Month: September 2015

The last 2 days we’ve been exploring the surrounds of Palermo which has been really lovely. Yesterday was a particularly slow start as Ham, who has been working every morning, gazing at a computer screen, ended up with a headache so had to take remedial action. I went out for a coffee and a poke around the streets and came back before we finally got ourselves out and about at around 1pm.

We walked up to a restaurant we had been to for lunch before, ‘La Galleria’. They greeted us like long lost friends which was lovely, and we enjoyed another delicious fishy meal. We then headed up to Piazza Independenza from where the bus was to take us up the hill to Monreale, a sort of hilltop extension of Palermo. And the bus did take us up there, but not before we waited for about 40 minutes (they aren’t regular busses). So we were late arriving and flew into the famous Duomo di Monreale at 5pm. Things were closing up. Ham and Ariane did a quick flip uo the tower to see the view…I reneged on this one given the hill we’d just ploughed up to get to the Duomo in the first place. I focussed on the mosaics which were quite remarkable…again an entire Cathedral coated with amazing mosaics from C15. It really is wonderful.

We then went to the Cloister (which fortunately didn’t close until 6.30pm)…a lovely, tranquil, pretty cloister with mosaic adorned columns. As it was so late it was actually rather wonderful as all the tourists had gone and the Nunns were singing in the background so the peace of the place was remarkable.

Back to get on the bus, but wait, we had just missed a bus and the last bus was an hour and a half away. What to do, what to do?? Ah, there’s a bar up there….thank god!! Have a drink (or maybe have 2) and then head back down to the bus-stop. When we got on the bus a couple of women from the Netherlands who we’d spoken to briefly (they went to the bar for a drink as well) also got on the bus but didn’t have a ticket (thought they could get one on the bus) and the driver wasn’t going to let them get on without a ticket and to get a ticket they would have had to go to the town and they would have missed the bus (last one, remember) anyway. But wait…ever-ready tourists that we are, we had 2 extra tickets which (naturally) we gave them. They were very grateful and then we seemed to see them everywhere!! It became embarrassing and when we sat down, back in Palermo, for a quick meal who should walk in!!….anyway they ended up buying me (because I was the only one greedy enough to accept) a drink. It all got a bit messy really and fortunately we haven’t seen them since!!

Today has been a lovely day. The sun has shone all day. We set off early (for us), with me going ahead for my coffee, for the train station and without incident hopped on a crowded train to Cefalu. This is a really lovely old town on the Northern Coast of Sicily, with lots of character, lovely hilly, narrow streets, a lovely beach with clear water and a Duomo with lovely mosaics. On top of the hill overlooking the town is the mandatory castle, ‘La Rocca’.

We went first to the Duomo and spent time looking at more mosaics (which, just for the record, I never get tired of). Then we found a nice place for a yummy lunch, for the record it was called’ Le Botte’. More seafood dishes and a nice glass of Vino Bianco (for me). We then wondered the streets looking at the shops, we went down to the beaches and wished we were in our bathers for a swim, walked out on the headland bit, wandered the streets some more and got back on the train to come home. All in all a really lovely day. Cefalu is a ‘come back to and stay a while’ sort of town for me. Much nicer than Taormina because so much less crowded.

We’re eating at home tonight complements of Ariane after a big but thoroughly enjoyable day.

Another day walking around Palermo. Always so much to see and do.

We went first of all up to the Quattro Canti in the centre of town and to Piazza della Pretoria to inspect Francesco Camilliani’s magnificent fountain.

Then on up through the Ballaro Market in search of some nice street food. But by this time it was getting very late and when we finally stopped in the market area they were out of a lot of things and the food wasn’t actually too crash hot.

We then headed off towards the Marrionette Museum (Museo internazionale delle marionette Antonio Pasqualino ) but stopped on the way to see the Magnificent Mosaics of Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio, (La Martorana). We went there the other day but there was a wedding on. Thank goodness we went back, it was so superb. The mosaics blow me away completely.

We made it down to the Marionette Museum which was interesting, particularly after seeing the show the other night and we then headed for home as the rain started to come down.

After some downtime we headed out for dinner and (again on the recommendation of our host) found a lovely restaurant in the centre of town called Bisso Bistrot. Nice food and wine.

More tomorrow…18 days until I head home…unreal!!

We started off at lunch time and headed for somewhere to have lunch. Found a Pizzeria and had an ordinary sort of lunch. Then we went to the bus station to get a bus up to the Castello della Zisa, finding the right bus and working it all out was an adventure in itself. But we got there … another Norman-Arabic building that once would have been absolutely magnificent. Some pretty mosaics and stonework but uninspiring restoration work in a very seedy part of town, standing there in its splendid isolation surrounded by tenement housing. After climbing up and down the castle we went to explore the gardens which, again, would once have been fabulous but the fabulousness is now very faded. Once we were in there it was hard to get out as there were no exits at the front. While trying to work all this out we started talking to a man who got so excited when he learned we were from Australia. He got on his mobile phone and his family appeared from nowhere to tell us their family members lived in Sydney etc etc…it took us a while to exit this park, all in all but eventually we did and walked back to the centre via some massive festival or other. We could see a thing, far too many people but it looked BIG.

We finally walked our way home, had dinner at home last night, sent Hammy out for Canolo to finish the meal and watched Narcos via Netflix (clever Hammy). Then we listened to the massive fireworks going off around town. They were serious firework, you would be forgiven for thinking we were being invaded.

Today is Monday…not sure what is on. H&A haven’t emerged yet to set the agenda.

I’ve just read Hammy’s blog and feel quite over-shadowed. There is little to add really but here goes.

Now up to Friday and yes I did go out for a little explore in the morning while Ham and ariane watched the footy, I had some lunch back at the Tapas place we went to on out first night, Tredici. Lunch special for 5EU so who’s to complain.

We then went off to find the Inquisition Museum. What more can I say about our visit to the Palazzo Chiaramonte-Steri which houses an ‘Inquisition Museum’, than what Hammy said:
“Essentially you’re taken through a bunch of gaol cells that were used to house prisoners of the Inquisition from from 1600 to 1782. The walls are covered in 17th Century graffiti which was a mixture of subtle mocking of their captors, reinterpretations of biblical stories to reflect their current situation, protector saints and poetry. All in a variety of languages (including English as there were some English captives). A pretty remarkable historical snapshot all in all”.

I just loved this to pieces, it was one of those complete surprises you get when you stumble across a real treasure. I thought, an inquisition museum…a bit ho hum (having done torture museums with Rosa) but I was blown away. So evocative of the suffering of these prisoners. The funny thing was that Hammy has been raving about the Kingdom of Aragon…his favourite and here was the girl telling us that it was just this regime that had indulged in the inquisition, torturing their prisoners in unimaginable ways.

After this we walked back stopping at a ritzy place on the roof of a big department store for cocktails before going out to dinner. We went to the place we couldn’t get into on our second night…hugely popular but I soon discovered it was a fancy Italian Burger joint. Not really my style but fortunately the ritzy place we went to for cocktails provided tapasy food with the Negroni’s so I didn’t really need to eat a burger and was happy with a taste of Ariane and Hammy’s.

Yesterday was also a slowish start. I headed off a bit earlier and waited for H&A in a bar having my fill of Cappuccini. Then we went to the Modern Art Museum. No surprises or hidden treats there. Some nice pieces and great to see the Art of Sicily but otherwise unremarkable. After moseying around there for a couple of hours we came back home for a break and then set off to see a Sicilian Puppet show – The “Opera dei Pupi”- a show using rod Marionettes with an ancient tradition going back a couple of hundred years. It was fun but a tiny theatre stuffed full of obnoxious Americans. The marrionettes themselves were amazing and the people working them were incredible. After that we found (on the information given to us by our host) a most fabulous fish restaurant called “Mercede”. It was wonderful. I had the Spaghetti with Bottarga again and we shared mains of the most tender Octopus (Polpe) and an amazing fish called Mupa….really yummy food.

Today, a late start again- but included some lovely chats to Angus and Rose.. We basically go out at lunch time so that Hammy can do some work in the morning. We are going to head up to a Castello, taking in some lunch on the way.
Up to date again…another week in Palermo but only 5 days with H&A who are leaving on Friday.

The night before last we didn’t go out to dinner, Ariane and Ham cooked some chicken and a salad to eat at home. This apartment is really quite small and not the best place to cook but they manage, with very little, to produce a fine feed.

Yesterday I went out a bit earlier and had my coffee, did a bit of super marketing and then came back. We all went out about lunch time (Ham does some work in the morning) and set out to walk up to Palazzo Reale, the royal palace of the Normans. We got distracted on the way by stopping at a great restaurant for lunch. Had some lovely fresh fish (Groper) and spaghetti with tuna eggs (Botargo), clams and fresh tomatoes….delicious.

We finally got to the Palazzo Reale and we were blown away by the Capella Palatine within, with its amazing mosaics decorating every inch of this magnificent little chapel. Superb. Within the palace there was also an exhibition of the work of Botero who painted a modern day version of the crucifixion of Christ…brilliant, we all really enjoyed it.

Then we walked around the upper town ticking off a number of churches we wanted to see along the way. Starting with Chiesa di San Giovanni degli Eremiti (St John the Hermit), the ruins of an Arab/ Norman Church/ Mosque, then the ornate Baroque Chiesa del Gesu covered in marble carvings. Only problem was that it seemed to be a very popular day for weddings so we were inhibited in our ability to explore. Then on to Chiesa di San Cataldo, again a fusion of the Normans and the Arabs in a beautiful elegance, again inhibited by a goddam wedding. Time for a drink and a small rest then moving closer to home for Ham and Ariane to have an icecream sandwich (literally masses of ice-cream in a brioche). Then we came home for a bit of a rest and then out for dinner.

The place we were recommended to go to for dinner was hugely popular and we had to queue for a table for half an hour or so but it was worth it. The food was delicious and very cheap. I had Seppia di Nero followed by Swordfish Involtini and then (hard to believe I know!!) followed up with a Canolo. A big meal with a bottle of wine and 20 Eu a head….great value.

Today Ham is working this morning and wants to watch the football. I could go stir crazy so will head out to do my own bit of wandering.

It’s still warm and sunny so pounding the streets to get to know this city is a hot and sweaty business. Not complaining mind you, particularly as the weather seems set to change and then I will be complaining…keeping in mind that I expect Melbourne to do the right thing and warm up for me.

Yesterday when we got going we spent the first hour or so tramping around looking for the goddam tourist office to get out maps! Ham and Ariane would have it that I got them lost but as with all things this is open to interpretation. Then it was time to have lunch which we did in a rather posh and old cafe which was rather nice, sitting outside and watching the world go by, including the refugee kids looking for a handout. One of them got roped into sitting down so a couple of sophisticated young women could buy him something to eat. But he looked so uncomfortable it was more like they had decided to extract a tooth. Poor kid, my heart went out to him.

After lunch we walked through the Capo district, through the extended street market selling fish, fruit and veggies etc. and finally ended up at the most unusual and beautiful Arab-Norman Cathedral with it’s Moorish looking facade including tiling. Hammy is particularly interested in the Kingdom of Aragon that settled this are back in the 10th and 11th centuries, so we went into the treasury part to see the crown jewels of Constance of Aragon…most interesting. Also their tombs down in the crypt…fascinating. There were also the Royal Tombs of the Norman Kings including Federico (there’s that name again!!…great name for a baby I reckon!!)

We then walked back down Via Vittorio Emanuel II…way, way down!! Past the Quattro Canti with the statues on each corner of a Spanish king…most impressive. By the time I got back to the apartment I was pooped and poor dear Hammy went off by himself to find me a bottle of vino. We then had downtime…so much downtime in fact that when we finally got out after 9pm we found it a bit hard to find a table where we wanted to go and had to move on to another place. Nonetheless I nice dinner and then home to bed with the much beloved aircon!!!

Today we again set off rather late and had a day grazing on all the different types of street food. However none of us were brave enough to try the Panini con Milzo (spleen) which is Palermo’s specialty. We have enough time to pluck up the courage. We had arancini, panel, croquets etc..all delicious…but lets not pretend this is healthy eating. After a number of stops and a bit of a sit down lunch break we walked the long way around via ruins of Gothic churches and down to the harbour, stopped for a gelato (of course) and then along the harbour to work out which yacht to buy and back up home. Ham and Az went to the supermarket, giving me a bit of a reprieve again. We’re now rested up once again and ready to hit this town for dinner…earlier this time!!

Loving Palermo, it is so alive and interesting with a mix of chaos and great food, amazing buildings, twisting and turning streets, waterfront, fantastic coffee etc,etc.

Qantas tells me 22 days before I fly home…I don’t believe them but they insist. Ang and Kirst are now in the air, their adventure is over and I’m not far behind.

Our last day in the South East was spent going to Vendicari Nature Reserve. The togs were on but the swim didn’t eventuate. We walked through the National Park to the Torre Sveva (built by Peter of Aragon in C15) and the ruins of the Tuna fishery. We walked to some beaches but it was getting late and we didn’t walk far enough to find the really beautiful beaches so I didn’t go for my swim. The English people who recommended this area also told us about a vineyard that did lunches using all their own produce. So we left the Nature Reserve having explored the ruins and found the restaurant which was exactly as described with really delicious and very cheap food in a very rustic vineyard setting with the ocean in the background. It was lovely. After a leisurely lunch we made our way home to pack and start getting organised. Ariane used leftovers to concoct a dinner. We wanted a last swim in the Sea but the wind was howling and the Sea very rough still so it was not to be. I had a swim in the pool but even that wasn’t as pleasant as it has been after the weekend masses had used it constantly. But the sunset was magnificent over Etna and then the lightning started from afar and the sky was even further lit up over that veers evocative volcano. A fitting end indeed.

But then new beginnings as we set off with our masses of luggage and food to transport from one place to another. We drove up through the middle of Sicily despite the extensive roadworks that made driving difficult (thanks Ham) and the detours regular. We headed for Agrigento because we wanted to go to the Valley of the Temples…which we did and it was a real treat with its magnificent and ancient Greek Temples still standing magnificently against the blue sky. A couple of hours there and then off again towards Palermo again under appalling road conditions. We returned the hire car at Palermo Airport and transferred our multiple bags into a taxi. At this point we truly entered a nightmare with a crazy taxi driver, crazy traffic and the odd bit of total madness e.g. when a massive truck veered into our path and very nearly collected us well and truly. Heart stopping stuff…almost collected a car and then there were the mopeds and the bicycles…we considered it a miracle when we got to our apartment uninjured. Talk about going from one extreme to the other. Our peaceful, beautiful rural setting to the hubbub of Palermo…an amazing, frenetic and vital city.

We were exhausted but went out for a quick meal at a local tapas bar the owners of our apartment(Pietro) had recommended. It was fun but expensive and we were too tired really. Home and we fell into bed…to sleep with the blissful hum of the aircon!!!

This morning I got up and went out for my morning coffee at the bar recommended by Pietro. It was quite a walk for a quick morning coffee but it was a terrific coffee. Best I’ve had since Rome…and a cornetto. I bought back breakfast supplies for Ham and Az who were having a sleep in. When they are organised we will go out again and get to know this town…which I just know already I’m going to love, if the markets I walked through on my way back from coffee are any indication, with their fresh fish, fresh fruit and veggies and eclectic array of goods. The 63 steps up to the apartment are a bit of a disincentive to too much popping in and out!!!

More of this city later.

Ang and Kirst flew away and now our final days in this heavenly place are drawing to a close. Ham and Ariane drove A&K to the airport. I don’t do airport goodbyes well so I stayed back and indulged in some more time in the pool. The rest of the day was spent lounging about. It was Friday afternoon so the kiddies descended for their weekend at around 4pm which gets me out of the pool until they go in for dinner at which time I have my evening swim. This time by the beach and the pool have given me much more confidence to continue swimming when I get home. I lounge about in the togs now where once I wouldn’t have been seen dead, I dive in and out where once I would have gingerly used the steps. I’ve been diving off rocks into the deep ocean and walking in over rocks into crystal clear water (once I discovered the phenomena of rock shoes) so its all been good for the confidence and I’ll miss it when we head off to Palermo tomorrow.

Yesterday we took off and went back into Siracusa/ Ortigia for lunch. It was really a hot, hot day so we didn’t have much energy to do much more than that…a bit of shopping at the market and then this sensational lunch that one of the market shops does. Small tastes of all sorts of meat and fish sensations…washed down with a glass of vino bianco…what more can a single person wish for?? Before that we watched as a number of little set ups got the meagre bit of meat out of sea urchins. We ordered one and then waited the 10 minutes it took for them to extract a small cup of flesh from the sea urchin. It cost 10 Eu but there is no way you could begrudge the money given the effort it took to firstly pluck the urchins and then laboriously extract the flesh. Ariane and I then ate/drank the flesh just as it came (Ham reneged)..and it was delicious, sweet and yummy, yummy. Next time I see sea urchins in my path when swimming I think the go is to put them in a bucket and eat them!!

After our fun in the market we set off further south to the southern most tip of Sicily, Isola della Correnti, I had my bathers on so when we got there I had a swim in the most crystal clear of waters albeit shallow. It was a lovely swim and a great way to cool off even though the water of the Mediterranean is so warm its like taking a bath…so unfamiliar to an Aussie!! Then of course you have to deal with the sand and the wetness etc but for me it was worth it. The others went and sat in the shade and had a granita while I had my swimming adventure. We then went to another, very picturesque little port town, Marzamemi, full of lovely little ancient buildings and so pretty. We had a drink and then headed home.

A cool off in the pool, regardless of kiddies, was mandatory and beautiful. However our lovely deep ocean was suddenly very active with waves crashing against the rocks where once had been beautiful dead calm. So there was no way you could get in off the rocks and the pleasure of the ocean swim had to be forfeited. Ariane concocted another amazing meal which included a peach, mascopone and marsala / tiramisu-type desert….amazing!!!

Today we are heading off to a National Park with a place for lunch that has been recommended to us by some Brits we met. This national park also has apparently got beautiful beaches so the togs are on already. Waiting to leave!!

Today Ang and Kirst leave us after what has to have been the very best of times. A wonderful 5 days mixing up lazing about and a bit of exploring south eastern Sicily.

We did get our act together the day before yesterday and headed off for a day in Taormina. It is a wonderful, medieval town very pretty but packed full of tourists…of the large group variety. Still we enjoyed wandering around, we sat down for an easy lunch, walked up to the Teatro Greco but decided not to go in at 10 Eu a pop. Then decided we wanted to get back in the pool so we headed home. We had mussels and pork chops left over from feast day and we got stuck into them for dinner. It is so very lovely cooking on the BBQ and sitting out on the terrace with the sea breezes wafting in, looking across at Etna.

Yesterday we had a lunch booking at an expensive, michelin star restaurant in Ragusa. We set off around 10am so that we had time to explore the old town of Ragusa ‘Ibla’. We took a while to get there given the confusion experienced by the GPS, who has turned into Bruce. At one point it was trying to make us go off-road…a command we wisely resisted! Anyway we got to Ragusa, found Ibla and headed up to Piazza Duoma. We found the restaurant, also called Duomo, and had the most delicious, leisurely and pleasant lunch. It was a lunch time set menu and it was really, really wonderful. It came with 3 glasses of wine and they happily accommodated Kirst’s requirement of well cooked food. There was a primi of spaghetti with sardines and wonderful ‘other’ flavours, a main of fabulous beef and a desert of ricotto canolo, but of a very wonderful, superior variety. One of the treats of the meals was the little palate teasers between courses, such as an amazing truffle ice-cream. All in all a great meal. We then walked the town a bit more, up to the panoramic point and around, back to the car and back home via the supermarket to pick up the essentials of life, beer and wine.

We had a picky, leftovers meal of lovely meats and cheeses, anchovies etc last night after our Ragusa adventure. All good and off to bed.

This morning we’ve been lounging about, we have had a glorious swim in the ocean, absolutely unsurpassed heavenlyness. Now the boys have started to watch the football, have a final beer (wine!) and soon head off for the airport to go to Rome. I hate goodbyes at airports so I think I’ll stay home!!

Since I last wrote days have flown by lapping up this little piece of paradise on the Sicilian coast. Swimming, sitting in the sun, going to fabulous towns with amazing markets and feasting to celebrate Ang’s birthday. It is so beautiful here that it will be hard to leave it behind and head into Palermo, a busy, hot city.

Winde back a few days to the 13th. Az and I went into Catania to pick up Ang and Kirst…me driving which is a bit tense! They were an hour and a half late but otherwise all went well. We got back here, caught up, swam a bit and then went out to a local village, Agnone Bagni, to a little restaurant we’d been to before, Il Triangolo, and had one of those typical fish feasts. Nothing special but a fantastic local, laid back place.

The next day, 14th, was the day before Ang’s birthday and we were on a mission to stock up on fresh food for the feast day planned in celebration. So we went in to Syracusa and the area called Ortygia where there is a large market for everything! But first we wandered around Ortygia to get a feel for it. It is a beautiful Baroque town (or suburb of Syracusa…not sure which) with lovely narrow streets and beautiful buildings and piazza’s. We went to the Duomo (of course) and then headed on to the market for a major shop of mussels, clams, calamari, cheeses, meats, wine etc and then had to stagger back to the car with it all. The need to get it home, out of the heat and refrigerated was foremost on out minds so we sacrificed having a lunch of all the street delicacies available. But when we got home Az concocted a lovely pasta lunch which more than compensated!! After lunch Ham, Ang and Ariane were going down the many steps to hop into the ocean. I took a deep breath and plucked up the courage to go with them. The entrance and exit points were a bit scary but with the boys on hand I gave it a go…no problems really and it was so lovely…so deep and clear and just wonderful.

After this relaxation it was time to go again, this time for an ultra massive supermarket shop. Again we staggered back down to the apartment with masses of shopping. This time it was Pizza for tea which the boys went out and got from the same restaurant in Agnone Bagni.

Yesterday was birthday day which means a day of feasting and lolling about in the sun, flopping into the pool whenever we felt like it. We started the first course around 12….a feast of antipasto with delicious cheeses, prosciutto, melon, etc etc. Delicious. While we sat around after this I set to work de-bearding 5kgs of mussels in preparation for course no. 2. Then it was time to head down to the ocean for another swim. My courage was well and truly in place after yesterday and I was in the water in a flash, having a lovely long swim and no trouble getting out either. It was heaven. The climb back up is pretty steep and sweaty so when I got back up I just flopped into the pool to stage my exit!! Then sitting in the sun, drinking some lovely white wines bought in Bordeaux. Then we ate mussels to our fill, beautifully prepared and totally delicious. This was followed by calamari prepared by Ang and cooked on the BBQ by Hammy. More swims, more sitting in the sun then Clam Spaghetti. Then a steak with salad and then the Tiramisu Ariane had made during the day….washed down with a Chateau de Malle sauterne. Had I died and gone to heaven? No but I could have!!

A great day of celebration for a great birthday in what must be the dream place of all time!!

More adventures today…maybe off to Taormina if everyone can raise the energy to leave Paradise!!