I hate Sundays. No favourite coffee bar open, nothing much open before 11am. Nonetheless out I go and I do find a place for coffee.
Then I set out for the Modern Museum of Sculpture which means a hike down the steep streets that make up this town. Its actually not too bad. The steps are donkey/horse steps i.e. they are shallow and widely spaced so that the donkeys and/or horses were able to walk up and down the streets. I’m a donkey step fan, they suit me!! The only problem is the blazing sun beating down on my head (with my hat still sitting on the hat rack in Roma…and I’m too mean to buy another of course). Everything is steep in Matera and there are these little 3 wheeled kind of superior tuk tuks that many tourists get in to be ferried around. I watch them putter past me in envy. Although they can’t get up and down the steps…albeit donkey steps!!
The Museum was once again (for me) more about the setting than anything else. It is in a C16 palazzo with a series of caves underneath the palace. These caves were used for storage of wheat and wine etc (and to hide in in some circumstances) and are now used, most ingeniously, to house sculptures. It was really fantastic. Then you go up to the palace itself which is also full of these sculptures in the magnificent setting of the palace with frescoed walls etc. Quite amazing really. Then I went to another cave house that now gives a virtual ‘tour’ of the history of Matera. It is excellent but unfortunately all in Italian.
Some more wandering around, some more sweat and then time to come back to the apartment and hibernate for a few hours. Now I’ll go out and join the rest of Matera in the Piazza for a bit of people watching before dinner.
Last night I went back to the restaurant I liked so much a few nights ago Il Cantuccio. They treat me very well there and I was able to enjoy that sensational Ricotta with pear antipasto again. My lovely waiter recommends wine for me (just by the glass) and I enjoy tasting different ones. As I said before I am a total convert to the Bianco in this weather. However last night I had a follow-up glass of red. The Reds down here in the south are even more ‘forte’ than I like. They positively stick to your teeth they are so full bodied. I actually don’t enjoy it which will also be a surprise. I’m a convert to the Chianti. I think I’ll come home and want to be sipping fucking Pinot Noir.
After dinner the Piazza is just completely overflowing. I don’t think there is a single Materan who stays indoors in the evening. They are all in the Piazza chatting to their friends, kids running all over the place. The old and the young. It is the Italian way and something I just love about this country. Where is the Piazza in Caulfield????
I prepare now to exit and join the throng in the Piazza.