Our last day in the South East was spent going to Vendicari Nature Reserve. The togs were on but the swim didn’t eventuate. We walked through the National Park to the Torre Sveva (built by Peter of Aragon in C15) and the ruins of the Tuna fishery. We walked to some beaches but it was getting late and we didn’t walk far enough to find the really beautiful beaches so I didn’t go for my swim. The English people who recommended this area also told us about a vineyard that did lunches using all their own produce. So we left the Nature Reserve having explored the ruins and found the restaurant which was exactly as described with really delicious and very cheap food in a very rustic vineyard setting with the ocean in the background. It was lovely. After a leisurely lunch we made our way home to pack and start getting organised. Ariane used leftovers to concoct a dinner. We wanted a last swim in the Sea but the wind was howling and the Sea very rough still so it was not to be. I had a swim in the pool but even that wasn’t as pleasant as it has been after the weekend masses had used it constantly. But the sunset was magnificent over Etna and then the lightning started from afar and the sky was even further lit up over that veers evocative volcano. A fitting end indeed.
But then new beginnings as we set off with our masses of luggage and food to transport from one place to another. We drove up through the middle of Sicily despite the extensive roadworks that made driving difficult (thanks Ham) and the detours regular. We headed for Agrigento because we wanted to go to the Valley of the Temples…which we did and it was a real treat with its magnificent and ancient Greek Temples still standing magnificently against the blue sky. A couple of hours there and then off again towards Palermo again under appalling road conditions. We returned the hire car at Palermo Airport and transferred our multiple bags into a taxi. At this point we truly entered a nightmare with a crazy taxi driver, crazy traffic and the odd bit of total madness e.g. when a massive truck veered into our path and very nearly collected us well and truly. Heart stopping stuff…almost collected a car and then there were the mopeds and the bicycles…we considered it a miracle when we got to our apartment uninjured. Talk about going from one extreme to the other. Our peaceful, beautiful rural setting to the hubbub of Palermo…an amazing, frenetic and vital city.
We were exhausted but went out for a quick meal at a local tapas bar the owners of our apartment(Pietro) had recommended. It was fun but expensive and we were too tired really. Home and we fell into bed…to sleep with the blissful hum of the aircon!!!
This morning I got up and went out for my morning coffee at the bar recommended by Pietro. It was quite a walk for a quick morning coffee but it was a terrific coffee. Best I’ve had since Rome…and a cornetto. I bought back breakfast supplies for Ham and Az who were having a sleep in. When they are organised we will go out again and get to know this town…which I just know already I’m going to love, if the markets I walked through on my way back from coffee are any indication, with their fresh fish, fresh fruit and veggies and eclectic array of goods. The 63 steps up to the apartment are a bit of a disincentive to too much popping in and out!!!
More of this city later.