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Of Pompeii and Herculaneum

Yesterday could seriously be called a totally MASSIVE day. That my little legs kept pumping remains a miracle, I thought my feet would completely seize up but no…I’m a living credit to my surgeon.

So… we set off on the train to Herculaneum. walked down a massive hill to the site and spent the next 2-3 hours there. It was amazing. Some real treasures in terms of frescoes and mosaics and a really lovely and preserved site. I was a bit frustrated because I wanted to spend some more time there but we had to move on if we were to also take in Pompeii. For me it was tempting to stay and go back to Pompeii the next day but Tull was anxious that time was running out (and it is!!) so onward and upward. We got ourselves back on the train and moved on to Pompeii. At the gate of Pompeii we did what turned out to be a very sensible thing. We joined 2 American couples and took a guide. It actually saved the day because it was efficient and informative and we saw the main sights. Pompeii didn’t have the same preserved treasures as Herculaneum and is a very spread out site, with a number of the houses closed for renovation which was disappointing. Notwithstanding, it was amazing. Just the whole story of it is mind-blowing. There are better archeological sites (Ephesus) but none with the extraordinary story that belongs to Pompeii. The calcified bodies and the horror of what they experienced is absorbing.

So, back on the train and collapse. We then had to walk from the train to the hotel. Not far but when your feet are screaming at you, something of a trial. A couple of hours with the feet up and then the decision that is a perennial one about whether to get your feet going again to satisfy your stomach. Guess which one wins…my stomach will always get me going!! There was an obscure restaurant that Chris had given us the name of that we set out to find through the winding back streets of the edgy Napoli. Anyway, we found it and were rewarded with a lovely little family run Trattoria. The ‘old man’ waiter insisted that we start with the fresh Buffalo Mozzarella they had just got in. We did and truly ‘to die for’.

So…we fell into bed!! Today we set off for the Archeological Museum to see all the treasures that had been removed from Pompeii. Indeed, all was revealed. It was amazing and it totally explained the lack of treasures in Pompeii. It is all in the Museum!! My God it was extraordinary. Magnificent frescoes all on display in the museum. Then I got to the Mosaic rooms and it blew my mind….magnificent, extraordinary mosaics that defy the imagination. When you put it all together it all makes sense and you can get an idea of how Pompeii once was. All in all there is no doubt about the amazing skills in all areas of the arts, architecture and engineering of the ancient Romans.

From the Museum we decided to try out the public transport system and get ourselves down to the waterfront. This was achieved with variable efficiency and we had a nice walk along the waterfront and a late lunch. I’m desperate for seafood so went for the Calamari again but it was tough and disappointing. Tull likes a Pizza down here and is rarely disappointed.

The weather held out for us for most of the day but rain is predicted and we got a bit at the end of the day. We keep thinking that ‘tomorrow’ will bring the bad weather. It is predicted but we are lucky to have dodged it to date.

That’s it…more museums on the agenda for tomorrow!!

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Amalfi Coast for a Day trip

We set off today from our luxury hotel (discount price!!) after the gourmet breakfast. We caught the train to Sorrento and then found our way to the bus for Amalfi.

It was a gorgeous day, the sun shone and the water reflected the blue, it couldn’t have been more perfect. There was some debate about whether we should get off at Positano and have lunch there as per a suggestion from Chris, but we wanted to go through to Amalfi and the option of going back to Positano for lunch looked rather too hard by the time you walk all the way down to the beach it would have taken hours. So…we opted to alight in Amalfi, we did a walk around the town and found a great place for lunch… Ristorante “Il Chiostro” for future reference…I had Calamari which is something I was really hanging out for and I was very happy!!

Then we looked up the bus timetable and realised we had to bolt so I went off to get the tickets and ‘stop the bus’ and left Tull to pay etc. We got the bus, made a perfect connection with the train in Sorrento that took us back to Napoli. We arrived back at the hotel around 6, had an hour of downtime and then went off to a terrific restaurant (‘Lombardi’ for future reference) where we got into a lively discussion with the waiter and other diners…finished up with a Limoncello and came home.

That’s it for another day. So much more to do in this part of the world. I think maybe to Pompeii and Herculean tomorrow as the weather seems to be good again.

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Arriving in Naples and an Adventure

There’s a bit of a tale to tell tonight, one that I’m sure I’ll dine on for a while to come.

So…this morning Tull and I set off for Naples. Chris had spent the days before we left telling us about the dangers of Naples.

A nice train ride and then a 10 min or so walk to our hotel. But this walk was through a very seedy area, as is the case around train station in most cities.

But Naples really is a fairly grotty area. So off we set and what happened is really hard to describe. Tull in front of me by a couple os paces. Unbeknown to me she had put her handbag in her little day pack on her back.

We were both lugging cases and then I caught sight of someone moving away from Tull. I didn’t see him do anything but for some reason I thought something was wrong and I moved towards him and held him by the arm. I looked up and Tull’s day pack was wide open so I realised what had happened (almost as a kind of transient illusion) and I started to yell at him. Someone next to him said something and he turned around and handed me Tull’s handbag with all her worldly goods inside including passport, money, cards etc etc. According to Tull I turned into a complete banshee and started yelling at him in a mixture of languages and he slunk away glaring at me.

The long and the short of it was that we retrieved Tull’s worldly goods and all was well but it was the closest call I have ever had and I still don’t know why I reacted so decisively when I didn’t really fathom what had happened.
As soon as we got to the hotel Chris rang and blythely asked if we had been robbed yet. I think our story has made her day if not her month. She couldn’t believe it and ‘it all worked out OK’!!!!

Amazing story really. But we then went out and walked around Naples. I think the area around the train station is particularly seedy, the rest of Naples is, I think, lovely. It is decayed, a bit seedy but alive, dynamic and interesting. I’m looking forward to our time here. the people seem lovely and helpful (when they aren’t trying to rob you). There’s so much to do I think it will be a busy time. We’re staying in a very plush hotel in the middle of the sleaziest area. We have a smallish twin room and Tull has busied herself getting our beds as far apart as possible…a little reminiscent of Rose!!!!

More adventures tomorrow but rest assured everything of value is now in the hotel safe!!

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Days in Rome and a trip to Orvieto

Busy days with Tull in Roma along with a preoccupation on my part with finding a place to stay in Rome when I return from Venice. The latter has driven my slightly mad.

On Thursday Tull took up the challenge to conquer Rome alone and set out for the Colosseum and the Forum. I stayed home to try and sort out my packing for the onward voyage i.e. what was I going to leave behind with Chris and repacking with what I was going to take.

I also was faced with the reality that I had nowhere to return to in Rome given that the apartment Chris thought would be ready wasn’t going to be ready. It was this chore that sent me into a bit of a panic because everywhere I looked either didn’t have a clear 6 week period and/or was hugely expensive. I spent hours doing this and more hours doing all the train bookings for our forward journey online which was another of those frustrating tasks.

So Tull was home before I knew it. We went out for a late lunch to a lovely restaurant which was chockablock full but 2 women agreed to move up for us, only to find they were Australian so we had a nice lunch chatting to them. We then went for a bit of a stroll and came home for a bread and cheese and wine lunch.

Next morning was an alarm clock morning with a train trip to Orvieto on the agenda. Although I’ve been to Orvieto a million times before it never ceases to grab me…Signorelli remains my man!!! We wondered around there for ages, up to the Duomo, in and out little streets. We had booked lunch in a nice restaurant in a ‘grotto’ and enjoyed that. A bit more wander, wander then back on to the funicular to the train station and back to Roma. When we got back, Tull who is getting very adventurous set off down to Campo dei Fiori for some Pizza Bianca. I was still frantically trying to sort out the accommodation issue so she also went out for the supply of wine and bread for tea….excellent.

Today is Saturday so Chris has been taking us out and about. To a market for her food supplies and then around looking at the locations I am looking at for accommodation…Campo dei Fiori, Trastevere and Monti. We then had lunch in a great and very cheap restaurant, followed by a delicious gelato. Now its back to trying to solve the problem of the accommodation.

Tomorrow we are off to Naples, that will be an adventure for me because I haven’t been there for a zillion years.
Love for now

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Being active in Roma

Busy, busy days in Roma being a tourist extraordinaire!!

Yesterday we had coffee with Chris in the morning, got our instructions and set off with our maps!

Off we went on a little electric bus up to Villa Borghese, in these most gorgeous gardens. Our mission was to get to the Villa in which is housed an impressive art collection.

And it was amazing but the best thing for me was the Villa itself with every room covered in frescoes. It is a most divine mansion..huge. So a few hours later we emerged having viewed a gobsmacking art collection in a sublime setting.

We then walked from there to the Spanish Steps, then through the street of Rome to the Trevi Fountain which unfortunately was being renovated so no water and a walkway past the fountain itself. Chris and Tull thought this was a rare opportunity to see it up close and naked. I thought it looked depressing. From there we went to the Pantheon…my favourite amazing building!! On the way there my adventure was having having a very angry man (clearly with mental health issues) growl at me and then spit forcefully at me…very fortunately he just missed…YUK!!! We then went to the Chiesi di San Luigi dei Francesi which is the church that houses the 3 Carravaggios….does your head in really!!!!

Exhausted we came home for feet up and glass of wine time. Chris then rang to say she would pick us up after work and take us to her restaurant in Trastevere. That was lovely…very basic, very traditional Roman food…so good.

Today we set off early as we had booked tickets for the Vatican Museum/ Sistine Chapel. No rain, lovely morning and nice walk to the Vatican. Then there isn’t a lot you can say about the Vatican museum complex. Way, way before you get to the Sistine Chapel you have been blown away by room after room of frescoes, maps, sculptures etc etc. The Raphaelle rooms, the Borgia apartments etc etc…you lose track but it is all so amazing. Then there is the Sistine itself and no matter how often you see it you don’t lose your awe. It has been recently refreshed and it is truly unreal. Also a good time to be there because you can get an unjostled look in. We were both just breathtaking (is that a word). We still had St Peter’s to go to but our luck had run out a bit. We came out and it was pouring. We got to San Pietro and the queue was long so we had to stand in the rain for ages. I was totally unprepared for the rain so Tull (who had a rain jacket) stood out in it while I stood under the portico…i.e. stood until a couple of lovely derros shared their seats with me. Finally I bought a flimsy umbrella and stood in the rain too.

San Pietro always impresses and so it did again but I’ve been there quite a few times so Tull got more out of it than me. After that we were exhausted and wanted to just head home however we wanted some Pizza Bianca so set off to buy that only to find the shop closed…that added a kilo or so to our big day. Then home with goodies we had bought for lunch.

I’m off now to have a vino with Chris but Tull has a cold and has wisely decided to go to bed rather than venture out again. Tomorrow I’m setting her loose to go to the Colosseum by herself (I’ll save that for when Rose is here)…it will be nice to have a lazier morning!! Got to get myself sorted for packing once again.

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Back in Rome and meeting Tull

Apart from swearing off Easyjet for life (or at least until there is the next excruciatingly cheap flight), the flight from Prague to Rome was uneventful. This time I got the train into the city…it is so much easier than the bus. Lugged the big case up to Chris and it felt as if I was home again. A bottle of wine and some pasta and catching up, on events since Christmas and then into bed.

Next morning we walked around while Chris advised me on where to buy what in the area, where to eat etc so I sounded knowledgeable for when Tull arrived. We then moved me over to the apartment Tull and I would be staying in. Its in a great position and a very comfortable apartment. Then after another wander I went and got the mother fucker case and lugged it up the stairs to the new apartment. I need to sort things outs I can leave it behind. There is the dilemma that the small case is too small and the big case too big for the next month so I think I will have to worry another option from Chris!!

Then it was ‘find Tull’. I was bit worried about this as I had no idea where she was going to land…just somewhere near here!! So eventually I took myself down to the bar in the street and just sat and waited. Sure enough eventually a little bus flashed by and out popped Tull….phew!! It was nice to see her, of course. I was feeling awful for her, she must be exhausted poor thing. Had to keep her awake etc etc. I was admiring how fresh she was. Yes she said, she had had a great sleep on the plane. No worries at all. God how does one do it???? That was before I discovered she’d flown Business Class for God’s sake!! That was it, no more sympathy from this girl!!

We went for our mandatory little passagiatta around the area. Came back to the apartment for an Aperol Spritz ( or 2…or was that 3) and some lovely Italian nibbles. Then we went out for dinner. Had a really nice dinner ( it is good to be back in the land of the pasta), a very nice bottle of wine and then home to bed.

Today is another day with more walking, exploring and discovering.

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Absorbing Prague for the last day

My last full day in Prague and so much I hadn’t done and seen. So much to fit into 5 full days including day trips. So I set off to actually enter the churches and walk the streets..not to mention eating the food and drinking the wine (sadly not the beer..would have been more inspired if it was hot!).

For the first time today it was drizzly but not rain that interfered with getting out and about. It is such a lovely city, one of those cities that grabs you every time you turn a corner. The only breaks you get when you just set out to see a city is by eating and drinking so I once again failed ‘Restraint 101’. My first break necessitated hot chocolate ( so thick you need a spoon) and creamy cake. Felt sick for an hour or so after that break!!! I went New Town, Old town, church, chapel, river, winding streets. Then break time…much more restrained with bowl of soup, wine, bread (and butter!!) and cappuccino. What can I say!! I’m so happy to be here in January. I really think it’s the best. They tell me that in August they have to put a rope up in the middle of Charles Bridge for one way traffic and you have to queue to cross the bridge. I’d rather be cold any old day. And it’s not even that cold, could be much worse!!

Back to hotel and haven’t worked out what to do for food yet. By all accounts I should not eat but…well!!! Not sure yet. So I leave for the airport at midday tomorrow for a 3pm flight back to Rome.

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Cesky Krumlov

Lovely day today. Had to set the alarm and be down at breakfast first thing. Then over the beautiful bridge to join my tour to Cesky Krumlov. This time we were 4…couldn’t be more perfect for me. The guide said that in August their tours are 50 people. So me with a middle aged Australian woman (the Aussies and the Chinese stand out at the moment) and her English gentleman ‘companion’ and a young girl from South Africa.

A long (about 2.5hrs) to the truly most beautiful town of C.K. It’s hard to know what more to say, it is all those things you wax lyrically about. It straddles a river with a castle perched above it, looking down with the fairytale turrets, towers. The streets are almost a cliche of narrow, cobblestones and as if it wasn’t perfect enough, the town also sports a brewery…what more to say. The tour included lunch which was at the brewery and very enjoyable. We walked up to the castle, around and about and set off back to Prague at 4pm.

So back in Prague at 6.30. Back over Charles Bridge…always such a pleasure of a walk, all the time thinking what the hell am I going to do for tea clearly, given it was late and Friday night, I wasn’t going to get a place downstairs. Then it occurred to me…something I NEVER think of…would they bring me a meal to my room?? Well no problem thank you very much…why have I not thought of this before??? Up came my bottle of wine and my carp cooked in lemon and thyme…with loads of potatoes of course!!

I feel very clever!!

So that’s my day. Only one full day left in Prague. It has flown!

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Kutna Hora

Today I went on a tour to Kutna Hora. I went on a mini bus with 4 other people. A young couple from Adelaide and a younger couple from Sheffield. Then there was me Grandmama!! Perfect size ‘group’ though.

I was picked up at 12 so had a few hours before then to squeeze in a bit more sight seeing. I went off to St Nicholas’ Church…spent time enjoying this amazing Baroque bling. Then I walked down along the river under the bridge around my hotel. I went to the Franz Kafka Museum…didn’t have time to go in but enjoyed the fountain of the 2 men peeing on their patch that is the Czech Rep. Then off to Kutna Hora. First stop was the Bone Church. I knew what I was in for here so the wow factor wasn’t there but it was very interesting. I mean what an amazing mind to pull that together. Of course I took about 500 million photos.Probably even more enjoyable was St Barbara’s Cathedral..I loved the real feel of the silver miners that you see everywhere in this town. I also loved walked around the town which was just lovely.

So, it was most enjoyable. Returned at 6pm and walked back to my hotel. I then went out to dinner. I decided I wasn’t going to make them try and find a place for me here so I went off to another restaurant…swankier but not nearly as enjoyable although foo was good. I had knuckle of pork, followed by apple strudel ( what else??)

Then back. A nice Skype catch up with Ham and then down to business…photos, emails etc.

Tomorrow it’s early start to Cesky Krumlov…more tomorrow night!!

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More about Prague

A very short update tonight. Today I walked up to the castle and literally spent the entire day there. I had a full ticket and lots of venues to visit within the castle. It was fantastic!! I then walked back down the hill having a most delicious hot chocolate on the way down.I ate again at the restaurant below my hotel..it is definitely the hottest spot in town. Always jam packed but somehow they find me a place by persuading people to let me share their tables. Tonight I had beef tartare…wow!! It was delicious but it was on fried bread and took me ages to get through it all. But I did with concentrated determination!!

Now ready for an early night. I haven’t been sleeping well since I got here…missing my blow up mattress I think!

Tomorrow I think I’ve decided I’ll go to Kutna Hora…but there is so much to do and so little time to do it all. Oh well!!