edge of the cliff and the apartment with its expansive terraces is made for an outdoor lifestyle. Very relaxed and holidayish!!

We have been exploring the towns around us each day. The day before yesterday we went into Catania, a bustling, busy town. We wandered for a bit and then went to the fish market to buy supplies. There was every kind of fish available and we bought our Mussels, clams, calamari and scampi. The scampi, however, turned into a silly disaster thanks to me. I am designated spokesperson because of my extremely limited Italian which, although totally appalling, is better than anyone elses. So I go to get a few Scampi because I love them. I try to bargain down the price and he says he’ll give me all he has left (3 kg) for 10 Eu and I say OK. Ariane looks at me aghast, saying WHAT are we going to do with 3kg of Scampi???? As she is the cook, how the hell would I know.

After buying our fish we went to a wonderful fish restaurant within the market. It was heavenly and we ate our fill of mussels, clams and prawns etc. Then we headed back to the car and made our way home with a purchases of seafood. The strong smell of seafood was overwhelming even when we got it into the fridge and Hammy, particularly, complained bitterly about it. The small was coming from, you guessed it, my scampi. I went through them and discarded those that were suspect and separated out the ones that looked good. But the unease about the scampi could not be erased from my brain. So the next day I bundled them all up and out they went…my bargain gone to shit!!

Notwithstanding we had a most delicious meal of Mussels created by Ariane that night, sitting out on the balcony as the sun set. It couldn’t have been more idyllic.

Yesterday Hammy did some work in the morning and then we headed off to Noto to explore this town, listed as a World Heritage Site. We went in search of a restaurant noted in the LPG as excellent. This entailed a hike up to the High town only to find that the restaurant was closed. So down we came again and found another nice restaurant where we had a delicious meal. Not fish this time, we are starting to feel rather fished out! We then wandered the very pretty Baroque town with its beautiful golden, sandstone buildings. It is lovely but not totally overwhelmingly beautiful. We then headed back home and once again Ariane created a grand meal, this time preparing Calamari from the fully intact squid. No mean feat!!

Today is Saturday and our lovely pool is suddenly full of kiddies here for the weekend I guess. Ham and Ariane have just been for a swim in the ocean. Access is a bit tricky so I have to pluck up a bit more courage and maybe have both boys on hand to help if needs be.

More tomorrow…when Ang and Kirst arrive.

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Exploring Sicily in the wet!

Fine, beautiful weather all over Italy except, you guessed it, Sicily!!

Yesterday afternoon we went off to the local towns around where we are staying. First to Augusta to essentially find a Big Supermarket to stock up. We did that then drove around the town a bit. We then went off to a small town near here called Brucoli. A lovely little seaside town that looked as if it would be really nice if only it wasn’t raining and wild. So we didn’t stop…for another time, like when Ang and Kirst are with us. So home we came and Ariane just casually whipped up a delicious meal of antipasto-type food. Ham has hooked us up to Netflix so we are now watching a series ’Narco’.

Then we went to bed but the action didn’t stop. First there were helicopters literally scraping past the Villa and searching the sea. We are just opposite, and overlook, Catania which is where the refugee boats land to enter Italy. So I got up to have a look at what was going on but couldn’t see anything, just helicopters circling. Then the rain, thunder and lightning started and rain it did so there was the concern we’d flood again. But they (the owner) had put sandbags along the door and I’d put towels along the inside of the door which they had provided and there was no internal water this morning. All good, and it really is so wonderful listening to the wild weather and the sea just outside the window.

This morning I had a great, long Skype with my work buddies and caught up on the comings and goings in that world. Hammy works in the morning so the starts are slower and a long Skype is such a lovely way to spend time. Then we set out to go to Piazza Armerina and the nearby Villa Romana del Casale. Well honestly it was just pouring, visibility was terrible and the weather was unrelenting. When we left this morning I had a great optimism about the weather clearing up so I was decked out in T-Shirt, thongs etc and shit was that a bad call. There were potholes, mudslides and landslides. Torrential is the word I think. We stopped in Piazza Armerina for lunch and just stepping out of the car meant we were soaked. The roads we had to cross were like rivers. The first place we swam into was full so we had to go out again into the river and swim to another place. We did in fact then get a good lunch which we enjoyed. We then set off for Villa Romana. At which point we sat in the car wondering whether we had the energy to get out of the car and walk the 400 or so metres to the Villa, wading through water…or whether we should turn around and just go home.

Fortunately we got out and went into the Villa. It was a complete treat. The mosaics were amazing and a joy to look at. We spent our time there looking at probably the most intact, splendid and extensive floor mosaics I have seen in one place. We loved it and when we had finished looking at them the rain had finally stopped (at least for the time being) and the drive home was quite pleasant.

We wondered what we would find when we got home and there had indeed been a huge amount of rain back at the ranch as well, however, although there was some rain inside there was not nearly as much and it was easy to mop up. The clouds are clearing and we can look across at Mt Etna and Catania now. The sea is rough but it is wonderful to listen to. The weather is going to clear, or so we believe, and hopefully the sun will shine tomorrow.

We’ve just had another Ariane creation of delicious salad and a yummy sausage…time for bed!!

A Domani

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Changing sons and changing pace

No time for emails again so they are fewer and ‘farer’ between and I have trouble remembering where I’m up to.
Maybe I’ll start right now as I sit in a Villa on the East coast of Sicily between Catania and Syracusa. The villa overlooks the Mediterranean with a view across the water to Mt Etna.

It is a rustic, white villa with steps down to the sea and a large swimming pool (shared with others in the complex). Our bedrooms overlook the sea and the sound of the sea lulls you to sleep (reminiscent of Trieste).
It is paradise and very relaxing. Only one problem at the moment…it is pissing down. Apparently rain today and tomorrow and then fining up again. Hammy has to get some work done while we are here (contract work) so the mornings will be slower starts while he does his work.

So now back to chronology which means back to Barcelona for the last day in Spain. From where I left off last time, we did go out for a meal that night and almost accidentally (except the AirBnB had recommended it) found a lovely restaurant (Restaurant Market) for a beautiful meal, and we couldn’t believe the cost…so much cheaper to be back in Spain.

The next day (Sunday) we had a pre-booking for Park Guell early. So we jumped into a taxi and off we went. It is lovely and we walked around, up to the top of the hill and down again and around. Then we got back into a taxi and went to Carrera Gran de Garcia to wander long looking at all the Gaudi houses. We only looked from the outside as it was 20 Eu each to go inside. But truly, what can you say, that man was a bloody genius. His work is so spectacular and different and interesting. It is a magnificent street with some amazing architecture both Gaudi and Gothic. We walked on down La Rambla in search of particular restaurants for lunch but the ones we wanted were closed it being Sunday! We walked to the waterfront and found a very mediocre place for lunch but there is a limit to how much walking you can do in search of elusive restaurants. Then Kirst and I got in a taxi to go back to the apartment for a rest and a ‘get ready for moving on tomorrow’ session. Ang walked home…honestly that boy has got ants in his pants!! As if we hadn’t already walked our little feet off!!

It was a lazy afternoon. Kirst had a rest (she is doing extraordinarily well walking, walking, walking, exploring, exploring and exploring)and I pottered around. Then time to go out to find a nice evening meal and a last meal in Spain. Again a bit awkward because all the restaurants that had been recommended to us were closed on Sunday. We got in a taxi and headed for the waterfront. We went for a nice walk along the waterfront and then went looking for a random restaurant, of course (it being Barcelona) we fell upon a really lovely place and had a most delicious meal of Tapas-type food, great wine etc. A taxi back home and then into bed.

Hopeless for me as I had to get up at 2.30am to get ready and walk to a pick-up point for the shuttle bus to the airport for a 3am pick up. Ang, bless his little heart, got up and helped me get to the pick-up point which was great. Then began a long and rather arduous trip to the airport as the shuttle had to pick up others…most of whom were ‘no shows’. I guess it isn’t easy getting up at that hour!! A long line up at Veiling to check the baggage in but all good for the flight. Arrived Palermo and very smoothly waited the prescribed 1.5hrs for Ham and Ariane, all good.

Then pick up the hire car….CHAOS!!! Shocking system. Shuttle bus to car hire place, huge queue and everyone with mountains of luggage. A shuttle bus would come and only some of those waiting could get on so of course there were taxis waiting to pick up an easy 10Eu to take you there. You don’t know where it is so you can’t walk and they tell you it’s 2km which, with all the luggage is disastrous. So you give them your 10 Eu and they take you round in a circle, back the other way and about 500Mt away was the car hire place. Then it was like a madhouse. We took a ticket and were 23 people away from our turn. Anyway, after 2 hrs we had our car and we were off. We loved it, settled in and as we had no food we went out and found a lovely little local seafood restaurant and enjoyed a lovely meal (again). Then we were all desperate to get into bed and catch up on some sleep (H&A also started off at 3am to get here).

Literally while I’ve been sitting here writing this email my image of Paradise has been shattered. I looked down a while ago to see my feet submerging in water. I turned around to see water pouring into ‘Paradise’ from the side balcony and water pouring onto the side balcony from above. There is always something to shatter the perfect scenario…if it’s not mosquitoes it’s a flood. We’ve had lots of hooha since then. I rang the manager, people came and have been deliberating, we’ve been mopping up and towelling and just coping with all that. They offered to move us into Catania for 2 days, we declined because we’d rather cope than move and the weather forecast is rain today and tomorrow and then fine and hot…so we’ll cope!!!

I love being back in Italy and I loved being in Spain…they are such warm and lively countries. Update on how the floods go tomorrow as we get through to the sun again.

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Moving through France and down to Spain

These days are moving at such a pace that my emails are suffering and then I have to go into massive mode! And I have to remember where I was up to. Tricky for an ageing brain.

We were just going off to Pierre’s place for drinks. That was really lovely. He was so welcoming. He had a wide selection of pate, terrine, sausage made of offal (but it was absolutely delicious), sea snails, saussicon etc and a selection of wines to try from the Chateau he works for. His two beautiful little children were there and really, French children have to be the cutest (Angus hasn’t stopped saying ‘il tu plait, Papa’ (Please Papa) since…he sees himself as a French Papa!). So we had a lovely night. They were very generous and welcoming.

Home to bed and then get organised to head out to Kok’s place the next morning. We did a bit of shopping for cheeses along the way then set off. We diverted to Chateau de Malle on the way where Angus worked in 2009. Of course that was a longer diversion than we thought because Angus had to chat to people he knew (Michel), we tasted the 2009 Sauterne that Angus helped make, bought some bottles and eventually went on our way. We arrived at Kok’s place around 12. It is so lovely, just heavenly actually, a beautiful rustic, very french cottage with a swimming pool that is divine…dream come true. We were once again made to feel very welcome despite the very late night they had had with their neighbours the night before. The first thing was Negroni’s that Kok poured which packed a punch in a very delicious way. So much so that one Negroni lead to another!! A good start to a good night. We sat about catching up, drinking and going in and out of the pool. To cut a long story short (which I have been finding challenging lately) we had a delightful evening, had Tarjine’s from a local restaurant for dinner and stayed up until well into the morning eating and drinking happily. A night to remember.

Next morning, maybe a little less exuberantly, we started slowly with coffee, had a farewell swim, said our farewells and set off towards San Sebastian. All went to plan. We dropped the car off at Hendaye and hopped on the local train (weighed down with multiple bottles of wine acquired in Bordeaux) and got ourselves to San Sebastian. We walked to our Pension which was very nice (job well done choosing the accommodation if I do say so myself). Then it was on for young and old as we hit the town on the prowl for Tapas/ wine bars. I think we hit 6 or 7. Kirst retired at about no. 5 when Angus and I returned to our favourite (San Telmo). The slowly roasted beef cheek, the octopus, the pork, the anchovies were just some of the favourites. It was a late night but a happy night…what more could you want after all??

The next morning we were up, had to organise our luggage with the multiple additional wine bottles and leave it at the Pension for the day. Our flight was at 7pm so we had the day to enjoy San Sebastian. We started by finding a nice place for breakfast, then walking around the ‘rock’ at the end of town, Mount Urgell, that gave us beautiful views of SS from all angles. Very beautiful. We then walked through the old town some more and when it was time for lunch we started once again finding nice Tapas bars. The first one specialised in Anchovies like you have never tasted. Then we found lovely places for delicious dishes that defy description. Fantastic really. We wandered some more, went back for more anchovies, walked along the seafront, sat by the sea and had a lovely time filling in the day until it was time to get in the taxi and go to the dinky little airport of SS.

Then it was a bit frustrating as our plane was delayed 2 hours. Could have been worse of course and the Airbnb people where we were staying were fantastic and waited for our 11pm arrival without complaint. By that time we were exhausted and had no energy to go out and eat so just went straight to bed. It’s a great apartment by the way…even has a washing machine!!

We had a booking for Sagrada Familia for 9.45 so no dilly dallying this morning. We got ourselves up and organised and into a taxi to take us there. Any and I have been there before but never inside. I was completely blown away…it is wonderful, magnificent, amazing. Gaudi is a total genius. I loved it completely. We had a tour which was very informative and then we had a booking to go up to the Nativity Tower. Lift up…too easy, only 30 or so steps at the top. But you had to walk down and that really is a LONG way down. My legs were like jelly when we landed…but great.

After finishing there we got in a taxi (cheaper that the Metro for 3 people) and came down to the Gothic Area. We found a lovely place and rested over lunch with more delicious Tapas to keep us happy. We had booked for the Picasso Museum for 15.30, so we wandered about the Le Born area, enjoyed the Le Born Cultural Centre, wandered the narrow, windy streets until our time to go to the Museum.

I loved the Museum it had great examples of Picasso’s work from the time he was 14yrs, showing how his work had developed over the years. Great. Then, I hate to say it, but it was my idea to walk back to the apartment….by the time I got back I was sorry about that suggestion but it was a great walk all along La Ramblas to Placa Catalanya and then more, much more. After the Placa it is a blur for me!!! Poor Kirst has taken to the bed to recover and I am considering the prospect of how to gather myself to go off again to find food…only 3 blocks this way and then 3 blocks that way…not far!!!….Oh yeah!!! Angus and I spent most of the day pulling in opposite directions, each of us convinced we were right (I was right actually!!!). Hilarious!!!

We now gather our strength to tackle another night of wine and Tapas…So you’re in Barcelona, what else can you possibly do????

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Finding Ang and Kirst in France

So far behind now, hard to know where I left off.

I think it’s back to Roma…so hot and sticky again. Days spent organising myself to move on. Getting boarding passes, organising how to get to and from airports etc etc. Loads of washing on the go…you know the drill.

Friday was basically packing up day and I went out to absorb a bit of Rome to last me til I get back.

Chris and I went out for a meal on Friday night along the Tevere, as always a relaxed and enjoyable walk and meal. We walked home along the river which is just abuzz at this time of year.

Saturday morning I was being picked up by the shuttle service to go to the airport at 6am so it was an early start to get myself and 2 cases down the stairs ready to go by then.

All went well on the flight and I was at the hotel before one. It is a small, very French and very cute hotel ‘Latour de Maubourg’, in a fabulous position but don’t try to swing a cat…not possible!

Obviously just so wonderful to finally see Angus after a year. Also to finally meet ‘Freddy’ in the form of a bump…oh and Kirst of course!!!!!

When you travel with Angus you hit the ground running I can tell you. I now have my first blister in nearly a year…
But first we had a lovely lunch in a delightful little French restaurant, some wine and a catch up. It felt both wonderful and surreal to be sitting in a little French restaurant in Paris, with Ang and Kirst at last.

My only problem is that I’ve been rendered totally non-lingual in that I have no idea what’s coming out of my mouth and indeed what should come out of my mouth. I can’t even remember to speak English which is what I should be doing given that I can’t speak anything else!!

After lunch we went walking. Along the Seine to The Louvre to meet Liz and Dave (for those who don’t know Kirst’s mum and bro) who were exploring this massive keeper of beautiful things. Once we had met up with them we sat in the shade in the Jardin des Tulleries for a while just to chat and absorb the atmosphere. We then walked back to the hotel which is where I acquired my blister because I was in sandals unaccustomed to long(ish) walks and sweaty feet.

It was a short break at the hotel before we headed off for drinks and then dinner at Le Grande Colbert. This was once again a fabulous meal and once again Ang and I shared a magnificent Chateaubriand…to die for!! I had a most delicious Foie Gras for entree and desert doesn’t bear description!! Lovely wines, wonderful food and a great night.

Next morning was an 8am start…I was tardy and had to be fetched!! We then had coffee (crap coffee in France and about 6 times more expensive than Italy…just for the record this was a 6 Eu coffee!! Italy 1.20 for 100% better coffee).

We headed off to the Champs Elysees and walked up to the Arch de Triumph. Dave climbed it while the rest of us sat and watched the tourists (of course never feeling like one of them!!). Then we got on the Metro to go Montmartre and of course Up to Sacre Couer.

Now for me this is where a bit of a disaster struck for the first time on my travels. Liz and I went to take the funicular up the hill (this will teach me to be lazy) while the others walked up. Somehow, and I have no idea how, a large amount of money was lifted out of my purse. Literally just the money lifted out. It was so unfortunate in that I am so very careful usually but I had taken 1000Eu out the night before and when I do that I always tuck most of it into a zipped area but we were having drinks at the time and I didn’t do it……..mistake A. So somehow or another (and I am tormented to know how) someone snatched the whole bloody lot out of my purse. Presumably while I was holding it open to buy the ticket for the funicular. I guess it could have been worse, at least I still have my purse and everything it contains (cards etc).

So, moving right along and refusing to let it ruin anything. We walked around the streets of Montmartre for a while, went to get on the Metro to go to San Michele only to find the Metro station closed so we walked to the next station which took us through the very lively African District. Anyway we got to San Michel, had lunch in a very tourist oriented place, wandered through the Latin Quarter and finally hopped in a taxi to come home. At 6pm we were ready to go out again to eat and drink! Drinks before dinner and then dinner at Le Petit Zinc…another place Ang and I had gone 5 years ago. It was a huge disappointment. Sulky waitress, tough steak, poor service. However the Escargot were amazing!!

Then it was farewell to the Bowley contingent as we were off early in the morning. It was good to spend time with them in Paris and also good to be leaving the big city for the provincial life! So yesterday (really?? was it only yesterday?) we set off at 7.30pm by taxi to Gare du Nord to pick up our hire car. Without a hitch we were then heading out of Paris. Then I’m afraid Jane GPS let us down badly. She got totally confused, couldn’t work out where she was and kept desperately trying to get us from Trieste to Bordeaux no matter how often we told her she was in fucking Paris. She got her act together just in time for us to hit the open road…useless in a word! She definitely didn’t gain Angus’ confidence in the first instance and has had to work hard to redeem herself thereafter, not helped by the fact that she tried to take us down a pedestrian street when we reached Bordeaux. In fairness I think we gave her a completely undoable command i.e. an address in a completely pedestrianised area. She has been amazing since though, just for the record.

Anyway it all worked out and everyone was happy when we finally got ourselves to our really lovely hotel right smack in the middle of town and then went out and had the best feed of seafood in a long, long time (well, there was Trieste??!!). We feasted on Oysters, clams, mussels, scampi, calamari, sardines until the table looked as if a bomb had hit it. We were all exhausted and went back for a nice nights sleep.

Are we finally back up to today…so sorry that this is such a mammoth episode!! Today we had a lazier start and a nicely paced morning. After having the mandatory coffee and croissants (now I can legitimately say it in the wanky way) we were taken on a wonderful walking tour of the city by Angus who loves this city so much it is infectious. It is a most lovely city with a very laid-back vibe. It is a city of glorious French architecture, buildings to take your breath away, a spectacular river and large, majestic ‘Piazza’s’ (Place doesn’t sound as effective as a word to describe them). It is such a lively, ‘lived in’ city, very french and not just full of tourists, although of course they are here. Anyway, great city all in all.

In the afternoon we set out to visit Ang’s friend Pierre at the Chateaux he manages the wine making for two Chateaux Rahoul and Le Garde . We had a tour of both, tasted the juice and the grapes, saw the grapes coming in for pressing and generally enjoyed the beauty of the area and had a lovely afternoon in the country. Then we came back to Bordeaux for a bit of downtime before we head out to Pierre’s place to taste the wines and enjoy some local produce tonight. Tomorrow we leave Bordeaux and go to stay the night with Kok (another friend of Angus’). So it continues to be go, go, go for a fantastic experience of this part of France.

I’ll try and keep up better in future so those who read this don’t have to wade through such an epitome.