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Izmir

Tonight’s missive is from the bar of the hotel overlooking the water of Izmir bay.

Very pleasant but I feel a bit out of place in my thongs and grubby dress…it’s a posh hotel. As I said I’ve been pretty good budget wise and living within my means but the last 3 places I booked something got into me and caution has been thrown to the wind a bit…then you end up feeling like an inferior scruff. Not that anyone suggests that of course.

Well, where did I end up last night. Was just about to go out to dinner. Next thing I know one of the managers of the hotel insists that I go hone to her house for dinner. Honestly they are so sweet. She lived in a small, totally ancient house and under the house are thousands of years of human life. It was amazing. Her husband had cooked up a storm and had even gone out and bought a bottle of red wine!! So that was a treat.

It really is so true that there are treats in unexpected places when you travel alone because things like that don’t happen if you are more than one.

So left my lovely little hotel this morning. Walked down to the train station and for the first time tried out the train system. That was a slight shock. No reserved seats here and a bun fight as everyone pushed ahead to grab a seat. Not me!! Oh shit I was standing and this was an hour and a half ride. But this is Turkey and it wasn’t too long before a lovely man gave me his seat. That was lovely!!

Arrived in Izmir. Not too far to my hotel thought I and off I trotted. My little case is a treasure and keeps rolling along over cobbles, broken roads etc. but my bloody bag over my shoulder is quite another story. Everything but the kitchen fucking sink is in it. Now I’m just loving Goldfinch to pieces but god will I be glad to finish it. It weighs a goddam ton and combined with the LPG, camera, wallet of preciousness, purse, camera etc. all miraculously stuffed in my bag it nearly kills me. A lovely Australian tourist I ran into said when you think of the cost of some things, we made very bad decisions for very little money…brought to mind Egypt, heh Ham!! Anyway I got the the hotel and the concierge guy found it very hard to believe I had a booking. He did laugh when I said I knew I didn’t look as if I did!

Well wouldn’t you know it, my first mission was to get a bus ticket to Istanbul for Monday. So I enquired where the booking offices were….back up near the Train Station. So I took a deep breath and back I went. Much easier with Goldfinch happily resting in the hotel!!

Then I spent a lovely afternoon strolling around the Bazaar. Eating!!

Now my ‘little problems’ have settled, I’ve got a terrible desire to eat!! So first a pide type yummy thing with everyone stopping to chat to me in whatever language they could muster. Then a most delicious fresh, homemade ice cream. Whenever I eat ice cream I have Chris in my ear. She would have been ashamed of the gelati I was eating in Anatalya. All brightly coloured and fluffed up….not the thing at all!!

Different kettle of fish today…what Chris would be pleased about is what I learnt in the process of getting my diploma!

The thing about Izmir is that it seems to be such a mix. People who would be absolutely at home in Brunswick or Fitzroy Streets combined with the fully traditional. It has a reputation for being ver liberal and very ‘cool’.

So after the bazaar and my pide + ice cream I made my way down to the pier and a just too! too cool bar. I had a couple of glasses of wine at Fitzroy Street prices and a tapas dish (they even asked if I would like my red chilled or room temperature..wow)..more money than I’ve spent in the last week in that pleasant little sojourn. You know how I said there were advantages of travelling alone…well there are also times when I would desperately love to have you (or a friend) with me and times like that are those times!!

Back to my swish hotel and being vaguely out of place. Came down to the bar to have a glass of wine ( straight out of the fridge and very oxidised) to write my daily missive that keeps me feeling in touch with you all.

This is a boomer and will bore the pants off everyone.

And I forgot to say that one of the disadvantages of wearing thongs about is getting cigarette butts caught between your toes, you can imagine what that does to me as I desperately try to remove them!!

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Ephesus

So I’ve finally seen Ephesus…it’s really been the big one in terms of ‘roooons’. So set off this morning and basically took my time, mainly the mission was to dodge around the tour groups, waiting for them to pass and then darting in before the next lot took over. How glad I am not to be in a tour group though…I feel good just to wait patiently, let them go by. So beside the number of tour groups, I just loved it. Hammy said it was the one place where you could really imagine the life all around you and it’s so true. Just wonderful really. I got a taxi there up to the top gate, walked down to the bottom gate then got a local bus, dolmas, back to town. Wondered around got a delicious Pide for late lunch then back to my hotel, into the bathers and a swim or two to cool off. Now glass of wine in hand I’m writing this email before heading into town for dinner. Last night the guy from here took me to a restaurant which was totally delicious so no point in mucking around, I’ll go back there tonight.

The guys here are telling me I shouldn’t be going off to Izmir tomorrow, they say it’s not a nice city….still I’m locked in now and shall see for myself I guess.they are also advising me to get the train not the bus because the train station is central and the bus station is way out…so why not?? Haven’t experienced the train yet so might as well give it a go.

Time in Turkey is now down to one week…I’ve left myself a bit short in Bulgaria and Romania but actually think Turkey deserves far more time, with a car I reckon….so much to see in this magnificent country.

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Antalya Day 2

Today I set off after brekky to the Antalya museum. This entailed negotiating a tram! All such things are an achievement in my book. On the way I found the office for the bus bus to Pammukale and bought a ticket.

The museum was gorgeous and I got on the tram and came back. Explored a bit of Antaya, found a chaotic and really wonderful Restaurant for lunch….had a beautiful pide with that yoghurt drink they keep insisting I have. That was great. A bit more wondering and then thought I ‘fuck it’….back to the hotel and into the pool for a swim….that takes more of my courage than most other things. Have relaxed from 3-6pm and will trot off again now for food!!

This place is full of tourists….there must be a happy medium somewhere on this earth!!

Aussies here loudly crowing about North beating Cats…and lamenting about Abbot declaring us on high alert….god he’s a dickhead (Abbot I mean)…the Aussies were quite nice when I told them they’d given me more information about what’s going on than I’d had in weeks.

Off now to find a place to eat and purchase a bottle of vino!!!

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And now Selcuk

Another one of those hot and wearying bus days although only a short bus trip, after such a big day yesterday and more exploring when I got to Selcuk this afternoon I’m tired to say the least. But I’ve landed on the tired old feet with this hotel. I think it’s my favourite to date. In amongst ancient houses (the guy was describing sifting through artefacts when they were building….older than Ephesus), step out of my door and there is the pool. And best of all…my mark of a great hotel, they’ve sold me a very nice bottle of red, best yet. By far. Set me up with my bottle in a gorgeous sitting area, told me to ask for another whenever I wanted, bottle that is!! Contrast this the place in Pamukkale where they sold wine for 3x what you could buy it for two doors down in the little supermarket, then had a big sign saying you weren’t allowed to bring food or wine onto the premises. Well obviously a deviant such as me got around that one but there was not sitting around the pool with your glass of wine!!

So back to the travels. Usually when I go on my bus trips from town to town I’m absolutely the only tourist. Today in Pamukkale the bus filled up totally with tourists. It stopped in Denizli and picked up three Turkish people. This is tourist Central this part of the world. Hotel names like Boomerang, Wallaby, Austn and New Zealand Hotel etc. I think this speaks mainly to the town’s proximity to Gallipoli. You will be relieved to know my hotel is the Ayasoluk.

I’m Still obsessed with the packs of Russians but have heard quite a few Aussie accents around me as well.

As I only have 2 nights here I set off straight away exploring the little town and the ‘roooons’ all around me such as the church of St John….have now seen where he’s buried…this entailed another ‘up to the castle’ walk in the blazing sun…I’m becoming a bit of an expert at this!!! Followed by another ancient mosque…I actually love the old mosques. Then into town but not for too long, needed to rest my weary bones. Now the misens are calling, which always gives me a sense of comfort.

Later I’ll wander off into town to eat something and tomorrow it’s Ephesus….I’m looking forward to that but also looking forward to the next stop which is 3 nights in Izmir…this will dramatically dilute the tourists and get me back to normal. I like a bit but not to be overwhelmed!!

More tomorrow.

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Pamukkale Part 2

Back at base camp after another energetic / exhausting/ exhilarating day.  After breakfast the owner of the hotel said he’ d run me up to the top gate which was terrific and I must admit I was hoping he’d do. Then beginneth the 5 or so km walk back to Pamukkale. Most of the day was spent in the ancient Roman/ Greek/ Byzantine city of Hieropolous. Most of that was great as I streets fairly early and there was hardly anyone about. I was loving pottering around, exploring by myself. But as I got closer to the action there were hoards of people. I climbed up to the Roman Theatre which was wonderful, not such a bad climb but by this time it was the midday sun so a bit challenging. The most challenging thing though is coping with insane Russian tourists…they make the Germans pale into insignificance!! I decided I was going to make a field study of them rather than get insanely mad! So I observed…and what did I mainly (and reluctantly) find myself observing….. breasts!!!

What is it with these Russian women? They are in a tour group in bikinis… all over 45 (to be generous) with massive breasts bulging out of skimpy bikini tops…I couldn’t take my eyes off them so had hours of entertainment!!! Then I thought I’d take photos of breasts….. this would be my theme. But it didn’t take me too long to realise there was the possibility of arrest in this idea so I desisted (do have a couple of photos though:) )

All that was good. I’d brought my bathers along for the ride in case I felt enticed by the Ancient Pool but got there, had a look, checkers full of Russian breasts and thought….nah!! Also nice you’ve been in an Icelandic Mineral Spa there’s nowhere to go from there!
Then it was the Travertines… a disappointment for me, mainly because they were crowded to a ridiculous degree, they were treacherous in that I spent the entire time scared I was going to slip and I think I’d seen so many photos there was nothing to excite the senses.

Climbed all the way down… which was exhausting on little tired legs, always tense to ensure no slips. Once again I wished for the steadying hand of my troupes… but just had myself to rely on!!
Staggered back to the hotel 5 hrs later with only enough energy to get the bathers on and fall into the pool.

I’m now showered, have had a glass of wine and am back to being in fine fettle.

Another day for the annuals of time. Off to Selcuk tomorrow for 2 nights. Ephesus is the main sight to conquer.

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Pamukkale

Sitting on my hotel balcony overlooking the Travertines in the early am. Bus day yesterday and am now in Pamukkale. It’s 7am and 6 full busloads have just driven past. It’s scary!!! The hotel here is OK but he is trying to fleece me for every cent and I hate that. There is a pool and it is so hot that that is a bonus at the end of a long hot day. I have to get a taxi to the top gate if I want to walk down which I think I’ll do.

Yesterday I was quite clever in that I got myself around all on the transport system. Found the local bus from Denizli to here without too much trauma.

Will write again after my day here. The people walking on the Travertines already look like ants!!!

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Last Day in Antalya

It is so hot here that pacing myself has become an art form. A nice leisurely day today but very enjoyable. Started by just wandering around looking t the gorgeous Ottoman houses, enjoying the odd Apple Chay and mooching. Then I went to the Old Town Museum which was gorgeous, in one of the lovely old houses, cool, untouristy and perfectly enjoyable. Then I went to a quite expensive restaurant for a prolonged lunch mainly because they has appealing things on the menu for a nervous tummy. I had an entree seafood risotto which seemed like just the ticket although time will tell!! A nice glass of white ( I use nice loosely). It was good and no ill effects yet. Some more wondering and off to a lovely gardens/ park overlooking the ocean and then back to hotel. No swim today, too many people by the pool!!

Still, I’m contented at the end of the day. To Pamukkale tomorrow to see what that brings. I do believe at this stage that it will be straight to Selcuk from there bypassing Bodrum.

If all keeps going well intestinely I’ll go and find a place for tea tonight.

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Antalya Day 2, Part 2

Now for tonight’s missive.

So… Set off and found a place to have my jeans and a few tops laundered….they charged me an arm and a leg and didn’t remove the stains so not too happy with that….been doing a much better job myself. Then walked down to the harbour and the city beach. It’s quite pretty but not too tempting. Antalya is just FULL of Germans. They are middle to over middle aged and look like lizards. They would turn you off wanting a sun tan….they look positively leathery. The other brand is flocks of Chinese piling onto ugly boats for a tour. So left there and charged uphill through the markets. That was nice. Explored a few mosques and ‘roooooons’ and meandered back to hotel for a swim. Couldn’t go out to find a meal so finished up early.

I know I’ve been saying I wanted a day or so downtime but think I’ve made an error with Antalya in that 3 nights would have been enough. I explored the town and am champing at the bit…particularly as time is at a bit of a premium. Another day tomorrow just seems like a bit of a waste.

Anyway, not to lament….just not quite as invigorating as previously and I do feel a bit more ‘alone’ here….a million tourists…..and me :).

I think it will be a bit similar in Pamukkale and Selcuk but then Izmir and back to Istanbul.

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Antalya

Basically another day of 6 hours on the bus. Goodbye Henri….kiss, kiss…phew!!

Already 2 emails from him that won’t open on my iPad as they obviously contain photos.

Antalya is certainly back in tourist land isn’t it. There are positives and negatives to that of course. Have just done a little passagiata, got some fish and a Turkish gelati for tea, bought myself a bottle of Turkish red and trotted back to hotel. Tomorrow will be explore day.

I’m one thinking I’ll go straight to Pammukele from here, skipping Fetihye and Bodrum. Then onto to Selcuk.

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Adana and Anamur

Turns out each time I get to a place like Adana yesterday and today, Anamur I don’t know what to expect and feel negative about the place, and then am wrong. I have just spent a wonderful day exploring ancient cities, castles, eating amazing meals on the way, with Yacop (who owns the pension and spent the entire day showing us around) and Henri a ‘my age’ sort of guy from Paris who assesses UNESCO world heritage sites….very interesting, but before you go uh hum ….he is the closest thing to Hercule Poirot I’ve ever met including the fastidiousness and the moustache !! Notwithstanding  I have scaled cliffs, walked up hill and down dale and climbed boulders all around ruins. Now I’m wrecked and ready for sleep!!!!!! I have to say just in case you were wondering, by the end of the day Henri/ Hercule was all over me ….adjusting my Tshirt when it fell off my shoulder, adjusting my bag on my shoulder etc. when he wanted to meet up after we’d ‘showered’ I hastily said I was exhausted and was off to bed!!! However, he does live in Paris and has a bed for guests and really wants me to visit!!!!!

Also I maligned this very humble pension….firstly it does have wifi and secondly the owner has been totally amazing devoting a whole day to Henri and me.

Lastly, I spend my life taking care not to fall while really scaling massive cliffs etc and low and behold my little Parisienne smart arse fell arse over tit. Did that ever put him into a state that required ice bags and laundry having thoroughly dirtied his immaculate shorts!!

Hah well I am buggered, off to Antalya tomorrow for 4 nights that hopefully will allow me a day of downtime.

This is an amazing, challenging and satisfying adventure in the sense that I kind of think I’m doing ‘good’….probably famous last words. The only thing missing of course are my trusty companions that I’ve shared other adventures with.